Cosmeceutical Critique

Portulaca oleracea, also known as purslane, has long been used in various traditional medicine systems to relieve pain and edema.¹Portulaca oleracea is a warm-climate annual plant originally found in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Indian subcontinent and now cultivated in the Arabian peninsula; Japan, where it is an abundant garden plant from spring to fall;^2,3 and throughout the world.

The use of P. oleracea, a member of the Portulacaceae family, as a vegetable as well as herbal medicine dates back several centuries.⁴ In modern times, purslane has been found to be rich in antioxidants, particularly omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins C and E, beta-carotene, melatonin, and glutathione, as well as several minerals.^5,6,7 Currently, it is considered one of the top ten most common plants in the world, and one of the most-used medical plants according to the World Health Organization.⁶ It is considered a weed in the United States, but is eaten in many parts of the world.

Antioxidant activity

Using two different assays, Uddin et al. determined in 2012 that P. oleracea cultivars exhibited significant antioxidant activity through various growth stages. In addition, the researchers suggested that purslane could provide multiple minerals as well as antioxidants in the context of nutraceutical products and functional food.⁷ Early this year, Silva et al. studied the antioxidant activity of P. oleracea leaves, flowers, and stems from two different locations in Portugal, with assays revealing significantly greater antioxidant activity in the stems of both samples compared to the leaves and flowers. However, the phenolic extracts of all three plant sections from both samples were found to protect DNA against hydroxyl radicals. The investigators concluded that their findings, particularly related to high antioxidant activity, support the potential benefits of purslane consumption to human health.⁸

A 2014 analysis of 13 collected purslane accessions revealed significant mineral content (particularly potassium, followed by nitrogen, sodium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, and manganese) and showed that antioxidant activity was more strongly associated with ornamental as opposed to common purslane, the latter of which was richer in mineral content.⁶

Anti-inflammatory activity

In 2000, Chan et al. found that a 10% ethanolic extract of the dried leaves and stem of a P. oleracea cultivar displayed significant anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties after topical and intraperitoneal, but not oral, administration in comparison to diclofenac sodium, a synthetic drug used as active control. They added that these activities corresponded to the reputed effects of the traditional uses of the wild species.⁹

Wound healing activity

Rashed et al. reported in 2003 that a crude extract of P. oleracea accelerates wound healing. They used Mus musculus JVI-1 to show that fresh homogenized crude aerial parts of the plant topically applied on excision wound surfaces reduced wound surface areas and increased tensile strength. The best documented contraction was associated with a single dose of 50 mg, followed by two doses of 25 mg each.¹⁰

Oral lichen planus treatment

In 2010, Agha-Hosseini et al. conducted a randomized double-blind placebo-controlled 3-month study to assess the effectiveness of purslane in the treatment of oral lichen planus. Thirty-seven symptomatic patients (confirmed by biopsy) were divided into a purslane treatment group (n = 20) and a placebo group (n = 17). The investigators reported that partial to complete clinical improvement was observed in 83% of the treatment group, with no response in the remaining 17%, whereas partial improvement was seen in 17% of the placebo group, 73% had no response, and the condition was aggravated in 10% of the placebo group. No adverse side effects were reported in either group, and the researchers concluded that purslane was clinically effective in treating oral lichen planus and warrants consideration as a treatment option for the disorder.⁵

Other activities

In 2001, Radhakrishnan et al. identified several neuropharmacological actions, particularly anti-nociceptive and muscle-relaxing activity, with a range of effects on the central and peripheral nervous system observed in animal studies.¹ The betacyanins found in P. oleracea have subsequently been found to confer a protective effect against neurotoxicity, specifically, ameliorating the D-galactose-induced cognitive deficits in senescent mice.¹¹P. oleracea also has been shown to efficiently eliminate the endocrine-disrupting chemical bisphenol A from a hydroponic solution.¹²

In 2012, Yan et al. showed that three newly isolated homoisoflavonoids, known as portulacanones, and the compound 2,2’-dihydroxy-4’,6’-dimethoxychalcone selectively exhibited in vitro cytotoxic activities against four human cancer cell lines.²

Conclusions

This antioxidant-rich plant is found throughout the world and has long been associated with traditional health care. Modern research into its potential dermatologic uses is ongoing, but the evidence is relatively scarce. There are indications that the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing activity reportedly exhibited by purslane may be harnessed for various cutaneous applications. However, much more research is necessary to determine how extensive a role purslane may play in skin care.

References

1.J. Ethnopharmacol. 2001;76:171-6

2.Phytochemistry 2012;80:37-41

3.J. Biosci. Bioeng. 2007;103:420-6

4.J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;73:445-51

5.Phytother. Res. 2010;24:240-4

6.Biomed. Res. Int. 2014;2014:296063

7.Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2012;13:10257-67

8.Nat Prod. Commun. 2014;9:45-50

9. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;73:445-51

10. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2003;88:131-6

11. Phytomedicine. 2010 Jun;17:527-32

12. Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem. 2012;76:1015-7

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Portulaca oleracea, also known as purslane, has long been used in various traditional medicine systems to relieve pain and edema.¹Portulaca oleracea is a warm-climate annual plant originally found in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Indian subcontinent and now cultivated in the Arabian peninsula; Japan, where it is an abundant garden plant from spring to fall;^2,3 and throughout the world.

The use of P. oleracea, a member of the Portulacaceae family, as a vegetable as well as herbal medicine dates back several centuries.⁴ In modern times, purslane has been found to be rich in antioxidants, particularly omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins C and E, beta-carotene, melatonin, and glutathione, as well as several minerals.^5,6,7 Currently, it is considered one of the top ten most common plants in the world, and one of the most-used medical plants according to the World Health Organization.⁶ It is considered a weed in the United States, but is eaten in many parts of the world.

Antioxidant activity

Using two different assays, Uddin et al. determined in 2012 that P. oleracea cultivars exhibited significant antioxidant activity through various growth stages. In addition, the researchers suggested that purslane could provide multiple minerals as well as antioxidants in the context of nutraceutical products and functional food.⁷ Early this year, Silva et al. studied the antioxidant activity of P. oleracea leaves, flowers, and stems from two different locations in Portugal, with assays revealing significantly greater antioxidant activity in the stems of both samples compared to the leaves and flowers. However, the phenolic extracts of all three plant sections from both samples were found to protect DNA against hydroxyl radicals. The investigators concluded that their findings, particularly related to high antioxidant activity, support the potential benefits of purslane consumption to human health.⁸

A 2014 analysis of 13 collected purslane accessions revealed significant mineral content (particularly potassium, followed by nitrogen, sodium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, and manganese) and showed that antioxidant activity was more strongly associated with ornamental as opposed to common purslane, the latter of which was richer in mineral content.⁶

Anti-inflammatory activity

In 2000, Chan et al. found that a 10% ethanolic extract of the dried leaves and stem of a P. oleracea cultivar displayed significant anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties after topical and intraperitoneal, but not oral, administration in comparison to diclofenac sodium, a synthetic drug used as active control. They added that these activities corresponded to the reputed effects of the traditional uses of the wild species.⁹

Wound healing activity

Rashed et al. reported in 2003 that a crude extract of P. oleracea accelerates wound healing. They used Mus musculus JVI-1 to show that fresh homogenized crude aerial parts of the plant topically applied on excision wound surfaces reduced wound surface areas and increased tensile strength. The best documented contraction was associated with a single dose of 50 mg, followed by two doses of 25 mg each.¹⁰

Oral lichen planus treatment

In 2010, Agha-Hosseini et al. conducted a randomized double-blind placebo-controlled 3-month study to assess the effectiveness of purslane in the treatment of oral lichen planus. Thirty-seven symptomatic patients (confirmed by biopsy) were divided into a purslane treatment group (n = 20) and a placebo group (n = 17). The investigators reported that partial to complete clinical improvement was observed in 83% of the treatment group, with no response in the remaining 17%, whereas partial improvement was seen in 17% of the placebo group, 73% had no response, and the condition was aggravated in 10% of the placebo group. No adverse side effects were reported in either group, and the researchers concluded that purslane was clinically effective in treating oral lichen planus and warrants consideration as a treatment option for the disorder.⁵

Other activities

In 2001, Radhakrishnan et al. identified several neuropharmacological actions, particularly anti-nociceptive and muscle-relaxing activity, with a range of effects on the central and peripheral nervous system observed in animal studies.¹ The betacyanins found in P. oleracea have subsequently been found to confer a protective effect against neurotoxicity, specifically, ameliorating the D-galactose-induced cognitive deficits in senescent mice.¹¹P. oleracea also has been shown to efficiently eliminate the endocrine-disrupting chemical bisphenol A from a hydroponic solution.¹²

In 2012, Yan et al. showed that three newly isolated homoisoflavonoids, known as portulacanones, and the compound 2,2’-dihydroxy-4’,6’-dimethoxychalcone selectively exhibited in vitro cytotoxic activities against four human cancer cell lines.²

Conclusions

This antioxidant-rich plant is found throughout the world and has long been associated with traditional health care. Modern research into its potential dermatologic uses is ongoing, but the evidence is relatively scarce. There are indications that the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing activity reportedly exhibited by purslane may be harnessed for various cutaneous applications. However, much more research is necessary to determine how extensive a role purslane may play in skin care.

References

1.J. Ethnopharmacol. 2001;76:171-6

2.Phytochemistry 2012;80:37-41

3.J. Biosci. Bioeng. 2007;103:420-6

4.J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;73:445-51

5.Phytother. Res. 2010;24:240-4

6.Biomed. Res. Int. 2014;2014:296063

7.Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2012;13:10257-67

8.Nat Prod. Commun. 2014;9:45-50

9. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;73:445-51

10. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2003;88:131-6

11. Phytomedicine. 2010 Jun;17:527-32

12. Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem. 2012;76:1015-7

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Portulaca oleracea, also known as purslane, has long been used in various traditional medicine systems to relieve pain and edema.¹Portulaca oleracea is a warm-climate annual plant originally found in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Indian subcontinent and now cultivated in the Arabian peninsula; Japan, where it is an abundant garden plant from spring to fall;^2,3 and throughout the world.

The use of P. oleracea, a member of the Portulacaceae family, as a vegetable as well as herbal medicine dates back several centuries.⁴ In modern times, purslane has been found to be rich in antioxidants, particularly omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins C and E, beta-carotene, melatonin, and glutathione, as well as several minerals.^5,6,7 Currently, it is considered one of the top ten most common plants in the world, and one of the most-used medical plants according to the World Health Organization.⁶ It is considered a weed in the United States, but is eaten in many parts of the world.

Antioxidant activity

Using two different assays, Uddin et al. determined in 2012 that P. oleracea cultivars exhibited significant antioxidant activity through various growth stages. In addition, the researchers suggested that purslane could provide multiple minerals as well as antioxidants in the context of nutraceutical products and functional food.⁷ Early this year, Silva et al. studied the antioxidant activity of P. oleracea leaves, flowers, and stems from two different locations in Portugal, with assays revealing significantly greater antioxidant activity in the stems of both samples compared to the leaves and flowers. However, the phenolic extracts of all three plant sections from both samples were found to protect DNA against hydroxyl radicals. The investigators concluded that their findings, particularly related to high antioxidant activity, support the potential benefits of purslane consumption to human health.⁸

A 2014 analysis of 13 collected purslane accessions revealed significant mineral content (particularly potassium, followed by nitrogen, sodium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, and manganese) and showed that antioxidant activity was more strongly associated with ornamental as opposed to common purslane, the latter of which was richer in mineral content.⁶

Anti-inflammatory activity

In 2000, Chan et al. found that a 10% ethanolic extract of the dried leaves and stem of a P. oleracea cultivar displayed significant anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties after topical and intraperitoneal, but not oral, administration in comparison to diclofenac sodium, a synthetic drug used as active control. They added that these activities corresponded to the reputed effects of the traditional uses of the wild species.⁹

Wound healing activity

Rashed et al. reported in 2003 that a crude extract of P. oleracea accelerates wound healing. They used Mus musculus JVI-1 to show that fresh homogenized crude aerial parts of the plant topically applied on excision wound surfaces reduced wound surface areas and increased tensile strength. The best documented contraction was associated with a single dose of 50 mg, followed by two doses of 25 mg each.¹⁰

Oral lichen planus treatment

In 2010, Agha-Hosseini et al. conducted a randomized double-blind placebo-controlled 3-month study to assess the effectiveness of purslane in the treatment of oral lichen planus. Thirty-seven symptomatic patients (confirmed by biopsy) were divided into a purslane treatment group (n = 20) and a placebo group (n = 17). The investigators reported that partial to complete clinical improvement was observed in 83% of the treatment group, with no response in the remaining 17%, whereas partial improvement was seen in 17% of the placebo group, 73% had no response, and the condition was aggravated in 10% of the placebo group. No adverse side effects were reported in either group, and the researchers concluded that purslane was clinically effective in treating oral lichen planus and warrants consideration as a treatment option for the disorder.⁵

Other activities

In 2001, Radhakrishnan et al. identified several neuropharmacological actions, particularly anti-nociceptive and muscle-relaxing activity, with a range of effects on the central and peripheral nervous system observed in animal studies.¹ The betacyanins found in P. oleracea have subsequently been found to confer a protective effect against neurotoxicity, specifically, ameliorating the D-galactose-induced cognitive deficits in senescent mice.¹¹P. oleracea also has been shown to efficiently eliminate the endocrine-disrupting chemical bisphenol A from a hydroponic solution.¹²

In 2012, Yan et al. showed that three newly isolated homoisoflavonoids, known as portulacanones, and the compound 2,2’-dihydroxy-4’,6’-dimethoxychalcone selectively exhibited in vitro cytotoxic activities against four human cancer cell lines.²

Conclusions

This antioxidant-rich plant is found throughout the world and has long been associated with traditional health care. Modern research into its potential dermatologic uses is ongoing, but the evidence is relatively scarce. There are indications that the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing activity reportedly exhibited by purslane may be harnessed for various cutaneous applications. However, much more research is necessary to determine how extensive a role purslane may play in skin care.

References

1.J. Ethnopharmacol. 2001;76:171-6

2.Phytochemistry 2012;80:37-41

3.J. Biosci. Bioeng. 2007;103:420-6

4.J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;73:445-51

5.Phytother. Res. 2010;24:240-4

6.Biomed. Res. Int. 2014;2014:296063

7.Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2012;13:10257-67

8.Nat Prod. Commun. 2014;9:45-50

9. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;73:445-51

10. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2003;88:131-6

11. Phytomedicine. 2010 Jun;17:527-32

12. Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem. 2012;76:1015-7

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

For centuries, the leaves of Plantago major have been used in most regions of the world in traditional medical treatment of wounds and various diseases, including cutaneous conditions (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21). P. major, also known as broadleaf plantain or greater plantain, is a member of the Plantaginaceae family, which is now widely dispersed throughout the world, though native to much of Europe as well as northern and central Asia. The Norwegian and Swedish name for the plant, groblad, means “healing leaves” (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21). It was brought to the Americas by Europeans during the colonial period. Native Americans referred to it as the “white man’s footprint,” which inspired the genus name Plantago from the Latin planta (foot) (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21).

Among the biologically active constituents of P. major are polysaccharides, lipids, caffeic acid derivatives, flavonoids (apigenin, luteolin, scutellarin, baicalein, nepetin, hispidulin, plantagoside), iridoid glycosides (aucubin, catalpol), terpenoids, and alkaloids (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21; Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press). In an ethnopharmacologic and folk medicine survey study of 1,225 residents of the Atlantic coast of Colombia completed in 2011, Gómez-Estrada et al. found that P. major was one of the plants traditionally used to treat inflammation; it also was used to treat kidney pain and eye injuries (J. Ethnobiol. Ethnomed. 2011;7:27). P. major also is traditionally used as a mucilage and bulk laxative (Principles and Practice of Phytotherapy: Modern Herbal Medicine, 2013, Churchill Livingstone).

Wikimedia Commons

Extracts of the plant have been associated with myriad biologic activities, including wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, analgesic, antioxidant, immunomodulating, and antiulcerogenic action, which Samuelsen suggested may account for the use of the botanical in traditional medicine (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21; Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press). In fact, the range of biologic properties attributed to P. major also includes astringent, anesthetic, antihelminthic, analeptic, antihistaminic, antirheumatic, antiviral, antitumor, antiulcer, diuretic, hypotensive, and expectorant activity (Exp. Biol. Med. [Maywood] 2012;237:1379-86). Though not the most popular botanical for this indication, P. major is among the plants used in the treatment of cutaneous leishmanial ulcers in Bahia, Brazil, where Leishmania brazilenesis is endemic (Rev. Soc. Bras. Med. Trop. 1996;29:229-32). Other dermatologic uses in traditional medicine include eczema, cuts, hemorrhoids, ulcerations, and wounds (Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press).

Wound healing

The use of P. major for wound healing dates back to the first century, as described by the Greek physician Dioscorides in “De Materia Medica” (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21).

In 2011, Krasnov et al. developed an experimental model for characterizing proteins and showed that a newly discovered group of tissue-specific biogregulating proteins found previously in animal tissues was also present in P. major and responsible for the wound-healing activity associated with the plant (Prikl Biokhim. Mikrobiol. 2011;47:146-53).

The next year, Thomé et al. investigated and compared the wound-healing effects of P. major and Siparuna guianensis with a commercial product used in Brazil. Mice with cervical dorsal area wounds were treated with the botanical ingredients and the commercial product. Decreases in the wound area occurred earliest in mice treated with P. major, with complete closure (by day 15) seen only in this group. The investigators concluded that their findings support the traditional application of P. major, which shows potential as a viable wound-healing agent (Exp. Biol. Med. [Maywood] 2012;237:1379-86).

Conclusion

The numerous biologic properties of P. major are well established. In addition, use of the plant in traditional medicine for some cutaneous indications warrants consideration for modern therapeutic usage. Much more research is necessary, however, to elucidate the potential incorporation of this botanical into standard topical preparations for any of various skin conditions.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

For centuries, the leaves of Plantago major have been used in most regions of the world in traditional medical treatment of wounds and various diseases, including cutaneous conditions (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21). P. major, also known as broadleaf plantain or greater plantain, is a member of the Plantaginaceae family, which is now widely dispersed throughout the world, though native to much of Europe as well as northern and central Asia. The Norwegian and Swedish name for the plant, groblad, means “healing leaves” (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21). It was brought to the Americas by Europeans during the colonial period. Native Americans referred to it as the “white man’s footprint,” which inspired the genus name Plantago from the Latin planta (foot) (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21).

Among the biologically active constituents of P. major are polysaccharides, lipids, caffeic acid derivatives, flavonoids (apigenin, luteolin, scutellarin, baicalein, nepetin, hispidulin, plantagoside), iridoid glycosides (aucubin, catalpol), terpenoids, and alkaloids (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21; Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press). In an ethnopharmacologic and folk medicine survey study of 1,225 residents of the Atlantic coast of Colombia completed in 2011, Gómez-Estrada et al. found that P. major was one of the plants traditionally used to treat inflammation; it also was used to treat kidney pain and eye injuries (J. Ethnobiol. Ethnomed. 2011;7:27). P. major also is traditionally used as a mucilage and bulk laxative (Principles and Practice of Phytotherapy: Modern Herbal Medicine, 2013, Churchill Livingstone).

Wikimedia Commons

Extracts of the plant have been associated with myriad biologic activities, including wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, analgesic, antioxidant, immunomodulating, and antiulcerogenic action, which Samuelsen suggested may account for the use of the botanical in traditional medicine (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21; Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press). In fact, the range of biologic properties attributed to P. major also includes astringent, anesthetic, antihelminthic, analeptic, antihistaminic, antirheumatic, antiviral, antitumor, antiulcer, diuretic, hypotensive, and expectorant activity (Exp. Biol. Med. [Maywood] 2012;237:1379-86). Though not the most popular botanical for this indication, P. major is among the plants used in the treatment of cutaneous leishmanial ulcers in Bahia, Brazil, where Leishmania brazilenesis is endemic (Rev. Soc. Bras. Med. Trop. 1996;29:229-32). Other dermatologic uses in traditional medicine include eczema, cuts, hemorrhoids, ulcerations, and wounds (Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press).

Wound healing

The use of P. major for wound healing dates back to the first century, as described by the Greek physician Dioscorides in “De Materia Medica” (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21).

In 2011, Krasnov et al. developed an experimental model for characterizing proteins and showed that a newly discovered group of tissue-specific biogregulating proteins found previously in animal tissues was also present in P. major and responsible for the wound-healing activity associated with the plant (Prikl Biokhim. Mikrobiol. 2011;47:146-53).

The next year, Thomé et al. investigated and compared the wound-healing effects of P. major and Siparuna guianensis with a commercial product used in Brazil. Mice with cervical dorsal area wounds were treated with the botanical ingredients and the commercial product. Decreases in the wound area occurred earliest in mice treated with P. major, with complete closure (by day 15) seen only in this group. The investigators concluded that their findings support the traditional application of P. major, which shows potential as a viable wound-healing agent (Exp. Biol. Med. [Maywood] 2012;237:1379-86).

Conclusion

The numerous biologic properties of P. major are well established. In addition, use of the plant in traditional medicine for some cutaneous indications warrants consideration for modern therapeutic usage. Much more research is necessary, however, to elucidate the potential incorporation of this botanical into standard topical preparations for any of various skin conditions.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

For centuries, the leaves of Plantago major have been used in most regions of the world in traditional medical treatment of wounds and various diseases, including cutaneous conditions (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21). P. major, also known as broadleaf plantain or greater plantain, is a member of the Plantaginaceae family, which is now widely dispersed throughout the world, though native to much of Europe as well as northern and central Asia. The Norwegian and Swedish name for the plant, groblad, means “healing leaves” (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21). It was brought to the Americas by Europeans during the colonial period. Native Americans referred to it as the “white man’s footprint,” which inspired the genus name Plantago from the Latin planta (foot) (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21).

Among the biologically active constituents of P. major are polysaccharides, lipids, caffeic acid derivatives, flavonoids (apigenin, luteolin, scutellarin, baicalein, nepetin, hispidulin, plantagoside), iridoid glycosides (aucubin, catalpol), terpenoids, and alkaloids (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21; Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press). In an ethnopharmacologic and folk medicine survey study of 1,225 residents of the Atlantic coast of Colombia completed in 2011, Gómez-Estrada et al. found that P. major was one of the plants traditionally used to treat inflammation; it also was used to treat kidney pain and eye injuries (J. Ethnobiol. Ethnomed. 2011;7:27). P. major also is traditionally used as a mucilage and bulk laxative (Principles and Practice of Phytotherapy: Modern Herbal Medicine, 2013, Churchill Livingstone).

Wikimedia Commons

Extracts of the plant have been associated with myriad biologic activities, including wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, analgesic, antioxidant, immunomodulating, and antiulcerogenic action, which Samuelsen suggested may account for the use of the botanical in traditional medicine (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21; Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press). In fact, the range of biologic properties attributed to P. major also includes astringent, anesthetic, antihelminthic, analeptic, antihistaminic, antirheumatic, antiviral, antitumor, antiulcer, diuretic, hypotensive, and expectorant activity (Exp. Biol. Med. [Maywood] 2012;237:1379-86). Though not the most popular botanical for this indication, P. major is among the plants used in the treatment of cutaneous leishmanial ulcers in Bahia, Brazil, where Leishmania brazilenesis is endemic (Rev. Soc. Bras. Med. Trop. 1996;29:229-32). Other dermatologic uses in traditional medicine include eczema, cuts, hemorrhoids, ulcerations, and wounds (Medical Herbalism: The Science and Practice of Herbal Medicine, 2003, Healing Arts Press).

Wound healing

The use of P. major for wound healing dates back to the first century, as described by the Greek physician Dioscorides in “De Materia Medica” (J. Ethnopharmacol. 2000;71:1-21).

In 2011, Krasnov et al. developed an experimental model for characterizing proteins and showed that a newly discovered group of tissue-specific biogregulating proteins found previously in animal tissues was also present in P. major and responsible for the wound-healing activity associated with the plant (Prikl Biokhim. Mikrobiol. 2011;47:146-53).

The next year, Thomé et al. investigated and compared the wound-healing effects of P. major and Siparuna guianensis with a commercial product used in Brazil. Mice with cervical dorsal area wounds were treated with the botanical ingredients and the commercial product. Decreases in the wound area occurred earliest in mice treated with P. major, with complete closure (by day 15) seen only in this group. The investigators concluded that their findings support the traditional application of P. major, which shows potential as a viable wound-healing agent (Exp. Biol. Med. [Maywood] 2012;237:1379-86).

Conclusion

The numerous biologic properties of P. major are well established. In addition, use of the plant in traditional medicine for some cutaneous indications warrants consideration for modern therapeutic usage. Much more research is necessary, however, to elucidate the potential incorporation of this botanical into standard topical preparations for any of various skin conditions.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Kinetin (N6-furfuryladenine or 6-furfurylaminopurine) is a plant cytokinin or phytohormone that promotes cell division, delays senescence in plants, and is reputed to aid in the restoration of skin barrier function and, possibly, in reducing the signs and symptoms of rosacea (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2007;32:693-5; Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45).

Kinetin is believed to develop in cellular DNA as a product of the oxidative, secondary modification of DNA (Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45). In 1955, it became the first cytokinin isolated from DNA (from herring sperm) as an artifactual rearrangement product of the autoclaving process (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9; Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92).

It has since been found to be present in human urine as well as DNA freshly extracted from human cells (Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92). The preponderance of amassed experimental evidence suggests that endogenous kinetin acts in vitro and in vivo as a potent antioxidant (Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45). Currently, it is used as an anti-aging agent in various cosmetic products (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9; J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2010;9:218-25). Synthetic kinetin is thought to have the capacity to neutralize free radicals as well as limit the damage to DNA and fibroblasts (Photochem. Photobiol. 2012;88:748-52).

In vitro results

Olsen et al. demonstrated in vitro in 1999 that kinetin dose-dependently protected DNA against oxidative damage mediated by the Fenton reaction, and noted that kinetin had previously been linked to anti-aging activity in plants, fruit flies, and human cells in culture (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 1999;265:499-502). The following year, Verbeke et al. showed in vitro that kinetin potently inhibited damage caused by oxidation and glycoxidation (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 2000;276:1265-70).

In 2006, Vicanova et al. analyzed the effects of active ingredients from topical and systemic skin care formulations in vitro, finding that kinetin affected the upper dermis by enhancing deposits of fibrillin-1 and elastin fibers as well as their organization perpendicular to the dermal-epidermal junction. In the epidermis, kinetin stimulated keratinocyte production. Further, the investigators noted that the combination of topically applied kinetin with Imedeen Time Perfection ingredients (i.e., BioMarine Complex, grape seed extract, tomato extract, and vitamin C) supplemented systemically into culture medium yielded complementary benefits to dermal and epidermal development (Ann. N.Y. Acad. Sci. 2006;1067:337-42).

It is worth noting that in a study by Tournas et al. published the same month, investigators found that the topical application of a combination of vitamins C and E and ferulic acid yielded photoprotection to pig skin at 5 times the minimal erythema dose (MED) while individual antioxidants to which it was compared (i.e., coenzyme Q10, idebenone, and kinetin) delivered no photoprotective effects (J. Invest. Dermatol. 2006;126:1185-7). Nevertheless, Barciszewski et al. have observed that kinetin is the first stable secondary DNA damage product characterized by well defined cytokinin and anti-aging activity, with data showing that it has delayed human cellular aging in culture (Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92).

Rosacea

In 2007, Wu et al. performed a 12-week open-label study in 15 women and 3 men (aged 30-67 years) to ascertain the tolerability and efficacy of kinetin 0.1% lotion in the treatment of mild to moderate facial rosacea. Patients (17 of whom completed the study) applied the lotion twice daily, also daily applying an SPF 30 sunscreen. By week 4, significant improvements were observed in the reduction of skin roughness and mottled hyperpigmentation. Subject assessments at each 4-week interval after baseline and after 12 weeks revealed that kinetin 0.1% was well tolerated and effective for mild to moderate inflammatory rosacea (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2007;32:693-5).

Anti-aging

A 2002 study by J.L. McCullough and G.D. Weinstein represented the first evidence of the efficacy of topical kinetin in human beings, with twice-daily application for 24 weeks found to ameliorate skin texture, color, and blotchiness while diminishing rhytides and transepidermal water loss (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2002;15:29-32).

Two years later, T. Kimura and K. Doi showed that topical administration of kinetin improved the texture, wrinkling, and pigmentation of aged skin of hairless descendants of Mexican hairless dogs, resulting in notable depigmentation and rejuvenation after 100 days of treatment (Rejuvenation Res. 2004;7:32-9).In 2007, Chiu et al. conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative study in 52 Taiwanese subjects aged 30-60 years (90% of whom were female, all of whom had Fitzpatrick skin types II, III, or IV) to evaluate the clinical anti-aging effects and efficacy differences between kinetin plus niacinamide (kinetin 0.03%, niacinamide 4%) and niacinamide 4% alone versus vehicle placebo.

In the combination group, significant and sustained decreases were observed in counts of spots, pores, wrinkles, and evenness as well as persistent reductions in erythema index at weeks 8 and 12. At week 12, stratum corneum hydration status also was significantly enhanced in this group. In the niacinamide-only group, pore and evenness counts were significantly decreased at week 8, with declines in wrinkle counts emerging at week 12. The investigators concluded that kinetin and niacinamide display synergistic and dynamic anti-aging effects, showing substantial potential as topical anti-aging cosmeceutical agents (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9).

However, Levin et al. noted in 2010 that while the effects of kinetin have been established in plants and its antioxidant properties have been displayed in vitro, the anti-aging effects and clinical efficacy ascribed to kinetin have been based on limited evidence, with no studies extant on the percutaneous absorption of kinetin. They added that research elucidating the mechanisms through which kinetin appears to improve skin barrier function, texture, and pigmentation also are lacking (J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol. 2010;3:22-41).

In 2012, Campos et al. assessed the effects on hydration, viscoelastic characteristics, and photoprotection of cosmetic preparations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, alpha-lipoic acid, and kinetin. They observed that the formulation protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV harm. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the combination product was found to have improved moisturization of the stratum corneum, also delivering hydration effects to deeper skin layers. The researchers concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing kinetin shows promise as a cutaneous anti-aging product (Photochem. Photobiol. 2012;88:748-52).

Conclusion

While some experimental and clinical results appear to suggest an anti-aging effect exerted by topically applied kinetin, much more research – particularly randomized controlled and comparison studies – are needed to provide a clearer picture as to the mechanisms and appropriate role of kinetin in the dermatologic armamentarium.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Kinetin (N6-furfuryladenine or 6-furfurylaminopurine) is a plant cytokinin or phytohormone that promotes cell division, delays senescence in plants, and is reputed to aid in the restoration of skin barrier function and, possibly, in reducing the signs and symptoms of rosacea (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2007;32:693-5; Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45).

Kinetin is believed to develop in cellular DNA as a product of the oxidative, secondary modification of DNA (Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45). In 1955, it became the first cytokinin isolated from DNA (from herring sperm) as an artifactual rearrangement product of the autoclaving process (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9; Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92).

It has since been found to be present in human urine as well as DNA freshly extracted from human cells (Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92). The preponderance of amassed experimental evidence suggests that endogenous kinetin acts in vitro and in vivo as a potent antioxidant (Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45). Currently, it is used as an anti-aging agent in various cosmetic products (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9; J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2010;9:218-25). Synthetic kinetin is thought to have the capacity to neutralize free radicals as well as limit the damage to DNA and fibroblasts (Photochem. Photobiol. 2012;88:748-52).

In vitro results

Olsen et al. demonstrated in vitro in 1999 that kinetin dose-dependently protected DNA against oxidative damage mediated by the Fenton reaction, and noted that kinetin had previously been linked to anti-aging activity in plants, fruit flies, and human cells in culture (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 1999;265:499-502). The following year, Verbeke et al. showed in vitro that kinetin potently inhibited damage caused by oxidation and glycoxidation (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 2000;276:1265-70).

In 2006, Vicanova et al. analyzed the effects of active ingredients from topical and systemic skin care formulations in vitro, finding that kinetin affected the upper dermis by enhancing deposits of fibrillin-1 and elastin fibers as well as their organization perpendicular to the dermal-epidermal junction. In the epidermis, kinetin stimulated keratinocyte production. Further, the investigators noted that the combination of topically applied kinetin with Imedeen Time Perfection ingredients (i.e., BioMarine Complex, grape seed extract, tomato extract, and vitamin C) supplemented systemically into culture medium yielded complementary benefits to dermal and epidermal development (Ann. N.Y. Acad. Sci. 2006;1067:337-42).

It is worth noting that in a study by Tournas et al. published the same month, investigators found that the topical application of a combination of vitamins C and E and ferulic acid yielded photoprotection to pig skin at 5 times the minimal erythema dose (MED) while individual antioxidants to which it was compared (i.e., coenzyme Q10, idebenone, and kinetin) delivered no photoprotective effects (J. Invest. Dermatol. 2006;126:1185-7). Nevertheless, Barciszewski et al. have observed that kinetin is the first stable secondary DNA damage product characterized by well defined cytokinin and anti-aging activity, with data showing that it has delayed human cellular aging in culture (Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92).

Rosacea

In 2007, Wu et al. performed a 12-week open-label study in 15 women and 3 men (aged 30-67 years) to ascertain the tolerability and efficacy of kinetin 0.1% lotion in the treatment of mild to moderate facial rosacea. Patients (17 of whom completed the study) applied the lotion twice daily, also daily applying an SPF 30 sunscreen. By week 4, significant improvements were observed in the reduction of skin roughness and mottled hyperpigmentation. Subject assessments at each 4-week interval after baseline and after 12 weeks revealed that kinetin 0.1% was well tolerated and effective for mild to moderate inflammatory rosacea (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2007;32:693-5).

Anti-aging

A 2002 study by J.L. McCullough and G.D. Weinstein represented the first evidence of the efficacy of topical kinetin in human beings, with twice-daily application for 24 weeks found to ameliorate skin texture, color, and blotchiness while diminishing rhytides and transepidermal water loss (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2002;15:29-32).

Two years later, T. Kimura and K. Doi showed that topical administration of kinetin improved the texture, wrinkling, and pigmentation of aged skin of hairless descendants of Mexican hairless dogs, resulting in notable depigmentation and rejuvenation after 100 days of treatment (Rejuvenation Res. 2004;7:32-9).In 2007, Chiu et al. conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative study in 52 Taiwanese subjects aged 30-60 years (90% of whom were female, all of whom had Fitzpatrick skin types II, III, or IV) to evaluate the clinical anti-aging effects and efficacy differences between kinetin plus niacinamide (kinetin 0.03%, niacinamide 4%) and niacinamide 4% alone versus vehicle placebo.

In the combination group, significant and sustained decreases were observed in counts of spots, pores, wrinkles, and evenness as well as persistent reductions in erythema index at weeks 8 and 12. At week 12, stratum corneum hydration status also was significantly enhanced in this group. In the niacinamide-only group, pore and evenness counts were significantly decreased at week 8, with declines in wrinkle counts emerging at week 12. The investigators concluded that kinetin and niacinamide display synergistic and dynamic anti-aging effects, showing substantial potential as topical anti-aging cosmeceutical agents (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9).

However, Levin et al. noted in 2010 that while the effects of kinetin have been established in plants and its antioxidant properties have been displayed in vitro, the anti-aging effects and clinical efficacy ascribed to kinetin have been based on limited evidence, with no studies extant on the percutaneous absorption of kinetin. They added that research elucidating the mechanisms through which kinetin appears to improve skin barrier function, texture, and pigmentation also are lacking (J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol. 2010;3:22-41).

In 2012, Campos et al. assessed the effects on hydration, viscoelastic characteristics, and photoprotection of cosmetic preparations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, alpha-lipoic acid, and kinetin. They observed that the formulation protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV harm. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the combination product was found to have improved moisturization of the stratum corneum, also delivering hydration effects to deeper skin layers. The researchers concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing kinetin shows promise as a cutaneous anti-aging product (Photochem. Photobiol. 2012;88:748-52).

Conclusion

While some experimental and clinical results appear to suggest an anti-aging effect exerted by topically applied kinetin, much more research – particularly randomized controlled and comparison studies – are needed to provide a clearer picture as to the mechanisms and appropriate role of kinetin in the dermatologic armamentarium.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Kinetin (N6-furfuryladenine or 6-furfurylaminopurine) is a plant cytokinin or phytohormone that promotes cell division, delays senescence in plants, and is reputed to aid in the restoration of skin barrier function and, possibly, in reducing the signs and symptoms of rosacea (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2007;32:693-5; Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45).

Kinetin is believed to develop in cellular DNA as a product of the oxidative, secondary modification of DNA (Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45). In 1955, it became the first cytokinin isolated from DNA (from herring sperm) as an artifactual rearrangement product of the autoclaving process (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9; Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92).

It has since been found to be present in human urine as well as DNA freshly extracted from human cells (Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92). The preponderance of amassed experimental evidence suggests that endogenous kinetin acts in vitro and in vivo as a potent antioxidant (Plant Sci. 1999;148:37-45). Currently, it is used as an anti-aging agent in various cosmetic products (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9; J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2010;9:218-25). Synthetic kinetin is thought to have the capacity to neutralize free radicals as well as limit the damage to DNA and fibroblasts (Photochem. Photobiol. 2012;88:748-52).

In vitro results

Olsen et al. demonstrated in vitro in 1999 that kinetin dose-dependently protected DNA against oxidative damage mediated by the Fenton reaction, and noted that kinetin had previously been linked to anti-aging activity in plants, fruit flies, and human cells in culture (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 1999;265:499-502). The following year, Verbeke et al. showed in vitro that kinetin potently inhibited damage caused by oxidation and glycoxidation (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 2000;276:1265-70).

In 2006, Vicanova et al. analyzed the effects of active ingredients from topical and systemic skin care formulations in vitro, finding that kinetin affected the upper dermis by enhancing deposits of fibrillin-1 and elastin fibers as well as their organization perpendicular to the dermal-epidermal junction. In the epidermis, kinetin stimulated keratinocyte production. Further, the investigators noted that the combination of topically applied kinetin with Imedeen Time Perfection ingredients (i.e., BioMarine Complex, grape seed extract, tomato extract, and vitamin C) supplemented systemically into culture medium yielded complementary benefits to dermal and epidermal development (Ann. N.Y. Acad. Sci. 2006;1067:337-42).

It is worth noting that in a study by Tournas et al. published the same month, investigators found that the topical application of a combination of vitamins C and E and ferulic acid yielded photoprotection to pig skin at 5 times the minimal erythema dose (MED) while individual antioxidants to which it was compared (i.e., coenzyme Q10, idebenone, and kinetin) delivered no photoprotective effects (J. Invest. Dermatol. 2006;126:1185-7). Nevertheless, Barciszewski et al. have observed that kinetin is the first stable secondary DNA damage product characterized by well defined cytokinin and anti-aging activity, with data showing that it has delayed human cellular aging in culture (Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2007;40:182-92).

Rosacea

In 2007, Wu et al. performed a 12-week open-label study in 15 women and 3 men (aged 30-67 years) to ascertain the tolerability and efficacy of kinetin 0.1% lotion in the treatment of mild to moderate facial rosacea. Patients (17 of whom completed the study) applied the lotion twice daily, also daily applying an SPF 30 sunscreen. By week 4, significant improvements were observed in the reduction of skin roughness and mottled hyperpigmentation. Subject assessments at each 4-week interval after baseline and after 12 weeks revealed that kinetin 0.1% was well tolerated and effective for mild to moderate inflammatory rosacea (Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 2007;32:693-5).

Anti-aging

A 2002 study by J.L. McCullough and G.D. Weinstein represented the first evidence of the efficacy of topical kinetin in human beings, with twice-daily application for 24 weeks found to ameliorate skin texture, color, and blotchiness while diminishing rhytides and transepidermal water loss (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2002;15:29-32).

Two years later, T. Kimura and K. Doi showed that topical administration of kinetin improved the texture, wrinkling, and pigmentation of aged skin of hairless descendants of Mexican hairless dogs, resulting in notable depigmentation and rejuvenation after 100 days of treatment (Rejuvenation Res. 2004;7:32-9).In 2007, Chiu et al. conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative study in 52 Taiwanese subjects aged 30-60 years (90% of whom were female, all of whom had Fitzpatrick skin types II, III, or IV) to evaluate the clinical anti-aging effects and efficacy differences between kinetin plus niacinamide (kinetin 0.03%, niacinamide 4%) and niacinamide 4% alone versus vehicle placebo.

In the combination group, significant and sustained decreases were observed in counts of spots, pores, wrinkles, and evenness as well as persistent reductions in erythema index at weeks 8 and 12. At week 12, stratum corneum hydration status also was significantly enhanced in this group. In the niacinamide-only group, pore and evenness counts were significantly decreased at week 8, with declines in wrinkle counts emerging at week 12. The investigators concluded that kinetin and niacinamide display synergistic and dynamic anti-aging effects, showing substantial potential as topical anti-aging cosmeceutical agents (J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007;6:243-9).

However, Levin et al. noted in 2010 that while the effects of kinetin have been established in plants and its antioxidant properties have been displayed in vitro, the anti-aging effects and clinical efficacy ascribed to kinetin have been based on limited evidence, with no studies extant on the percutaneous absorption of kinetin. They added that research elucidating the mechanisms through which kinetin appears to improve skin barrier function, texture, and pigmentation also are lacking (J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol. 2010;3:22-41).

In 2012, Campos et al. assessed the effects on hydration, viscoelastic characteristics, and photoprotection of cosmetic preparations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, alpha-lipoic acid, and kinetin. They observed that the formulation protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV harm. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the combination product was found to have improved moisturization of the stratum corneum, also delivering hydration effects to deeper skin layers. The researchers concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing kinetin shows promise as a cutaneous anti-aging product (Photochem. Photobiol. 2012;88:748-52).

Conclusion

While some experimental and clinical results appear to suggest an anti-aging effect exerted by topically applied kinetin, much more research – particularly randomized controlled and comparison studies – are needed to provide a clearer picture as to the mechanisms and appropriate role of kinetin in the dermatologic armamentarium.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Kaempferol (3,5,7,4’-tetrahydroxyflavone; C₁₅H₁₀O₆) is among the natural flavonols found in green tea, broccoli, cabbage, kale, endive, beans, leeks, tomatoes, grapes, apples, grapefruit, berries, and propolis, as well as myriad other plant sources, including Brassica and species (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2006;54:2951-6; Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67; Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9; Chem. Pharm. Bull. (Tokyo) 2012;60:1171-5; J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2013 June 27 [doi:10.1111/jdv.12204]).

It is one of the most commonly found dietary flavonoids and is also present in beer, particularly hops (Carcinogenesis 2010;31:1338-43; J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2013 June 27 [doi:10.1111/jdv.12204]). Significantly, kaempferol is known to exhibit anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, cytoprotective, and antiapoptotic activity (Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67; Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9; Exp. Mol. Med. 2008;40:208-19), and is believed to play a role in protecting plants from ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2012;60:6966-76).

Skin protection: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity

Among 35 flavonoids tested by Cos et al. in 2001 for lipid peroxidation-inhibiting activity, kaempferol was identified as having the highest antioxidant selectivity index (Planta Med. 2001;67:515-9).

Work by Kim et al. in 2002 revealed that four kaempferol glycosides are key active ingredients in the flowers of Prunus persica, which has long been used in traditional Chinese medicine to treat skin disorders (J. Cosmet. Sci. 2002;53:27-34). Kim and colleagues have also shown in animal studies that the topical application of P. persica may be effective at thwarting UVB-induced skin damage (J. Cosmet. Sci. 2002;53:27-34).

In addition, kaempferol is a key component in Punica granatum, which has been found to act as an effective protector against UVB-induced photodamage and aging in cultured skin fibroblasts (Int. J. Dermatol. 2010;49:276-82).

In various tests on the effects of natural flavonoids on matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 activity and expression, Lim et al. reported in 2007 that kaempferol and quercetin potently inhibited recombinant human MMP-1, and both flavonols along with apigenin and wogonin were found to be strong inhibitors of MMP-1 induction in 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate–treated human dermal fibroblasts. All four flavonoids also suppressed the activation of activator protein (AP)-1. Kaempferol also hindered p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) activation. The investigators concluded that kaempferol is among the flavonoids or plant extracts containing them that may be useful as an agent to protect against photoaging and to treat some cutaneous inflammatory conditions (Planta Med. 2007;73:1267-74).

In 2010, Park et al. demonstrated that kaempferol alleviated burn injuries in mice and that expression of tumor necrosis factor–alpha (TNF-alpha) induced by burn injuries was reduced by kaempferol. They concluded that their findings suggest the possible application of kaempferol to treat thermal burn–induced skin injuries (BMB Rep. 2010;43:46-51).

Anti-inflammatory as well as depigmenting activity was found by Rho et al. in 2011 to be associated with kaempferol and kaempferol rhamnosides isolated from Hibiscus cannabinus (Molecules 2011;16:3338-44).

In 2014, Kim et al. found that extracts of Aceriphyllum rossii (native to Korea and China) and its active constituents, quercetin and kaempferol, blocked secretion of beta-hexosaminidase and histamine; lowered the production and mRNA expression of interleukin-4 and TNF-alpha; and reduced prostaglandin E₂ and leukotriene B₄ synthesis as well as the expression of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and 5-lipoxygenase. These and other findings led the investigators to conclude that A. rossii and its active ingredients kaempferol and quercetin may be effective agents for the treatment of immediate-type hypersensitivity (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2014;62:3750-8).

Anticancer activity

Lee et al. reported in 2010 that the inhibition by kaempferol of phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K) activity, a key factor in carcinogenesis, and its concomitant effects may account for the chemopreventive activity of the flavonol (Carcinogenesis 2010;31:1338-43).

At the end of that year, Lee et al. found that kaempferol inhibited UVB-induced COX-2 protein expression in mouse skin epidermal JB6 P+ cells, by blocking Src kinase activity and attenuated the UVB-induced transcriptional activities of COX-2 gene and the transcription factor AP-1. They concluded that kaempferol exerts robust chemopreventive activity against skin cancer by suppressing Src (Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9).

In 2014, Yao et al. found that kaempferol acted as a safe and potent inhibitor of solar ultraviolet-induced mouse skin carcinogenesis that acted by targeting RSK2 and MSK1 (Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67).

Significantly, in terms of topical delivery, Chao et al. recently showed that submicron emulsions are effective carriers for the transdermal delivery of kaempferol (Chem. Pharm. Bull. (Tokyo) 2012;60:1171-5).

Conclusion

Kaempferol is one among the many natural flavonols found to exert significant salutary effects. Evidence suggests reasons for confidence that kaempferol can play a role in skin health. More research is necessary to determine the effectiveness of topical products intended to harness the benefits of this flavonoid as proper formulation is challenging.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Kaempferol (3,5,7,4’-tetrahydroxyflavone; C₁₅H₁₀O₆) is among the natural flavonols found in green tea, broccoli, cabbage, kale, endive, beans, leeks, tomatoes, grapes, apples, grapefruit, berries, and propolis, as well as myriad other plant sources, including Brassica and species (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2006;54:2951-6; Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67; Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9; Chem. Pharm. Bull. (Tokyo) 2012;60:1171-5; J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2013 June 27 [doi:10.1111/jdv.12204]).

It is one of the most commonly found dietary flavonoids and is also present in beer, particularly hops (Carcinogenesis 2010;31:1338-43; J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2013 June 27 [doi:10.1111/jdv.12204]). Significantly, kaempferol is known to exhibit anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, cytoprotective, and antiapoptotic activity (Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67; Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9; Exp. Mol. Med. 2008;40:208-19), and is believed to play a role in protecting plants from ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2012;60:6966-76).

Skin protection: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity

Among 35 flavonoids tested by Cos et al. in 2001 for lipid peroxidation-inhibiting activity, kaempferol was identified as having the highest antioxidant selectivity index (Planta Med. 2001;67:515-9).

Work by Kim et al. in 2002 revealed that four kaempferol glycosides are key active ingredients in the flowers of Prunus persica, which has long been used in traditional Chinese medicine to treat skin disorders (J. Cosmet. Sci. 2002;53:27-34). Kim and colleagues have also shown in animal studies that the topical application of P. persica may be effective at thwarting UVB-induced skin damage (J. Cosmet. Sci. 2002;53:27-34).

In addition, kaempferol is a key component in Punica granatum, which has been found to act as an effective protector against UVB-induced photodamage and aging in cultured skin fibroblasts (Int. J. Dermatol. 2010;49:276-82).

In various tests on the effects of natural flavonoids on matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 activity and expression, Lim et al. reported in 2007 that kaempferol and quercetin potently inhibited recombinant human MMP-1, and both flavonols along with apigenin and wogonin were found to be strong inhibitors of MMP-1 induction in 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate–treated human dermal fibroblasts. All four flavonoids also suppressed the activation of activator protein (AP)-1. Kaempferol also hindered p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) activation. The investigators concluded that kaempferol is among the flavonoids or plant extracts containing them that may be useful as an agent to protect against photoaging and to treat some cutaneous inflammatory conditions (Planta Med. 2007;73:1267-74).

In 2010, Park et al. demonstrated that kaempferol alleviated burn injuries in mice and that expression of tumor necrosis factor–alpha (TNF-alpha) induced by burn injuries was reduced by kaempferol. They concluded that their findings suggest the possible application of kaempferol to treat thermal burn–induced skin injuries (BMB Rep. 2010;43:46-51).

Anti-inflammatory as well as depigmenting activity was found by Rho et al. in 2011 to be associated with kaempferol and kaempferol rhamnosides isolated from Hibiscus cannabinus (Molecules 2011;16:3338-44).

In 2014, Kim et al. found that extracts of Aceriphyllum rossii (native to Korea and China) and its active constituents, quercetin and kaempferol, blocked secretion of beta-hexosaminidase and histamine; lowered the production and mRNA expression of interleukin-4 and TNF-alpha; and reduced prostaglandin E₂ and leukotriene B₄ synthesis as well as the expression of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and 5-lipoxygenase. These and other findings led the investigators to conclude that A. rossii and its active ingredients kaempferol and quercetin may be effective agents for the treatment of immediate-type hypersensitivity (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2014;62:3750-8).

Anticancer activity

Lee et al. reported in 2010 that the inhibition by kaempferol of phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K) activity, a key factor in carcinogenesis, and its concomitant effects may account for the chemopreventive activity of the flavonol (Carcinogenesis 2010;31:1338-43).

At the end of that year, Lee et al. found that kaempferol inhibited UVB-induced COX-2 protein expression in mouse skin epidermal JB6 P+ cells, by blocking Src kinase activity and attenuated the UVB-induced transcriptional activities of COX-2 gene and the transcription factor AP-1. They concluded that kaempferol exerts robust chemopreventive activity against skin cancer by suppressing Src (Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9).

In 2014, Yao et al. found that kaempferol acted as a safe and potent inhibitor of solar ultraviolet-induced mouse skin carcinogenesis that acted by targeting RSK2 and MSK1 (Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67).

Significantly, in terms of topical delivery, Chao et al. recently showed that submicron emulsions are effective carriers for the transdermal delivery of kaempferol (Chem. Pharm. Bull. (Tokyo) 2012;60:1171-5).

Conclusion

Kaempferol is one among the many natural flavonols found to exert significant salutary effects. Evidence suggests reasons for confidence that kaempferol can play a role in skin health. More research is necessary to determine the effectiveness of topical products intended to harness the benefits of this flavonoid as proper formulation is challenging.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Kaempferol (3,5,7,4’-tetrahydroxyflavone; C₁₅H₁₀O₆) is among the natural flavonols found in green tea, broccoli, cabbage, kale, endive, beans, leeks, tomatoes, grapes, apples, grapefruit, berries, and propolis, as well as myriad other plant sources, including Brassica and species (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2006;54:2951-6; Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67; Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9; Chem. Pharm. Bull. (Tokyo) 2012;60:1171-5; J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2013 June 27 [doi:10.1111/jdv.12204]).

It is one of the most commonly found dietary flavonoids and is also present in beer, particularly hops (Carcinogenesis 2010;31:1338-43; J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2013 June 27 [doi:10.1111/jdv.12204]). Significantly, kaempferol is known to exhibit anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, cytoprotective, and antiapoptotic activity (Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67; Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9; Exp. Mol. Med. 2008;40:208-19), and is believed to play a role in protecting plants from ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2012;60:6966-76).

Skin protection: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity

Among 35 flavonoids tested by Cos et al. in 2001 for lipid peroxidation-inhibiting activity, kaempferol was identified as having the highest antioxidant selectivity index (Planta Med. 2001;67:515-9).

Work by Kim et al. in 2002 revealed that four kaempferol glycosides are key active ingredients in the flowers of Prunus persica, which has long been used in traditional Chinese medicine to treat skin disorders (J. Cosmet. Sci. 2002;53:27-34). Kim and colleagues have also shown in animal studies that the topical application of P. persica may be effective at thwarting UVB-induced skin damage (J. Cosmet. Sci. 2002;53:27-34).

In addition, kaempferol is a key component in Punica granatum, which has been found to act as an effective protector against UVB-induced photodamage and aging in cultured skin fibroblasts (Int. J. Dermatol. 2010;49:276-82).

In various tests on the effects of natural flavonoids on matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 activity and expression, Lim et al. reported in 2007 that kaempferol and quercetin potently inhibited recombinant human MMP-1, and both flavonols along with apigenin and wogonin were found to be strong inhibitors of MMP-1 induction in 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate–treated human dermal fibroblasts. All four flavonoids also suppressed the activation of activator protein (AP)-1. Kaempferol also hindered p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) activation. The investigators concluded that kaempferol is among the flavonoids or plant extracts containing them that may be useful as an agent to protect against photoaging and to treat some cutaneous inflammatory conditions (Planta Med. 2007;73:1267-74).

In 2010, Park et al. demonstrated that kaempferol alleviated burn injuries in mice and that expression of tumor necrosis factor–alpha (TNF-alpha) induced by burn injuries was reduced by kaempferol. They concluded that their findings suggest the possible application of kaempferol to treat thermal burn–induced skin injuries (BMB Rep. 2010;43:46-51).

Anti-inflammatory as well as depigmenting activity was found by Rho et al. in 2011 to be associated with kaempferol and kaempferol rhamnosides isolated from Hibiscus cannabinus (Molecules 2011;16:3338-44).

In 2014, Kim et al. found that extracts of Aceriphyllum rossii (native to Korea and China) and its active constituents, quercetin and kaempferol, blocked secretion of beta-hexosaminidase and histamine; lowered the production and mRNA expression of interleukin-4 and TNF-alpha; and reduced prostaglandin E₂ and leukotriene B₄ synthesis as well as the expression of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and 5-lipoxygenase. These and other findings led the investigators to conclude that A. rossii and its active ingredients kaempferol and quercetin may be effective agents for the treatment of immediate-type hypersensitivity (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2014;62:3750-8).

Anticancer activity

Lee et al. reported in 2010 that the inhibition by kaempferol of phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K) activity, a key factor in carcinogenesis, and its concomitant effects may account for the chemopreventive activity of the flavonol (Carcinogenesis 2010;31:1338-43).

At the end of that year, Lee et al. found that kaempferol inhibited UVB-induced COX-2 protein expression in mouse skin epidermal JB6 P+ cells, by blocking Src kinase activity and attenuated the UVB-induced transcriptional activities of COX-2 gene and the transcription factor AP-1. They concluded that kaempferol exerts robust chemopreventive activity against skin cancer by suppressing Src (Biochem. Pharmacol. 2010;80:2042-9).

In 2014, Yao et al. found that kaempferol acted as a safe and potent inhibitor of solar ultraviolet-induced mouse skin carcinogenesis that acted by targeting RSK2 and MSK1 (Cancer Prev. Res. (Phila) 2014;7:958-67).

Significantly, in terms of topical delivery, Chao et al. recently showed that submicron emulsions are effective carriers for the transdermal delivery of kaempferol (Chem. Pharm. Bull. (Tokyo) 2012;60:1171-5).

Conclusion

Kaempferol is one among the many natural flavonols found to exert significant salutary effects. Evidence suggests reasons for confidence that kaempferol can play a role in skin health. More research is necessary to determine the effectiveness of topical products intended to harness the benefits of this flavonoid as proper formulation is challenging.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Mangifera indica (mango) is a member of the Anacardiaceae family with a tradition of use as a medicinal plant. Mango extracts have been characterized as exhibiting antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and immunomodulatory activities (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9; Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8). Mango is grown in more than 100 countries, primarily in Asia, in tropical as well as subtropical regions (Molecules 2014;19:17107-29). Mango stem bark and leaves have been used in traditional medicine to treat anemia, cutaneous infections, diabetes, diarrhea, scabies, syphilis, and malignant tumors (Pharmacol. Res. 2007;55:351-8). Polyphenols and carotenoids are among the phytonutrients identified as responsible for the biologic activity of mango (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9).

Courtesy Wikimedia Commons/Roei.tabak /Creative Commons License

Various biologic activities and traditional uses

Ojewole investigated the anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antidiabetic activity of M. indica stem bark aqueous extract in rats and mice in 2005. In mice, mango extract dose-dependently delivered significant analgesic effects against thermally and chemically-generated pain. The investigators attributed the observed salutary effects of the plant to its constituent polyphenolics, flavonoids, triterpenoids, and mangiferin. They also noted that their findings support the folkloric uses of the plant for treating arthritic and other inflammatory conditions, as well as type 2 diabetes (Methods Find. Exp. Clin. Pharmacol. 2005;27:547-54).

Another important constituent of mango (also found in olive, strawberry, fig, and various medicinal herbs) is the triterpene lupeol, which has been characterized as exhibiting potent antioxidant, antimutagenic, anti-inflammatory, and antiarthritic activity (Oncogene 2004;23:5203-14). A 2014 study by Sahu et al. also showed that M. indica leaves display some antityrosinase activity, though not as strongly as other medicinal plants, such as Emblica officinalis (Pak. J. Biol. Sci. 2014;17:146-50).

Anticancer, antioxidant, and antiphotoaging activity

In 2004, Saleem et al. demonstrated that topically applied lupeol exhibited anti–tumor-promoting effects in a CD-1 mouse skin tumorigenesis model. Pretreatment with the mango constituent time- and dose-dependently inhibited multiple 12-O-tetradecanoyl-phorbol-13-acetate (TPA)-mediated increases in edema, hyperplasia, epidermal ornithine decarboxylase (ODC) activity, as well as protein expression of ODC, cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) and nitric oxide synthase. Pretreated animals also experienced significantly lower tumor incidence and tumor body burden as well as a significant delay in tumor latency period. The researchers concluded that lupeol exerts anti–skin tumor promoting effects on CD-1 mice (Oncogene 2004;23:5203-14).

Three years later, Núñez-Sellés et al. reported that a mango stem bark extract (Vimang) developed in Cuba exhibited antioxidant, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulating activity in basic, preclinical, and clinical studies (Pharmacol. Res. 2007;55:351-8).

A 2009 toxicological analysis of Vimang, which has been formulated into tablets, creams, capsules, syrup, vaginal oval, and suppositories for various applications, revealed via irritant tests conducted on rabbits that the topical formulation was not irritating to the skin, generally, with minimal irritancy noted after vaginal application. No adverse effects were reported (Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8).

In 2012, Li et al. discovered norathyriol (1,3,6,7-tetrahydroxy-9H-xanthen-9-one), a plant-derived chemopreventive metabolite of mangiferin, found in mango, Hypericum elegans, and Tripterospermum lanceolatum. They found that norathyriol significantly inhibited solar UV-induced skin carcinogenesis in mouse models. In vitro investigations revealed that the compound suppressed cell growth in mouse skin epidermal JB6 P+ cells at the level of G2-M phase arrest. The investigators concluded that this newly identified substance appears to act as a safe chemopreventive agent against UV-induced skin cancer (Cancer Res. 2012;72:260-70).

A year later, Song et al. assessed the protective effects of orally administered mango extract against UVB-induced cutaneous aging in HR-1 hairless male mice. The animals were divided into control, UVB-treated vehicle, and UVB-treated mango extract groups. The researchers found that mango extract significantly suppressed the increase in epidermal thickness and hypertrophy indicative of UVB treatment, with mean length of wrinkles significantly lower in the mango group compared with the UVB-treated vehicle group. Treatment with mango extract also led to a significant increase in collagen bundles in animals treated with UVB. The authors concluded that mango extract displayed antiphotoaging properties in hairless mice exposed to UVB (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9).

Further, a 2014 in vitro study revealed that extracts of Helicanthus elastica growing on M. indica exhibited antioxidant activity. H. elastica is a hemiparasite that often grows on mango trees in India and is known to be a rich source of phenolic substances (J. Tradit. Complement. Med. 2014;4:285-8).

Topical delivery

Mandawgade and Patravale developed a mango butter skin care formulation in 2008 that was used to test skin repair in rat excision and incision wound models. A healing response was noted in both animal models. The formulation also was found to be effective in achieving complete repair of worn and cracked skin on the feet of all human volunteers in the study. The investigators concluded that the mango butter preparation delivers superlative emolliency and warrants consideration as an excipient agent in cosmeceutical products (Indian J. Pharm. Sci. 2008;70:539-42).

It is worth noting that cases of “mango dermatitis” (allergic contact dermatitis to the sap or skin of M. indica), manifesting in urticaria and eczematous rashes, have been reported (Australas. J. Dermatol. 1996;37:59-60; Int. J. Dermatol. 2004;43:195-6).

In 2014, Leanpolchareanchai et al. developed a microemulsion system containing Thai mango seed kernel extract that displayed strong skin enhancement results in ex vivo skin permeation studies (penetrating skin layers up to 60-fold higher than controls) and physicochemical stability over 6 months (Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8). Thai mango seed kernel extract had previously been shown to exhibit anti–methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus and antityrosinase characteristics, as well as strong free radical scavenging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hepatoprotective activities.(Molecules 2014;19:17107-29).

Conclusion

Evidence on the cutaneous applications of mango is emerging, but does not have a significant track record. That said, this fruit has long been used in traditional medicine for a range of indications, including skin disorders. Much more research is necessary, however, to ascertain how beneficial this fruit and its extracts may be. At the very least, there are few reports of adverse events associated with topical application.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Mangifera indica (mango) is a member of the Anacardiaceae family with a tradition of use as a medicinal plant. Mango extracts have been characterized as exhibiting antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and immunomodulatory activities (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9; Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8). Mango is grown in more than 100 countries, primarily in Asia, in tropical as well as subtropical regions (Molecules 2014;19:17107-29). Mango stem bark and leaves have been used in traditional medicine to treat anemia, cutaneous infections, diabetes, diarrhea, scabies, syphilis, and malignant tumors (Pharmacol. Res. 2007;55:351-8). Polyphenols and carotenoids are among the phytonutrients identified as responsible for the biologic activity of mango (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9).

Courtesy Wikimedia Commons/Roei.tabak /Creative Commons License

Various biologic activities and traditional uses

Ojewole investigated the anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antidiabetic activity of M. indica stem bark aqueous extract in rats and mice in 2005. In mice, mango extract dose-dependently delivered significant analgesic effects against thermally and chemically-generated pain. The investigators attributed the observed salutary effects of the plant to its constituent polyphenolics, flavonoids, triterpenoids, and mangiferin. They also noted that their findings support the folkloric uses of the plant for treating arthritic and other inflammatory conditions, as well as type 2 diabetes (Methods Find. Exp. Clin. Pharmacol. 2005;27:547-54).

Another important constituent of mango (also found in olive, strawberry, fig, and various medicinal herbs) is the triterpene lupeol, which has been characterized as exhibiting potent antioxidant, antimutagenic, anti-inflammatory, and antiarthritic activity (Oncogene 2004;23:5203-14). A 2014 study by Sahu et al. also showed that M. indica leaves display some antityrosinase activity, though not as strongly as other medicinal plants, such as Emblica officinalis (Pak. J. Biol. Sci. 2014;17:146-50).

Anticancer, antioxidant, and antiphotoaging activity

In 2004, Saleem et al. demonstrated that topically applied lupeol exhibited anti–tumor-promoting effects in a CD-1 mouse skin tumorigenesis model. Pretreatment with the mango constituent time- and dose-dependently inhibited multiple 12-O-tetradecanoyl-phorbol-13-acetate (TPA)-mediated increases in edema, hyperplasia, epidermal ornithine decarboxylase (ODC) activity, as well as protein expression of ODC, cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) and nitric oxide synthase. Pretreated animals also experienced significantly lower tumor incidence and tumor body burden as well as a significant delay in tumor latency period. The researchers concluded that lupeol exerts anti–skin tumor promoting effects on CD-1 mice (Oncogene 2004;23:5203-14).

Three years later, Núñez-Sellés et al. reported that a mango stem bark extract (Vimang) developed in Cuba exhibited antioxidant, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulating activity in basic, preclinical, and clinical studies (Pharmacol. Res. 2007;55:351-8).

A 2009 toxicological analysis of Vimang, which has been formulated into tablets, creams, capsules, syrup, vaginal oval, and suppositories for various applications, revealed via irritant tests conducted on rabbits that the topical formulation was not irritating to the skin, generally, with minimal irritancy noted after vaginal application. No adverse effects were reported (Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8).

In 2012, Li et al. discovered norathyriol (1,3,6,7-tetrahydroxy-9H-xanthen-9-one), a plant-derived chemopreventive metabolite of mangiferin, found in mango, Hypericum elegans, and Tripterospermum lanceolatum. They found that norathyriol significantly inhibited solar UV-induced skin carcinogenesis in mouse models. In vitro investigations revealed that the compound suppressed cell growth in mouse skin epidermal JB6 P+ cells at the level of G2-M phase arrest. The investigators concluded that this newly identified substance appears to act as a safe chemopreventive agent against UV-induced skin cancer (Cancer Res. 2012;72:260-70).

A year later, Song et al. assessed the protective effects of orally administered mango extract against UVB-induced cutaneous aging in HR-1 hairless male mice. The animals were divided into control, UVB-treated vehicle, and UVB-treated mango extract groups. The researchers found that mango extract significantly suppressed the increase in epidermal thickness and hypertrophy indicative of UVB treatment, with mean length of wrinkles significantly lower in the mango group compared with the UVB-treated vehicle group. Treatment with mango extract also led to a significant increase in collagen bundles in animals treated with UVB. The authors concluded that mango extract displayed antiphotoaging properties in hairless mice exposed to UVB (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9).

Further, a 2014 in vitro study revealed that extracts of Helicanthus elastica growing on M. indica exhibited antioxidant activity. H. elastica is a hemiparasite that often grows on mango trees in India and is known to be a rich source of phenolic substances (J. Tradit. Complement. Med. 2014;4:285-8).

Topical delivery

Mandawgade and Patravale developed a mango butter skin care formulation in 2008 that was used to test skin repair in rat excision and incision wound models. A healing response was noted in both animal models. The formulation also was found to be effective in achieving complete repair of worn and cracked skin on the feet of all human volunteers in the study. The investigators concluded that the mango butter preparation delivers superlative emolliency and warrants consideration as an excipient agent in cosmeceutical products (Indian J. Pharm. Sci. 2008;70:539-42).

It is worth noting that cases of “mango dermatitis” (allergic contact dermatitis to the sap or skin of M. indica), manifesting in urticaria and eczematous rashes, have been reported (Australas. J. Dermatol. 1996;37:59-60; Int. J. Dermatol. 2004;43:195-6).

In 2014, Leanpolchareanchai et al. developed a microemulsion system containing Thai mango seed kernel extract that displayed strong skin enhancement results in ex vivo skin permeation studies (penetrating skin layers up to 60-fold higher than controls) and physicochemical stability over 6 months (Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8). Thai mango seed kernel extract had previously been shown to exhibit anti–methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus and antityrosinase characteristics, as well as strong free radical scavenging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hepatoprotective activities.(Molecules 2014;19:17107-29).

Conclusion

Evidence on the cutaneous applications of mango is emerging, but does not have a significant track record. That said, this fruit has long been used in traditional medicine for a range of indications, including skin disorders. Much more research is necessary, however, to ascertain how beneficial this fruit and its extracts may be. At the very least, there are few reports of adverse events associated with topical application.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Mangifera indica (mango) is a member of the Anacardiaceae family with a tradition of use as a medicinal plant. Mango extracts have been characterized as exhibiting antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and immunomodulatory activities (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9; Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8). Mango is grown in more than 100 countries, primarily in Asia, in tropical as well as subtropical regions (Molecules 2014;19:17107-29). Mango stem bark and leaves have been used in traditional medicine to treat anemia, cutaneous infections, diabetes, diarrhea, scabies, syphilis, and malignant tumors (Pharmacol. Res. 2007;55:351-8). Polyphenols and carotenoids are among the phytonutrients identified as responsible for the biologic activity of mango (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9).

Courtesy Wikimedia Commons/Roei.tabak /Creative Commons License

Various biologic activities and traditional uses

Ojewole investigated the anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antidiabetic activity of M. indica stem bark aqueous extract in rats and mice in 2005. In mice, mango extract dose-dependently delivered significant analgesic effects against thermally and chemically-generated pain. The investigators attributed the observed salutary effects of the plant to its constituent polyphenolics, flavonoids, triterpenoids, and mangiferin. They also noted that their findings support the folkloric uses of the plant for treating arthritic and other inflammatory conditions, as well as type 2 diabetes (Methods Find. Exp. Clin. Pharmacol. 2005;27:547-54).

Another important constituent of mango (also found in olive, strawberry, fig, and various medicinal herbs) is the triterpene lupeol, which has been characterized as exhibiting potent antioxidant, antimutagenic, anti-inflammatory, and antiarthritic activity (Oncogene 2004;23:5203-14). A 2014 study by Sahu et al. also showed that M. indica leaves display some antityrosinase activity, though not as strongly as other medicinal plants, such as Emblica officinalis (Pak. J. Biol. Sci. 2014;17:146-50).

Anticancer, antioxidant, and antiphotoaging activity

In 2004, Saleem et al. demonstrated that topically applied lupeol exhibited anti–tumor-promoting effects in a CD-1 mouse skin tumorigenesis model. Pretreatment with the mango constituent time- and dose-dependently inhibited multiple 12-O-tetradecanoyl-phorbol-13-acetate (TPA)-mediated increases in edema, hyperplasia, epidermal ornithine decarboxylase (ODC) activity, as well as protein expression of ODC, cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) and nitric oxide synthase. Pretreated animals also experienced significantly lower tumor incidence and tumor body burden as well as a significant delay in tumor latency period. The researchers concluded that lupeol exerts anti–skin tumor promoting effects on CD-1 mice (Oncogene 2004;23:5203-14).

Three years later, Núñez-Sellés et al. reported that a mango stem bark extract (Vimang) developed in Cuba exhibited antioxidant, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulating activity in basic, preclinical, and clinical studies (Pharmacol. Res. 2007;55:351-8).

A 2009 toxicological analysis of Vimang, which has been formulated into tablets, creams, capsules, syrup, vaginal oval, and suppositories for various applications, revealed via irritant tests conducted on rabbits that the topical formulation was not irritating to the skin, generally, with minimal irritancy noted after vaginal application. No adverse effects were reported (Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8).

In 2012, Li et al. discovered norathyriol (1,3,6,7-tetrahydroxy-9H-xanthen-9-one), a plant-derived chemopreventive metabolite of mangiferin, found in mango, Hypericum elegans, and Tripterospermum lanceolatum. They found that norathyriol significantly inhibited solar UV-induced skin carcinogenesis in mouse models. In vitro investigations revealed that the compound suppressed cell growth in mouse skin epidermal JB6 P+ cells at the level of G2-M phase arrest. The investigators concluded that this newly identified substance appears to act as a safe chemopreventive agent against UV-induced skin cancer (Cancer Res. 2012;72:260-70).

A year later, Song et al. assessed the protective effects of orally administered mango extract against UVB-induced cutaneous aging in HR-1 hairless male mice. The animals were divided into control, UVB-treated vehicle, and UVB-treated mango extract groups. The researchers found that mango extract significantly suppressed the increase in epidermal thickness and hypertrophy indicative of UVB treatment, with mean length of wrinkles significantly lower in the mango group compared with the UVB-treated vehicle group. Treatment with mango extract also led to a significant increase in collagen bundles in animals treated with UVB. The authors concluded that mango extract displayed antiphotoaging properties in hairless mice exposed to UVB (Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 2013;29:84-9).

Further, a 2014 in vitro study revealed that extracts of Helicanthus elastica growing on M. indica exhibited antioxidant activity. H. elastica is a hemiparasite that often grows on mango trees in India and is known to be a rich source of phenolic substances (J. Tradit. Complement. Med. 2014;4:285-8).

Topical delivery

Mandawgade and Patravale developed a mango butter skin care formulation in 2008 that was used to test skin repair in rat excision and incision wound models. A healing response was noted in both animal models. The formulation also was found to be effective in achieving complete repair of worn and cracked skin on the feet of all human volunteers in the study. The investigators concluded that the mango butter preparation delivers superlative emolliency and warrants consideration as an excipient agent in cosmeceutical products (Indian J. Pharm. Sci. 2008;70:539-42).

It is worth noting that cases of “mango dermatitis” (allergic contact dermatitis to the sap or skin of M. indica), manifesting in urticaria and eczematous rashes, have been reported (Australas. J. Dermatol. 1996;37:59-60; Int. J. Dermatol. 2004;43:195-6).

In 2014, Leanpolchareanchai et al. developed a microemulsion system containing Thai mango seed kernel extract that displayed strong skin enhancement results in ex vivo skin permeation studies (penetrating skin layers up to 60-fold higher than controls) and physicochemical stability over 6 months (Drug Chem. Toxicol. 2009;32:53-8). Thai mango seed kernel extract had previously been shown to exhibit anti–methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus and antityrosinase characteristics, as well as strong free radical scavenging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hepatoprotective activities.(Molecules 2014;19:17107-29).

Conclusion

Evidence on the cutaneous applications of mango is emerging, but does not have a significant track record. That said, this fruit has long been used in traditional medicine for a range of indications, including skin disorders. Much more research is necessary, however, to ascertain how beneficial this fruit and its extracts may be. At the very least, there are few reports of adverse events associated with topical application.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Alpinia officinarum (and its close relative Alpinia galanga), a member of the Zingiberaceae family (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5), has long been used in Chinese medicinals (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53). Specifically, the plant is used in traditional Chinese medicine as an aphrodisiac, abortifacient, carminative, antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, and emmenagogue as well as to treat disorders of the heart and kidneys, bronchitis, chronic enteritis, renal calculus, diabetes, and rheumatism (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5; Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53). Stomach ailments are the most typical application of the herb in traditional Chinese and Thai medicine; it is also used in Ayurveda and Sidda medicine. A. officinarum is widely cultivated throughout Asia, including China, Thailand, India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and Indonesia, as well as the Middle East and Northern Africa (Saudi Arabia and Egypt, respectively) (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5).

The flavonoid galangin (3,5,7-trihydroxyflavone) is the primary active constituent of A. officinarum (Phytother. Res. 2014;28:1533-8; J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61). In vitro, it has demonstrated a cytotoxic effect on multiple cancer cell lines (J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114[1]:152-61). Traditional Uighur medicine in China has incorporated galangin for the treatment of vitiligo (Phytother. Res. 2014;28:1533-8). Overall, A. officinarum rhizomes have been associated with antiemetic, antigenotoxic, antimutagenic, and antioxidant activity, as well as inhibitory effects on prostaglandin and leukotriene biosynthesis, and modulatory effects on cytochrome P450 enzymes (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53; J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61). The rhizomes of A. officinarum have been used externally to treat skin infections, gum diseases, and skin cancer (J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

Constituents

The rhizomes of the plant, commonly referred to as galangal, contain several key active constituents, including essential oils, tannins, neolignans, phenol, glycosides, monoterpenes, diarylheptanoids, phenylpropanoids, carbohydrates, gallic acid glycoside, galangoisoflavonoid, beta-sitosterol, galangin, alpinin, zerumbone, and kampferide (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5; Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53; J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

In 2009, Matsuda et al. reported that the 80% aqueous acetone extract of the rhizomes of A. officinarum suppressed melanogenesis in theophylline-stimulated murine B16 melanoma 4A5 cells. They found that several isolated constituents had significant IC50 values (10-48 mcm) for inhibiting melanogenesis, including four diarylheptanoids (5-hydroxy-1,7-diphenyl-3-heptanone, 7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenylhept-4-en-3-one, 5-hydroxy-7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenyl-3-heptanone, and 3,5-dihydroxy-1,7-diphenylheptane) and two flavonol constituents (kaempferide and galangin). The mRNA expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related proteins-1 and -2 was also hindered by 7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenylhept-4-en-3-one, kaempferide, and galangin, as was the protein level of a microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, the authors noted (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53).

Biologic activity

Penetration enhancement: In 2000, Shen et al. found that volatile oils from galangal, among other herbs, were effective in enhancing the skin permeation of 5-fluorouracil and notably more effective than azone (Zhong Yao Cai 2000;23:697-9).

Anti-inflammatory effects: In 2008, Yasukawa et al. examined the inhibitory effect of galangal in a two-stage in vivo carcinogenesis model in mice. They observed that the A. officinarum rhizomes displayed significant antitumor-promoting activity against 7,12-dimethylbenz[a]anthracene (DMBA)-initiated and 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate (TPA)–promoted lesions. Seven diarylheptanoids isolated from the active fraction of the methanol extracts demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory effects against TPA-induced inflammation (J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

Cancer prevention and pigmentary effects: Heo et al. reported in 2001 that in vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated that the flavonoid galangin, found in high concentrations in A. officinarum, as well as the bee product propolis, exhibits significant antioxidant activity and can influence enzyme activities and inhibit genotoxicity without introducing a pro-oxidant effect. They concluded that galangin warrants consideration for its potential as a chemical cancer-preventing agent (Mutat. Res. 2001;488:135-50).

In 2007, Lu et al. investigated the whitening effects of the flavonoid components of A. officinarum on melanin biosynthesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells, tyrosinase inhibition, and UV absorption. They found that galangin and the flavonoid mixture both decreased melanin content more than controls and also lowered melanin production, with galangin more effective than the flavonoid mixture. In addition, galangin and the flavonoid mixture exerted greater tyrosinase inhibition at lower concentrations. The A. officinarum constituents also displayed a broad absorption band in the UVB area (270 to 290 nm). The researchers concluded that galangin may be a viable whitening agent with the potential to prevent skin cancer (J. Enzyme Inhib. Med. Chem. 2007;22:433-8).

Six years later, Zhang et al. noted that various doses of galangin resulted in the inhibition of B16F10 melanoma cell proliferation. The investigators also showed that galangin achieved an antimetastatic effect in vivo in C57BL/6J mice, reducing focal adhesion kinase. They concluded that focal adhesion kinase is a viable target in melanoma therapy, with B16F10 melanoma metastasis apparently checked by galangin in mice and in cell cultures (J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61).

In 2014, Huo et al. tested galangin in a mouse model of vitiligo induced in C57BL/6 mice through the daily topical application of hydroquinone (2.5%) on shaved dorsal skin for 60 days. Thirty days after the final hydroquinone application, investigators began oral administration of galangin for 30 days. Hair grew back after treatment darker than the original color, with histologic analysis revealing that mice treated with galangin and the positive control 8-methoxypsoralen had an increased number of melanin-containing hair follicles, compared with untreated animals. In addition, galangin treatment was associated with significant increases in the number of cutaneous basal layer melanocytes and melanin-containing epidermal cells. Compared with controls, treatment with galangin and 8-methoxypsoralen led to increased serum levels of tyrosinase and decreased levels of malondialdehyde and lower cholinesterase activity. Galangin and 8-methoxypsoralen use also increased the expression of tyrosinase protein in treated skin. The investigators concluded that galangin improved hydroquinone-induced vitiligo in mice and warrants further study as a potential vitiligo treatment in humans (Phytother. Res. 2014 28:1533-8).

Conclusion

Alpinia officinarum is one of many botanical agents with a long history of applications in traditional folk medicine, particularly in Asia. There is a relative paucity of evidence regarding the dermatologic applications of this plant, but recent findings support continued research into its various potential cutaneous benefits, with particular focus on the main active ingredient galangin.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Alpinia officinarum (and its close relative Alpinia galanga), a member of the Zingiberaceae family (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5), has long been used in Chinese medicinals (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53). Specifically, the plant is used in traditional Chinese medicine as an aphrodisiac, abortifacient, carminative, antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, and emmenagogue as well as to treat disorders of the heart and kidneys, bronchitis, chronic enteritis, renal calculus, diabetes, and rheumatism (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5; Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53). Stomach ailments are the most typical application of the herb in traditional Chinese and Thai medicine; it is also used in Ayurveda and Sidda medicine. A. officinarum is widely cultivated throughout Asia, including China, Thailand, India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and Indonesia, as well as the Middle East and Northern Africa (Saudi Arabia and Egypt, respectively) (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5).

The flavonoid galangin (3,5,7-trihydroxyflavone) is the primary active constituent of A. officinarum (Phytother. Res. 2014;28:1533-8; J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61). In vitro, it has demonstrated a cytotoxic effect on multiple cancer cell lines (J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114[1]:152-61). Traditional Uighur medicine in China has incorporated galangin for the treatment of vitiligo (Phytother. Res. 2014;28:1533-8). Overall, A. officinarum rhizomes have been associated with antiemetic, antigenotoxic, antimutagenic, and antioxidant activity, as well as inhibitory effects on prostaglandin and leukotriene biosynthesis, and modulatory effects on cytochrome P450 enzymes (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53; J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61). The rhizomes of A. officinarum have been used externally to treat skin infections, gum diseases, and skin cancer (J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

Constituents

The rhizomes of the plant, commonly referred to as galangal, contain several key active constituents, including essential oils, tannins, neolignans, phenol, glycosides, monoterpenes, diarylheptanoids, phenylpropanoids, carbohydrates, gallic acid glycoside, galangoisoflavonoid, beta-sitosterol, galangin, alpinin, zerumbone, and kampferide (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5; Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53; J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

In 2009, Matsuda et al. reported that the 80% aqueous acetone extract of the rhizomes of A. officinarum suppressed melanogenesis in theophylline-stimulated murine B16 melanoma 4A5 cells. They found that several isolated constituents had significant IC50 values (10-48 mcm) for inhibiting melanogenesis, including four diarylheptanoids (5-hydroxy-1,7-diphenyl-3-heptanone, 7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenylhept-4-en-3-one, 5-hydroxy-7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenyl-3-heptanone, and 3,5-dihydroxy-1,7-diphenylheptane) and two flavonol constituents (kaempferide and galangin). The mRNA expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related proteins-1 and -2 was also hindered by 7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenylhept-4-en-3-one, kaempferide, and galangin, as was the protein level of a microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, the authors noted (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53).

Biologic activity

Penetration enhancement: In 2000, Shen et al. found that volatile oils from galangal, among other herbs, were effective in enhancing the skin permeation of 5-fluorouracil and notably more effective than azone (Zhong Yao Cai 2000;23:697-9).

Anti-inflammatory effects: In 2008, Yasukawa et al. examined the inhibitory effect of galangal in a two-stage in vivo carcinogenesis model in mice. They observed that the A. officinarum rhizomes displayed significant antitumor-promoting activity against 7,12-dimethylbenz[a]anthracene (DMBA)-initiated and 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate (TPA)–promoted lesions. Seven diarylheptanoids isolated from the active fraction of the methanol extracts demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory effects against TPA-induced inflammation (J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

Cancer prevention and pigmentary effects: Heo et al. reported in 2001 that in vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated that the flavonoid galangin, found in high concentrations in A. officinarum, as well as the bee product propolis, exhibits significant antioxidant activity and can influence enzyme activities and inhibit genotoxicity without introducing a pro-oxidant effect. They concluded that galangin warrants consideration for its potential as a chemical cancer-preventing agent (Mutat. Res. 2001;488:135-50).

In 2007, Lu et al. investigated the whitening effects of the flavonoid components of A. officinarum on melanin biosynthesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells, tyrosinase inhibition, and UV absorption. They found that galangin and the flavonoid mixture both decreased melanin content more than controls and also lowered melanin production, with galangin more effective than the flavonoid mixture. In addition, galangin and the flavonoid mixture exerted greater tyrosinase inhibition at lower concentrations. The A. officinarum constituents also displayed a broad absorption band in the UVB area (270 to 290 nm). The researchers concluded that galangin may be a viable whitening agent with the potential to prevent skin cancer (J. Enzyme Inhib. Med. Chem. 2007;22:433-8).

Six years later, Zhang et al. noted that various doses of galangin resulted in the inhibition of B16F10 melanoma cell proliferation. The investigators also showed that galangin achieved an antimetastatic effect in vivo in C57BL/6J mice, reducing focal adhesion kinase. They concluded that focal adhesion kinase is a viable target in melanoma therapy, with B16F10 melanoma metastasis apparently checked by galangin in mice and in cell cultures (J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61).

In 2014, Huo et al. tested galangin in a mouse model of vitiligo induced in C57BL/6 mice through the daily topical application of hydroquinone (2.5%) on shaved dorsal skin for 60 days. Thirty days after the final hydroquinone application, investigators began oral administration of galangin for 30 days. Hair grew back after treatment darker than the original color, with histologic analysis revealing that mice treated with galangin and the positive control 8-methoxypsoralen had an increased number of melanin-containing hair follicles, compared with untreated animals. In addition, galangin treatment was associated with significant increases in the number of cutaneous basal layer melanocytes and melanin-containing epidermal cells. Compared with controls, treatment with galangin and 8-methoxypsoralen led to increased serum levels of tyrosinase and decreased levels of malondialdehyde and lower cholinesterase activity. Galangin and 8-methoxypsoralen use also increased the expression of tyrosinase protein in treated skin. The investigators concluded that galangin improved hydroquinone-induced vitiligo in mice and warrants further study as a potential vitiligo treatment in humans (Phytother. Res. 2014 28:1533-8).

Conclusion

Alpinia officinarum is one of many botanical agents with a long history of applications in traditional folk medicine, particularly in Asia. There is a relative paucity of evidence regarding the dermatologic applications of this plant, but recent findings support continued research into its various potential cutaneous benefits, with particular focus on the main active ingredient galangin.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Alpinia officinarum (and its close relative Alpinia galanga), a member of the Zingiberaceae family (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5), has long been used in Chinese medicinals (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53). Specifically, the plant is used in traditional Chinese medicine as an aphrodisiac, abortifacient, carminative, antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, and emmenagogue as well as to treat disorders of the heart and kidneys, bronchitis, chronic enteritis, renal calculus, diabetes, and rheumatism (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5; Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53). Stomach ailments are the most typical application of the herb in traditional Chinese and Thai medicine; it is also used in Ayurveda and Sidda medicine. A. officinarum is widely cultivated throughout Asia, including China, Thailand, India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and Indonesia, as well as the Middle East and Northern Africa (Saudi Arabia and Egypt, respectively) (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5).

The flavonoid galangin (3,5,7-trihydroxyflavone) is the primary active constituent of A. officinarum (Phytother. Res. 2014;28:1533-8; J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61). In vitro, it has demonstrated a cytotoxic effect on multiple cancer cell lines (J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114[1]:152-61). Traditional Uighur medicine in China has incorporated galangin for the treatment of vitiligo (Phytother. Res. 2014;28:1533-8). Overall, A. officinarum rhizomes have been associated with antiemetic, antigenotoxic, antimutagenic, and antioxidant activity, as well as inhibitory effects on prostaglandin and leukotriene biosynthesis, and modulatory effects on cytochrome P450 enzymes (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53; J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61). The rhizomes of A. officinarum have been used externally to treat skin infections, gum diseases, and skin cancer (J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

Constituents

The rhizomes of the plant, commonly referred to as galangal, contain several key active constituents, including essential oils, tannins, neolignans, phenol, glycosides, monoterpenes, diarylheptanoids, phenylpropanoids, carbohydrates, gallic acid glycoside, galangoisoflavonoid, beta-sitosterol, galangin, alpinin, zerumbone, and kampferide (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Xue Bao 2011;9:1061-5; Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53; J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

In 2009, Matsuda et al. reported that the 80% aqueous acetone extract of the rhizomes of A. officinarum suppressed melanogenesis in theophylline-stimulated murine B16 melanoma 4A5 cells. They found that several isolated constituents had significant IC50 values (10-48 mcm) for inhibiting melanogenesis, including four diarylheptanoids (5-hydroxy-1,7-diphenyl-3-heptanone, 7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenylhept-4-en-3-one, 5-hydroxy-7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenyl-3-heptanone, and 3,5-dihydroxy-1,7-diphenylheptane) and two flavonol constituents (kaempferide and galangin). The mRNA expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related proteins-1 and -2 was also hindered by 7-(4(‘’)-hydroxy-3(‘’)-methoxyphenyl)-1-phenylhept-4-en-3-one, kaempferide, and galangin, as was the protein level of a microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, the authors noted (Bioorg. Med. Chem. 2009;17:6048-53).

Biologic activity

Penetration enhancement: In 2000, Shen et al. found that volatile oils from galangal, among other herbs, were effective in enhancing the skin permeation of 5-fluorouracil and notably more effective than azone (Zhong Yao Cai 2000;23:697-9).

Anti-inflammatory effects: In 2008, Yasukawa et al. examined the inhibitory effect of galangal in a two-stage in vivo carcinogenesis model in mice. They observed that the A. officinarum rhizomes displayed significant antitumor-promoting activity against 7,12-dimethylbenz[a]anthracene (DMBA)-initiated and 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate (TPA)–promoted lesions. Seven diarylheptanoids isolated from the active fraction of the methanol extracts demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory effects against TPA-induced inflammation (J. Nat. Med. 2008;62:374-8).

Cancer prevention and pigmentary effects: Heo et al. reported in 2001 that in vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated that the flavonoid galangin, found in high concentrations in A. officinarum, as well as the bee product propolis, exhibits significant antioxidant activity and can influence enzyme activities and inhibit genotoxicity without introducing a pro-oxidant effect. They concluded that galangin warrants consideration for its potential as a chemical cancer-preventing agent (Mutat. Res. 2001;488:135-50).

In 2007, Lu et al. investigated the whitening effects of the flavonoid components of A. officinarum on melanin biosynthesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells, tyrosinase inhibition, and UV absorption. They found that galangin and the flavonoid mixture both decreased melanin content more than controls and also lowered melanin production, with galangin more effective than the flavonoid mixture. In addition, galangin and the flavonoid mixture exerted greater tyrosinase inhibition at lower concentrations. The A. officinarum constituents also displayed a broad absorption band in the UVB area (270 to 290 nm). The researchers concluded that galangin may be a viable whitening agent with the potential to prevent skin cancer (J. Enzyme Inhib. Med. Chem. 2007;22:433-8).

Six years later, Zhang et al. noted that various doses of galangin resulted in the inhibition of B16F10 melanoma cell proliferation. The investigators also showed that galangin achieved an antimetastatic effect in vivo in C57BL/6J mice, reducing focal adhesion kinase. They concluded that focal adhesion kinase is a viable target in melanoma therapy, with B16F10 melanoma metastasis apparently checked by galangin in mice and in cell cultures (J. Cell Biochem. 2013;114:152-61).

In 2014, Huo et al. tested galangin in a mouse model of vitiligo induced in C57BL/6 mice through the daily topical application of hydroquinone (2.5%) on shaved dorsal skin for 60 days. Thirty days after the final hydroquinone application, investigators began oral administration of galangin for 30 days. Hair grew back after treatment darker than the original color, with histologic analysis revealing that mice treated with galangin and the positive control 8-methoxypsoralen had an increased number of melanin-containing hair follicles, compared with untreated animals. In addition, galangin treatment was associated with significant increases in the number of cutaneous basal layer melanocytes and melanin-containing epidermal cells. Compared with controls, treatment with galangin and 8-methoxypsoralen led to increased serum levels of tyrosinase and decreased levels of malondialdehyde and lower cholinesterase activity. Galangin and 8-methoxypsoralen use also increased the expression of tyrosinase protein in treated skin. The investigators concluded that galangin improved hydroquinone-induced vitiligo in mice and warrants further study as a potential vitiligo treatment in humans (Phytother. Res. 2014 28:1533-8).

Conclusion

Alpinia officinarum is one of many botanical agents with a long history of applications in traditional folk medicine, particularly in Asia. There is a relative paucity of evidence regarding the dermatologic applications of this plant, but recent findings support continued research into its various potential cutaneous benefits, with particular focus on the main active ingredient galangin.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Pedunculagin is an ellagitannin, a group of polyphenolic hydrolyzable tannins, found in various plants, including Emblica officinalis, Pimenta dioica, and several others (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2014, Feb 7. [Epub ahead of print]; Curr. Drug Targets 2012;13:1900-06). The substance is reported to exhibit anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and antimicrobial activities, and it is considered a potent dietary antioxidant (Z. Naturforsch C. 2007;62:526-36; J. Org. Chem. 1996;61:2606-12; J. Nutr. 2014;144(4 Suppl):555S-60S). Purified from the Manchurian alder (Alnus hirsuta), pedunculagin is also a novel immunomodulating agent (Skin Res. Technol. 2010;16:371-7). Pedunculagin is also one of the hydrolyzable tannins found in Punica granatum (pomegranate), fruit extracts of which have been shown by Afaq et al. to exert photochemopreventive effects against the deleterious effects of ultraviolet B radiation (Photochem. Photobiol. 2005;81:38-45). Pedunculagin was first synthesized (in 2,3- and 4,6-coupled form) in 1996 (J. Org. Chem. 1996;61:2606-12).

Anticancer and antioxidant activity

In a study of 57 tannins and related compounds, Kashiwada et al. noted in a 1992 study that pedunculagin exhibited selective cytotoxicity against melanoma cells (J. Nat. Prod. 1992;55:1033-43).

According to a 2007 report by Marzouk et al., pedunculagin is among one of several tannins identified in the leaves of Pimenta dioica, and it is among the most potent free radical scavengers, as well as one of the most cytotoxic substances against solid tumor cancer cells. Pedunculagin also was found to significantly suppress nitric oxide production and spur the proliferation of T-lymphocytes and macrophages (Z. Naturforsch C. 2007;62:526-36).

In 2012, Kähkönen et al. observed that red raspberry and cloudberry ellagitannins, including pedunculagin, acted as effective radical scavengers, substantially contributing to the antioxidant activity of the berries in lipoprotein and lipid emulsion environments (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2012;60:1167-74).

A 2014 review by Hardman summarized several studies suggesting that potent anticancer properties, including antiproliferative and antiangiogenic activities, have been linked to walnuts. She noted that pedunculagin is one of the key constituents in walnuts to which such characteristics have been attributed (J. Nutr. 2014;144(4 Suppl):555S-60S).

Potential cutaneous applications

In 2010, Lee et al. assessed the effects of pedunculagin on 2,4,6-trinitrochlorobenzene (TNCB)-induced atopic dermatitis-like lesions in NC/Nga mice. Investigators applied a cream containing 0.1% or 0.5% pedunculagin to the positive treatment group; the negative treatment group received the base cream without pedunculagin, with no topical formulations administered to a control group. The investigators found, 4 weeks after treatment, that greater and more rapid improvement in the lesions was experienced by the group that received the higher concentration of pedunculagin (Skin Res. Technol. 2010;16:371-7).

Kim et al., in 2014, isolated pedunculagin and five other phenolic compounds from the leaves of Quercus mongolica (Mongolian oak). They found that pedunculagin exhibited strong in vitro inhibition against the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and increased type I procollagen in human fibroblasts exposed to UVB. The Q. mongolica constituent was also found to concentration-dependently exhibit potent scavenging activity against the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) radical. The investigators suggested that the ellagitannin shows promise for use in preventing and treating cutaneous aging (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2014 Feb. 7. [Epub ahead of print]).

Conclusion

Pedunculagin shows some promise as an agent that can yield dermatologic benefits. However, the body of research on this natural compound is relatively scant. More expansive follow-up work is needed to determine the extent to which pedunculagin can be reasonably incorporated into the dermatologic armamentarium.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Pedunculagin is an ellagitannin, a group of polyphenolic hydrolyzable tannins, found in various plants, including Emblica officinalis, Pimenta dioica, and several others (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2014, Feb 7. [Epub ahead of print]; Curr. Drug Targets 2012;13:1900-06). The substance is reported to exhibit anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and antimicrobial activities, and it is considered a potent dietary antioxidant (Z. Naturforsch C. 2007;62:526-36; J. Org. Chem. 1996;61:2606-12; J. Nutr. 2014;144(4 Suppl):555S-60S). Purified from the Manchurian alder (Alnus hirsuta), pedunculagin is also a novel immunomodulating agent (Skin Res. Technol. 2010;16:371-7). Pedunculagin is also one of the hydrolyzable tannins found in Punica granatum (pomegranate), fruit extracts of which have been shown by Afaq et al. to exert photochemopreventive effects against the deleterious effects of ultraviolet B radiation (Photochem. Photobiol. 2005;81:38-45). Pedunculagin was first synthesized (in 2,3- and 4,6-coupled form) in 1996 (J. Org. Chem. 1996;61:2606-12).

Anticancer and antioxidant activity

In a study of 57 tannins and related compounds, Kashiwada et al. noted in a 1992 study that pedunculagin exhibited selective cytotoxicity against melanoma cells (J. Nat. Prod. 1992;55:1033-43).

According to a 2007 report by Marzouk et al., pedunculagin is among one of several tannins identified in the leaves of Pimenta dioica, and it is among the most potent free radical scavengers, as well as one of the most cytotoxic substances against solid tumor cancer cells. Pedunculagin also was found to significantly suppress nitric oxide production and spur the proliferation of T-lymphocytes and macrophages (Z. Naturforsch C. 2007;62:526-36).

In 2012, Kähkönen et al. observed that red raspberry and cloudberry ellagitannins, including pedunculagin, acted as effective radical scavengers, substantially contributing to the antioxidant activity of the berries in lipoprotein and lipid emulsion environments (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2012;60:1167-74).

A 2014 review by Hardman summarized several studies suggesting that potent anticancer properties, including antiproliferative and antiangiogenic activities, have been linked to walnuts. She noted that pedunculagin is one of the key constituents in walnuts to which such characteristics have been attributed (J. Nutr. 2014;144(4 Suppl):555S-60S).

Potential cutaneous applications

In 2010, Lee et al. assessed the effects of pedunculagin on 2,4,6-trinitrochlorobenzene (TNCB)-induced atopic dermatitis-like lesions in NC/Nga mice. Investigators applied a cream containing 0.1% or 0.5% pedunculagin to the positive treatment group; the negative treatment group received the base cream without pedunculagin, with no topical formulations administered to a control group. The investigators found, 4 weeks after treatment, that greater and more rapid improvement in the lesions was experienced by the group that received the higher concentration of pedunculagin (Skin Res. Technol. 2010;16:371-7).

Kim et al., in 2014, isolated pedunculagin and five other phenolic compounds from the leaves of Quercus mongolica (Mongolian oak). They found that pedunculagin exhibited strong in vitro inhibition against the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and increased type I procollagen in human fibroblasts exposed to UVB. The Q. mongolica constituent was also found to concentration-dependently exhibit potent scavenging activity against the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) radical. The investigators suggested that the ellagitannin shows promise for use in preventing and treating cutaneous aging (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2014 Feb. 7. [Epub ahead of print]).

Conclusion

Pedunculagin shows some promise as an agent that can yield dermatologic benefits. However, the body of research on this natural compound is relatively scant. More expansive follow-up work is needed to determine the extent to which pedunculagin can be reasonably incorporated into the dermatologic armamentarium.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Pedunculagin is an ellagitannin, a group of polyphenolic hydrolyzable tannins, found in various plants, including Emblica officinalis, Pimenta dioica, and several others (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2014, Feb 7. [Epub ahead of print]; Curr. Drug Targets 2012;13:1900-06). The substance is reported to exhibit anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and antimicrobial activities, and it is considered a potent dietary antioxidant (Z. Naturforsch C. 2007;62:526-36; J. Org. Chem. 1996;61:2606-12; J. Nutr. 2014;144(4 Suppl):555S-60S). Purified from the Manchurian alder (Alnus hirsuta), pedunculagin is also a novel immunomodulating agent (Skin Res. Technol. 2010;16:371-7). Pedunculagin is also one of the hydrolyzable tannins found in Punica granatum (pomegranate), fruit extracts of which have been shown by Afaq et al. to exert photochemopreventive effects against the deleterious effects of ultraviolet B radiation (Photochem. Photobiol. 2005;81:38-45). Pedunculagin was first synthesized (in 2,3- and 4,6-coupled form) in 1996 (J. Org. Chem. 1996;61:2606-12).

Anticancer and antioxidant activity

In a study of 57 tannins and related compounds, Kashiwada et al. noted in a 1992 study that pedunculagin exhibited selective cytotoxicity against melanoma cells (J. Nat. Prod. 1992;55:1033-43).

According to a 2007 report by Marzouk et al., pedunculagin is among one of several tannins identified in the leaves of Pimenta dioica, and it is among the most potent free radical scavengers, as well as one of the most cytotoxic substances against solid tumor cancer cells. Pedunculagin also was found to significantly suppress nitric oxide production and spur the proliferation of T-lymphocytes and macrophages (Z. Naturforsch C. 2007;62:526-36).

In 2012, Kähkönen et al. observed that red raspberry and cloudberry ellagitannins, including pedunculagin, acted as effective radical scavengers, substantially contributing to the antioxidant activity of the berries in lipoprotein and lipid emulsion environments (J. Agric. Food Chem. 2012;60:1167-74).

A 2014 review by Hardman summarized several studies suggesting that potent anticancer properties, including antiproliferative and antiangiogenic activities, have been linked to walnuts. She noted that pedunculagin is one of the key constituents in walnuts to which such characteristics have been attributed (J. Nutr. 2014;144(4 Suppl):555S-60S).

Potential cutaneous applications

In 2010, Lee et al. assessed the effects of pedunculagin on 2,4,6-trinitrochlorobenzene (TNCB)-induced atopic dermatitis-like lesions in NC/Nga mice. Investigators applied a cream containing 0.1% or 0.5% pedunculagin to the positive treatment group; the negative treatment group received the base cream without pedunculagin, with no topical formulations administered to a control group. The investigators found, 4 weeks after treatment, that greater and more rapid improvement in the lesions was experienced by the group that received the higher concentration of pedunculagin (Skin Res. Technol. 2010;16:371-7).

Kim et al., in 2014, isolated pedunculagin and five other phenolic compounds from the leaves of Quercus mongolica (Mongolian oak). They found that pedunculagin exhibited strong in vitro inhibition against the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and increased type I procollagen in human fibroblasts exposed to UVB. The Q. mongolica constituent was also found to concentration-dependently exhibit potent scavenging activity against the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) radical. The investigators suggested that the ellagitannin shows promise for use in preventing and treating cutaneous aging (Arch. Pharm. Res. 2014 Feb. 7. [Epub ahead of print]).

Conclusion

Pedunculagin shows some promise as an agent that can yield dermatologic benefits. However, the body of research on this natural compound is relatively scant. More expansive follow-up work is needed to determine the extent to which pedunculagin can be reasonably incorporated into the dermatologic armamentarium.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

In the multibillion-dollar skin care industry, there are many well-recognized brands. However, we sometimes forget that behind these products were formulators who took their scientific ideas and turned them into recipes for cosmetically elegant active formulations.

I have spent the last 15 years researching the activity of cosmeceutical ingredients for my new textbook, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (McGraw Hill, 2014). Each ingredient has its own quirks, and they all do not “play well in the sandbox” together. Formulation knowledge (cosmetic chemistry) is required to take these ingredients and combine them in a way that enhances rather than hinders their activity, just as a chef combines ingredients and cooking techniques to enhance the flavor and presentation of food. When I discuss cosmeceutical products, I always stress the importance of the ingredients and understanding ingredient interactions, because they determine the end product – how effective it is and how elegant it feels. If a product works well but smells bad and feels unpleasant, consumers will not use it.

Whom are we trusting when it comes to this science? The formulators, also known as cosmetic chemists, who put their blood, sweat, and tears into years of work to develop products that yield efficacious results. They are often behind the scenes, and their contributions are not always recognized. I refer to them as the “Julia Childs” of skin care, because they remind me of how Julia Child combined her knowledge of ingredients and aesthetic sensibilities to change the world of cooking.

I’d like to shine the spotlight on several top skin care formulators that I have met. Their relentless desire to perfect skin care recipes has helped the industry boom and has improved skin health.

Richard Parker

Location: Melbourne

Richard Parker is the CEO/founder of the Australia-based company Rationale. When he was unable to find skin care products that worked with his skin type, he decided to study cosmetic chemistry and create his own skin care line. Today, Rationale can be found in dermatologists’ and plastic surgeons’ offices across Australia. Parker’s passion for cosmetic science is evident. Australia has a high incidence of melanoma, and sunscreens undergo greater scrutiny there compared with other countries. One of the things that Parker is most proud of is his creation of SPF products that are “as elegant as they are effective.” This is a difficult combination to achieve, because sunscreens tend to be too white or too greasy; formulating them properly requires a “master chef.”

In addition to formulating effective and elegant sun protection, he has developed Essential Six: a combination of six products that work in synergy, delivering the perfect combination of active ingredients at the correct concentration to be recognized and utilized by skin cells.

In order to succeed in the formulations industry, you must possess a desire to make it better; and Parker does just that. It’s his wish for the industry to have an increased awareness of a holistic approach to skin care that includes immune protection, antioxidants, sunscreens, gentle cleansing, alpha-hydroxy acids, and vitamin A.

If being at the forefront of this evolution isn’t enough, Parker is devoted to continue his mission for years to come, all the while helping younger chemists/formulators embrace the culture.

“For the past 25 years, I have had the privilege to work with Australia’s leading dermatologists to create the best possible products and procedures,” he said. “At this stage of my career, it is so gratifying to see the younger generation of skin specialists embrace medical skin care as a part of best clinical practice.”

Chuck Friedman

Location: Wendell, N.C.

Chuck Friedman is a man who prides himself on the use of natural products – not a small achievement for a man who has been in the industry for almost half a century. His work as a formulation chemist has spanned globally recognized companies such as Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, Almay, Estée Lauder, Burt’s Bees, and Polysciences.

Friedman prides himself on his natural products. His product list includes hypoallergenic and natural versions of cleansers; toners; exfoliators; moisturizers and masks; shampoos; conditioners; dandruff treatments and hair sprays; antiperspirants and deodorants; lip balms; salves and cuticle treatments; shaving creams and aftershaves; over-the-counter analgesics; acne treatments and sunscreens; toothpastes; and liquid soap.

Friedman has said that he is most proud of his Burt’s Bees Orange Essence Cleansing Cream, which won Health Magazine’s Healthiest Cleanser of the Year in 1999. The product is an anhydrous, 100% natural, self-preserving translucent gel-emulsion of vegetable oil and vegetable glycerin stabilized by a proprietary protein.

During his tenure in the industry, Friedman has faced many hurdles in creating his natural formulations – achieving esthetics, efficacy, and physical stability at temperature extremes while maintaining microbiological integrity and using more green, renewable ingredients while formulating with fewer petrochemicals. His breakthrough natural formulations developed at Burt’s Bees are emulated and marketed widely today.

Sergio Nacht

Location: Las Vegas

Sergio Nacht is a biochemist, researcher, and product developer with 48 years of formulation experience. Currently, he is chief scientific officer/cofounder at resolutionMD and Riley-Nacht.

“A better understanding of the structure and function of the skin has resulted in the development of better functional products that deliver clinically demonstrable benefits and not only ‘hope in a jar,’ ” he has said.

Nacht has coauthored more than 50 scientific papers, and he holds 17 international and U.S. patents.

Possibly his most significant accomplishment followed the discovery of what he believes is one of the biggest challenges in skin care formulation. Microsponge Technology is the first – and still the only – U.S. Food and Drug Administration–approved controlled-release technology for topical products that maximizes efficacy while minimizing side effects and optimizing cosmetic attributes by allowing slow release of ingredients. The microsponge is used to provide various therapeutic solutions for antiaging, acne treatment, skin firming, skin lightening, and mattifying – most notably as the lead technology behind Retin-A Micro.

Byeong-Deog Park

Location: Seoul, South Korea

Byeong-Deog Park holds a Ph.D. in industrial chemicals from Seoul National University, among his other achievements. Dr. Park’s company, Neopharm, is located in Seoul. He is a true scientist who has been awarded many patents in the areas of ceramides for the treatment of dry skin and atopic dermatitis; PPAR (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor)-alpha in the treatment of inflammatory disorders; and an antimicrobial peptide, Defensamide, which has been shown to prevent colonization of Staphylococcus aureus. His research led to the development of a proprietary MLE (multilamellar emulsion) technology in which lipids and ceramides form the identical Maltese cross structure that is seen in the natural lipid barrier of the skin, allowing effective skin barrier repair.

With MLE technology, the ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol required for an intact skin barrier are replaced in the proper ratio and three-dimensional structure needed to emulate the skin’s natural structure. This reforms the skin’s barrier and prevents water evaporation from the skin’s surface. Dr. Park has said that he is most proud of his patented MLE technology, found in the brands Atopalm and Zerafite. He also combined MLE technology and Defensamide in an atopic dermatitis treatment known as Zeroid.

Dr. Park never ceases to impress me with his scientific knowledge and dedication to the scientific method. In a field where many products are considered “hope in a jar,” his cosmetically elegant products stand out as “verified science in a jar.”

Gordon Dow

Location: Petaluma, Calif.

Gordon Dow started Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences in his garage. Today, Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences (recently acquired by Valeant Pharmaceuticals International) is a leading company in the formulation and manufacturing of dermatological products.

Over the past 25 years, Dow has commanded the company’s evolution by carefully balancing science and business. He previously served as vice president of research and development for Ingram Pharmaceuticals, where he developed seven commercially successful products, including four dermatologicals. He also served as the executive secretary of the research advisory panel for the State of California. A few of Dow’s best-known products include MetroGel, Ziana, and Acanya.

The passion for science and skin care of these individuals has shaped the dermatologic landscape for the best. They would probably agree with Julia Child, who once said, “Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.”

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in Miami Beach. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Galderma, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Stiefel, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

In the multibillion-dollar skin care industry, there are many well-recognized brands. However, we sometimes forget that behind these products were formulators who took their scientific ideas and turned them into recipes for cosmetically elegant active formulations.

I have spent the last 15 years researching the activity of cosmeceutical ingredients for my new textbook, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (McGraw Hill, 2014). Each ingredient has its own quirks, and they all do not “play well in the sandbox” together. Formulation knowledge (cosmetic chemistry) is required to take these ingredients and combine them in a way that enhances rather than hinders their activity, just as a chef combines ingredients and cooking techniques to enhance the flavor and presentation of food. When I discuss cosmeceutical products, I always stress the importance of the ingredients and understanding ingredient interactions, because they determine the end product – how effective it is and how elegant it feels. If a product works well but smells bad and feels unpleasant, consumers will not use it.

Whom are we trusting when it comes to this science? The formulators, also known as cosmetic chemists, who put their blood, sweat, and tears into years of work to develop products that yield efficacious results. They are often behind the scenes, and their contributions are not always recognized. I refer to them as the “Julia Childs” of skin care, because they remind me of how Julia Child combined her knowledge of ingredients and aesthetic sensibilities to change the world of cooking.

I’d like to shine the spotlight on several top skin care formulators that I have met. Their relentless desire to perfect skin care recipes has helped the industry boom and has improved skin health.

Richard Parker

Location: Melbourne

Richard Parker is the CEO/founder of the Australia-based company Rationale. When he was unable to find skin care products that worked with his skin type, he decided to study cosmetic chemistry and create his own skin care line. Today, Rationale can be found in dermatologists’ and plastic surgeons’ offices across Australia. Parker’s passion for cosmetic science is evident. Australia has a high incidence of melanoma, and sunscreens undergo greater scrutiny there compared with other countries. One of the things that Parker is most proud of is his creation of SPF products that are “as elegant as they are effective.” This is a difficult combination to achieve, because sunscreens tend to be too white or too greasy; formulating them properly requires a “master chef.”

In addition to formulating effective and elegant sun protection, he has developed Essential Six: a combination of six products that work in synergy, delivering the perfect combination of active ingredients at the correct concentration to be recognized and utilized by skin cells.

In order to succeed in the formulations industry, you must possess a desire to make it better; and Parker does just that. It’s his wish for the industry to have an increased awareness of a holistic approach to skin care that includes immune protection, antioxidants, sunscreens, gentle cleansing, alpha-hydroxy acids, and vitamin A.

If being at the forefront of this evolution isn’t enough, Parker is devoted to continue his mission for years to come, all the while helping younger chemists/formulators embrace the culture.

“For the past 25 years, I have had the privilege to work with Australia’s leading dermatologists to create the best possible products and procedures,” he said. “At this stage of my career, it is so gratifying to see the younger generation of skin specialists embrace medical skin care as a part of best clinical practice.”

Chuck Friedman

Location: Wendell, N.C.

Chuck Friedman is a man who prides himself on the use of natural products – not a small achievement for a man who has been in the industry for almost half a century. His work as a formulation chemist has spanned globally recognized companies such as Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, Almay, Estée Lauder, Burt’s Bees, and Polysciences.

Friedman prides himself on his natural products. His product list includes hypoallergenic and natural versions of cleansers; toners; exfoliators; moisturizers and masks; shampoos; conditioners; dandruff treatments and hair sprays; antiperspirants and deodorants; lip balms; salves and cuticle treatments; shaving creams and aftershaves; over-the-counter analgesics; acne treatments and sunscreens; toothpastes; and liquid soap.

Friedman has said that he is most proud of his Burt’s Bees Orange Essence Cleansing Cream, which won Health Magazine’s Healthiest Cleanser of the Year in 1999. The product is an anhydrous, 100% natural, self-preserving translucent gel-emulsion of vegetable oil and vegetable glycerin stabilized by a proprietary protein.

During his tenure in the industry, Friedman has faced many hurdles in creating his natural formulations – achieving esthetics, efficacy, and physical stability at temperature extremes while maintaining microbiological integrity and using more green, renewable ingredients while formulating with fewer petrochemicals. His breakthrough natural formulations developed at Burt’s Bees are emulated and marketed widely today.

Sergio Nacht

Location: Las Vegas

Sergio Nacht is a biochemist, researcher, and product developer with 48 years of formulation experience. Currently, he is chief scientific officer/cofounder at resolutionMD and Riley-Nacht.

“A better understanding of the structure and function of the skin has resulted in the development of better functional products that deliver clinically demonstrable benefits and not only ‘hope in a jar,’ ” he has said.

Nacht has coauthored more than 50 scientific papers, and he holds 17 international and U.S. patents.

Possibly his most significant accomplishment followed the discovery of what he believes is one of the biggest challenges in skin care formulation. Microsponge Technology is the first – and still the only – U.S. Food and Drug Administration–approved controlled-release technology for topical products that maximizes efficacy while minimizing side effects and optimizing cosmetic attributes by allowing slow release of ingredients. The microsponge is used to provide various therapeutic solutions for antiaging, acne treatment, skin firming, skin lightening, and mattifying – most notably as the lead technology behind Retin-A Micro.

Byeong-Deog Park

Location: Seoul, South Korea

Byeong-Deog Park holds a Ph.D. in industrial chemicals from Seoul National University, among his other achievements. Dr. Park’s company, Neopharm, is located in Seoul. He is a true scientist who has been awarded many patents in the areas of ceramides for the treatment of dry skin and atopic dermatitis; PPAR (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor)-alpha in the treatment of inflammatory disorders; and an antimicrobial peptide, Defensamide, which has been shown to prevent colonization of Staphylococcus aureus. His research led to the development of a proprietary MLE (multilamellar emulsion) technology in which lipids and ceramides form the identical Maltese cross structure that is seen in the natural lipid barrier of the skin, allowing effective skin barrier repair.

With MLE technology, the ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol required for an intact skin barrier are replaced in the proper ratio and three-dimensional structure needed to emulate the skin’s natural structure. This reforms the skin’s barrier and prevents water evaporation from the skin’s surface. Dr. Park has said that he is most proud of his patented MLE technology, found in the brands Atopalm and Zerafite. He also combined MLE technology and Defensamide in an atopic dermatitis treatment known as Zeroid.

Dr. Park never ceases to impress me with his scientific knowledge and dedication to the scientific method. In a field where many products are considered “hope in a jar,” his cosmetically elegant products stand out as “verified science in a jar.”

Gordon Dow

Location: Petaluma, Calif.

Gordon Dow started Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences in his garage. Today, Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences (recently acquired by Valeant Pharmaceuticals International) is a leading company in the formulation and manufacturing of dermatological products.

Over the past 25 years, Dow has commanded the company’s evolution by carefully balancing science and business. He previously served as vice president of research and development for Ingram Pharmaceuticals, where he developed seven commercially successful products, including four dermatologicals. He also served as the executive secretary of the research advisory panel for the State of California. A few of Dow’s best-known products include MetroGel, Ziana, and Acanya.

The passion for science and skin care of these individuals has shaped the dermatologic landscape for the best. They would probably agree with Julia Child, who once said, “Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.”

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in Miami Beach. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Galderma, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Stiefel, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

In the multibillion-dollar skin care industry, there are many well-recognized brands. However, we sometimes forget that behind these products were formulators who took their scientific ideas and turned them into recipes for cosmetically elegant active formulations.

I have spent the last 15 years researching the activity of cosmeceutical ingredients for my new textbook, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (McGraw Hill, 2014). Each ingredient has its own quirks, and they all do not “play well in the sandbox” together. Formulation knowledge (cosmetic chemistry) is required to take these ingredients and combine them in a way that enhances rather than hinders their activity, just as a chef combines ingredients and cooking techniques to enhance the flavor and presentation of food. When I discuss cosmeceutical products, I always stress the importance of the ingredients and understanding ingredient interactions, because they determine the end product – how effective it is and how elegant it feels. If a product works well but smells bad and feels unpleasant, consumers will not use it.

Whom are we trusting when it comes to this science? The formulators, also known as cosmetic chemists, who put their blood, sweat, and tears into years of work to develop products that yield efficacious results. They are often behind the scenes, and their contributions are not always recognized. I refer to them as the “Julia Childs” of skin care, because they remind me of how Julia Child combined her knowledge of ingredients and aesthetic sensibilities to change the world of cooking.

I’d like to shine the spotlight on several top skin care formulators that I have met. Their relentless desire to perfect skin care recipes has helped the industry boom and has improved skin health.

Richard Parker

Location: Melbourne

Richard Parker is the CEO/founder of the Australia-based company Rationale. When he was unable to find skin care products that worked with his skin type, he decided to study cosmetic chemistry and create his own skin care line. Today, Rationale can be found in dermatologists’ and plastic surgeons’ offices across Australia. Parker’s passion for cosmetic science is evident. Australia has a high incidence of melanoma, and sunscreens undergo greater scrutiny there compared with other countries. One of the things that Parker is most proud of is his creation of SPF products that are “as elegant as they are effective.” This is a difficult combination to achieve, because sunscreens tend to be too white or too greasy; formulating them properly requires a “master chef.”

In addition to formulating effective and elegant sun protection, he has developed Essential Six: a combination of six products that work in synergy, delivering the perfect combination of active ingredients at the correct concentration to be recognized and utilized by skin cells.

In order to succeed in the formulations industry, you must possess a desire to make it better; and Parker does just that. It’s his wish for the industry to have an increased awareness of a holistic approach to skin care that includes immune protection, antioxidants, sunscreens, gentle cleansing, alpha-hydroxy acids, and vitamin A.

If being at the forefront of this evolution isn’t enough, Parker is devoted to continue his mission for years to come, all the while helping younger chemists/formulators embrace the culture.

“For the past 25 years, I have had the privilege to work with Australia’s leading dermatologists to create the best possible products and procedures,” he said. “At this stage of my career, it is so gratifying to see the younger generation of skin specialists embrace medical skin care as a part of best clinical practice.”

Chuck Friedman

Location: Wendell, N.C.

Chuck Friedman is a man who prides himself on the use of natural products – not a small achievement for a man who has been in the industry for almost half a century. His work as a formulation chemist has spanned globally recognized companies such as Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, Almay, Estée Lauder, Burt’s Bees, and Polysciences.

Friedman prides himself on his natural products. His product list includes hypoallergenic and natural versions of cleansers; toners; exfoliators; moisturizers and masks; shampoos; conditioners; dandruff treatments and hair sprays; antiperspirants and deodorants; lip balms; salves and cuticle treatments; shaving creams and aftershaves; over-the-counter analgesics; acne treatments and sunscreens; toothpastes; and liquid soap.

Friedman has said that he is most proud of his Burt’s Bees Orange Essence Cleansing Cream, which won Health Magazine’s Healthiest Cleanser of the Year in 1999. The product is an anhydrous, 100% natural, self-preserving translucent gel-emulsion of vegetable oil and vegetable glycerin stabilized by a proprietary protein.

During his tenure in the industry, Friedman has faced many hurdles in creating his natural formulations – achieving esthetics, efficacy, and physical stability at temperature extremes while maintaining microbiological integrity and using more green, renewable ingredients while formulating with fewer petrochemicals. His breakthrough natural formulations developed at Burt’s Bees are emulated and marketed widely today.

Sergio Nacht

Location: Las Vegas

Sergio Nacht is a biochemist, researcher, and product developer with 48 years of formulation experience. Currently, he is chief scientific officer/cofounder at resolutionMD and Riley-Nacht.

“A better understanding of the structure and function of the skin has resulted in the development of better functional products that deliver clinically demonstrable benefits and not only ‘hope in a jar,’ ” he has said.

Nacht has coauthored more than 50 scientific papers, and he holds 17 international and U.S. patents.

Possibly his most significant accomplishment followed the discovery of what he believes is one of the biggest challenges in skin care formulation. Microsponge Technology is the first – and still the only – U.S. Food and Drug Administration–approved controlled-release technology for topical products that maximizes efficacy while minimizing side effects and optimizing cosmetic attributes by allowing slow release of ingredients. The microsponge is used to provide various therapeutic solutions for antiaging, acne treatment, skin firming, skin lightening, and mattifying – most notably as the lead technology behind Retin-A Micro.

Byeong-Deog Park

Location: Seoul, South Korea

Byeong-Deog Park holds a Ph.D. in industrial chemicals from Seoul National University, among his other achievements. Dr. Park’s company, Neopharm, is located in Seoul. He is a true scientist who has been awarded many patents in the areas of ceramides for the treatment of dry skin and atopic dermatitis; PPAR (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor)-alpha in the treatment of inflammatory disorders; and an antimicrobial peptide, Defensamide, which has been shown to prevent colonization of Staphylococcus aureus. His research led to the development of a proprietary MLE (multilamellar emulsion) technology in which lipids and ceramides form the identical Maltese cross structure that is seen in the natural lipid barrier of the skin, allowing effective skin barrier repair.

With MLE technology, the ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol required for an intact skin barrier are replaced in the proper ratio and three-dimensional structure needed to emulate the skin’s natural structure. This reforms the skin’s barrier and prevents water evaporation from the skin’s surface. Dr. Park has said that he is most proud of his patented MLE technology, found in the brands Atopalm and Zerafite. He also combined MLE technology and Defensamide in an atopic dermatitis treatment known as Zeroid.

Dr. Park never ceases to impress me with his scientific knowledge and dedication to the scientific method. In a field where many products are considered “hope in a jar,” his cosmetically elegant products stand out as “verified science in a jar.”

Gordon Dow

Location: Petaluma, Calif.

Gordon Dow started Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences in his garage. Today, Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences (recently acquired by Valeant Pharmaceuticals International) is a leading company in the formulation and manufacturing of dermatological products.

Over the past 25 years, Dow has commanded the company’s evolution by carefully balancing science and business. He previously served as vice president of research and development for Ingram Pharmaceuticals, where he developed seven commercially successful products, including four dermatologicals. He also served as the executive secretary of the research advisory panel for the State of California. A few of Dow’s best-known products include MetroGel, Ziana, and Acanya.

The passion for science and skin care of these individuals has shaped the dermatologic landscape for the best. They would probably agree with Julia Child, who once said, “Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.”

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in Miami Beach. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Galderma, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Stiefel, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

Dermatology has yet to conquer the cosmetic corner of the specialty. That’s according to Dr. Leslie S. Baumann, of the Miami-based, Skin Type Solutions, who explains a new franchise model she says will help “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.”

In this interview, Dr. Baumann, who writes the Cosmeceutical Critique column for Skin & Allergy News, explains her new franchise method for selling skin care products in the dermatologist’s office, and why she thinks it will “disrupt” business as usual in the retail skin care marketplace, including for online retailers.

The following is an edited transcript of the interview, which you can hear in its entirety here.

SAN: Welcome, Dr. Baumann. You recently wrote that you were helping to “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.” Can you expand on that?

Dr. Baumann: I find that most patients really don’t buy their products from dermatologists. They buy them from Sephora, CVS, or the department store, but it’s dermatologists who have years of training about skin, and consumers don’t realize that the dermatologist’s office is the natural choice for where to buy their skin care products. I know that in some parts of the country, access to dermatologists is limited. I think that if a person can see a dermatologist, then that should be where they go for products as well, but that’s not happening. I think dermatologists have done a poor job in getting the word out that we’re the complete skin care experts.

SAN: So, you’ve created a business model to help with this. Please explain how it works.

Dr. Baumann: I love the science of skin care ingredients, and I want to prescribe the right skin care products to my patients. I was at the University of Miami for about 15 years. We didn’t have a huge staff, and I went through the whole skin care evaluation process and created the correct regimen myself. The original evaluation regimen took about 45 minutes, and I realized that patients would probably purchase products from me at first, but the next time, they would buy them somewhere else.

So, I streamlined my approach to make it faster and not require a lot of staff. I determined that I needed to divide patients into skin types. I came up with 16 main skin types, based on four issues: oily vs. dry; sensitive vs. resistant; pigmented vs. unpigmented; and whether the skin is wrinkle-prone. This was the basis of my book, “The Skin Type Solution,” which was a New York Times Bestseller. This showed me that consumers really care about skin products.

The biggest challenge was to get my staff to be able to correctly diagnose the skin type. It took me years to develop my questionnaire, and we have done all kinds of clinical trials to validate it. Now my staff can administer that questionnaire on an iPad, and it automatically calculates the skin type.

The next step was figuring out which products work for each skin type, and then presetting regimens. I found the best products from the companies that had the best technology, and then I tested those on different skin types. I might have five or six products from four or five different brands for one skin type.

SAN: And you are confident that mixing products from the different brands and all the different ingredients won’t somehow irritate the patient’s skin?

Dr. Baumann: I have done a lot of research on cosmetic ingredients; that’s really my core competency. One company might have the best sunscreen technology, but that doesn’t mean they have the best retinol technology, yet every brand feels that pressure to have lots of different products. However, because I do the research trials for the companies, I know each one’s best technology. So, I find the best technology and apply it like a Rubik’s Cube to each skin type’s need, so they always get the best product, and then I test the product. I have been testing this method since 2005.

SAN: What about eponymous skin care lines?

Dr. Baumann: When you go private label, you hire a formulator the way you’d hire a personal chef. That person may not be the scientist who invented that technology. When you have a private label, there is no way you can achieve the same results as you can when you are sourcing products from the best scientists in the world. I know who these people are because I do the research trials. I also know the ingredient supply companies who have the basic scientists in the lab, tinkering with the cell cultures and looking at the mitochondria, so I know where those basic ingredients go. Because I have a large following after the sale of my book and my online blog, I can get volume discounts from the companies. I created a store in the office, and each shelf is color-coded by skin type so it’s easy to know what products to buy,

My friend, who franchised Blimpie’s sandwich shops, was in my office one day watching customers take everything off the shelf and purchase all of it, and he convinced me to franchise it.

It’s important to understand why we chose this model. If you are a cosmetics company, you are not allowed to tell doctors how much to charge for the products because it violates antitrust laws. This allows some people to buy products and then dump them cheaply on the Internet. We control that by having the doctors sign an agreement that they will not sell the products online, and if they do, we cut them off.

SAN: How do you ensure that the products in your franchises aren’t elsewhere on the Internet?

Dr. Baumann: The plan is that once we have enough doctors in the program, we will negotiate with the manufacturers to create products that are exclusive to us.

SAN: Is this a revolution?

Dr. Baumann: That’s the point. It’s putting the power back in the hands of the dermatologist because we are the authorities on skin care. We need to be the ones that people get all the best news and products from first. Just imagine a world where a great new skin care technology comes out, and the only place you can get it is from the dermatologists. That’s going to drive so much business into the dermatologist’s office, and will help dermatologists build their general and cosmetic practice. The beauty of my system is that it trains your staff to identify the most appropriate products for each patient, but I have selected those products. I tested this method in six dermatologists’ offices, and we found that the product exchange rate went from about 35% to 3%. So, when your patient has a better outcome, they are more likely to trust you, and more likely to refer friends to you.

SAN: But what if a patient doesn’t have access to a dermatologist and the model for purchasing skin care products does change? It sounds like it will be harder for them to get the skin care they need.

Dr. Baumann: That is a great question. It’s a problem I have to figure out how to solve. Right now we’re considering Skype consults. This is not considered practicing medicine, so you can do it across state lines.

SAN: Do you plan to franchise dermatologists only or would you also sell the franchise rights to medical spas and physicians other than dermatologists?

Dr. Baumann: That’s really against my philosophy. I want to bring skin care back to the dermatologist. Did you know that only 15 percent of dermatologists sell skin care products in their practice? It’s difficult for them to set the system up and buy products from the different companies. My company streamlines that process. Another reason many dermatologists don’t sell products is because of ethical concerns. I believe if you are offering patients the best products for their skin types, products they can’t get somewhere else, and at the best price, then that is ethical. When you’re just selling things to make money by taking advantage of the patient-doctor relationship, then I am absolutely against it.

SAN: Why might a dermatologist turn away from this franchise model?

Dr. Baumann: There is no reason not to do it, because the startup costs are minimal. The only reason they might not want to do it is if they have their own skin care brand. A doctor could still sell his or her own brand, but they wouldn’t be able to have it on the Skin Type Solutions shelves, and that gets complicated. Based on patient surveys I’ve done, people don’t really want private skin care labels. I think they feel very suspicious of them. My system solves that problem by helping consumers realize the doctor isn’t pretending they invented these products. This is a more honest approach, in my opinion. That might be controversial, but that’s how I feel.

SAN: It sounds like the cosmetic manufacturers would favor this if you like their line.

Dr. Baumann: My system favors good technology. So the charlatans who are trying to sell stem cell therapies or peptides that don’t work aren’t going to like my system. My system favors the geniuses in the lab who don’t know how to get their technology out there, and I know a lot of them. We’ll be able to find that technology and then launch it through dermatology practices. This helps the genius underdogs who don’t know what to do with what they’ve discovered.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, New York 2002) , and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” will be published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

[email protected]

On Twitter @whitneymcknight

Dermatology has yet to conquer the cosmetic corner of the specialty. That’s according to Dr. Leslie S. Baumann, of the Miami-based, Skin Type Solutions, who explains a new franchise model she says will help “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.”

In this interview, Dr. Baumann, who writes the Cosmeceutical Critique column for Skin & Allergy News, explains her new franchise method for selling skin care products in the dermatologist’s office, and why she thinks it will “disrupt” business as usual in the retail skin care marketplace, including for online retailers.

The following is an edited transcript of the interview, which you can hear in its entirety here.

SAN: Welcome, Dr. Baumann. You recently wrote that you were helping to “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.” Can you expand on that?

Dr. Baumann: I find that most patients really don’t buy their products from dermatologists. They buy them from Sephora, CVS, or the department store, but it’s dermatologists who have years of training about skin, and consumers don’t realize that the dermatologist’s office is the natural choice for where to buy their skin care products. I know that in some parts of the country, access to dermatologists is limited. I think that if a person can see a dermatologist, then that should be where they go for products as well, but that’s not happening. I think dermatologists have done a poor job in getting the word out that we’re the complete skin care experts.

SAN: So, you’ve created a business model to help with this. Please explain how it works.

Dr. Baumann: I love the science of skin care ingredients, and I want to prescribe the right skin care products to my patients. I was at the University of Miami for about 15 years. We didn’t have a huge staff, and I went through the whole skin care evaluation process and created the correct regimen myself. The original evaluation regimen took about 45 minutes, and I realized that patients would probably purchase products from me at first, but the next time, they would buy them somewhere else.

So, I streamlined my approach to make it faster and not require a lot of staff. I determined that I needed to divide patients into skin types. I came up with 16 main skin types, based on four issues: oily vs. dry; sensitive vs. resistant; pigmented vs. unpigmented; and whether the skin is wrinkle-prone. This was the basis of my book, “The Skin Type Solution,” which was a New York Times Bestseller. This showed me that consumers really care about skin products.

The biggest challenge was to get my staff to be able to correctly diagnose the skin type. It took me years to develop my questionnaire, and we have done all kinds of clinical trials to validate it. Now my staff can administer that questionnaire on an iPad, and it automatically calculates the skin type.

The next step was figuring out which products work for each skin type, and then presetting regimens. I found the best products from the companies that had the best technology, and then I tested those on different skin types. I might have five or six products from four or five different brands for one skin type.

SAN: And you are confident that mixing products from the different brands and all the different ingredients won’t somehow irritate the patient’s skin?

Dr. Baumann: I have done a lot of research on cosmetic ingredients; that’s really my core competency. One company might have the best sunscreen technology, but that doesn’t mean they have the best retinol technology, yet every brand feels that pressure to have lots of different products. However, because I do the research trials for the companies, I know each one’s best technology. So, I find the best technology and apply it like a Rubik’s Cube to each skin type’s need, so they always get the best product, and then I test the product. I have been testing this method since 2005.

SAN: What about eponymous skin care lines?

Dr. Baumann: When you go private label, you hire a formulator the way you’d hire a personal chef. That person may not be the scientist who invented that technology. When you have a private label, there is no way you can achieve the same results as you can when you are sourcing products from the best scientists in the world. I know who these people are because I do the research trials. I also know the ingredient supply companies who have the basic scientists in the lab, tinkering with the cell cultures and looking at the mitochondria, so I know where those basic ingredients go. Because I have a large following after the sale of my book and my online blog, I can get volume discounts from the companies. I created a store in the office, and each shelf is color-coded by skin type so it’s easy to know what products to buy,

My friend, who franchised Blimpie’s sandwich shops, was in my office one day watching customers take everything off the shelf and purchase all of it, and he convinced me to franchise it.

It’s important to understand why we chose this model. If you are a cosmetics company, you are not allowed to tell doctors how much to charge for the products because it violates antitrust laws. This allows some people to buy products and then dump them cheaply on the Internet. We control that by having the doctors sign an agreement that they will not sell the products online, and if they do, we cut them off.

SAN: How do you ensure that the products in your franchises aren’t elsewhere on the Internet?

Dr. Baumann: The plan is that once we have enough doctors in the program, we will negotiate with the manufacturers to create products that are exclusive to us.

SAN: Is this a revolution?

Dr. Baumann: That’s the point. It’s putting the power back in the hands of the dermatologist because we are the authorities on skin care. We need to be the ones that people get all the best news and products from first. Just imagine a world where a great new skin care technology comes out, and the only place you can get it is from the dermatologists. That’s going to drive so much business into the dermatologist’s office, and will help dermatologists build their general and cosmetic practice. The beauty of my system is that it trains your staff to identify the most appropriate products for each patient, but I have selected those products. I tested this method in six dermatologists’ offices, and we found that the product exchange rate went from about 35% to 3%. So, when your patient has a better outcome, they are more likely to trust you, and more likely to refer friends to you.

SAN: But what if a patient doesn’t have access to a dermatologist and the model for purchasing skin care products does change? It sounds like it will be harder for them to get the skin care they need.

Dr. Baumann: That is a great question. It’s a problem I have to figure out how to solve. Right now we’re considering Skype consults. This is not considered practicing medicine, so you can do it across state lines.

SAN: Do you plan to franchise dermatologists only or would you also sell the franchise rights to medical spas and physicians other than dermatologists?

Dr. Baumann: That’s really against my philosophy. I want to bring skin care back to the dermatologist. Did you know that only 15 percent of dermatologists sell skin care products in their practice? It’s difficult for them to set the system up and buy products from the different companies. My company streamlines that process. Another reason many dermatologists don’t sell products is because of ethical concerns. I believe if you are offering patients the best products for their skin types, products they can’t get somewhere else, and at the best price, then that is ethical. When you’re just selling things to make money by taking advantage of the patient-doctor relationship, then I am absolutely against it.

SAN: Why might a dermatologist turn away from this franchise model?

Dr. Baumann: There is no reason not to do it, because the startup costs are minimal. The only reason they might not want to do it is if they have their own skin care brand. A doctor could still sell his or her own brand, but they wouldn’t be able to have it on the Skin Type Solutions shelves, and that gets complicated. Based on patient surveys I’ve done, people don’t really want private skin care labels. I think they feel very suspicious of them. My system solves that problem by helping consumers realize the doctor isn’t pretending they invented these products. This is a more honest approach, in my opinion. That might be controversial, but that’s how I feel.

SAN: It sounds like the cosmetic manufacturers would favor this if you like their line.

Dr. Baumann: My system favors good technology. So the charlatans who are trying to sell stem cell therapies or peptides that don’t work aren’t going to like my system. My system favors the geniuses in the lab who don’t know how to get their technology out there, and I know a lot of them. We’ll be able to find that technology and then launch it through dermatology practices. This helps the genius underdogs who don’t know what to do with what they’ve discovered.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, New York 2002) , and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” will be published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

[email protected]

On Twitter @whitneymcknight

Dermatology has yet to conquer the cosmetic corner of the specialty. That’s according to Dr. Leslie S. Baumann, of the Miami-based, Skin Type Solutions, who explains a new franchise model she says will help “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.”

In this interview, Dr. Baumann, who writes the Cosmeceutical Critique column for Skin & Allergy News, explains her new franchise method for selling skin care products in the dermatologist’s office, and why she thinks it will “disrupt” business as usual in the retail skin care marketplace, including for online retailers.

The following is an edited transcript of the interview, which you can hear in its entirety here.

SAN: Welcome, Dr. Baumann. You recently wrote that you were helping to “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.” Can you expand on that?

Dr. Baumann: I find that most patients really don’t buy their products from dermatologists. They buy them from Sephora, CVS, or the department store, but it’s dermatologists who have years of training about skin, and consumers don’t realize that the dermatologist’s office is the natural choice for where to buy their skin care products. I know that in some parts of the country, access to dermatologists is limited. I think that if a person can see a dermatologist, then that should be where they go for products as well, but that’s not happening. I think dermatologists have done a poor job in getting the word out that we’re the complete skin care experts.

SAN: So, you’ve created a business model to help with this. Please explain how it works.

Dr. Baumann: I love the science of skin care ingredients, and I want to prescribe the right skin care products to my patients. I was at the University of Miami for about 15 years. We didn’t have a huge staff, and I went through the whole skin care evaluation process and created the correct regimen myself. The original evaluation regimen took about 45 minutes, and I realized that patients would probably purchase products from me at first, but the next time, they would buy them somewhere else.

So, I streamlined my approach to make it faster and not require a lot of staff. I determined that I needed to divide patients into skin types. I came up with 16 main skin types, based on four issues: oily vs. dry; sensitive vs. resistant; pigmented vs. unpigmented; and whether the skin is wrinkle-prone. This was the basis of my book, “The Skin Type Solution,” which was a New York Times Bestseller. This showed me that consumers really care about skin products.

The biggest challenge was to get my staff to be able to correctly diagnose the skin type. It took me years to develop my questionnaire, and we have done all kinds of clinical trials to validate it. Now my staff can administer that questionnaire on an iPad, and it automatically calculates the skin type.

The next step was figuring out which products work for each skin type, and then presetting regimens. I found the best products from the companies that had the best technology, and then I tested those on different skin types. I might have five or six products from four or five different brands for one skin type.

SAN: And you are confident that mixing products from the different brands and all the different ingredients won’t somehow irritate the patient’s skin?

Dr. Baumann: I have done a lot of research on cosmetic ingredients; that’s really my core competency. One company might have the best sunscreen technology, but that doesn’t mean they have the best retinol technology, yet every brand feels that pressure to have lots of different products. However, because I do the research trials for the companies, I know each one’s best technology. So, I find the best technology and apply it like a Rubik’s Cube to each skin type’s need, so they always get the best product, and then I test the product. I have been testing this method since 2005.

SAN: What about eponymous skin care lines?

Dr. Baumann: When you go private label, you hire a formulator the way you’d hire a personal chef. That person may not be the scientist who invented that technology. When you have a private label, there is no way you can achieve the same results as you can when you are sourcing products from the best scientists in the world. I know who these people are because I do the research trials. I also know the ingredient supply companies who have the basic scientists in the lab, tinkering with the cell cultures and looking at the mitochondria, so I know where those basic ingredients go. Because I have a large following after the sale of my book and my online blog, I can get volume discounts from the companies. I created a store in the office, and each shelf is color-coded by skin type so it’s easy to know what products to buy,

My friend, who franchised Blimpie’s sandwich shops, was in my office one day watching customers take everything off the shelf and purchase all of it, and he convinced me to franchise it.

It’s important to understand why we chose this model. If you are a cosmetics company, you are not allowed to tell doctors how much to charge for the products because it violates antitrust laws. This allows some people to buy products and then dump them cheaply on the Internet. We control that by having the doctors sign an agreement that they will not sell the products online, and if they do, we cut them off.

SAN: How do you ensure that the products in your franchises aren’t elsewhere on the Internet?

Dr. Baumann: The plan is that once we have enough doctors in the program, we will negotiate with the manufacturers to create products that are exclusive to us.

SAN: Is this a revolution?

Dr. Baumann: That’s the point. It’s putting the power back in the hands of the dermatologist because we are the authorities on skin care. We need to be the ones that people get all the best news and products from first. Just imagine a world where a great new skin care technology comes out, and the only place you can get it is from the dermatologists. That’s going to drive so much business into the dermatologist’s office, and will help dermatologists build their general and cosmetic practice. The beauty of my system is that it trains your staff to identify the most appropriate products for each patient, but I have selected those products. I tested this method in six dermatologists’ offices, and we found that the product exchange rate went from about 35% to 3%. So, when your patient has a better outcome, they are more likely to trust you, and more likely to refer friends to you.

SAN: But what if a patient doesn’t have access to a dermatologist and the model for purchasing skin care products does change? It sounds like it will be harder for them to get the skin care they need.

Dr. Baumann: That is a great question. It’s a problem I have to figure out how to solve. Right now we’re considering Skype consults. This is not considered practicing medicine, so you can do it across state lines.

SAN: Do you plan to franchise dermatologists only or would you also sell the franchise rights to medical spas and physicians other than dermatologists?

Dr. Baumann: That’s really against my philosophy. I want to bring skin care back to the dermatologist. Did you know that only 15 percent of dermatologists sell skin care products in their practice? It’s difficult for them to set the system up and buy products from the different companies. My company streamlines that process. Another reason many dermatologists don’t sell products is because of ethical concerns. I believe if you are offering patients the best products for their skin types, products they can’t get somewhere else, and at the best price, then that is ethical. When you’re just selling things to make money by taking advantage of the patient-doctor relationship, then I am absolutely against it.

SAN: Why might a dermatologist turn away from this franchise model?

Dr. Baumann: There is no reason not to do it, because the startup costs are minimal. The only reason they might not want to do it is if they have their own skin care brand. A doctor could still sell his or her own brand, but they wouldn’t be able to have it on the Skin Type Solutions shelves, and that gets complicated. Based on patient surveys I’ve done, people don’t really want private skin care labels. I think they feel very suspicious of them. My system solves that problem by helping consumers realize the doctor isn’t pretending they invented these products. This is a more honest approach, in my opinion. That might be controversial, but that’s how I feel.

SAN: It sounds like the cosmetic manufacturers would favor this if you like their line.

Dr. Baumann: My system favors good technology. So the charlatans who are trying to sell stem cell therapies or peptides that don’t work aren’t going to like my system. My system favors the geniuses in the lab who don’t know how to get their technology out there, and I know a lot of them. We’ll be able to find that technology and then launch it through dermatology practices. This helps the genius underdogs who don’t know what to do with what they’ve discovered.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, New York 2002) , and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” will be published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

[email protected]

On Twitter @whitneymcknight

Dermatology has yet to conquer the cosmetic corner of the specialty. That’s according to Dr. Leslie S. Baumann of the Miami-based Skin Type Solutions, who explains a new franchise model she says will help “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.”

In this interview, Dr. Baumann, who writes the Cosmeceutical Critique column for Skin & Allergy News, explains her new franchise method for selling skin care products in the dermatologist’s office, and why she thinks it will “disrupt” business as usual in the retail skin care marketplace, including for online retailers.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” will be published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

[email protected]

On Twitter @whitneymcknight

Dermatology has yet to conquer the cosmetic corner of the specialty. That’s according to Dr. Leslie S. Baumann of the Miami-based Skin Type Solutions, who explains a new franchise model she says will help “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.”

In this interview, Dr. Baumann, who writes the Cosmeceutical Critique column for Skin & Allergy News, explains her new franchise method for selling skin care products in the dermatologist’s office, and why she thinks it will “disrupt” business as usual in the retail skin care marketplace, including for online retailers.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” will be published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

[email protected]

On Twitter @whitneymcknight

Dermatology has yet to conquer the cosmetic corner of the specialty. That’s according to Dr. Leslie S. Baumann of the Miami-based Skin Type Solutions, who explains a new franchise model she says will help “put dermatology back in the hands of dermatologists.”

In this interview, Dr. Baumann, who writes the Cosmeceutical Critique column for Skin & Allergy News, explains her new franchise method for selling skin care products in the dermatologist’s office, and why she thinks it will “disrupt” business as usual in the retail skin care marketplace, including for online retailers.

Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” will be published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.

[email protected]

On Twitter @whitneymcknight