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There is more to Rosa damascena than its gorgeous flowers and lovely scent. Research on this cultivar is finding some intriguing properties that have potential for topical dermatologic products.
Rosa damascena, also known as the Damask Rose and Rose of Castile, is a rose hybrid the flowers of which have been used for rose oil in perfume and for rosewater.
It originates in the Middle East (the name is based on Damascus, Syria), but it is now only a cultivated plant and no longer found in the wild.
Bulgaria, Turkey, France, and India are the largest producers of rose oil. Rosewater has been used for centuries in religious rites and for physical, emotional, and spiritual purposes or healing. Thriving rosewater industries are found in Bulgaria and France.
In addition to its uses in the perfumery industry, R. damascena is also used for culinary purposes in several global cuisines. Geraniol, which exhibits potent antiseptic activity (seven times that of phenol), is the main constituent of several essential oils and is found in R. damascena (Hoffmann D., Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine. Rochester, Vt.: Healing Arts Press, 2003, p. 64).
Some of the earliest work to indicate the potential health and dermatologic benefits of R. damascena dates to the late 1970s.
Investigators isolated a strain of cultured cells of the plant that displayed strong resistance to UV radiation (254 nm) and generated a greater amount of polyphenols (primarily flavonoids) during the latter stages of culture growth. They found that this UV resistance was associated with increased polyphenolic production (Plant Physiol. 1979;64:936-41).
Flavonoids are the most prevalent and frequently studied polyphenols, which are the most abundant source of antioxidants in the human diet (Biomed. Pap. Med. Fac. Univ. Palacky Olomouc Czech Repub. 2003;147:137-45; J. Nutr. 2000;130 (8S Suppl):2073S-85S; Annu. Rev. Nutr. 2002;22:19-34; Pharmacol. Ther. 2001;90:157-77; Free Radic. Biol. Med. 2001;30:1213-22).
Antimicrobial Properties
In 2002, R. damascena was among eight essential oils studied for composition and antimicrobial characteristics. The antibacterial activities of the aromatic extracts were ascertained by disk diffusion testing. Among the standard test bacterial strains Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, R. damascena showed antimicrobial activity against S. aureus (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2002;25:860-4).
Recent work has provided additional evidence of its antibacterial activity. In 2010, investigators tested 10 essential oils for antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes as well as in vitro toxicology against three human cancer cell lines. Among the essential oils tested (which included mint, ginger, lemon, grapefruit, jasmine, lavender, chamomile, thyme, rose, and cinnamon) thyme, cinnamon, and rose were found to display the greatest antibacterial potency against P. acnes. Overall, the cytotoxicity of the essential oils was strongest against human prostate carcinoma cells (PC-3), as opposed to human lung carcinoma (A549) and human breast cancer (MCF-7) cells. Thyme was found to be the most cytotoxic to the cancer cell lines (Molecules 2010;15:3200-10).
UV Protection
In 2003, investigators assessed various extracts of R. damascena for its capacity as an antisolar agent in absorbing UV. The presence of flavonoids as the primary constituents of the extracts was verified before investigators identified the UV absorption spectra, with all three extracts found to be effective in absorbing UV in the 200- to 400-nm range. Next, the team incorporated the extracts into oil-in-water creams at 5% and 8% concentrations. The hydroalcoholic extract provided the highest sun protection factor (SPF), but the cream containing 5% ether extract rendered the most satisfactory appearance and stability. The authors ascribed the UV absorption ability of the extracts to the flavonoid constituents and noted that other synthetic antisolar compounds might be added to R. damascena extracts to enhance overall product efficacy (Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2003;25:259-65).
Antioxidant Properties
In 2005, Schiber et al. extracted and characterized flavonol glycosides from R. damascena petals following industrial distillation for essential oil recovery. After analyzing 22 constituents, kaempferol and quercetin were the only flavonoids (specifically, flavonols) detected, with kaempferol compounds accounting for 80% of the compounds measured. In noting the high flavonol content (approximately 16 g/kg in dry weight), the researchers concluded that R. damascena represents a promising source of natural antioxidants (Z. Naturforsch. C. 2005;60:379-84).
In a late 2010 study using a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic (RP-HPLC) method to simultaneously measure the flavonols, flavones, and phenolic acids as important constituents in various fruits, vegetables, and medicinal plants, R. damascena was identified as one of the species, along with Solidago virgaurea, Ginkgo biloba, and Camellia sinensis (the source of green tea), as having the highest flavonoid content (J. Agric. Food. Chem. 2010 Oct 4. [Epub ahead of print]).
Notably, G. biloba contains quercetin, one of the most abundant natural flavonoids, as well as other flavonoids such as kaempferol, sciadopitysin, ginkgetin, and isoginkgetin with demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2001;26:536-9; Radic. Biol. Med. 1998;25:196-200).
Also in late 2010, investigators assessed the antioxidant activity of plants typically used in Unani medicine, of which the 10 displaying the most promising effects, including R. damascena, were identified for additional analysis. The total phenolic, flavonoid, and ascorbic acid contents were ascertained from methanol (50%) extract preparations of all 10 species and researchers also evaluated the in vitro scavenging of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species and the ability of the plant extracts to prevent oxidative DNA harm. R. damascena was among seven of the 10 extracts to exhibit moderate antioxidant activity and one of three species found to potentially have significant preventive activity against oxidative DNA damage as well as antioxidant activity. The investigators concluded that R. damascena, C. icosandra, and C. scariosus, all of which are commonly used in Unani medicine (practiced in South Asia and founded on traditional Graeco-Arabic medicine) and reportedly deliver substantial benefits in the treatment of various human disorders, are potentially useful as natural antioxidants in pharmaceutical products (BMC Complement. Altern. Med. 2010;16:10-77).
A year earlier, investigators examined the phenolic content as well as the antioxidant and antibacterial activities of R. damascena flower extracts absolute, essential oil, and hydrosol. The major constituents of rose essential oil and hydrosol (great than 55%) were found to be citrenellol and geraniol, with phenylethyl alcohol (78.83%) identified as the primary component of rose absolute. The levels of key antioxidants (i.e, beta carotene, tocopherol, and gamma tocopherol) were found to be higher in rose absolute as compared to hydrosol and rose oil. High levels of phenolics were noted in rose absolute and the essential oil, which exhibited potent antibacterial activity against E. coli, P. aeruginosa, Bacillus subtilis, S. aureus, Chromobacterium violaceum, and Erwinia carotovora (Curr. Microbiol. 2009;59:554-8). Of note, hydrosols, also referred to as floral waters, flower waters, hydroflorates, or distillates, are derived from steam distilling plant materials.
Relaxing Properties
In a recent study on the relaxing effects of rose oil administered by transdermal absorption, 40 healthy volunteers were assessed based on autonomic parameters (i.e., blood pressure, breathing rate, blood oxygen saturation, pulse rate, and skin temperature) as well as self-report after receiving rose oil or placebo. Olfactory stimulation was prevented through the use of breathing masks. Significant reductions in systolic blood pressure, breathing rate, and blood saturation were observed, compared to placebo. The rose oil group also self-reported as calmer, more relaxed, and less alert. The author suggested that this small study lends support for the use of rose oil in aromatherapy for the relief of stress and depression (Nat. Prod. Commun. 2009;4:291-6).
Conclusion
The data that exist on R. damascena are interesting but hardly overwhelming. Much more research is necessary to determine the potential efficacy of this botanical in dermatologic products. The current evidence does offer promise though, and further investigation is clearly warranted to determine the full range of activity offered by R. damascena and how well the antioxidant and antibacterial activities of this herb can be harnessed in topical products.
There is more to Rosa damascena than its gorgeous flowers and lovely scent. Research on this cultivar is finding some intriguing properties that have potential for topical dermatologic products.
Rosa damascena, also known as the Damask Rose and Rose of Castile, is a rose hybrid the flowers of which have been used for rose oil in perfume and for rosewater.
It originates in the Middle East (the name is based on Damascus, Syria), but it is now only a cultivated plant and no longer found in the wild.
Bulgaria, Turkey, France, and India are the largest producers of rose oil. Rosewater has been used for centuries in religious rites and for physical, emotional, and spiritual purposes or healing. Thriving rosewater industries are found in Bulgaria and France.
In addition to its uses in the perfumery industry, R. damascena is also used for culinary purposes in several global cuisines. Geraniol, which exhibits potent antiseptic activity (seven times that of phenol), is the main constituent of several essential oils and is found in R. damascena (Hoffmann D., Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine. Rochester, Vt.: Healing Arts Press, 2003, p. 64).
Some of the earliest work to indicate the potential health and dermatologic benefits of R. damascena dates to the late 1970s.
Investigators isolated a strain of cultured cells of the plant that displayed strong resistance to UV radiation (254 nm) and generated a greater amount of polyphenols (primarily flavonoids) during the latter stages of culture growth. They found that this UV resistance was associated with increased polyphenolic production (Plant Physiol. 1979;64:936-41).
Flavonoids are the most prevalent and frequently studied polyphenols, which are the most abundant source of antioxidants in the human diet (Biomed. Pap. Med. Fac. Univ. Palacky Olomouc Czech Repub. 2003;147:137-45; J. Nutr. 2000;130 (8S Suppl):2073S-85S; Annu. Rev. Nutr. 2002;22:19-34; Pharmacol. Ther. 2001;90:157-77; Free Radic. Biol. Med. 2001;30:1213-22).
Antimicrobial Properties
In 2002, R. damascena was among eight essential oils studied for composition and antimicrobial characteristics. The antibacterial activities of the aromatic extracts were ascertained by disk diffusion testing. Among the standard test bacterial strains Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, R. damascena showed antimicrobial activity against S. aureus (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2002;25:860-4).
Recent work has provided additional evidence of its antibacterial activity. In 2010, investigators tested 10 essential oils for antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes as well as in vitro toxicology against three human cancer cell lines. Among the essential oils tested (which included mint, ginger, lemon, grapefruit, jasmine, lavender, chamomile, thyme, rose, and cinnamon) thyme, cinnamon, and rose were found to display the greatest antibacterial potency against P. acnes. Overall, the cytotoxicity of the essential oils was strongest against human prostate carcinoma cells (PC-3), as opposed to human lung carcinoma (A549) and human breast cancer (MCF-7) cells. Thyme was found to be the most cytotoxic to the cancer cell lines (Molecules 2010;15:3200-10).
UV Protection
In 2003, investigators assessed various extracts of R. damascena for its capacity as an antisolar agent in absorbing UV. The presence of flavonoids as the primary constituents of the extracts was verified before investigators identified the UV absorption spectra, with all three extracts found to be effective in absorbing UV in the 200- to 400-nm range. Next, the team incorporated the extracts into oil-in-water creams at 5% and 8% concentrations. The hydroalcoholic extract provided the highest sun protection factor (SPF), but the cream containing 5% ether extract rendered the most satisfactory appearance and stability. The authors ascribed the UV absorption ability of the extracts to the flavonoid constituents and noted that other synthetic antisolar compounds might be added to R. damascena extracts to enhance overall product efficacy (Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2003;25:259-65).
Antioxidant Properties
In 2005, Schiber et al. extracted and characterized flavonol glycosides from R. damascena petals following industrial distillation for essential oil recovery. After analyzing 22 constituents, kaempferol and quercetin were the only flavonoids (specifically, flavonols) detected, with kaempferol compounds accounting for 80% of the compounds measured. In noting the high flavonol content (approximately 16 g/kg in dry weight), the researchers concluded that R. damascena represents a promising source of natural antioxidants (Z. Naturforsch. C. 2005;60:379-84).
In a late 2010 study using a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic (RP-HPLC) method to simultaneously measure the flavonols, flavones, and phenolic acids as important constituents in various fruits, vegetables, and medicinal plants, R. damascena was identified as one of the species, along with Solidago virgaurea, Ginkgo biloba, and Camellia sinensis (the source of green tea), as having the highest flavonoid content (J. Agric. Food. Chem. 2010 Oct 4. [Epub ahead of print]).
Notably, G. biloba contains quercetin, one of the most abundant natural flavonoids, as well as other flavonoids such as kaempferol, sciadopitysin, ginkgetin, and isoginkgetin with demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2001;26:536-9; Radic. Biol. Med. 1998;25:196-200).
Also in late 2010, investigators assessed the antioxidant activity of plants typically used in Unani medicine, of which the 10 displaying the most promising effects, including R. damascena, were identified for additional analysis. The total phenolic, flavonoid, and ascorbic acid contents were ascertained from methanol (50%) extract preparations of all 10 species and researchers also evaluated the in vitro scavenging of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species and the ability of the plant extracts to prevent oxidative DNA harm. R. damascena was among seven of the 10 extracts to exhibit moderate antioxidant activity and one of three species found to potentially have significant preventive activity against oxidative DNA damage as well as antioxidant activity. The investigators concluded that R. damascena, C. icosandra, and C. scariosus, all of which are commonly used in Unani medicine (practiced in South Asia and founded on traditional Graeco-Arabic medicine) and reportedly deliver substantial benefits in the treatment of various human disorders, are potentially useful as natural antioxidants in pharmaceutical products (BMC Complement. Altern. Med. 2010;16:10-77).
A year earlier, investigators examined the phenolic content as well as the antioxidant and antibacterial activities of R. damascena flower extracts absolute, essential oil, and hydrosol. The major constituents of rose essential oil and hydrosol (great than 55%) were found to be citrenellol and geraniol, with phenylethyl alcohol (78.83%) identified as the primary component of rose absolute. The levels of key antioxidants (i.e, beta carotene, tocopherol, and gamma tocopherol) were found to be higher in rose absolute as compared to hydrosol and rose oil. High levels of phenolics were noted in rose absolute and the essential oil, which exhibited potent antibacterial activity against E. coli, P. aeruginosa, Bacillus subtilis, S. aureus, Chromobacterium violaceum, and Erwinia carotovora (Curr. Microbiol. 2009;59:554-8). Of note, hydrosols, also referred to as floral waters, flower waters, hydroflorates, or distillates, are derived from steam distilling plant materials.
Relaxing Properties
In a recent study on the relaxing effects of rose oil administered by transdermal absorption, 40 healthy volunteers were assessed based on autonomic parameters (i.e., blood pressure, breathing rate, blood oxygen saturation, pulse rate, and skin temperature) as well as self-report after receiving rose oil or placebo. Olfactory stimulation was prevented through the use of breathing masks. Significant reductions in systolic blood pressure, breathing rate, and blood saturation were observed, compared to placebo. The rose oil group also self-reported as calmer, more relaxed, and less alert. The author suggested that this small study lends support for the use of rose oil in aromatherapy for the relief of stress and depression (Nat. Prod. Commun. 2009;4:291-6).
Conclusion
The data that exist on R. damascena are interesting but hardly overwhelming. Much more research is necessary to determine the potential efficacy of this botanical in dermatologic products. The current evidence does offer promise though, and further investigation is clearly warranted to determine the full range of activity offered by R. damascena and how well the antioxidant and antibacterial activities of this herb can be harnessed in topical products.
There is more to Rosa damascena than its gorgeous flowers and lovely scent. Research on this cultivar is finding some intriguing properties that have potential for topical dermatologic products.
Rosa damascena, also known as the Damask Rose and Rose of Castile, is a rose hybrid the flowers of which have been used for rose oil in perfume and for rosewater.
It originates in the Middle East (the name is based on Damascus, Syria), but it is now only a cultivated plant and no longer found in the wild.
Bulgaria, Turkey, France, and India are the largest producers of rose oil. Rosewater has been used for centuries in religious rites and for physical, emotional, and spiritual purposes or healing. Thriving rosewater industries are found in Bulgaria and France.
In addition to its uses in the perfumery industry, R. damascena is also used for culinary purposes in several global cuisines. Geraniol, which exhibits potent antiseptic activity (seven times that of phenol), is the main constituent of several essential oils and is found in R. damascena (Hoffmann D., Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine. Rochester, Vt.: Healing Arts Press, 2003, p. 64).
Some of the earliest work to indicate the potential health and dermatologic benefits of R. damascena dates to the late 1970s.
Investigators isolated a strain of cultured cells of the plant that displayed strong resistance to UV radiation (254 nm) and generated a greater amount of polyphenols (primarily flavonoids) during the latter stages of culture growth. They found that this UV resistance was associated with increased polyphenolic production (Plant Physiol. 1979;64:936-41).
Flavonoids are the most prevalent and frequently studied polyphenols, which are the most abundant source of antioxidants in the human diet (Biomed. Pap. Med. Fac. Univ. Palacky Olomouc Czech Repub. 2003;147:137-45; J. Nutr. 2000;130 (8S Suppl):2073S-85S; Annu. Rev. Nutr. 2002;22:19-34; Pharmacol. Ther. 2001;90:157-77; Free Radic. Biol. Med. 2001;30:1213-22).
Antimicrobial Properties
In 2002, R. damascena was among eight essential oils studied for composition and antimicrobial characteristics. The antibacterial activities of the aromatic extracts were ascertained by disk diffusion testing. Among the standard test bacterial strains Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, R. damascena showed antimicrobial activity against S. aureus (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2002;25:860-4).
Recent work has provided additional evidence of its antibacterial activity. In 2010, investigators tested 10 essential oils for antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes as well as in vitro toxicology against three human cancer cell lines. Among the essential oils tested (which included mint, ginger, lemon, grapefruit, jasmine, lavender, chamomile, thyme, rose, and cinnamon) thyme, cinnamon, and rose were found to display the greatest antibacterial potency against P. acnes. Overall, the cytotoxicity of the essential oils was strongest against human prostate carcinoma cells (PC-3), as opposed to human lung carcinoma (A549) and human breast cancer (MCF-7) cells. Thyme was found to be the most cytotoxic to the cancer cell lines (Molecules 2010;15:3200-10).
UV Protection
In 2003, investigators assessed various extracts of R. damascena for its capacity as an antisolar agent in absorbing UV. The presence of flavonoids as the primary constituents of the extracts was verified before investigators identified the UV absorption spectra, with all three extracts found to be effective in absorbing UV in the 200- to 400-nm range. Next, the team incorporated the extracts into oil-in-water creams at 5% and 8% concentrations. The hydroalcoholic extract provided the highest sun protection factor (SPF), but the cream containing 5% ether extract rendered the most satisfactory appearance and stability. The authors ascribed the UV absorption ability of the extracts to the flavonoid constituents and noted that other synthetic antisolar compounds might be added to R. damascena extracts to enhance overall product efficacy (Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2003;25:259-65).
Antioxidant Properties
In 2005, Schiber et al. extracted and characterized flavonol glycosides from R. damascena petals following industrial distillation for essential oil recovery. After analyzing 22 constituents, kaempferol and quercetin were the only flavonoids (specifically, flavonols) detected, with kaempferol compounds accounting for 80% of the compounds measured. In noting the high flavonol content (approximately 16 g/kg in dry weight), the researchers concluded that R. damascena represents a promising source of natural antioxidants (Z. Naturforsch. C. 2005;60:379-84).
In a late 2010 study using a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic (RP-HPLC) method to simultaneously measure the flavonols, flavones, and phenolic acids as important constituents in various fruits, vegetables, and medicinal plants, R. damascena was identified as one of the species, along with Solidago virgaurea, Ginkgo biloba, and Camellia sinensis (the source of green tea), as having the highest flavonoid content (J. Agric. Food. Chem. 2010 Oct 4. [Epub ahead of print]).
Notably, G. biloba contains quercetin, one of the most abundant natural flavonoids, as well as other flavonoids such as kaempferol, sciadopitysin, ginkgetin, and isoginkgetin with demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2001;26:536-9; Radic. Biol. Med. 1998;25:196-200).
Also in late 2010, investigators assessed the antioxidant activity of plants typically used in Unani medicine, of which the 10 displaying the most promising effects, including R. damascena, were identified for additional analysis. The total phenolic, flavonoid, and ascorbic acid contents were ascertained from methanol (50%) extract preparations of all 10 species and researchers also evaluated the in vitro scavenging of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species and the ability of the plant extracts to prevent oxidative DNA harm. R. damascena was among seven of the 10 extracts to exhibit moderate antioxidant activity and one of three species found to potentially have significant preventive activity against oxidative DNA damage as well as antioxidant activity. The investigators concluded that R. damascena, C. icosandra, and C. scariosus, all of which are commonly used in Unani medicine (practiced in South Asia and founded on traditional Graeco-Arabic medicine) and reportedly deliver substantial benefits in the treatment of various human disorders, are potentially useful as natural antioxidants in pharmaceutical products (BMC Complement. Altern. Med. 2010;16:10-77).
A year earlier, investigators examined the phenolic content as well as the antioxidant and antibacterial activities of R. damascena flower extracts absolute, essential oil, and hydrosol. The major constituents of rose essential oil and hydrosol (great than 55%) were found to be citrenellol and geraniol, with phenylethyl alcohol (78.83%) identified as the primary component of rose absolute. The levels of key antioxidants (i.e, beta carotene, tocopherol, and gamma tocopherol) were found to be higher in rose absolute as compared to hydrosol and rose oil. High levels of phenolics were noted in rose absolute and the essential oil, which exhibited potent antibacterial activity against E. coli, P. aeruginosa, Bacillus subtilis, S. aureus, Chromobacterium violaceum, and Erwinia carotovora (Curr. Microbiol. 2009;59:554-8). Of note, hydrosols, also referred to as floral waters, flower waters, hydroflorates, or distillates, are derived from steam distilling plant materials.
Relaxing Properties
In a recent study on the relaxing effects of rose oil administered by transdermal absorption, 40 healthy volunteers were assessed based on autonomic parameters (i.e., blood pressure, breathing rate, blood oxygen saturation, pulse rate, and skin temperature) as well as self-report after receiving rose oil or placebo. Olfactory stimulation was prevented through the use of breathing masks. Significant reductions in systolic blood pressure, breathing rate, and blood saturation were observed, compared to placebo. The rose oil group also self-reported as calmer, more relaxed, and less alert. The author suggested that this small study lends support for the use of rose oil in aromatherapy for the relief of stress and depression (Nat. Prod. Commun. 2009;4:291-6).
Conclusion
The data that exist on R. damascena are interesting but hardly overwhelming. Much more research is necessary to determine the potential efficacy of this botanical in dermatologic products. The current evidence does offer promise though, and further investigation is clearly warranted to determine the full range of activity offered by R. damascena and how well the antioxidant and antibacterial activities of this herb can be harnessed in topical products.