COSMECEUTICAL CRITIQUE: Master formulators: The ‘Julia Childs’ of skin care

In the multibillion-dollar skin care industry, there are many well-recognized brands. However, we sometimes forget that behind these products were formulators who took their scientific ideas and turned them into recipes for cosmetically elegant active formulations.

I have spent the last 15 years researching the activity of cosmeceutical ingredients for my new textbook, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (McGraw Hill, 2014). Each ingredient has its own quirks, and they all do not “play well in the sandbox” together. Formulation knowledge (cosmetic chemistry) is required to take these ingredients and combine them in a way that enhances rather than hinders their activity, just as a chef combines ingredients and cooking techniques to enhance the flavor and presentation of food. When I discuss cosmeceutical products, I always stress the importance of the ingredients and understanding ingredient interactions, because they determine the end product – how effective it is and how elegant it feels. If a product works well but smells bad and feels unpleasant, consumers will not use it.

Whom are we trusting when it comes to this science? The formulators, also known as cosmetic chemists, who put their blood, sweat, and tears into years of work to develop products that yield efficacious results. They are often behind the scenes, and their contributions are not always recognized. I refer to them as the “Julia Childs” of skin care, because they remind me of how Julia Child combined her knowledge of ingredients and aesthetic sensibilities to change the world of cooking.

I’d like to shine the spotlight on several top skin care formulators that I have met. Their relentless desire to perfect skin care recipes has helped the industry boom and has improved skin health.

Richard Parker

Location: Melbourne

Richard Parker is the CEO/founder of the Australia-based company Rationale. When he was unable to find skin care products that worked with his skin type, he decided to study cosmetic chemistry and create his own skin care line. Today, Rationale can be found in dermatologists’ and plastic surgeons’ offices across Australia. Parker’s passion for cosmetic science is evident. Australia has a high incidence of melanoma, and sunscreens undergo greater scrutiny there compared with other countries. One of the things that Parker is most proud of is his creation of SPF products that are “as elegant as they are effective.” This is a difficult combination to achieve, because sunscreens tend to be too white or too greasy; formulating them properly requires a “master chef.”

In addition to formulating effective and elegant sun protection, he has developed Essential Six: a combination of six products that work in synergy, delivering the perfect combination of active ingredients at the correct concentration to be recognized and utilized by skin cells.

In order to succeed in the formulations industry, you must possess a desire to make it better; and Parker does just that. It’s his wish for the industry to have an increased awareness of a holistic approach to skin care that includes immune protection, antioxidants, sunscreens, gentle cleansing, alpha-hydroxy acids, and vitamin A.

If being at the forefront of this evolution isn’t enough, Parker is devoted to continue his mission for years to come, all the while helping younger chemists/formulators embrace the culture.

“For the past 25 years, I have had the privilege to work with Australia’s leading dermatologists to create the best possible products and procedures,” he said. “At this stage of my career, it is so gratifying to see the younger generation of skin specialists embrace medical skin care as a part of best clinical practice.”

Chuck Friedman

Location: Wendell, N.C.

Chuck Friedman is a man who prides himself on the use of natural products – not a small achievement for a man who has been in the industry for almost half a century. His work as a formulation chemist has spanned globally recognized companies such as Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, Almay, Estée Lauder, Burt’s Bees, and Polysciences.

Friedman prides himself on his natural products. His product list includes hypoallergenic and natural versions of cleansers; toners; exfoliators; moisturizers and masks; shampoos; conditioners; dandruff treatments and hair sprays; antiperspirants and deodorants; lip balms; salves and cuticle treatments; shaving creams and aftershaves; over-the-counter analgesics; acne treatments and sunscreens; toothpastes; and liquid soap.

Friedman has said that he is most proud of his Burt’s Bees Orange Essence Cleansing Cream, which won Health Magazine’s Healthiest Cleanser of the Year in 1999. The product is an anhydrous, 100% natural, self-preserving translucent gel-emulsion of vegetable oil and vegetable glycerin stabilized by a proprietary protein.

During his tenure in the industry, Friedman has faced many hurdles in creating his natural formulations – achieving esthetics, efficacy, and physical stability at temperature extremes while maintaining microbiological integrity and using more green, renewable ingredients while formulating with fewer petrochemicals. His breakthrough natural formulations developed at Burt’s Bees are emulated and marketed widely today.

Sergio Nacht

Location: Las Vegas

Sergio Nacht is a biochemist, researcher, and product developer with 48 years of formulation experience. Currently, he is chief scientific officer/cofounder at resolutionMD and Riley-Nacht.

“A better understanding of the structure and function of the skin has resulted in the development of better functional products that deliver clinically demonstrable benefits and not only ‘hope in a jar,’ ” he has said.

Nacht has coauthored more than 50 scientific papers, and he holds 17 international and U.S. patents.

Possibly his most significant accomplishment followed the discovery of what he believes is one of the biggest challenges in skin care formulation. Microsponge Technology is the first – and still the only – U.S. Food and Drug Administration–approved controlled-release technology for topical products that maximizes efficacy while minimizing side effects and optimizing cosmetic attributes by allowing slow release of ingredients. The microsponge is used to provide various therapeutic solutions for antiaging, acne treatment, skin firming, skin lightening, and mattifying – most notably as the lead technology behind Retin-A Micro.

Byeong-Deog Park

Location: Seoul, South Korea

Byeong-Deog Park holds a Ph.D. in industrial chemicals from Seoul National University, among his other achievements. Dr. Park’s company, Neopharm, is located in Seoul. He is a true scientist who has been awarded many patents in the areas of ceramides for the treatment of dry skin and atopic dermatitis; PPAR (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor)-alpha in the treatment of inflammatory disorders; and an antimicrobial peptide, Defensamide, which has been shown to prevent colonization of Staphylococcus aureus. His research led to the development of a proprietary MLE (multilamellar emulsion) technology in which lipids and ceramides form the identical Maltese cross structure that is seen in the natural lipid barrier of the skin, allowing effective skin barrier repair.

With MLE technology, the ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol required for an intact skin barrier are replaced in the proper ratio and three-dimensional structure needed to emulate the skin’s natural structure. This reforms the skin’s barrier and prevents water evaporation from the skin’s surface. Dr. Park has said that he is most proud of his patented MLE technology, found in the brands Atopalm and Zerafite. He also combined MLE technology and Defensamide in an atopic dermatitis treatment known as Zeroid.

Dr. Park never ceases to impress me with his scientific knowledge and dedication to the scientific method. In a field where many products are considered “hope in a jar,” his cosmetically elegant products stand out as “verified science in a jar.”

Gordon Dow

Location: Petaluma, Calif.

Gordon Dow started Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences in his garage. Today, Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences (recently acquired by Valeant Pharmaceuticals International) is a leading company in the formulation and manufacturing of dermatological products.

Over the past 25 years, Dow has commanded the company’s evolution by carefully balancing science and business. He previously served as vice president of research and development for Ingram Pharmaceuticals, where he developed seven commercially successful products, including four dermatologicals. He also served as the executive secretary of the research advisory panel for the State of California. A few of Dow’s best-known products include MetroGel, Ziana, and Acanya.

The passion for science and skin care of these individuals has shaped the dermatologic landscape for the best. They would probably agree with Julia Child, who once said, “Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.”

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in Miami Beach. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Galderma, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Stiefel, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

In the multibillion-dollar skin care industry, there are many well-recognized brands. However, we sometimes forget that behind these products were formulators who took their scientific ideas and turned them into recipes for cosmetically elegant active formulations.

I have spent the last 15 years researching the activity of cosmeceutical ingredients for my new textbook, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (McGraw Hill, 2014). Each ingredient has its own quirks, and they all do not “play well in the sandbox” together. Formulation knowledge (cosmetic chemistry) is required to take these ingredients and combine them in a way that enhances rather than hinders their activity, just as a chef combines ingredients and cooking techniques to enhance the flavor and presentation of food. When I discuss cosmeceutical products, I always stress the importance of the ingredients and understanding ingredient interactions, because they determine the end product – how effective it is and how elegant it feels. If a product works well but smells bad and feels unpleasant, consumers will not use it.

Whom are we trusting when it comes to this science? The formulators, also known as cosmetic chemists, who put their blood, sweat, and tears into years of work to develop products that yield efficacious results. They are often behind the scenes, and their contributions are not always recognized. I refer to them as the “Julia Childs” of skin care, because they remind me of how Julia Child combined her knowledge of ingredients and aesthetic sensibilities to change the world of cooking.

I’d like to shine the spotlight on several top skin care formulators that I have met. Their relentless desire to perfect skin care recipes has helped the industry boom and has improved skin health.

Richard Parker

Location: Melbourne

Richard Parker is the CEO/founder of the Australia-based company Rationale. When he was unable to find skin care products that worked with his skin type, he decided to study cosmetic chemistry and create his own skin care line. Today, Rationale can be found in dermatologists’ and plastic surgeons’ offices across Australia. Parker’s passion for cosmetic science is evident. Australia has a high incidence of melanoma, and sunscreens undergo greater scrutiny there compared with other countries. One of the things that Parker is most proud of is his creation of SPF products that are “as elegant as they are effective.” This is a difficult combination to achieve, because sunscreens tend to be too white or too greasy; formulating them properly requires a “master chef.”

In addition to formulating effective and elegant sun protection, he has developed Essential Six: a combination of six products that work in synergy, delivering the perfect combination of active ingredients at the correct concentration to be recognized and utilized by skin cells.

In order to succeed in the formulations industry, you must possess a desire to make it better; and Parker does just that. It’s his wish for the industry to have an increased awareness of a holistic approach to skin care that includes immune protection, antioxidants, sunscreens, gentle cleansing, alpha-hydroxy acids, and vitamin A.

If being at the forefront of this evolution isn’t enough, Parker is devoted to continue his mission for years to come, all the while helping younger chemists/formulators embrace the culture.

“For the past 25 years, I have had the privilege to work with Australia’s leading dermatologists to create the best possible products and procedures,” he said. “At this stage of my career, it is so gratifying to see the younger generation of skin specialists embrace medical skin care as a part of best clinical practice.”

Chuck Friedman

Location: Wendell, N.C.

Chuck Friedman is a man who prides himself on the use of natural products – not a small achievement for a man who has been in the industry for almost half a century. His work as a formulation chemist has spanned globally recognized companies such as Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, Almay, Estée Lauder, Burt’s Bees, and Polysciences.

Friedman prides himself on his natural products. His product list includes hypoallergenic and natural versions of cleansers; toners; exfoliators; moisturizers and masks; shampoos; conditioners; dandruff treatments and hair sprays; antiperspirants and deodorants; lip balms; salves and cuticle treatments; shaving creams and aftershaves; over-the-counter analgesics; acne treatments and sunscreens; toothpastes; and liquid soap.

Friedman has said that he is most proud of his Burt’s Bees Orange Essence Cleansing Cream, which won Health Magazine’s Healthiest Cleanser of the Year in 1999. The product is an anhydrous, 100% natural, self-preserving translucent gel-emulsion of vegetable oil and vegetable glycerin stabilized by a proprietary protein.

During his tenure in the industry, Friedman has faced many hurdles in creating his natural formulations – achieving esthetics, efficacy, and physical stability at temperature extremes while maintaining microbiological integrity and using more green, renewable ingredients while formulating with fewer petrochemicals. His breakthrough natural formulations developed at Burt’s Bees are emulated and marketed widely today.

Sergio Nacht

Location: Las Vegas

Sergio Nacht is a biochemist, researcher, and product developer with 48 years of formulation experience. Currently, he is chief scientific officer/cofounder at resolutionMD and Riley-Nacht.

“A better understanding of the structure and function of the skin has resulted in the development of better functional products that deliver clinically demonstrable benefits and not only ‘hope in a jar,’ ” he has said.

Nacht has coauthored more than 50 scientific papers, and he holds 17 international and U.S. patents.

Possibly his most significant accomplishment followed the discovery of what he believes is one of the biggest challenges in skin care formulation. Microsponge Technology is the first – and still the only – U.S. Food and Drug Administration–approved controlled-release technology for topical products that maximizes efficacy while minimizing side effects and optimizing cosmetic attributes by allowing slow release of ingredients. The microsponge is used to provide various therapeutic solutions for antiaging, acne treatment, skin firming, skin lightening, and mattifying – most notably as the lead technology behind Retin-A Micro.

Byeong-Deog Park

Location: Seoul, South Korea

Byeong-Deog Park holds a Ph.D. in industrial chemicals from Seoul National University, among his other achievements. Dr. Park’s company, Neopharm, is located in Seoul. He is a true scientist who has been awarded many patents in the areas of ceramides for the treatment of dry skin and atopic dermatitis; PPAR (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor)-alpha in the treatment of inflammatory disorders; and an antimicrobial peptide, Defensamide, which has been shown to prevent colonization of Staphylococcus aureus. His research led to the development of a proprietary MLE (multilamellar emulsion) technology in which lipids and ceramides form the identical Maltese cross structure that is seen in the natural lipid barrier of the skin, allowing effective skin barrier repair.

With MLE technology, the ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol required for an intact skin barrier are replaced in the proper ratio and three-dimensional structure needed to emulate the skin’s natural structure. This reforms the skin’s barrier and prevents water evaporation from the skin’s surface. Dr. Park has said that he is most proud of his patented MLE technology, found in the brands Atopalm and Zerafite. He also combined MLE technology and Defensamide in an atopic dermatitis treatment known as Zeroid.

Dr. Park never ceases to impress me with his scientific knowledge and dedication to the scientific method. In a field where many products are considered “hope in a jar,” his cosmetically elegant products stand out as “verified science in a jar.”

Gordon Dow

Location: Petaluma, Calif.

Gordon Dow started Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences in his garage. Today, Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences (recently acquired by Valeant Pharmaceuticals International) is a leading company in the formulation and manufacturing of dermatological products.

Over the past 25 years, Dow has commanded the company’s evolution by carefully balancing science and business. He previously served as vice president of research and development for Ingram Pharmaceuticals, where he developed seven commercially successful products, including four dermatologicals. He also served as the executive secretary of the research advisory panel for the State of California. A few of Dow’s best-known products include MetroGel, Ziana, and Acanya.

The passion for science and skin care of these individuals has shaped the dermatologic landscape for the best. They would probably agree with Julia Child, who once said, “Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.”

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in Miami Beach. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Galderma, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Stiefel, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

In the multibillion-dollar skin care industry, there are many well-recognized brands. However, we sometimes forget that behind these products were formulators who took their scientific ideas and turned them into recipes for cosmetically elegant active formulations.

I have spent the last 15 years researching the activity of cosmeceutical ingredients for my new textbook, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (McGraw Hill, 2014). Each ingredient has its own quirks, and they all do not “play well in the sandbox” together. Formulation knowledge (cosmetic chemistry) is required to take these ingredients and combine them in a way that enhances rather than hinders their activity, just as a chef combines ingredients and cooking techniques to enhance the flavor and presentation of food. When I discuss cosmeceutical products, I always stress the importance of the ingredients and understanding ingredient interactions, because they determine the end product – how effective it is and how elegant it feels. If a product works well but smells bad and feels unpleasant, consumers will not use it.

Whom are we trusting when it comes to this science? The formulators, also known as cosmetic chemists, who put their blood, sweat, and tears into years of work to develop products that yield efficacious results. They are often behind the scenes, and their contributions are not always recognized. I refer to them as the “Julia Childs” of skin care, because they remind me of how Julia Child combined her knowledge of ingredients and aesthetic sensibilities to change the world of cooking.

I’d like to shine the spotlight on several top skin care formulators that I have met. Their relentless desire to perfect skin care recipes has helped the industry boom and has improved skin health.

Richard Parker

Location: Melbourne

Richard Parker is the CEO/founder of the Australia-based company Rationale. When he was unable to find skin care products that worked with his skin type, he decided to study cosmetic chemistry and create his own skin care line. Today, Rationale can be found in dermatologists’ and plastic surgeons’ offices across Australia. Parker’s passion for cosmetic science is evident. Australia has a high incidence of melanoma, and sunscreens undergo greater scrutiny there compared with other countries. One of the things that Parker is most proud of is his creation of SPF products that are “as elegant as they are effective.” This is a difficult combination to achieve, because sunscreens tend to be too white or too greasy; formulating them properly requires a “master chef.”

In addition to formulating effective and elegant sun protection, he has developed Essential Six: a combination of six products that work in synergy, delivering the perfect combination of active ingredients at the correct concentration to be recognized and utilized by skin cells.

In order to succeed in the formulations industry, you must possess a desire to make it better; and Parker does just that. It’s his wish for the industry to have an increased awareness of a holistic approach to skin care that includes immune protection, antioxidants, sunscreens, gentle cleansing, alpha-hydroxy acids, and vitamin A.

If being at the forefront of this evolution isn’t enough, Parker is devoted to continue his mission for years to come, all the while helping younger chemists/formulators embrace the culture.

“For the past 25 years, I have had the privilege to work with Australia’s leading dermatologists to create the best possible products and procedures,” he said. “At this stage of my career, it is so gratifying to see the younger generation of skin specialists embrace medical skin care as a part of best clinical practice.”

Chuck Friedman

Location: Wendell, N.C.

Chuck Friedman is a man who prides himself on the use of natural products – not a small achievement for a man who has been in the industry for almost half a century. His work as a formulation chemist has spanned globally recognized companies such as Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, Almay, Estée Lauder, Burt’s Bees, and Polysciences.

Friedman prides himself on his natural products. His product list includes hypoallergenic and natural versions of cleansers; toners; exfoliators; moisturizers and masks; shampoos; conditioners; dandruff treatments and hair sprays; antiperspirants and deodorants; lip balms; salves and cuticle treatments; shaving creams and aftershaves; over-the-counter analgesics; acne treatments and sunscreens; toothpastes; and liquid soap.

Friedman has said that he is most proud of his Burt’s Bees Orange Essence Cleansing Cream, which won Health Magazine’s Healthiest Cleanser of the Year in 1999. The product is an anhydrous, 100% natural, self-preserving translucent gel-emulsion of vegetable oil and vegetable glycerin stabilized by a proprietary protein.

During his tenure in the industry, Friedman has faced many hurdles in creating his natural formulations – achieving esthetics, efficacy, and physical stability at temperature extremes while maintaining microbiological integrity and using more green, renewable ingredients while formulating with fewer petrochemicals. His breakthrough natural formulations developed at Burt’s Bees are emulated and marketed widely today.

Sergio Nacht

Location: Las Vegas

Sergio Nacht is a biochemist, researcher, and product developer with 48 years of formulation experience. Currently, he is chief scientific officer/cofounder at resolutionMD and Riley-Nacht.

“A better understanding of the structure and function of the skin has resulted in the development of better functional products that deliver clinically demonstrable benefits and not only ‘hope in a jar,’ ” he has said.

Nacht has coauthored more than 50 scientific papers, and he holds 17 international and U.S. patents.

Possibly his most significant accomplishment followed the discovery of what he believes is one of the biggest challenges in skin care formulation. Microsponge Technology is the first – and still the only – U.S. Food and Drug Administration–approved controlled-release technology for topical products that maximizes efficacy while minimizing side effects and optimizing cosmetic attributes by allowing slow release of ingredients. The microsponge is used to provide various therapeutic solutions for antiaging, acne treatment, skin firming, skin lightening, and mattifying – most notably as the lead technology behind Retin-A Micro.

Byeong-Deog Park

Location: Seoul, South Korea

Byeong-Deog Park holds a Ph.D. in industrial chemicals from Seoul National University, among his other achievements. Dr. Park’s company, Neopharm, is located in Seoul. He is a true scientist who has been awarded many patents in the areas of ceramides for the treatment of dry skin and atopic dermatitis; PPAR (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor)-alpha in the treatment of inflammatory disorders; and an antimicrobial peptide, Defensamide, which has been shown to prevent colonization of Staphylococcus aureus. His research led to the development of a proprietary MLE (multilamellar emulsion) technology in which lipids and ceramides form the identical Maltese cross structure that is seen in the natural lipid barrier of the skin, allowing effective skin barrier repair.

With MLE technology, the ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol required for an intact skin barrier are replaced in the proper ratio and three-dimensional structure needed to emulate the skin’s natural structure. This reforms the skin’s barrier and prevents water evaporation from the skin’s surface. Dr. Park has said that he is most proud of his patented MLE technology, found in the brands Atopalm and Zerafite. He also combined MLE technology and Defensamide in an atopic dermatitis treatment known as Zeroid.

Dr. Park never ceases to impress me with his scientific knowledge and dedication to the scientific method. In a field where many products are considered “hope in a jar,” his cosmetically elegant products stand out as “verified science in a jar.”

Gordon Dow

Location: Petaluma, Calif.

Gordon Dow started Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences in his garage. Today, Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences (recently acquired by Valeant Pharmaceuticals International) is a leading company in the formulation and manufacturing of dermatological products.

Over the past 25 years, Dow has commanded the company’s evolution by carefully balancing science and business. He previously served as vice president of research and development for Ingram Pharmaceuticals, where he developed seven commercially successful products, including four dermatologicals. He also served as the executive secretary of the research advisory panel for the State of California. A few of Dow’s best-known products include MetroGel, Ziana, and Acanya.

The passion for science and skin care of these individuals has shaped the dermatologic landscape for the best. They would probably agree with Julia Child, who once said, “Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.”

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in Miami Beach. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Galderma, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Stiefel, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.