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Major increase seen in cosmeceutical alternatives to topical hydroquinone
along with new strategies to improve their efficacy, according to a report at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Ten or 15 years ago, I was showing a slide with five [alternatives to hydroquinone]. Now there are dozens,” reported Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, director of the skin of color division in the department of dermatology at the University of Miami.
The growth in alternatives to hydroquinone is timely. After threats to do so for more than a decade, the Food and Drug Administration finally banned hydroquinone from OTC products in 2020. The ban was folded into the Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security (CARES) Act passed in March of 2020 and then implemented the following September.
Until the ban of hydroquinone, OTC products with this compound were widely sought by many individuals with darker skin tones to self-treat melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation, according to Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. Hydroquinone is still available in prescription products, but she is often asked for OTC alternatives, and she says the list is long and getting longer.
Niacinamide
Detailing the products she has been recommending most frequently as substitutes, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd reported that several are supported by high quality studies. One example is niacinamide.
Of the several controlled studies she cited, one double-blind randomized trial found niacinamide to be equivalent to hydroquinone for melasma on the basis of colorimetric measures. The study compared 4% niacinamide cream applied on one side of the face with 4% hydroquinone cream applied on the other side in 27 patients with melasma. Although the proportion of responses rated good or excellent on a subjective basis was lower with niacinamide (44% vs. 55%), the difference was not statistically significant and niacinamide cream was clearly active, producing objective improvements in mast cell infiltrate and solar elastosis in melasma skin as well. Both were well tolerated.
In other studies, niacinamide has been shown to be effective in the treatment of melasma when combined with other active agents such as tranexamic acid, said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, who added that OTC products containing niacinamide are now “among my favorites” when directing patients to cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation.
Topical vitamin C
Topical vitamin C or ascorbic acid is another. Like niacinamide, topical vitamin C has also been compared with hydroquinone in a double-blind, randomized trial. Although the niacinamide trial and this study were performed 10 or more years ago, these data have new relevance with the ban of OTC hydroquinone.
In the study, 5% ascorbic acid cream on one side of the face was compared with 4% hydroquinone cream, applied on the other side, in 16 women with melasma. Again, there were no statistical differences in colorimetric measures, but good to excellent results were reported for 93% of the sides of the face treated with hydroquinone versus 62.5% of the sides treated with vitamin C (P < .05). “Hydroquinone performed better, but the vitamin C was active and very well tolerated,” Dr. Woolery-Lloyd said.
However, the ascorbic acid cream was better tolerated, with a far lower rate of adverse events (6.2% vs. 68.7%), an advantage that makes it easy to recommend to patients, said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, who now uses it frequently in her own practice.
Liquiritin, a licorice extract, is another lightening agent increasingly included in OTC products that she also recommends. In two older studies in medical journals published in Pakistan, both the 2% and 4% strengths of liquiritin cream outperformed hydroquinone on the basis of a Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) rating. The liquiritin cream was well tolerated in both studies.
Azelaic acid, tranexamic acid
OTC products containing azelaic acid are also effective for hyperpigmentation based on published trials in which they were compared with hydroquinone for treating melasma. In one study of 29 women with melasma cited by Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, 20% azelaic acid cream was more effective than hydroquinone 4% cream after 2 months of treatment on the basis of the mean MASI score (6.2 vs. 3.8).
The list also includes cysteamine, silymarin, and tranexamic acid.
In the case of tranexamic acid, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd cited a relatively recent study of 60 patients with melasma, comparing two strategies for applying tranexamic acid to treatment with hydroquinone over 12 weeks. Compared with 2% hydroquinone (applied nightly) or 1.8% liposomal tranexamic acid (applied twice a day), 5% tranexamic acid solution with microneedling (weekly) had a slightly greater rate of success defined as more than a 50% improvement in hyperpigmentation in an Asian population (30%, 27.8%, and 33.3%, respectively).
“Microneedling is a newer technology that appears to be effective at improving absorption,” said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. She predicts that microneedling will be used with increasing frequency in combination with topical cosmeceuticals.
She also predicted that these topical agents will be increasingly employed in combinations as the field of cosmeceuticals becomes increasingly more sophisticated. “When it comes to skin quality, cosmeceuticals remain our first-line therapy, especially in skin of color,” she said.
The rapid growth and utility of OTC cosmeceuticals is an area that dermatologists need to be following, according to Darius Mehregan, MD, chair of the department of dermatology, Wayne State University, Detroit, who was senior author of an article published last year that reviewed the ingredients of popular OTC cosmeceuticals.
“Our patients have a great interest in cosmeceuticals and are looking to us for guidance. I think we have a responsibility to help them identify products supported by evidence and to warn them about potential side effects,” Dr. Mehregan, who was not at the meeting, said in an interview.
He agreed that the removal of hydroquinone from OTC products will create a specific need in the area of cosmeceuticals.
“Hydroquinone has for a long time been one of the most effective agents in OTC products for melasma, so patients are going to be looking for alternatives. Identifying which drugs have shown efficacy in controlled studies will be very helpful,” he said.
Dr. Woolery-Lloyd reports financial relationships with Ortho Dermatologics, L’Oréal, Galderma, Allergan, and Somabella Laboratories. Dr. Mehregan reports no potential conflicts of interest.
along with new strategies to improve their efficacy, according to a report at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Ten or 15 years ago, I was showing a slide with five [alternatives to hydroquinone]. Now there are dozens,” reported Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, director of the skin of color division in the department of dermatology at the University of Miami.
The growth in alternatives to hydroquinone is timely. After threats to do so for more than a decade, the Food and Drug Administration finally banned hydroquinone from OTC products in 2020. The ban was folded into the Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security (CARES) Act passed in March of 2020 and then implemented the following September.
Until the ban of hydroquinone, OTC products with this compound were widely sought by many individuals with darker skin tones to self-treat melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation, according to Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. Hydroquinone is still available in prescription products, but she is often asked for OTC alternatives, and she says the list is long and getting longer.
Niacinamide
Detailing the products she has been recommending most frequently as substitutes, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd reported that several are supported by high quality studies. One example is niacinamide.
Of the several controlled studies she cited, one double-blind randomized trial found niacinamide to be equivalent to hydroquinone for melasma on the basis of colorimetric measures. The study compared 4% niacinamide cream applied on one side of the face with 4% hydroquinone cream applied on the other side in 27 patients with melasma. Although the proportion of responses rated good or excellent on a subjective basis was lower with niacinamide (44% vs. 55%), the difference was not statistically significant and niacinamide cream was clearly active, producing objective improvements in mast cell infiltrate and solar elastosis in melasma skin as well. Both were well tolerated.
In other studies, niacinamide has been shown to be effective in the treatment of melasma when combined with other active agents such as tranexamic acid, said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, who added that OTC products containing niacinamide are now “among my favorites” when directing patients to cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation.
Topical vitamin C
Topical vitamin C or ascorbic acid is another. Like niacinamide, topical vitamin C has also been compared with hydroquinone in a double-blind, randomized trial. Although the niacinamide trial and this study were performed 10 or more years ago, these data have new relevance with the ban of OTC hydroquinone.
In the study, 5% ascorbic acid cream on one side of the face was compared with 4% hydroquinone cream, applied on the other side, in 16 women with melasma. Again, there were no statistical differences in colorimetric measures, but good to excellent results were reported for 93% of the sides of the face treated with hydroquinone versus 62.5% of the sides treated with vitamin C (P < .05). “Hydroquinone performed better, but the vitamin C was active and very well tolerated,” Dr. Woolery-Lloyd said.
However, the ascorbic acid cream was better tolerated, with a far lower rate of adverse events (6.2% vs. 68.7%), an advantage that makes it easy to recommend to patients, said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, who now uses it frequently in her own practice.
Liquiritin, a licorice extract, is another lightening agent increasingly included in OTC products that she also recommends. In two older studies in medical journals published in Pakistan, both the 2% and 4% strengths of liquiritin cream outperformed hydroquinone on the basis of a Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) rating. The liquiritin cream was well tolerated in both studies.
Azelaic acid, tranexamic acid
OTC products containing azelaic acid are also effective for hyperpigmentation based on published trials in which they were compared with hydroquinone for treating melasma. In one study of 29 women with melasma cited by Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, 20% azelaic acid cream was more effective than hydroquinone 4% cream after 2 months of treatment on the basis of the mean MASI score (6.2 vs. 3.8).
The list also includes cysteamine, silymarin, and tranexamic acid.
In the case of tranexamic acid, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd cited a relatively recent study of 60 patients with melasma, comparing two strategies for applying tranexamic acid to treatment with hydroquinone over 12 weeks. Compared with 2% hydroquinone (applied nightly) or 1.8% liposomal tranexamic acid (applied twice a day), 5% tranexamic acid solution with microneedling (weekly) had a slightly greater rate of success defined as more than a 50% improvement in hyperpigmentation in an Asian population (30%, 27.8%, and 33.3%, respectively).
“Microneedling is a newer technology that appears to be effective at improving absorption,” said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. She predicts that microneedling will be used with increasing frequency in combination with topical cosmeceuticals.
She also predicted that these topical agents will be increasingly employed in combinations as the field of cosmeceuticals becomes increasingly more sophisticated. “When it comes to skin quality, cosmeceuticals remain our first-line therapy, especially in skin of color,” she said.
The rapid growth and utility of OTC cosmeceuticals is an area that dermatologists need to be following, according to Darius Mehregan, MD, chair of the department of dermatology, Wayne State University, Detroit, who was senior author of an article published last year that reviewed the ingredients of popular OTC cosmeceuticals.
“Our patients have a great interest in cosmeceuticals and are looking to us for guidance. I think we have a responsibility to help them identify products supported by evidence and to warn them about potential side effects,” Dr. Mehregan, who was not at the meeting, said in an interview.
He agreed that the removal of hydroquinone from OTC products will create a specific need in the area of cosmeceuticals.
“Hydroquinone has for a long time been one of the most effective agents in OTC products for melasma, so patients are going to be looking for alternatives. Identifying which drugs have shown efficacy in controlled studies will be very helpful,” he said.
Dr. Woolery-Lloyd reports financial relationships with Ortho Dermatologics, L’Oréal, Galderma, Allergan, and Somabella Laboratories. Dr. Mehregan reports no potential conflicts of interest.
along with new strategies to improve their efficacy, according to a report at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Ten or 15 years ago, I was showing a slide with five [alternatives to hydroquinone]. Now there are dozens,” reported Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, director of the skin of color division in the department of dermatology at the University of Miami.
The growth in alternatives to hydroquinone is timely. After threats to do so for more than a decade, the Food and Drug Administration finally banned hydroquinone from OTC products in 2020. The ban was folded into the Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security (CARES) Act passed in March of 2020 and then implemented the following September.
Until the ban of hydroquinone, OTC products with this compound were widely sought by many individuals with darker skin tones to self-treat melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation, according to Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. Hydroquinone is still available in prescription products, but she is often asked for OTC alternatives, and she says the list is long and getting longer.
Niacinamide
Detailing the products she has been recommending most frequently as substitutes, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd reported that several are supported by high quality studies. One example is niacinamide.
Of the several controlled studies she cited, one double-blind randomized trial found niacinamide to be equivalent to hydroquinone for melasma on the basis of colorimetric measures. The study compared 4% niacinamide cream applied on one side of the face with 4% hydroquinone cream applied on the other side in 27 patients with melasma. Although the proportion of responses rated good or excellent on a subjective basis was lower with niacinamide (44% vs. 55%), the difference was not statistically significant and niacinamide cream was clearly active, producing objective improvements in mast cell infiltrate and solar elastosis in melasma skin as well. Both were well tolerated.
In other studies, niacinamide has been shown to be effective in the treatment of melasma when combined with other active agents such as tranexamic acid, said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, who added that OTC products containing niacinamide are now “among my favorites” when directing patients to cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation.
Topical vitamin C
Topical vitamin C or ascorbic acid is another. Like niacinamide, topical vitamin C has also been compared with hydroquinone in a double-blind, randomized trial. Although the niacinamide trial and this study were performed 10 or more years ago, these data have new relevance with the ban of OTC hydroquinone.
In the study, 5% ascorbic acid cream on one side of the face was compared with 4% hydroquinone cream, applied on the other side, in 16 women with melasma. Again, there were no statistical differences in colorimetric measures, but good to excellent results were reported for 93% of the sides of the face treated with hydroquinone versus 62.5% of the sides treated with vitamin C (P < .05). “Hydroquinone performed better, but the vitamin C was active and very well tolerated,” Dr. Woolery-Lloyd said.
However, the ascorbic acid cream was better tolerated, with a far lower rate of adverse events (6.2% vs. 68.7%), an advantage that makes it easy to recommend to patients, said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, who now uses it frequently in her own practice.
Liquiritin, a licorice extract, is another lightening agent increasingly included in OTC products that she also recommends. In two older studies in medical journals published in Pakistan, both the 2% and 4% strengths of liquiritin cream outperformed hydroquinone on the basis of a Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) rating. The liquiritin cream was well tolerated in both studies.
Azelaic acid, tranexamic acid
OTC products containing azelaic acid are also effective for hyperpigmentation based on published trials in which they were compared with hydroquinone for treating melasma. In one study of 29 women with melasma cited by Dr. Woolery-Lloyd, 20% azelaic acid cream was more effective than hydroquinone 4% cream after 2 months of treatment on the basis of the mean MASI score (6.2 vs. 3.8).
The list also includes cysteamine, silymarin, and tranexamic acid.
In the case of tranexamic acid, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd cited a relatively recent study of 60 patients with melasma, comparing two strategies for applying tranexamic acid to treatment with hydroquinone over 12 weeks. Compared with 2% hydroquinone (applied nightly) or 1.8% liposomal tranexamic acid (applied twice a day), 5% tranexamic acid solution with microneedling (weekly) had a slightly greater rate of success defined as more than a 50% improvement in hyperpigmentation in an Asian population (30%, 27.8%, and 33.3%, respectively).
“Microneedling is a newer technology that appears to be effective at improving absorption,” said Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. She predicts that microneedling will be used with increasing frequency in combination with topical cosmeceuticals.
She also predicted that these topical agents will be increasingly employed in combinations as the field of cosmeceuticals becomes increasingly more sophisticated. “When it comes to skin quality, cosmeceuticals remain our first-line therapy, especially in skin of color,” she said.
The rapid growth and utility of OTC cosmeceuticals is an area that dermatologists need to be following, according to Darius Mehregan, MD, chair of the department of dermatology, Wayne State University, Detroit, who was senior author of an article published last year that reviewed the ingredients of popular OTC cosmeceuticals.
“Our patients have a great interest in cosmeceuticals and are looking to us for guidance. I think we have a responsibility to help them identify products supported by evidence and to warn them about potential side effects,” Dr. Mehregan, who was not at the meeting, said in an interview.
He agreed that the removal of hydroquinone from OTC products will create a specific need in the area of cosmeceuticals.
“Hydroquinone has for a long time been one of the most effective agents in OTC products for melasma, so patients are going to be looking for alternatives. Identifying which drugs have shown efficacy in controlled studies will be very helpful,” he said.
Dr. Woolery-Lloyd reports financial relationships with Ortho Dermatologics, L’Oréal, Galderma, Allergan, and Somabella Laboratories. Dr. Mehregan reports no potential conflicts of interest.
FROM SOC 2021
Lessons from an ethnic skin center: Awareness and respect for diversity
With the strong likelihood that , according to a dermatologist with expertise in these types of cases who spoke at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Instead of avoiding the discussion of cultural practices, we should discuss them and be open about them. It fosters a comfortable environment, trust, and better compliance,” reported Neelam Ajit Vashi, MD, founding director of the Boston University Center for Ethnic Skin.
Out of fear of causing offense, a desire to be discreet, or of personal discomfort with foreign cultural practices, some clinicians might elect to limit themselves to the information that the patient volunteers, which is a mistake, according to Dr. Vashi.
“The avoidance of topics around culture actually limits the ability to have a successful relationship,” she maintained.
Successful encounters are not just based on a willingness to listen, Dr. Vashi said. Clinicians should be seeking a base of knowledge. With growing globalization and widespread immigration, “it is increasingly important for dermatologists in the U.S. to understand the role of cultural practices [in creating skin problems] and recognize the sequelae,” Dr. Vashi said.
Taking some common examples of dermatologic complaints created by cosmetic practices originating elsewhere, Dr. Vashi described key clinical points in addressing complications related to henna, hair removal through threading, and placement of decorative adornments on the forehead, called bindi. In addition, she pointed out common issues with facial and body marking created with kumkum powder, hair oils, and skin lightening agents.
Black henna
For cosmetic enhancement, henna is relatively benign. It is also no longer confined to the south Asian communities where it originated. However, Dr. Vashi pointed out that patients of south Asian origin or descent might be more likely to use black henna, a variety with more risks.
Black henna contains additives, such as diaminobenzenes and p-phenylenediamine (PPD), to darken the tone of the product as well as provide other desired characteristics, such as an accelerated drying time. While some patients do develop reactions to conventional henna, the risks of black henna are greater.
“The acute contact dermatitis reactions can include dyspigmentation, leukoderma, and keloids,” Dr. Vashi said. Other complications include erythema multiforme, temporary hypertrichosis, and systemic allergic reactions, such as angioedema.
While those who have had a reaction to henna should avoid further contact, Dr. Vashi warned that sequelae can include cross reactions with latex and rubber as well as some pharmaceutical agents, such as sulfonamides. When taking a patient history, she noted, be aware that risks of henna extend to the hairdressers and cosmeticians who sometimes apply these products on others.
Hair threading, bindi, and kumkum
Hair threading, another practice popularized in south Asia and now growing in popularity globally, involves capturing hairs between cotton threads for removal of both the hair and its follicle. It is a relatively rapid and efficient method of permanent depilation. In addition to pain and erythema, Dr. Vashi reported that the complications associated with hair threading include pigmentary changes, infections such as bullous impetigo, and lesions of koebnerization – such as vitiligo and lichen planus.
Bindi, a Hindi tradition that involves placing adornments between the eyebrows, and kumkum, a powder typically made from turmeric to be employed for decorative markings, have also spread to use outside of their cultural context, according to Dr. Vashi. She said that the complications of these two cosmetic practices are shared, and stem largely from contact dermatitis.
In the case of bindi, para-tertiary-butylphenol in adhesives is one source of reactions, whereas kumkum itself can be an irritant. As these are typically local to the site of application, the diagnosis is not difficult, but treatment can be more challenging for patients unwilling to abandon the practice.
Hair oils, skin-lightening agents
Culturally-linked hair oils among patients from south Asia or Africa – or descendants from these areas – can damage hair in a variety of ways as well as cause contact dermatitis. The oils can also exacerbate existing skin diseases.
“Oils with high oleic acid, such as coconut or olive oils or shea butter, can worsen seborrheic dermatitis,” Dr. Vashi cautioned.
Of this list of dermatologic issues induced by culturally linked cosmetic practices, skin lightening agents might pose the most risk for permanent and irreversible complications. Dr. Vashi said that up to 70% of patients using lighteners develop complications, and there is a relationship between the severity of side effects as duration of use increases.
“The problem is that ingredients of many of these products, which are imported illegally and sold on the black market, are often not disclosed,” Dr. Vashi said. Some contain a high content of metals such as lead, copper, and iron, whether they are added intentionally or end up in the product because of poor quality control. For those developing adverse events associated with the products, the obvious treatment is discontinuation.
When patients are unwilling to discontinue any of the products that have led to dermatologic issues, Dr. Vashi encouraged physicians “to take a middle ground.” Simple avoidance can be challenging for practices that are culturally meaningful. In respecting cultural differences, she encouraged tolerance and compromise.
“Often these patients will be doing an alternative medication or intervention, but this does not mean that they are not accepting what we have to offer,” she said. She indicated that mutual respect will lead to better solutions.
The awareness of common cultural practices that can have a harmful impact on the skin is an area of practice that deserves more attention, Andrew F. Alexis, MD, vice-chair for diversity and inclusion in the department of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical Center, New York, said in an interview.
He said that he agreed with Dr. Vashi that understanding the role of cultural practices leading to dermatoses is not enough.
“Advising patients to alter or discontinue a specific cultural practice due to a dermatologic complication should be done with respect, humility, and understanding that may be challenging,” said Dr. Alexis.
While being aware of the specific cultural practices that might be causing or exacerbating dermatoses is important for accurate diagnosis, he said he believes that “partnering with the patient to modify the cultural practices in question” is important for a clinical outcome acceptable to the patient.
“Educational resources to inform clinicians of dermatoses associated with cultural practices are available and can be helpful for dermatologists in any practice setting,” he said.
Dr. Vashi reports that she has no relevant financial relationships to disclose. Dr. Alexis reports financial relationships with Abbvie, Allergan, Almirall, Amgen, Arcutis, AstraZeneca, Bristol-Myers Squibb, Cara, Galderma, Genzyme, Janssen, Leo, Menlo, Novartis, Regeneron, Sanofi, and Valeant.
With the strong likelihood that , according to a dermatologist with expertise in these types of cases who spoke at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Instead of avoiding the discussion of cultural practices, we should discuss them and be open about them. It fosters a comfortable environment, trust, and better compliance,” reported Neelam Ajit Vashi, MD, founding director of the Boston University Center for Ethnic Skin.
Out of fear of causing offense, a desire to be discreet, or of personal discomfort with foreign cultural practices, some clinicians might elect to limit themselves to the information that the patient volunteers, which is a mistake, according to Dr. Vashi.
“The avoidance of topics around culture actually limits the ability to have a successful relationship,” she maintained.
Successful encounters are not just based on a willingness to listen, Dr. Vashi said. Clinicians should be seeking a base of knowledge. With growing globalization and widespread immigration, “it is increasingly important for dermatologists in the U.S. to understand the role of cultural practices [in creating skin problems] and recognize the sequelae,” Dr. Vashi said.
Taking some common examples of dermatologic complaints created by cosmetic practices originating elsewhere, Dr. Vashi described key clinical points in addressing complications related to henna, hair removal through threading, and placement of decorative adornments on the forehead, called bindi. In addition, she pointed out common issues with facial and body marking created with kumkum powder, hair oils, and skin lightening agents.
Black henna
For cosmetic enhancement, henna is relatively benign. It is also no longer confined to the south Asian communities where it originated. However, Dr. Vashi pointed out that patients of south Asian origin or descent might be more likely to use black henna, a variety with more risks.
Black henna contains additives, such as diaminobenzenes and p-phenylenediamine (PPD), to darken the tone of the product as well as provide other desired characteristics, such as an accelerated drying time. While some patients do develop reactions to conventional henna, the risks of black henna are greater.
“The acute contact dermatitis reactions can include dyspigmentation, leukoderma, and keloids,” Dr. Vashi said. Other complications include erythema multiforme, temporary hypertrichosis, and systemic allergic reactions, such as angioedema.
While those who have had a reaction to henna should avoid further contact, Dr. Vashi warned that sequelae can include cross reactions with latex and rubber as well as some pharmaceutical agents, such as sulfonamides. When taking a patient history, she noted, be aware that risks of henna extend to the hairdressers and cosmeticians who sometimes apply these products on others.
Hair threading, bindi, and kumkum
Hair threading, another practice popularized in south Asia and now growing in popularity globally, involves capturing hairs between cotton threads for removal of both the hair and its follicle. It is a relatively rapid and efficient method of permanent depilation. In addition to pain and erythema, Dr. Vashi reported that the complications associated with hair threading include pigmentary changes, infections such as bullous impetigo, and lesions of koebnerization – such as vitiligo and lichen planus.
Bindi, a Hindi tradition that involves placing adornments between the eyebrows, and kumkum, a powder typically made from turmeric to be employed for decorative markings, have also spread to use outside of their cultural context, according to Dr. Vashi. She said that the complications of these two cosmetic practices are shared, and stem largely from contact dermatitis.
In the case of bindi, para-tertiary-butylphenol in adhesives is one source of reactions, whereas kumkum itself can be an irritant. As these are typically local to the site of application, the diagnosis is not difficult, but treatment can be more challenging for patients unwilling to abandon the practice.
Hair oils, skin-lightening agents
Culturally-linked hair oils among patients from south Asia or Africa – or descendants from these areas – can damage hair in a variety of ways as well as cause contact dermatitis. The oils can also exacerbate existing skin diseases.
“Oils with high oleic acid, such as coconut or olive oils or shea butter, can worsen seborrheic dermatitis,” Dr. Vashi cautioned.
Of this list of dermatologic issues induced by culturally linked cosmetic practices, skin lightening agents might pose the most risk for permanent and irreversible complications. Dr. Vashi said that up to 70% of patients using lighteners develop complications, and there is a relationship between the severity of side effects as duration of use increases.
“The problem is that ingredients of many of these products, which are imported illegally and sold on the black market, are often not disclosed,” Dr. Vashi said. Some contain a high content of metals such as lead, copper, and iron, whether they are added intentionally or end up in the product because of poor quality control. For those developing adverse events associated with the products, the obvious treatment is discontinuation.
When patients are unwilling to discontinue any of the products that have led to dermatologic issues, Dr. Vashi encouraged physicians “to take a middle ground.” Simple avoidance can be challenging for practices that are culturally meaningful. In respecting cultural differences, she encouraged tolerance and compromise.
“Often these patients will be doing an alternative medication or intervention, but this does not mean that they are not accepting what we have to offer,” she said. She indicated that mutual respect will lead to better solutions.
The awareness of common cultural practices that can have a harmful impact on the skin is an area of practice that deserves more attention, Andrew F. Alexis, MD, vice-chair for diversity and inclusion in the department of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical Center, New York, said in an interview.
He said that he agreed with Dr. Vashi that understanding the role of cultural practices leading to dermatoses is not enough.
“Advising patients to alter or discontinue a specific cultural practice due to a dermatologic complication should be done with respect, humility, and understanding that may be challenging,” said Dr. Alexis.
While being aware of the specific cultural practices that might be causing or exacerbating dermatoses is important for accurate diagnosis, he said he believes that “partnering with the patient to modify the cultural practices in question” is important for a clinical outcome acceptable to the patient.
“Educational resources to inform clinicians of dermatoses associated with cultural practices are available and can be helpful for dermatologists in any practice setting,” he said.
Dr. Vashi reports that she has no relevant financial relationships to disclose. Dr. Alexis reports financial relationships with Abbvie, Allergan, Almirall, Amgen, Arcutis, AstraZeneca, Bristol-Myers Squibb, Cara, Galderma, Genzyme, Janssen, Leo, Menlo, Novartis, Regeneron, Sanofi, and Valeant.
With the strong likelihood that , according to a dermatologist with expertise in these types of cases who spoke at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Instead of avoiding the discussion of cultural practices, we should discuss them and be open about them. It fosters a comfortable environment, trust, and better compliance,” reported Neelam Ajit Vashi, MD, founding director of the Boston University Center for Ethnic Skin.
Out of fear of causing offense, a desire to be discreet, or of personal discomfort with foreign cultural practices, some clinicians might elect to limit themselves to the information that the patient volunteers, which is a mistake, according to Dr. Vashi.
“The avoidance of topics around culture actually limits the ability to have a successful relationship,” she maintained.
Successful encounters are not just based on a willingness to listen, Dr. Vashi said. Clinicians should be seeking a base of knowledge. With growing globalization and widespread immigration, “it is increasingly important for dermatologists in the U.S. to understand the role of cultural practices [in creating skin problems] and recognize the sequelae,” Dr. Vashi said.
Taking some common examples of dermatologic complaints created by cosmetic practices originating elsewhere, Dr. Vashi described key clinical points in addressing complications related to henna, hair removal through threading, and placement of decorative adornments on the forehead, called bindi. In addition, she pointed out common issues with facial and body marking created with kumkum powder, hair oils, and skin lightening agents.
Black henna
For cosmetic enhancement, henna is relatively benign. It is also no longer confined to the south Asian communities where it originated. However, Dr. Vashi pointed out that patients of south Asian origin or descent might be more likely to use black henna, a variety with more risks.
Black henna contains additives, such as diaminobenzenes and p-phenylenediamine (PPD), to darken the tone of the product as well as provide other desired characteristics, such as an accelerated drying time. While some patients do develop reactions to conventional henna, the risks of black henna are greater.
“The acute contact dermatitis reactions can include dyspigmentation, leukoderma, and keloids,” Dr. Vashi said. Other complications include erythema multiforme, temporary hypertrichosis, and systemic allergic reactions, such as angioedema.
While those who have had a reaction to henna should avoid further contact, Dr. Vashi warned that sequelae can include cross reactions with latex and rubber as well as some pharmaceutical agents, such as sulfonamides. When taking a patient history, she noted, be aware that risks of henna extend to the hairdressers and cosmeticians who sometimes apply these products on others.
Hair threading, bindi, and kumkum
Hair threading, another practice popularized in south Asia and now growing in popularity globally, involves capturing hairs between cotton threads for removal of both the hair and its follicle. It is a relatively rapid and efficient method of permanent depilation. In addition to pain and erythema, Dr. Vashi reported that the complications associated with hair threading include pigmentary changes, infections such as bullous impetigo, and lesions of koebnerization – such as vitiligo and lichen planus.
Bindi, a Hindi tradition that involves placing adornments between the eyebrows, and kumkum, a powder typically made from turmeric to be employed for decorative markings, have also spread to use outside of their cultural context, according to Dr. Vashi. She said that the complications of these two cosmetic practices are shared, and stem largely from contact dermatitis.
In the case of bindi, para-tertiary-butylphenol in adhesives is one source of reactions, whereas kumkum itself can be an irritant. As these are typically local to the site of application, the diagnosis is not difficult, but treatment can be more challenging for patients unwilling to abandon the practice.
Hair oils, skin-lightening agents
Culturally-linked hair oils among patients from south Asia or Africa – or descendants from these areas – can damage hair in a variety of ways as well as cause contact dermatitis. The oils can also exacerbate existing skin diseases.
“Oils with high oleic acid, such as coconut or olive oils or shea butter, can worsen seborrheic dermatitis,” Dr. Vashi cautioned.
Of this list of dermatologic issues induced by culturally linked cosmetic practices, skin lightening agents might pose the most risk for permanent and irreversible complications. Dr. Vashi said that up to 70% of patients using lighteners develop complications, and there is a relationship between the severity of side effects as duration of use increases.
“The problem is that ingredients of many of these products, which are imported illegally and sold on the black market, are often not disclosed,” Dr. Vashi said. Some contain a high content of metals such as lead, copper, and iron, whether they are added intentionally or end up in the product because of poor quality control. For those developing adverse events associated with the products, the obvious treatment is discontinuation.
When patients are unwilling to discontinue any of the products that have led to dermatologic issues, Dr. Vashi encouraged physicians “to take a middle ground.” Simple avoidance can be challenging for practices that are culturally meaningful. In respecting cultural differences, she encouraged tolerance and compromise.
“Often these patients will be doing an alternative medication or intervention, but this does not mean that they are not accepting what we have to offer,” she said. She indicated that mutual respect will lead to better solutions.
The awareness of common cultural practices that can have a harmful impact on the skin is an area of practice that deserves more attention, Andrew F. Alexis, MD, vice-chair for diversity and inclusion in the department of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical Center, New York, said in an interview.
He said that he agreed with Dr. Vashi that understanding the role of cultural practices leading to dermatoses is not enough.
“Advising patients to alter or discontinue a specific cultural practice due to a dermatologic complication should be done with respect, humility, and understanding that may be challenging,” said Dr. Alexis.
While being aware of the specific cultural practices that might be causing or exacerbating dermatoses is important for accurate diagnosis, he said he believes that “partnering with the patient to modify the cultural practices in question” is important for a clinical outcome acceptable to the patient.
“Educational resources to inform clinicians of dermatoses associated with cultural practices are available and can be helpful for dermatologists in any practice setting,” he said.
Dr. Vashi reports that she has no relevant financial relationships to disclose. Dr. Alexis reports financial relationships with Abbvie, Allergan, Almirall, Amgen, Arcutis, AstraZeneca, Bristol-Myers Squibb, Cara, Galderma, Genzyme, Janssen, Leo, Menlo, Novartis, Regeneron, Sanofi, and Valeant.
FROM SOC 2021
Rapid response needed for rare filler injection complications
if not promptly addressed, according to an expert explaining the signs of an impending disaster at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
The most serious of the adverse events stem from vascular compromise, which is often signaled immediately by sharp pain and blanching of the skin, according to Hassan Galadari, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at the United Arab Emirates University, Dubai.
“Swift and aggressive treatment is required to avoid irreversible changes,” said Dr. Galadari, warning that blindness and vision impairment can be permanent, and that other events associated with vascular compromise include stroke and other types of embolism, as well as tissue necrosis.
To be swift, Dr. Galadari advised an immediate halt of injections and then a series of steps to abort the vascular insult. The goal is to encourage blood flow to prevent clotting and dissipate the filler.
“Massage the area like crazy. Keep on massaging. The more you massage the better. You are recruiting blood into that area so it remains viable,” Dr. Galadari said.
Hyaluronidase injections helpful
Warm compresses should also be applied for periods ranging from 5 minutes up to an hour, he added. In patients treated with hyaluronic acid, he also commonly introduces hyaluronidase injections of 200-500 IU diluted in lidocaine or saline. The injections are placed 2-3 cm apart and repeated every hour until signs and symptoms improve.
“Flush all of the filler out,” he said, emphasizing the urgency for reversing risk of vascular adverse events.
To sustain blood flow and avoid clots, he also recommends initiating aspirin with maintenance doses sustained over several days. Sildenafil to further improve conditions of blood perfusion can be “considered.”
The risks of vascular compromise, like other complications from filler injections, are low, but they are not zero, and the opportunity to prevent irreversible changes depends on acting quickly, according to Dr. Galadari.
“To prevent embolism, recognize the danger zones,” he advised, identifying the glabella region as the site of highest risk. The risk of vascular compromise from injections into the nasal region is lower but higher than injections of the nasolabial fold and forehead, which are associated with a relatively low risk.
Slow injections reduce risks
Some basic strategies he recommended for preventing vascular compromise included slow injections while keeping pressure low and using small volumes of filler per shot. Fractionated treatment and microdroplet techniques can be appropriate depending on the site of injection.
“Delivery of the filler by cannulas rather than by needles is preferable,” according to Dr. Galadari, who noted that a task force from the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery recently endorsed this approach as part of other recommendations to avoid complications of injectable fillers.
The Food and Drug Administration’s Manufacturer and User Facility Device Experience (MAUDE) database suggests that adverse events of any substantial severity from filler injections, not just those involving vascular compromise, occur at a rate of 1 per 3,600 cases. However, MAUDE is a passive surveillance system dependent on reports provided by clinicians and others, so this event rate might be an underrepresentation.
In the MAUDE database, complication rates are listed for each of the available filler products and show a variation in rates not just overall but also for each of the major types of complications, which include skin-specific complications such as nodules, discoloration, and inflammation, as well as neurologic adverse events, infection, and vascular compromise, Dr. Galadari reported.
Filler products are not interchangeable
Again, because of passive data collection, it is not clear whether the differences between products is a true representation of relative risk. Nevertheless, Dr. Galadari cautioned that these products are not necessarily interchangeable, advising clinicians to avoid products without an established safety track record.
There are a wide variety of fillers, including biostimulatory products, such as poly-L-lactic acid and calcium hydroxyapatite, and permanent fillers, such as silicone, in addition to collagen and hyaluronic acid, which function as temporary fillers, according to Dr. Galadari. He emphasized that the specific risks of each filler vary, but clinicians should always respond quickly whenever there is an adverse reaction or evidence of vascular compromise.
In flushing out filler, Cheryl M. Burgess, MD, of the Center for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery, Washington, who spoke at the meeting, also emphasized a prompt response. She too employs hyaluronidase injections to break down excess hyaluronic acid in the event of complications related to this filler.
Importantly, Dr. Burgess pointed out that hyaluronic acid can be considered safe for darker skin types, including Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, but she added that speed of injection might be a particularly important variable for cosmetic procedures in skin of color.
“There is less postinflammatory hyperpigmentation with slower injection times and more with serial or multiple puncture injection technique,” she cautioned.
She further concurred with the value of cannulas over needles in most instances for facial contouring applications with filler, but she encouraged clinicians not to be overly ambitious and to move gradually toward goals.
“The desired outcome may require multiple sessions with conservative measures,” she said, indicating that conservative measures also represent a strategy to avoid adverse events.
if not promptly addressed, according to an expert explaining the signs of an impending disaster at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
The most serious of the adverse events stem from vascular compromise, which is often signaled immediately by sharp pain and blanching of the skin, according to Hassan Galadari, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at the United Arab Emirates University, Dubai.
“Swift and aggressive treatment is required to avoid irreversible changes,” said Dr. Galadari, warning that blindness and vision impairment can be permanent, and that other events associated with vascular compromise include stroke and other types of embolism, as well as tissue necrosis.
To be swift, Dr. Galadari advised an immediate halt of injections and then a series of steps to abort the vascular insult. The goal is to encourage blood flow to prevent clotting and dissipate the filler.
“Massage the area like crazy. Keep on massaging. The more you massage the better. You are recruiting blood into that area so it remains viable,” Dr. Galadari said.
Hyaluronidase injections helpful
Warm compresses should also be applied for periods ranging from 5 minutes up to an hour, he added. In patients treated with hyaluronic acid, he also commonly introduces hyaluronidase injections of 200-500 IU diluted in lidocaine or saline. The injections are placed 2-3 cm apart and repeated every hour until signs and symptoms improve.
“Flush all of the filler out,” he said, emphasizing the urgency for reversing risk of vascular adverse events.
To sustain blood flow and avoid clots, he also recommends initiating aspirin with maintenance doses sustained over several days. Sildenafil to further improve conditions of blood perfusion can be “considered.”
The risks of vascular compromise, like other complications from filler injections, are low, but they are not zero, and the opportunity to prevent irreversible changes depends on acting quickly, according to Dr. Galadari.
“To prevent embolism, recognize the danger zones,” he advised, identifying the glabella region as the site of highest risk. The risk of vascular compromise from injections into the nasal region is lower but higher than injections of the nasolabial fold and forehead, which are associated with a relatively low risk.
Slow injections reduce risks
Some basic strategies he recommended for preventing vascular compromise included slow injections while keeping pressure low and using small volumes of filler per shot. Fractionated treatment and microdroplet techniques can be appropriate depending on the site of injection.
“Delivery of the filler by cannulas rather than by needles is preferable,” according to Dr. Galadari, who noted that a task force from the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery recently endorsed this approach as part of other recommendations to avoid complications of injectable fillers.
The Food and Drug Administration’s Manufacturer and User Facility Device Experience (MAUDE) database suggests that adverse events of any substantial severity from filler injections, not just those involving vascular compromise, occur at a rate of 1 per 3,600 cases. However, MAUDE is a passive surveillance system dependent on reports provided by clinicians and others, so this event rate might be an underrepresentation.
In the MAUDE database, complication rates are listed for each of the available filler products and show a variation in rates not just overall but also for each of the major types of complications, which include skin-specific complications such as nodules, discoloration, and inflammation, as well as neurologic adverse events, infection, and vascular compromise, Dr. Galadari reported.
Filler products are not interchangeable
Again, because of passive data collection, it is not clear whether the differences between products is a true representation of relative risk. Nevertheless, Dr. Galadari cautioned that these products are not necessarily interchangeable, advising clinicians to avoid products without an established safety track record.
There are a wide variety of fillers, including biostimulatory products, such as poly-L-lactic acid and calcium hydroxyapatite, and permanent fillers, such as silicone, in addition to collagen and hyaluronic acid, which function as temporary fillers, according to Dr. Galadari. He emphasized that the specific risks of each filler vary, but clinicians should always respond quickly whenever there is an adverse reaction or evidence of vascular compromise.
In flushing out filler, Cheryl M. Burgess, MD, of the Center for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery, Washington, who spoke at the meeting, also emphasized a prompt response. She too employs hyaluronidase injections to break down excess hyaluronic acid in the event of complications related to this filler.
Importantly, Dr. Burgess pointed out that hyaluronic acid can be considered safe for darker skin types, including Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, but she added that speed of injection might be a particularly important variable for cosmetic procedures in skin of color.
“There is less postinflammatory hyperpigmentation with slower injection times and more with serial or multiple puncture injection technique,” she cautioned.
She further concurred with the value of cannulas over needles in most instances for facial contouring applications with filler, but she encouraged clinicians not to be overly ambitious and to move gradually toward goals.
“The desired outcome may require multiple sessions with conservative measures,” she said, indicating that conservative measures also represent a strategy to avoid adverse events.
if not promptly addressed, according to an expert explaining the signs of an impending disaster at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
The most serious of the adverse events stem from vascular compromise, which is often signaled immediately by sharp pain and blanching of the skin, according to Hassan Galadari, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at the United Arab Emirates University, Dubai.
“Swift and aggressive treatment is required to avoid irreversible changes,” said Dr. Galadari, warning that blindness and vision impairment can be permanent, and that other events associated with vascular compromise include stroke and other types of embolism, as well as tissue necrosis.
To be swift, Dr. Galadari advised an immediate halt of injections and then a series of steps to abort the vascular insult. The goal is to encourage blood flow to prevent clotting and dissipate the filler.
“Massage the area like crazy. Keep on massaging. The more you massage the better. You are recruiting blood into that area so it remains viable,” Dr. Galadari said.
Hyaluronidase injections helpful
Warm compresses should also be applied for periods ranging from 5 minutes up to an hour, he added. In patients treated with hyaluronic acid, he also commonly introduces hyaluronidase injections of 200-500 IU diluted in lidocaine or saline. The injections are placed 2-3 cm apart and repeated every hour until signs and symptoms improve.
“Flush all of the filler out,” he said, emphasizing the urgency for reversing risk of vascular adverse events.
To sustain blood flow and avoid clots, he also recommends initiating aspirin with maintenance doses sustained over several days. Sildenafil to further improve conditions of blood perfusion can be “considered.”
The risks of vascular compromise, like other complications from filler injections, are low, but they are not zero, and the opportunity to prevent irreversible changes depends on acting quickly, according to Dr. Galadari.
“To prevent embolism, recognize the danger zones,” he advised, identifying the glabella region as the site of highest risk. The risk of vascular compromise from injections into the nasal region is lower but higher than injections of the nasolabial fold and forehead, which are associated with a relatively low risk.
Slow injections reduce risks
Some basic strategies he recommended for preventing vascular compromise included slow injections while keeping pressure low and using small volumes of filler per shot. Fractionated treatment and microdroplet techniques can be appropriate depending on the site of injection.
“Delivery of the filler by cannulas rather than by needles is preferable,” according to Dr. Galadari, who noted that a task force from the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery recently endorsed this approach as part of other recommendations to avoid complications of injectable fillers.
The Food and Drug Administration’s Manufacturer and User Facility Device Experience (MAUDE) database suggests that adverse events of any substantial severity from filler injections, not just those involving vascular compromise, occur at a rate of 1 per 3,600 cases. However, MAUDE is a passive surveillance system dependent on reports provided by clinicians and others, so this event rate might be an underrepresentation.
In the MAUDE database, complication rates are listed for each of the available filler products and show a variation in rates not just overall but also for each of the major types of complications, which include skin-specific complications such as nodules, discoloration, and inflammation, as well as neurologic adverse events, infection, and vascular compromise, Dr. Galadari reported.
Filler products are not interchangeable
Again, because of passive data collection, it is not clear whether the differences between products is a true representation of relative risk. Nevertheless, Dr. Galadari cautioned that these products are not necessarily interchangeable, advising clinicians to avoid products without an established safety track record.
There are a wide variety of fillers, including biostimulatory products, such as poly-L-lactic acid and calcium hydroxyapatite, and permanent fillers, such as silicone, in addition to collagen and hyaluronic acid, which function as temporary fillers, according to Dr. Galadari. He emphasized that the specific risks of each filler vary, but clinicians should always respond quickly whenever there is an adverse reaction or evidence of vascular compromise.
In flushing out filler, Cheryl M. Burgess, MD, of the Center for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery, Washington, who spoke at the meeting, also emphasized a prompt response. She too employs hyaluronidase injections to break down excess hyaluronic acid in the event of complications related to this filler.
Importantly, Dr. Burgess pointed out that hyaluronic acid can be considered safe for darker skin types, including Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, but she added that speed of injection might be a particularly important variable for cosmetic procedures in skin of color.
“There is less postinflammatory hyperpigmentation with slower injection times and more with serial or multiple puncture injection technique,” she cautioned.
She further concurred with the value of cannulas over needles in most instances for facial contouring applications with filler, but she encouraged clinicians not to be overly ambitious and to move gradually toward goals.
“The desired outcome may require multiple sessions with conservative measures,” she said, indicating that conservative measures also represent a strategy to avoid adverse events.
FROM SOC 2021
Ketosis, including ketogenic diets, implicated in prurigo pigmentosa
, according to a dermatologist, who reviewed skin conditions common to patients of Asian descent at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Ketogenic diets are gaining popularity globally for weight loss. After 2-4 weeks [on a strict ketogenic diet], some patients start to notice very pruritic papules on their trunk, the so-called keto rash,” reported Hye Jin Chung, MD, director of the Asian Skin Clinic, Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center, Boston. “Keto rash is actually prurigo pigmentosa.”
The exact pathogenesis of prurigo pigmentosa, a highly pruritic macular and papular rash with gross reticular pigmentation, is unclear, but Dr. Chung reported that the strong link with ketosis might explain why more cases are now being encountered outside of east Asia. Ketosis or conditions associated with a high risk for ketosis, such as anorexia nervosa, diabetes mellitus, or recent bariatric surgery, have been linked to prurigo pigmentosa in all skin types and ethnicities.
“I tell my residents that this is a disease you will never forget after your first case,” she said.
The differential diagnosis includes contact dermatitis and other inflammatory disorders, but Dr. Chung said that the reticular pattern of the lesions is a relatively unique feature. Confluent and reticulated papillomatosis (CARP) shares a pattern of reticulated lesions, but Dr. Chung said it lacks the inflammatory erythematous papules and the severe pruritus common to prurigo pigmentosa.
Histologically, the pattern evolves. It begins as a perivascular infiltration dominated by neutrophils and eosinophils with hyperkeratosis, acanthosis, and spongiosis. Over time, Dr. Chung said that the histologic picture shows an increasing degree of dyskeratosis as keratinocytes die.
Prurigo pigmentosa was first described 50 years ago by Masaji Nagashima, MD, who published a report on eight patients in Japan with a pruriginous truncal dermatosis featuring symmetrical pigmentation. Most subsequent reports were also from Japan or other east Asian countries, but it has since spread.
This global spread was captured in a recently published review of 115 published studies and case reports from 24 countries. In this review, the proportion of studies from Europe (36.5%) approached that of those from east Asia (38.2%), even if 76% of the patients for whom race was reported were of Asian ethnicity.
Of the 369 patients evaluated in these studies and case reports, 72.1% were female. The mean age was 25.6 years. In the studies originating outside of Asia, prurigo pigmentosa was reported in a spectrum of skin types and ethnicities, including Whites, Blacks, and Hispanics. The lowest reported incidence has been in the latter two groups, but the authors of the review speculated that this condition is likely being underdiagnosed in non-Asian individuals.
Dr. Chung agreed, and she cautioned that the consequences typically result in a significant delay for achieving disease control. In recounting a recent case of prurigo pigmentosa at her center, she said that the 59-year-old Asian patient had been initiated on topical steroids and oral antihistamines by her primary care physician before she was referred. This is a common and reasonable strategy for a highly pruritic rash potentially caused by contact dermatitis, but it is ineffective for this disorder.
“Prurigo pigmentosa requires anti-inflammatory agents,” she explained. She said that doxycycline and minocycline are the treatments of choice, but noted that there are also reports of efficacy with dapsone, macrolide antibiotics, and isotretinoin.
In her most recent case, she initiated the patient on 100 mg of doxycycline twice daily. There was significant improvement within 2 weeks, and the rash resolved within a month with no relapse in follow-up that now exceeds 12 months, Dr. Chung said.
According to Dr. Chung, Asian-Americans are the most rapidly growing ethnic group in the United States, making it increasingly important to be familiar with conditions common or unique to Asian skin, but prurigo pigmentosa is no longer confined to those of Asian descent. She encouraged clinicians to recognize this disorder to reduce the common delays to effective treatment.
The senior author of the recently published review of studies, Jensen Yeung, MD, of the department of dermatology, University of Toronto, agreed. He, too, believes that dermatologists need to increase their awareness of the signs and symptoms of prurigo pigmentosa – and not just in Asian patients or patients of Asian descent.
“This diagnosis is often missed,” he contended in an interview. “This condition has become more common in the past 5 years in my clinical experience.” He added that the increasing incidence might not just be related to better diagnostic accuracy, although the most significant of other possible explanations “is not yet well understood.”
Dr. Chung reports that she has no relevant financial relationships to disclose. Dr. Yeung reports financial relationships with more than 25 pharmaceutical companies, some of which produce treatments employed in the control of prurigo pigmentosa.
, according to a dermatologist, who reviewed skin conditions common to patients of Asian descent at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Ketogenic diets are gaining popularity globally for weight loss. After 2-4 weeks [on a strict ketogenic diet], some patients start to notice very pruritic papules on their trunk, the so-called keto rash,” reported Hye Jin Chung, MD, director of the Asian Skin Clinic, Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center, Boston. “Keto rash is actually prurigo pigmentosa.”
The exact pathogenesis of prurigo pigmentosa, a highly pruritic macular and papular rash with gross reticular pigmentation, is unclear, but Dr. Chung reported that the strong link with ketosis might explain why more cases are now being encountered outside of east Asia. Ketosis or conditions associated with a high risk for ketosis, such as anorexia nervosa, diabetes mellitus, or recent bariatric surgery, have been linked to prurigo pigmentosa in all skin types and ethnicities.
“I tell my residents that this is a disease you will never forget after your first case,” she said.
The differential diagnosis includes contact dermatitis and other inflammatory disorders, but Dr. Chung said that the reticular pattern of the lesions is a relatively unique feature. Confluent and reticulated papillomatosis (CARP) shares a pattern of reticulated lesions, but Dr. Chung said it lacks the inflammatory erythematous papules and the severe pruritus common to prurigo pigmentosa.
Histologically, the pattern evolves. It begins as a perivascular infiltration dominated by neutrophils and eosinophils with hyperkeratosis, acanthosis, and spongiosis. Over time, Dr. Chung said that the histologic picture shows an increasing degree of dyskeratosis as keratinocytes die.
Prurigo pigmentosa was first described 50 years ago by Masaji Nagashima, MD, who published a report on eight patients in Japan with a pruriginous truncal dermatosis featuring symmetrical pigmentation. Most subsequent reports were also from Japan or other east Asian countries, but it has since spread.
This global spread was captured in a recently published review of 115 published studies and case reports from 24 countries. In this review, the proportion of studies from Europe (36.5%) approached that of those from east Asia (38.2%), even if 76% of the patients for whom race was reported were of Asian ethnicity.
Of the 369 patients evaluated in these studies and case reports, 72.1% were female. The mean age was 25.6 years. In the studies originating outside of Asia, prurigo pigmentosa was reported in a spectrum of skin types and ethnicities, including Whites, Blacks, and Hispanics. The lowest reported incidence has been in the latter two groups, but the authors of the review speculated that this condition is likely being underdiagnosed in non-Asian individuals.
Dr. Chung agreed, and she cautioned that the consequences typically result in a significant delay for achieving disease control. In recounting a recent case of prurigo pigmentosa at her center, she said that the 59-year-old Asian patient had been initiated on topical steroids and oral antihistamines by her primary care physician before she was referred. This is a common and reasonable strategy for a highly pruritic rash potentially caused by contact dermatitis, but it is ineffective for this disorder.
“Prurigo pigmentosa requires anti-inflammatory agents,” she explained. She said that doxycycline and minocycline are the treatments of choice, but noted that there are also reports of efficacy with dapsone, macrolide antibiotics, and isotretinoin.
In her most recent case, she initiated the patient on 100 mg of doxycycline twice daily. There was significant improvement within 2 weeks, and the rash resolved within a month with no relapse in follow-up that now exceeds 12 months, Dr. Chung said.
According to Dr. Chung, Asian-Americans are the most rapidly growing ethnic group in the United States, making it increasingly important to be familiar with conditions common or unique to Asian skin, but prurigo pigmentosa is no longer confined to those of Asian descent. She encouraged clinicians to recognize this disorder to reduce the common delays to effective treatment.
The senior author of the recently published review of studies, Jensen Yeung, MD, of the department of dermatology, University of Toronto, agreed. He, too, believes that dermatologists need to increase their awareness of the signs and symptoms of prurigo pigmentosa – and not just in Asian patients or patients of Asian descent.
“This diagnosis is often missed,” he contended in an interview. “This condition has become more common in the past 5 years in my clinical experience.” He added that the increasing incidence might not just be related to better diagnostic accuracy, although the most significant of other possible explanations “is not yet well understood.”
Dr. Chung reports that she has no relevant financial relationships to disclose. Dr. Yeung reports financial relationships with more than 25 pharmaceutical companies, some of which produce treatments employed in the control of prurigo pigmentosa.
, according to a dermatologist, who reviewed skin conditions common to patients of Asian descent at the Skin of Color Update 2021.
“Ketogenic diets are gaining popularity globally for weight loss. After 2-4 weeks [on a strict ketogenic diet], some patients start to notice very pruritic papules on their trunk, the so-called keto rash,” reported Hye Jin Chung, MD, director of the Asian Skin Clinic, Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center, Boston. “Keto rash is actually prurigo pigmentosa.”
The exact pathogenesis of prurigo pigmentosa, a highly pruritic macular and papular rash with gross reticular pigmentation, is unclear, but Dr. Chung reported that the strong link with ketosis might explain why more cases are now being encountered outside of east Asia. Ketosis or conditions associated with a high risk for ketosis, such as anorexia nervosa, diabetes mellitus, or recent bariatric surgery, have been linked to prurigo pigmentosa in all skin types and ethnicities.
“I tell my residents that this is a disease you will never forget after your first case,” she said.
The differential diagnosis includes contact dermatitis and other inflammatory disorders, but Dr. Chung said that the reticular pattern of the lesions is a relatively unique feature. Confluent and reticulated papillomatosis (CARP) shares a pattern of reticulated lesions, but Dr. Chung said it lacks the inflammatory erythematous papules and the severe pruritus common to prurigo pigmentosa.
Histologically, the pattern evolves. It begins as a perivascular infiltration dominated by neutrophils and eosinophils with hyperkeratosis, acanthosis, and spongiosis. Over time, Dr. Chung said that the histologic picture shows an increasing degree of dyskeratosis as keratinocytes die.
Prurigo pigmentosa was first described 50 years ago by Masaji Nagashima, MD, who published a report on eight patients in Japan with a pruriginous truncal dermatosis featuring symmetrical pigmentation. Most subsequent reports were also from Japan or other east Asian countries, but it has since spread.
This global spread was captured in a recently published review of 115 published studies and case reports from 24 countries. In this review, the proportion of studies from Europe (36.5%) approached that of those from east Asia (38.2%), even if 76% of the patients for whom race was reported were of Asian ethnicity.
Of the 369 patients evaluated in these studies and case reports, 72.1% were female. The mean age was 25.6 years. In the studies originating outside of Asia, prurigo pigmentosa was reported in a spectrum of skin types and ethnicities, including Whites, Blacks, and Hispanics. The lowest reported incidence has been in the latter two groups, but the authors of the review speculated that this condition is likely being underdiagnosed in non-Asian individuals.
Dr. Chung agreed, and she cautioned that the consequences typically result in a significant delay for achieving disease control. In recounting a recent case of prurigo pigmentosa at her center, she said that the 59-year-old Asian patient had been initiated on topical steroids and oral antihistamines by her primary care physician before she was referred. This is a common and reasonable strategy for a highly pruritic rash potentially caused by contact dermatitis, but it is ineffective for this disorder.
“Prurigo pigmentosa requires anti-inflammatory agents,” she explained. She said that doxycycline and minocycline are the treatments of choice, but noted that there are also reports of efficacy with dapsone, macrolide antibiotics, and isotretinoin.
In her most recent case, she initiated the patient on 100 mg of doxycycline twice daily. There was significant improvement within 2 weeks, and the rash resolved within a month with no relapse in follow-up that now exceeds 12 months, Dr. Chung said.
According to Dr. Chung, Asian-Americans are the most rapidly growing ethnic group in the United States, making it increasingly important to be familiar with conditions common or unique to Asian skin, but prurigo pigmentosa is no longer confined to those of Asian descent. She encouraged clinicians to recognize this disorder to reduce the common delays to effective treatment.
The senior author of the recently published review of studies, Jensen Yeung, MD, of the department of dermatology, University of Toronto, agreed. He, too, believes that dermatologists need to increase their awareness of the signs and symptoms of prurigo pigmentosa – and not just in Asian patients or patients of Asian descent.
“This diagnosis is often missed,” he contended in an interview. “This condition has become more common in the past 5 years in my clinical experience.” He added that the increasing incidence might not just be related to better diagnostic accuracy, although the most significant of other possible explanations “is not yet well understood.”
Dr. Chung reports that she has no relevant financial relationships to disclose. Dr. Yeung reports financial relationships with more than 25 pharmaceutical companies, some of which produce treatments employed in the control of prurigo pigmentosa.
FROM SOC 2021
Eurocentric standards of beauty are no longer dominant, experts agree
Addressing current standards of beauty at the Skin of Color Update 2021, dermatologists speaking about attitudes within four ethnic groups recounted a similar story: .
This change is relevant to dermatologists consulting with patients for cosmetic procedures. Four dermatologists who recounted the types of procedures their patients are requesting each reported that more patients are seeking cosmetic enhancements that accentuate rather than modify ethnic features.
Lips in Black, Asian, and Arab ethnic groups are just one example.
“Where several years ago, the conversation was really about lip reductions – how we can deemphasize the lip – I am now seeing lots of women of color coming in to ask about lip augmentation, looking to highlight their lips as a point of beauty,” reported Michelle Henry, MD, a dermatologist who practices in New York City.
She is not alone. Others participating on the same panel spoke of a growing interest among their patients to maintain or even emphasize the same ethnic features – including but not limited to lip shape and size that they were once anxious to modify.
In Asian patients, “the goal is not to Westernize,” agreed Annie Chiu, MD, a dermatologist who practices in North Redondo Beach, Calif. For lips, she spoke of the “50-50 ratio” of upper and lower lip symmetry that is consistent with a traditional Asian characteristic.
Like Dr. Henry, Dr. Chiu said that many requests for cosmetic work now involve accentuating Asian features, such as the oval shape of the face, rather than steps to modify this shape. This is a relatively recent change.
“I am finding that more of my patients want to improve the esthetic balance to optimize the appearance within their own ethnicity,” she said.
In the United Arab Emirates (UAE), Hassan Galadari, MD, an American-trained physician who is assistant professor of dermatology at the UAE University in Dubai, recently conducted a poll of his patients. In order of importance, full lips came after wide eyes, a straight nose, and a sharp jaw line. Full cheeks and a round face completed a list that diverges from the California-blond prototype.
Although Angelina Jolie was selected over several Lebanese actresses as a first choice for an icon of beauty in this same poll, Dr. Galadari pointed out that this actress has many of the features, including wide eyes, a straight nose, and full lips, that are consistent with traditional features of Arab beauty.
Perceptions of beauty are not just changing within ethnic groups but reflected in mass culture. Dr. Henry pointed to a published comparison of the “World’s Most Beautiful” list from People magazine in 2017 relative to 1990. Of the 50 celebrities on the list in 1990, 88% were Fitzpatrick skin types I-III. Only 12% were types IV-VI, which increased to almost 30% of the 135 celebrities on the list in 2017 (P = .01). In 1990, just one celebrity (2%) was of mixed race, which increased to 10.4% in 2017.
Among Hispanic women, the changes in attitude are perhaps best captured among younger relative to older patients requesting cosmetic work, according to Maritza I. Perez, MD, professor of dermatology, University of Connecticut, Farmington. She said that her younger patients are less likely to seek rhinoplasty and blepharoplasty relative to her older patients, a reflection perhaps of comfort with their natural looks.
However, “the celebration of Latinas as beautiful, seductive, and sexual is hardly new,” she said, indicating that younger Hispanic patients are probably not driven to modify their ethnic features because they are already widely admired. “Six of the 10 women crowned Miss Universe in the last decade were from Latin American countries,” she noted.
The general willingness of patients within ethnic groups and society as a whole to see ethnic features as admirable and attractive was generally regarded by all the panelists as a positive development.
Dr. Henry, who said she was “encouraged” by such trends as “the natural hair movement” and diminishing interest among her darker patients in lightening skin pigment, said, “I definitely see a change among my patients in regard to their goals.”
For clinicians offering consults to patients seeking cosmetic work, Dr. Henry recommended being aware and sensitive to this evolution in order to offer appropriate care.
Dr. Chiu, emphasizing the pride that many of her patients take in their Asian features, made the same recommendation. She credited globalization and social media for attitudes that have allowed an embrace of what are now far more inclusive standards of beauty.
Dr. Henry reports financial relationships with Allergan and Merz. Dr. Chiu has financial relationships with AbbVie, Cynosure, Merz, Revance, and Solta. Dr. Galadari reports financial relationships with nine pharmaceutical companies, including Allergan, Merz, Revance, and Fillmed Laboratories. Dr. Perez reports no relevant conflicts of interest.
Addressing current standards of beauty at the Skin of Color Update 2021, dermatologists speaking about attitudes within four ethnic groups recounted a similar story: .
This change is relevant to dermatologists consulting with patients for cosmetic procedures. Four dermatologists who recounted the types of procedures their patients are requesting each reported that more patients are seeking cosmetic enhancements that accentuate rather than modify ethnic features.
Lips in Black, Asian, and Arab ethnic groups are just one example.
“Where several years ago, the conversation was really about lip reductions – how we can deemphasize the lip – I am now seeing lots of women of color coming in to ask about lip augmentation, looking to highlight their lips as a point of beauty,” reported Michelle Henry, MD, a dermatologist who practices in New York City.
She is not alone. Others participating on the same panel spoke of a growing interest among their patients to maintain or even emphasize the same ethnic features – including but not limited to lip shape and size that they were once anxious to modify.
In Asian patients, “the goal is not to Westernize,” agreed Annie Chiu, MD, a dermatologist who practices in North Redondo Beach, Calif. For lips, she spoke of the “50-50 ratio” of upper and lower lip symmetry that is consistent with a traditional Asian characteristic.
Like Dr. Henry, Dr. Chiu said that many requests for cosmetic work now involve accentuating Asian features, such as the oval shape of the face, rather than steps to modify this shape. This is a relatively recent change.
“I am finding that more of my patients want to improve the esthetic balance to optimize the appearance within their own ethnicity,” she said.
In the United Arab Emirates (UAE), Hassan Galadari, MD, an American-trained physician who is assistant professor of dermatology at the UAE University in Dubai, recently conducted a poll of his patients. In order of importance, full lips came after wide eyes, a straight nose, and a sharp jaw line. Full cheeks and a round face completed a list that diverges from the California-blond prototype.
Although Angelina Jolie was selected over several Lebanese actresses as a first choice for an icon of beauty in this same poll, Dr. Galadari pointed out that this actress has many of the features, including wide eyes, a straight nose, and full lips, that are consistent with traditional features of Arab beauty.
Perceptions of beauty are not just changing within ethnic groups but reflected in mass culture. Dr. Henry pointed to a published comparison of the “World’s Most Beautiful” list from People magazine in 2017 relative to 1990. Of the 50 celebrities on the list in 1990, 88% were Fitzpatrick skin types I-III. Only 12% were types IV-VI, which increased to almost 30% of the 135 celebrities on the list in 2017 (P = .01). In 1990, just one celebrity (2%) was of mixed race, which increased to 10.4% in 2017.
Among Hispanic women, the changes in attitude are perhaps best captured among younger relative to older patients requesting cosmetic work, according to Maritza I. Perez, MD, professor of dermatology, University of Connecticut, Farmington. She said that her younger patients are less likely to seek rhinoplasty and blepharoplasty relative to her older patients, a reflection perhaps of comfort with their natural looks.
However, “the celebration of Latinas as beautiful, seductive, and sexual is hardly new,” she said, indicating that younger Hispanic patients are probably not driven to modify their ethnic features because they are already widely admired. “Six of the 10 women crowned Miss Universe in the last decade were from Latin American countries,” she noted.
The general willingness of patients within ethnic groups and society as a whole to see ethnic features as admirable and attractive was generally regarded by all the panelists as a positive development.
Dr. Henry, who said she was “encouraged” by such trends as “the natural hair movement” and diminishing interest among her darker patients in lightening skin pigment, said, “I definitely see a change among my patients in regard to their goals.”
For clinicians offering consults to patients seeking cosmetic work, Dr. Henry recommended being aware and sensitive to this evolution in order to offer appropriate care.
Dr. Chiu, emphasizing the pride that many of her patients take in their Asian features, made the same recommendation. She credited globalization and social media for attitudes that have allowed an embrace of what are now far more inclusive standards of beauty.
Dr. Henry reports financial relationships with Allergan and Merz. Dr. Chiu has financial relationships with AbbVie, Cynosure, Merz, Revance, and Solta. Dr. Galadari reports financial relationships with nine pharmaceutical companies, including Allergan, Merz, Revance, and Fillmed Laboratories. Dr. Perez reports no relevant conflicts of interest.
Addressing current standards of beauty at the Skin of Color Update 2021, dermatologists speaking about attitudes within four ethnic groups recounted a similar story: .
This change is relevant to dermatologists consulting with patients for cosmetic procedures. Four dermatologists who recounted the types of procedures their patients are requesting each reported that more patients are seeking cosmetic enhancements that accentuate rather than modify ethnic features.
Lips in Black, Asian, and Arab ethnic groups are just one example.
“Where several years ago, the conversation was really about lip reductions – how we can deemphasize the lip – I am now seeing lots of women of color coming in to ask about lip augmentation, looking to highlight their lips as a point of beauty,” reported Michelle Henry, MD, a dermatologist who practices in New York City.
She is not alone. Others participating on the same panel spoke of a growing interest among their patients to maintain or even emphasize the same ethnic features – including but not limited to lip shape and size that they were once anxious to modify.
In Asian patients, “the goal is not to Westernize,” agreed Annie Chiu, MD, a dermatologist who practices in North Redondo Beach, Calif. For lips, she spoke of the “50-50 ratio” of upper and lower lip symmetry that is consistent with a traditional Asian characteristic.
Like Dr. Henry, Dr. Chiu said that many requests for cosmetic work now involve accentuating Asian features, such as the oval shape of the face, rather than steps to modify this shape. This is a relatively recent change.
“I am finding that more of my patients want to improve the esthetic balance to optimize the appearance within their own ethnicity,” she said.
In the United Arab Emirates (UAE), Hassan Galadari, MD, an American-trained physician who is assistant professor of dermatology at the UAE University in Dubai, recently conducted a poll of his patients. In order of importance, full lips came after wide eyes, a straight nose, and a sharp jaw line. Full cheeks and a round face completed a list that diverges from the California-blond prototype.
Although Angelina Jolie was selected over several Lebanese actresses as a first choice for an icon of beauty in this same poll, Dr. Galadari pointed out that this actress has many of the features, including wide eyes, a straight nose, and full lips, that are consistent with traditional features of Arab beauty.
Perceptions of beauty are not just changing within ethnic groups but reflected in mass culture. Dr. Henry pointed to a published comparison of the “World’s Most Beautiful” list from People magazine in 2017 relative to 1990. Of the 50 celebrities on the list in 1990, 88% were Fitzpatrick skin types I-III. Only 12% were types IV-VI, which increased to almost 30% of the 135 celebrities on the list in 2017 (P = .01). In 1990, just one celebrity (2%) was of mixed race, which increased to 10.4% in 2017.
Among Hispanic women, the changes in attitude are perhaps best captured among younger relative to older patients requesting cosmetic work, according to Maritza I. Perez, MD, professor of dermatology, University of Connecticut, Farmington. She said that her younger patients are less likely to seek rhinoplasty and blepharoplasty relative to her older patients, a reflection perhaps of comfort with their natural looks.
However, “the celebration of Latinas as beautiful, seductive, and sexual is hardly new,” she said, indicating that younger Hispanic patients are probably not driven to modify their ethnic features because they are already widely admired. “Six of the 10 women crowned Miss Universe in the last decade were from Latin American countries,” she noted.
The general willingness of patients within ethnic groups and society as a whole to see ethnic features as admirable and attractive was generally regarded by all the panelists as a positive development.
Dr. Henry, who said she was “encouraged” by such trends as “the natural hair movement” and diminishing interest among her darker patients in lightening skin pigment, said, “I definitely see a change among my patients in regard to their goals.”
For clinicians offering consults to patients seeking cosmetic work, Dr. Henry recommended being aware and sensitive to this evolution in order to offer appropriate care.
Dr. Chiu, emphasizing the pride that many of her patients take in their Asian features, made the same recommendation. She credited globalization and social media for attitudes that have allowed an embrace of what are now far more inclusive standards of beauty.
Dr. Henry reports financial relationships with Allergan and Merz. Dr. Chiu has financial relationships with AbbVie, Cynosure, Merz, Revance, and Solta. Dr. Galadari reports financial relationships with nine pharmaceutical companies, including Allergan, Merz, Revance, and Fillmed Laboratories. Dr. Perez reports no relevant conflicts of interest.
FROM SOC 2021