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Emerging Insights in Keloid Pathogenesis and Therapeutics
Keloids are fibroproliferative lesions caused by aberrant wound healing in predisposed individuals.1 While keloids have been reported in patients of all races and ethnicities, they most commonly develop in individuals of African or Asian descent.2 Often associated with symptoms such as pain and itching, keloids can be disfiguring and result in poorer quality of life.3 There is a paucity of research on keloid pathogenesis and efficacious therapeutics, particularly in patients with skin of color (SOC). Herein, we outline the current research on keloid treatment and highlight promising new therapies ranging from innovative intralesional techniques to advanced laser-based and biologic therapies.
Deficiencies in Skin of Color Research
Although keloids are 17 times more prevalent in patients with SOC,4 there is a considerable lack of focus on this population in the literature.5 Studies on keloids that include individuals with SOC often group patients of all skin types together, and subgroup analyses are not always performed.6,7 As a result, dermatologists may face considerable challenges in providing effective treatments for keloids in patients with SOC. With few evidence-based options available, patients with SOC who have keloids continue to experience impairments in quality of life.
Common Keloid Therapies
There currently is no gold-standard treatment for keloids. Common therapeutic modalities include intralesional corticosteroids (ILCs), antineoplastic agents and neuromodulators, laser-based devices, and surgical therapies (eg, excision), as well as combined medical and surgical techniques.8
Intralesional Corticosteroids—Minimally invasive ILCs are the first-line treatment in all patients with keloids, regardless of skin phototype. Because keloid formation results from trauma to the skin, ILCs often are recommended to minimize further skin damage.5 One meta-analysis found that ILCs have demonstrated success rates of 50% to 100%9; however, these studies frequently combine ILCs with other treatment modalities, and few studies have focused on the efficacy of ILC monotherapy in patients with SOC.6,10-13
Antineoplastic Agents and Neuromodulators—Certain antineoplastic agents (eg, 5-fluorouracil [5-FU] and bleomycin) and neuromodulators (eg, botulinum toxin A [BTA]) also have been studied in keloid management.8
5-Fluorouracil frequently is combined with ILCs such as triamcinolone (TAC). Combined therapy is more effective than TAC monotherapy in scar height reduction.14,15 Rates of adverse events such as dyspigmentation, atrophy, and telangiectasias also were lower in patients who received combined therapy.14,15 A systematic review found that intralesional bleomycin may be more effective than TAC alone, 5-FU alone, TAC combined with 5-FU, and TAC combined with cryotherapy; however, hyperpigmentation was a common adverse event, occurring in roughly 70% (42/60) of patients.16,17 Additionally, a 2024 meta-analysis evaluated 20 randomized controlled trials comprising 1114 patients treated with intralesional TAC, 5-FU, BTA, verapamil, and/or bleomycin. Botulinum toxin A and TAC plus 5-FU were found to have outstanding therapeutic efficacy for keloids, and rates of adverse events were similar among users of TAC, 5-FU, BTA, and TAC plus 5-FU.18
While antineoplastic agents and BTA may be promising keloid therapies, further studies demonstrating their efficacy and safety profiles are necessary, particularly regarding dyspigmentation as a potential adverse event, as this may be of concern in patients with darker phototypes.
Laser Therapies—Of all treatment modalities, laser-based keloid therapies have been the most robustly studied in SOC. The 2 main types are ablative (eg, CO2, Er:YAG) and nonablative (eg, pulsed dye, Nd:YAG) lasers. Ablative lasers rapidly heat water molecules within the skin, thereby vaporizing the skin cells in a controlled precise process that reduces scar tissue by removing layers of skin. Nonablative lasers target hemoglobin in blood vessels, reducing oxygen supply and inducing collagen remodeling without damaging the epidermis.19
For patients with SOC, lasers carry a risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.20 To address this risk, recent advancements in laser technology and procedural protocols have aimed to minimize the number of passes and utilize cooling devices21; however, many of these recommendations are based on retrospective reviews and small case series. A 2024 meta-analysis comprising 550 patients found that the combination of fractional CO2 laser therapy and 5-FU was the most effective intervention, markedly reducing Vancouver Scar Scale and pliability scores as well as keloid thickness.22 Conversely, pulsed dye lasers were the least effective in terms of improving scar thickness, pigmentation, and pliability when compared to other treatments.
Randomized controlled trials of laser-based therapies in patients with SOC are lacking in the literature. Future studies should focus on calibrating laser-based therapies for those with darker skin tones and examine the efficacy and adverse effects of ablative and nonablative lasers in patients with SOC.
Promising New Keloid Therapies
Keloid disease pathogenesis is incompletely understood, but several new therapeutic targets have been highlighted in the literature, including dupilumab, pentoxifylline, sirtuin 6 (SIRT6) modulators, remdesivir, and needle-assisted electrocoagulation plus pharmacotherapy.
Dupilumab—An anti–IL-4 and IL-13 monoclonal antibody, dupilumab was first approved for the treatment of severe atopic dermatitis. Its use has broadened since its approval, and keloids have been identified as a potential therapeutic target. A 2019 case study described a 53-year-old Black man with severe atopic dermatitis and chronic keloids that regressed with systemic dupilumab therapy.23 This prompted a follow-up case-control study using real-time polymerase chain reaction testing to evaluate Th2 gene expression (IL-4R, IL-13, and CCL18) of lesional and nonlesional tissue in 3 Black patients with chronic keloids and no concurrent atopic dermatitis vs 5 healthy Black controls.Despite the limited sample size, a significant increase in IL-13 and the Th2 chemokine CCL18 was found in patients with keloids compared to controls (P<.05), suggesting that the entire integument of patients with severe keloids is abnormal.23 This finding supports the use of systemic treatments for chronic and multifocal keloid disease. Several subsequent case reports have corroborated the efficacy of systemic and/or intralesional dupilumab.24,25 However, some studies have reported contradictory findings, suggesting the need for high-quality clinical trials.26,27
Pentoxifylline—Pentoxifylline is a methylated xanthine derivative and a nonspecific phosphodiesterase inhibitor used to treat claudication from peripheral artery disease. It also inhibits the proliferation and rate of collagen synthesis of fibroblasts from keloids in vitro.28,29 A 2019 retrospective, open-label pilot study analyzed postsurgical keloid recurrence in 45 patients with 67 unique keloids that were stratified into low- and high-risk groups based on clinical factors including multiple symptomatic keloids, history of recurrence, and family history.30 Both the low- and the high-risk groups were treated with 40 mg/mL intralesional triamcinolone acetonide monthly for 6 months; however, some of the high-risk keloids also received pentoxifylline 300 mg 3 times daily for 6 months. There was a statistically significant decrease in keloid recurrence rate between the high-risk group treated with pentoxifylline and the low-risk group for whom pentoxifylline was not prescribed (P=.015).
Similarly, a randomized clinical trial comparing the efficacy of combination intralesional pentoxifylline and intralesional triamcinolone vs monotherapy with pentoxifylline or triamcinolone found the most significant improvement in the combination cohort with reduction in keloid height (P=.04), pliability (P=.003), and vascularity (P=.05).31 These findings highlight the need for supplementary studies on the use of pentoxifylline for keloid therapy.
SIRT6 Modulators—SIRT6 modulators are an exciting future therapeutic target. In a recent case-control study evaluating the histologic milieu of keloid tissue vs normal skin specimens, the researchers found that selective overexpression of SIRT6 via the use of a recombinant adenovirus in keloid fibroblasts attenuated proliferation, invasion, and collagen synthesis while fostering apoptosis, likely through the suppression of MAPK/ERK pathway activity.32
Remdesivir—The antiviral drug remdesivir has been reported to have pharmacologic activities in a wide range of fibrotic diseases, including keloids. A 2024 study explored the potential effect and mechanisms of remdesivir on skin fibrosis both in vitro and in rodents.33 Remdesivir was found to decrease skin fibrosis and attenuate the gross weight of keloid tissues in vivo, suppress fibroblast activation and autophagy both in vivo and in vitro, dampen fibroblast activation by the TGF-β1/Smad signaling pathway, and inhibit fibroblasts autophagy by the PI3K/Akt/mTOR signaling pathway. These results demonstrate the therapeutic potential of remdesivir for keloid management.
Needle-Assisted Electrocoagulation Plus Pharmacotherapy—A novel needle-assisted electrocoagulation technique combined with pharmacotherapy (corticosteroid and 5-FU injections) was effective in a Chinese clinical trial involving 6 patients with keloids.34 Investigators used Vancouver Scar Scale and both Patient and Observer Scar Assessment Scale scores to grade patients’ scars before treatment and 1 month after the first treatment cycle. They found that ablation combined with pharmacotherapy significantly reduced all 3 scores without any obvious adverse events (P=.004, P=.006, and P=.017, respectively). This novel combination treatment may serve as a safe and effective therapeutic approach for keloid removal.
Final Thoughts
Emerging treatments offer promising new horizons in keloid management; however, the lack of robust, high-quality clinical trials, especially those focusing on
- Téot L, Mustoe TA, Middelkoop E, eds. Textbook on Scar Management: State of the Art Management and Emerging Technologies. Springer; 2020.
- Davis SA, Feldman SR, McMichael AJ. Management of keloids in the United States, 1990-2009: an analysis of the National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey. Dermatol Surg. 2013;39:988-994. doi:10.1111/dsu.12182
- Kassi K, Kouame K, Kouassi A, et al. Quality of life in black African patients with keloid scars. Dermatol Reports. 2020;12:8312. doi:10.4081/dr.2020.8312
- Delaleu J, Charvet E, Petit A. Keloid disease: review with clinical atlas. part I: definitions, history, epidemiology, clinics and diagnosis. Ann Dermatol Venereol. 2023;150:3-15.
doi:10.1016/j.annder.2022.08.010 - Bronte J, Zhou C, Vempati A, et al. A comprehensive review of non-surgical treatments for hypertrophic and keloid scars in skin of color. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol.
2024;17:1459-1469. doi:10.2147/CCID.S470997 - Davison SP, Dayan JH, Clemens MW, et al. Efficacy of intralesional 5-fluorouracil and triamcinolone in the treatment of keloids. Aesthet Surg J. 2009;29:40-46. doi:10.1016/j.asj.2008.11.006
- Azzam OA, Bassiouny DA, El-Hawary MS, et al. Treatment of hypertrophic scars and keloids by fractional carbon dioxide laser: a clinical, histological, and immunohistochemical study. Lasers Med Sci. 2016;31:9-18. doi:10.1007/s10103-015-1824-4
- Ekstein SF, Wyles SP, Moran SL, et al. Keloids: a review of therapeutic management. Int J Dermatol. 2021;60:661-671. doi:10.1111/ijd.15159
- Morelli Coppola M, Salzillo R, Segreto F, et al. Triamcinolone acetonide intralesional injection for the treatment of keloid scars: patient selection and perspectives. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:387-396. doi:10.2147/CCID.S133672
- Kant SB, van den Kerckhove E, Colla C, et al. A new treatment of hypertrophic and keloid scars with combined triamcinolone and verapamil: a retrospective study. Eur J Plast Surg. 2018;41:69-80. doi:10.1007/s00238-017-1322-y
- Cohen AJ, Talasila S, Lazarevic B, et al. Combination cryotherapy and intralesional corticosteroid versus steroid monotherapy in the treatment of keloids. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023;22:932-936. doi:10.1111/jocd.15520
- Tawaranurak N, Pliensiri P, Tawaranurak K. Combination of fractional carbon dioxide laser and topical triamcinolone vs intralesional triamcinolone for keloid treatment: a randomised clinical trial. Int Wound J. 2022;19:1729-1735. doi:10.1111/iwj.13775
- Belie O, Ugburo AO, Mofikoya BO, et al. A comparison of intralesional verapamil and triamcinolone monotherapy in the treatment of keloids in an African population. Niger J Clin Pract. 2021;24:986-992. doi:10.4103/njcp.njcp_474_20
- Khalid FA, Mehrose MY, Saleem M, et al. Comparison of efficacy and safety of intralesional triamcinolone and combination of triamcinolone with 5-fluorouracil in the treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars: randomised control trial. Burns. 2019;45:69-75. doi:10.1016/j.burns.2018.08.011
- Asilian A, Darougheh A, Shariati F. New combination of triamcinolone, 5-Fluorouracil, and pulsed-dye laser for treatment of keloid and hypertrophic scars. Dermatol Surg. 2006;32:907-915. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2006.32195.x
- Kim WI, Kim S, Cho SW, et al. The efficacy of bleomycin for treating keloid and hypertrophic scar: a systematic review and meta-analysis. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;19:3357-3366. doi:10.1111/jocd.13390
- Kabel A, Sabry H, Sorour N, et al. Comparative study between intralesional injection of bleomycin and 5-fluorouracil in the treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars. J Dermatol Dermatol Surg. 2016;20:32-38.
- Yang HA, Jheng WL, Yu J, et al. Comparative efficacy of drug interventions for keloids: a network meta-analysis. Ann Plast Surg. 2024;92(1S suppl 1
):S52-S59. doi:10.1097/SAP.0000000000003759 - Preissig J, Hamilton K, Markus R. Current laser resurfacing technologies: a review that delves beneath the surface. Semin Plast Surg. 2012;26:109-116. doi:10.1055/s-0032-1329413
- Bin Dakhil A, Shadid A, Altalhab S. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after carbon dioxide laser: review of prevention and risk factors. Dermatol Reports. 2023;15:9703. doi:10.4081/dr.2023.9703
- Kaushik SB, Alexis AF. Nonablative fractional laser resurfacing in skin of color: evidence-based review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10:51-67.
- Foppiani JA, Khaity A, Al-Dardery NM, et al. Laser therapy in hypertrophic and keloid scars: a systematic review and network meta-analysis. Aesthetic Plast Surg. Published May 17, 2024. doi:10.1007/s00266-024-04027-9
- Diaz A, Tan K, He H, et al. Keloid lesions show increased IL-4/IL-13 signaling and respond to Th2-targeting dupilumab therapy. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2020;34:E161-E164. doi:10.1111/jdv.16097
- Min MS,
Mazori DR, Lee MS, et al. Successful treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars with systemic and intralesional dupilumab. J Drugs Dermatol. 2023;22:1220-1222. doi:10.36849/JDD.6385 - Wittmer A, Finklea L, Joseph J. Effects of dupilumab on keloid stabilization and prevention. JAAD Case Rep. 2023;37:103-105. doi:10.1016/j.jdcr.2023.05.001
- Luk K, Fakhoury J, Ozog D. Nonresponse and progression of diffuse keloids to dupilumab therapy. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21:197-199. doi:10.36849/jdd.6252
- Tirgan MH, Uitto J. Lack of efficacy of dupilumab in the treatment of keloid disorder. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2022;36:E120-E122. doi:10.1111/jdv.17669
- Berman B, Duncan MR. Pentoxifylline inhibits the proliferation of human fibroblasts derived from keloid, scleroderma and morphoea skin and their production of collagen, glycosaminoglycans and fibronectin. Br J Dermatol. 1990;123:339-346. doi:10.1111/j.1365-
2133.1990.tb06294.x - Berman B, Duncan MR. Pentoxifylline inhibits normal human dermal fibroblast in vitro proliferation, collagen, glycosaminoglycan, and fibronectin production, and increases collagenase activity. J Invest Dermatol. 1989;92:605-610.
- Tan A, Martinez Luna O, Glass DA 2nd. Pentoxifylline for the prevention of postsurgical keloid recurrence. Dermatol Surg. 2020;46:1353-1356. doi:10.1097/DSS.0000000000002090
- Serag-Eldin YMA, Mahmoud WH, Gamea MM, et al. Intralesional pentoxifylline, triamcinolone acetonide, and their combination for treatment of keloid scars. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20:3330-3340. doi:10.1111/jocd.14305
- Zhou T, Chen Y, Wang C, et al. SIRT6 inhibits the proliferation and collagen synthesis of keloid fibroblasts through MAPK/ERK pathway. Discov Med. 2024;36:1430-1440. doi:10.24976/Discov.Med.202436186.133
- Zhang J, Zhang X, Guo X, et al. Remdesivir alleviates skin fibrosis by suppressing TGF-β1 signaling pathway. PLoS One. 2024;19:E0305927.
doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0305927 - Zhao J, Zhai X, Xu Z, et al. Novel needle-type electrocoagulation and combination pharmacotherapy: basic and clinical studies on efficacy and safety in treating keloids. J Cosmet Dermatol. doi:10.1111/jocd.16453
Keloids are fibroproliferative lesions caused by aberrant wound healing in predisposed individuals.1 While keloids have been reported in patients of all races and ethnicities, they most commonly develop in individuals of African or Asian descent.2 Often associated with symptoms such as pain and itching, keloids can be disfiguring and result in poorer quality of life.3 There is a paucity of research on keloid pathogenesis and efficacious therapeutics, particularly in patients with skin of color (SOC). Herein, we outline the current research on keloid treatment and highlight promising new therapies ranging from innovative intralesional techniques to advanced laser-based and biologic therapies.
Deficiencies in Skin of Color Research
Although keloids are 17 times more prevalent in patients with SOC,4 there is a considerable lack of focus on this population in the literature.5 Studies on keloids that include individuals with SOC often group patients of all skin types together, and subgroup analyses are not always performed.6,7 As a result, dermatologists may face considerable challenges in providing effective treatments for keloids in patients with SOC. With few evidence-based options available, patients with SOC who have keloids continue to experience impairments in quality of life.
Common Keloid Therapies
There currently is no gold-standard treatment for keloids. Common therapeutic modalities include intralesional corticosteroids (ILCs), antineoplastic agents and neuromodulators, laser-based devices, and surgical therapies (eg, excision), as well as combined medical and surgical techniques.8
Intralesional Corticosteroids—Minimally invasive ILCs are the first-line treatment in all patients with keloids, regardless of skin phototype. Because keloid formation results from trauma to the skin, ILCs often are recommended to minimize further skin damage.5 One meta-analysis found that ILCs have demonstrated success rates of 50% to 100%9; however, these studies frequently combine ILCs with other treatment modalities, and few studies have focused on the efficacy of ILC monotherapy in patients with SOC.6,10-13
Antineoplastic Agents and Neuromodulators—Certain antineoplastic agents (eg, 5-fluorouracil [5-FU] and bleomycin) and neuromodulators (eg, botulinum toxin A [BTA]) also have been studied in keloid management.8
5-Fluorouracil frequently is combined with ILCs such as triamcinolone (TAC). Combined therapy is more effective than TAC monotherapy in scar height reduction.14,15 Rates of adverse events such as dyspigmentation, atrophy, and telangiectasias also were lower in patients who received combined therapy.14,15 A systematic review found that intralesional bleomycin may be more effective than TAC alone, 5-FU alone, TAC combined with 5-FU, and TAC combined with cryotherapy; however, hyperpigmentation was a common adverse event, occurring in roughly 70% (42/60) of patients.16,17 Additionally, a 2024 meta-analysis evaluated 20 randomized controlled trials comprising 1114 patients treated with intralesional TAC, 5-FU, BTA, verapamil, and/or bleomycin. Botulinum toxin A and TAC plus 5-FU were found to have outstanding therapeutic efficacy for keloids, and rates of adverse events were similar among users of TAC, 5-FU, BTA, and TAC plus 5-FU.18
While antineoplastic agents and BTA may be promising keloid therapies, further studies demonstrating their efficacy and safety profiles are necessary, particularly regarding dyspigmentation as a potential adverse event, as this may be of concern in patients with darker phototypes.
Laser Therapies—Of all treatment modalities, laser-based keloid therapies have been the most robustly studied in SOC. The 2 main types are ablative (eg, CO2, Er:YAG) and nonablative (eg, pulsed dye, Nd:YAG) lasers. Ablative lasers rapidly heat water molecules within the skin, thereby vaporizing the skin cells in a controlled precise process that reduces scar tissue by removing layers of skin. Nonablative lasers target hemoglobin in blood vessels, reducing oxygen supply and inducing collagen remodeling without damaging the epidermis.19
For patients with SOC, lasers carry a risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.20 To address this risk, recent advancements in laser technology and procedural protocols have aimed to minimize the number of passes and utilize cooling devices21; however, many of these recommendations are based on retrospective reviews and small case series. A 2024 meta-analysis comprising 550 patients found that the combination of fractional CO2 laser therapy and 5-FU was the most effective intervention, markedly reducing Vancouver Scar Scale and pliability scores as well as keloid thickness.22 Conversely, pulsed dye lasers were the least effective in terms of improving scar thickness, pigmentation, and pliability when compared to other treatments.
Randomized controlled trials of laser-based therapies in patients with SOC are lacking in the literature. Future studies should focus on calibrating laser-based therapies for those with darker skin tones and examine the efficacy and adverse effects of ablative and nonablative lasers in patients with SOC.
Promising New Keloid Therapies
Keloid disease pathogenesis is incompletely understood, but several new therapeutic targets have been highlighted in the literature, including dupilumab, pentoxifylline, sirtuin 6 (SIRT6) modulators, remdesivir, and needle-assisted electrocoagulation plus pharmacotherapy.
Dupilumab—An anti–IL-4 and IL-13 monoclonal antibody, dupilumab was first approved for the treatment of severe atopic dermatitis. Its use has broadened since its approval, and keloids have been identified as a potential therapeutic target. A 2019 case study described a 53-year-old Black man with severe atopic dermatitis and chronic keloids that regressed with systemic dupilumab therapy.23 This prompted a follow-up case-control study using real-time polymerase chain reaction testing to evaluate Th2 gene expression (IL-4R, IL-13, and CCL18) of lesional and nonlesional tissue in 3 Black patients with chronic keloids and no concurrent atopic dermatitis vs 5 healthy Black controls.Despite the limited sample size, a significant increase in IL-13 and the Th2 chemokine CCL18 was found in patients with keloids compared to controls (P<.05), suggesting that the entire integument of patients with severe keloids is abnormal.23 This finding supports the use of systemic treatments for chronic and multifocal keloid disease. Several subsequent case reports have corroborated the efficacy of systemic and/or intralesional dupilumab.24,25 However, some studies have reported contradictory findings, suggesting the need for high-quality clinical trials.26,27
Pentoxifylline—Pentoxifylline is a methylated xanthine derivative and a nonspecific phosphodiesterase inhibitor used to treat claudication from peripheral artery disease. It also inhibits the proliferation and rate of collagen synthesis of fibroblasts from keloids in vitro.28,29 A 2019 retrospective, open-label pilot study analyzed postsurgical keloid recurrence in 45 patients with 67 unique keloids that were stratified into low- and high-risk groups based on clinical factors including multiple symptomatic keloids, history of recurrence, and family history.30 Both the low- and the high-risk groups were treated with 40 mg/mL intralesional triamcinolone acetonide monthly for 6 months; however, some of the high-risk keloids also received pentoxifylline 300 mg 3 times daily for 6 months. There was a statistically significant decrease in keloid recurrence rate between the high-risk group treated with pentoxifylline and the low-risk group for whom pentoxifylline was not prescribed (P=.015).
Similarly, a randomized clinical trial comparing the efficacy of combination intralesional pentoxifylline and intralesional triamcinolone vs monotherapy with pentoxifylline or triamcinolone found the most significant improvement in the combination cohort with reduction in keloid height (P=.04), pliability (P=.003), and vascularity (P=.05).31 These findings highlight the need for supplementary studies on the use of pentoxifylline for keloid therapy.
SIRT6 Modulators—SIRT6 modulators are an exciting future therapeutic target. In a recent case-control study evaluating the histologic milieu of keloid tissue vs normal skin specimens, the researchers found that selective overexpression of SIRT6 via the use of a recombinant adenovirus in keloid fibroblasts attenuated proliferation, invasion, and collagen synthesis while fostering apoptosis, likely through the suppression of MAPK/ERK pathway activity.32
Remdesivir—The antiviral drug remdesivir has been reported to have pharmacologic activities in a wide range of fibrotic diseases, including keloids. A 2024 study explored the potential effect and mechanisms of remdesivir on skin fibrosis both in vitro and in rodents.33 Remdesivir was found to decrease skin fibrosis and attenuate the gross weight of keloid tissues in vivo, suppress fibroblast activation and autophagy both in vivo and in vitro, dampen fibroblast activation by the TGF-β1/Smad signaling pathway, and inhibit fibroblasts autophagy by the PI3K/Akt/mTOR signaling pathway. These results demonstrate the therapeutic potential of remdesivir for keloid management.
Needle-Assisted Electrocoagulation Plus Pharmacotherapy—A novel needle-assisted electrocoagulation technique combined with pharmacotherapy (corticosteroid and 5-FU injections) was effective in a Chinese clinical trial involving 6 patients with keloids.34 Investigators used Vancouver Scar Scale and both Patient and Observer Scar Assessment Scale scores to grade patients’ scars before treatment and 1 month after the first treatment cycle. They found that ablation combined with pharmacotherapy significantly reduced all 3 scores without any obvious adverse events (P=.004, P=.006, and P=.017, respectively). This novel combination treatment may serve as a safe and effective therapeutic approach for keloid removal.
Final Thoughts
Emerging treatments offer promising new horizons in keloid management; however, the lack of robust, high-quality clinical trials, especially those focusing on
Keloids are fibroproliferative lesions caused by aberrant wound healing in predisposed individuals.1 While keloids have been reported in patients of all races and ethnicities, they most commonly develop in individuals of African or Asian descent.2 Often associated with symptoms such as pain and itching, keloids can be disfiguring and result in poorer quality of life.3 There is a paucity of research on keloid pathogenesis and efficacious therapeutics, particularly in patients with skin of color (SOC). Herein, we outline the current research on keloid treatment and highlight promising new therapies ranging from innovative intralesional techniques to advanced laser-based and biologic therapies.
Deficiencies in Skin of Color Research
Although keloids are 17 times more prevalent in patients with SOC,4 there is a considerable lack of focus on this population in the literature.5 Studies on keloids that include individuals with SOC often group patients of all skin types together, and subgroup analyses are not always performed.6,7 As a result, dermatologists may face considerable challenges in providing effective treatments for keloids in patients with SOC. With few evidence-based options available, patients with SOC who have keloids continue to experience impairments in quality of life.
Common Keloid Therapies
There currently is no gold-standard treatment for keloids. Common therapeutic modalities include intralesional corticosteroids (ILCs), antineoplastic agents and neuromodulators, laser-based devices, and surgical therapies (eg, excision), as well as combined medical and surgical techniques.8
Intralesional Corticosteroids—Minimally invasive ILCs are the first-line treatment in all patients with keloids, regardless of skin phototype. Because keloid formation results from trauma to the skin, ILCs often are recommended to minimize further skin damage.5 One meta-analysis found that ILCs have demonstrated success rates of 50% to 100%9; however, these studies frequently combine ILCs with other treatment modalities, and few studies have focused on the efficacy of ILC monotherapy in patients with SOC.6,10-13
Antineoplastic Agents and Neuromodulators—Certain antineoplastic agents (eg, 5-fluorouracil [5-FU] and bleomycin) and neuromodulators (eg, botulinum toxin A [BTA]) also have been studied in keloid management.8
5-Fluorouracil frequently is combined with ILCs such as triamcinolone (TAC). Combined therapy is more effective than TAC monotherapy in scar height reduction.14,15 Rates of adverse events such as dyspigmentation, atrophy, and telangiectasias also were lower in patients who received combined therapy.14,15 A systematic review found that intralesional bleomycin may be more effective than TAC alone, 5-FU alone, TAC combined with 5-FU, and TAC combined with cryotherapy; however, hyperpigmentation was a common adverse event, occurring in roughly 70% (42/60) of patients.16,17 Additionally, a 2024 meta-analysis evaluated 20 randomized controlled trials comprising 1114 patients treated with intralesional TAC, 5-FU, BTA, verapamil, and/or bleomycin. Botulinum toxin A and TAC plus 5-FU were found to have outstanding therapeutic efficacy for keloids, and rates of adverse events were similar among users of TAC, 5-FU, BTA, and TAC plus 5-FU.18
While antineoplastic agents and BTA may be promising keloid therapies, further studies demonstrating their efficacy and safety profiles are necessary, particularly regarding dyspigmentation as a potential adverse event, as this may be of concern in patients with darker phototypes.
Laser Therapies—Of all treatment modalities, laser-based keloid therapies have been the most robustly studied in SOC. The 2 main types are ablative (eg, CO2, Er:YAG) and nonablative (eg, pulsed dye, Nd:YAG) lasers. Ablative lasers rapidly heat water molecules within the skin, thereby vaporizing the skin cells in a controlled precise process that reduces scar tissue by removing layers of skin. Nonablative lasers target hemoglobin in blood vessels, reducing oxygen supply and inducing collagen remodeling without damaging the epidermis.19
For patients with SOC, lasers carry a risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.20 To address this risk, recent advancements in laser technology and procedural protocols have aimed to minimize the number of passes and utilize cooling devices21; however, many of these recommendations are based on retrospective reviews and small case series. A 2024 meta-analysis comprising 550 patients found that the combination of fractional CO2 laser therapy and 5-FU was the most effective intervention, markedly reducing Vancouver Scar Scale and pliability scores as well as keloid thickness.22 Conversely, pulsed dye lasers were the least effective in terms of improving scar thickness, pigmentation, and pliability when compared to other treatments.
Randomized controlled trials of laser-based therapies in patients with SOC are lacking in the literature. Future studies should focus on calibrating laser-based therapies for those with darker skin tones and examine the efficacy and adverse effects of ablative and nonablative lasers in patients with SOC.
Promising New Keloid Therapies
Keloid disease pathogenesis is incompletely understood, but several new therapeutic targets have been highlighted in the literature, including dupilumab, pentoxifylline, sirtuin 6 (SIRT6) modulators, remdesivir, and needle-assisted electrocoagulation plus pharmacotherapy.
Dupilumab—An anti–IL-4 and IL-13 monoclonal antibody, dupilumab was first approved for the treatment of severe atopic dermatitis. Its use has broadened since its approval, and keloids have been identified as a potential therapeutic target. A 2019 case study described a 53-year-old Black man with severe atopic dermatitis and chronic keloids that regressed with systemic dupilumab therapy.23 This prompted a follow-up case-control study using real-time polymerase chain reaction testing to evaluate Th2 gene expression (IL-4R, IL-13, and CCL18) of lesional and nonlesional tissue in 3 Black patients with chronic keloids and no concurrent atopic dermatitis vs 5 healthy Black controls.Despite the limited sample size, a significant increase in IL-13 and the Th2 chemokine CCL18 was found in patients with keloids compared to controls (P<.05), suggesting that the entire integument of patients with severe keloids is abnormal.23 This finding supports the use of systemic treatments for chronic and multifocal keloid disease. Several subsequent case reports have corroborated the efficacy of systemic and/or intralesional dupilumab.24,25 However, some studies have reported contradictory findings, suggesting the need for high-quality clinical trials.26,27
Pentoxifylline—Pentoxifylline is a methylated xanthine derivative and a nonspecific phosphodiesterase inhibitor used to treat claudication from peripheral artery disease. It also inhibits the proliferation and rate of collagen synthesis of fibroblasts from keloids in vitro.28,29 A 2019 retrospective, open-label pilot study analyzed postsurgical keloid recurrence in 45 patients with 67 unique keloids that were stratified into low- and high-risk groups based on clinical factors including multiple symptomatic keloids, history of recurrence, and family history.30 Both the low- and the high-risk groups were treated with 40 mg/mL intralesional triamcinolone acetonide monthly for 6 months; however, some of the high-risk keloids also received pentoxifylline 300 mg 3 times daily for 6 months. There was a statistically significant decrease in keloid recurrence rate between the high-risk group treated with pentoxifylline and the low-risk group for whom pentoxifylline was not prescribed (P=.015).
Similarly, a randomized clinical trial comparing the efficacy of combination intralesional pentoxifylline and intralesional triamcinolone vs monotherapy with pentoxifylline or triamcinolone found the most significant improvement in the combination cohort with reduction in keloid height (P=.04), pliability (P=.003), and vascularity (P=.05).31 These findings highlight the need for supplementary studies on the use of pentoxifylline for keloid therapy.
SIRT6 Modulators—SIRT6 modulators are an exciting future therapeutic target. In a recent case-control study evaluating the histologic milieu of keloid tissue vs normal skin specimens, the researchers found that selective overexpression of SIRT6 via the use of a recombinant adenovirus in keloid fibroblasts attenuated proliferation, invasion, and collagen synthesis while fostering apoptosis, likely through the suppression of MAPK/ERK pathway activity.32
Remdesivir—The antiviral drug remdesivir has been reported to have pharmacologic activities in a wide range of fibrotic diseases, including keloids. A 2024 study explored the potential effect and mechanisms of remdesivir on skin fibrosis both in vitro and in rodents.33 Remdesivir was found to decrease skin fibrosis and attenuate the gross weight of keloid tissues in vivo, suppress fibroblast activation and autophagy both in vivo and in vitro, dampen fibroblast activation by the TGF-β1/Smad signaling pathway, and inhibit fibroblasts autophagy by the PI3K/Akt/mTOR signaling pathway. These results demonstrate the therapeutic potential of remdesivir for keloid management.
Needle-Assisted Electrocoagulation Plus Pharmacotherapy—A novel needle-assisted electrocoagulation technique combined with pharmacotherapy (corticosteroid and 5-FU injections) was effective in a Chinese clinical trial involving 6 patients with keloids.34 Investigators used Vancouver Scar Scale and both Patient and Observer Scar Assessment Scale scores to grade patients’ scars before treatment and 1 month after the first treatment cycle. They found that ablation combined with pharmacotherapy significantly reduced all 3 scores without any obvious adverse events (P=.004, P=.006, and P=.017, respectively). This novel combination treatment may serve as a safe and effective therapeutic approach for keloid removal.
Final Thoughts
Emerging treatments offer promising new horizons in keloid management; however, the lack of robust, high-quality clinical trials, especially those focusing on
- Téot L, Mustoe TA, Middelkoop E, eds. Textbook on Scar Management: State of the Art Management and Emerging Technologies. Springer; 2020.
- Davis SA, Feldman SR, McMichael AJ. Management of keloids in the United States, 1990-2009: an analysis of the National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey. Dermatol Surg. 2013;39:988-994. doi:10.1111/dsu.12182
- Kassi K, Kouame K, Kouassi A, et al. Quality of life in black African patients with keloid scars. Dermatol Reports. 2020;12:8312. doi:10.4081/dr.2020.8312
- Delaleu J, Charvet E, Petit A. Keloid disease: review with clinical atlas. part I: definitions, history, epidemiology, clinics and diagnosis. Ann Dermatol Venereol. 2023;150:3-15.
doi:10.1016/j.annder.2022.08.010 - Bronte J, Zhou C, Vempati A, et al. A comprehensive review of non-surgical treatments for hypertrophic and keloid scars in skin of color. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol.
2024;17:1459-1469. doi:10.2147/CCID.S470997 - Davison SP, Dayan JH, Clemens MW, et al. Efficacy of intralesional 5-fluorouracil and triamcinolone in the treatment of keloids. Aesthet Surg J. 2009;29:40-46. doi:10.1016/j.asj.2008.11.006
- Azzam OA, Bassiouny DA, El-Hawary MS, et al. Treatment of hypertrophic scars and keloids by fractional carbon dioxide laser: a clinical, histological, and immunohistochemical study. Lasers Med Sci. 2016;31:9-18. doi:10.1007/s10103-015-1824-4
- Ekstein SF, Wyles SP, Moran SL, et al. Keloids: a review of therapeutic management. Int J Dermatol. 2021;60:661-671. doi:10.1111/ijd.15159
- Morelli Coppola M, Salzillo R, Segreto F, et al. Triamcinolone acetonide intralesional injection for the treatment of keloid scars: patient selection and perspectives. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:387-396. doi:10.2147/CCID.S133672
- Kant SB, van den Kerckhove E, Colla C, et al. A new treatment of hypertrophic and keloid scars with combined triamcinolone and verapamil: a retrospective study. Eur J Plast Surg. 2018;41:69-80. doi:10.1007/s00238-017-1322-y
- Cohen AJ, Talasila S, Lazarevic B, et al. Combination cryotherapy and intralesional corticosteroid versus steroid monotherapy in the treatment of keloids. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023;22:932-936. doi:10.1111/jocd.15520
- Tawaranurak N, Pliensiri P, Tawaranurak K. Combination of fractional carbon dioxide laser and topical triamcinolone vs intralesional triamcinolone for keloid treatment: a randomised clinical trial. Int Wound J. 2022;19:1729-1735. doi:10.1111/iwj.13775
- Belie O, Ugburo AO, Mofikoya BO, et al. A comparison of intralesional verapamil and triamcinolone monotherapy in the treatment of keloids in an African population. Niger J Clin Pract. 2021;24:986-992. doi:10.4103/njcp.njcp_474_20
- Khalid FA, Mehrose MY, Saleem M, et al. Comparison of efficacy and safety of intralesional triamcinolone and combination of triamcinolone with 5-fluorouracil in the treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars: randomised control trial. Burns. 2019;45:69-75. doi:10.1016/j.burns.2018.08.011
- Asilian A, Darougheh A, Shariati F. New combination of triamcinolone, 5-Fluorouracil, and pulsed-dye laser for treatment of keloid and hypertrophic scars. Dermatol Surg. 2006;32:907-915. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2006.32195.x
- Kim WI, Kim S, Cho SW, et al. The efficacy of bleomycin for treating keloid and hypertrophic scar: a systematic review and meta-analysis. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;19:3357-3366. doi:10.1111/jocd.13390
- Kabel A, Sabry H, Sorour N, et al. Comparative study between intralesional injection of bleomycin and 5-fluorouracil in the treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars. J Dermatol Dermatol Surg. 2016;20:32-38.
- Yang HA, Jheng WL, Yu J, et al. Comparative efficacy of drug interventions for keloids: a network meta-analysis. Ann Plast Surg. 2024;92(1S suppl 1
):S52-S59. doi:10.1097/SAP.0000000000003759 - Preissig J, Hamilton K, Markus R. Current laser resurfacing technologies: a review that delves beneath the surface. Semin Plast Surg. 2012;26:109-116. doi:10.1055/s-0032-1329413
- Bin Dakhil A, Shadid A, Altalhab S. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after carbon dioxide laser: review of prevention and risk factors. Dermatol Reports. 2023;15:9703. doi:10.4081/dr.2023.9703
- Kaushik SB, Alexis AF. Nonablative fractional laser resurfacing in skin of color: evidence-based review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10:51-67.
- Foppiani JA, Khaity A, Al-Dardery NM, et al. Laser therapy in hypertrophic and keloid scars: a systematic review and network meta-analysis. Aesthetic Plast Surg. Published May 17, 2024. doi:10.1007/s00266-024-04027-9
- Diaz A, Tan K, He H, et al. Keloid lesions show increased IL-4/IL-13 signaling and respond to Th2-targeting dupilumab therapy. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2020;34:E161-E164. doi:10.1111/jdv.16097
- Min MS,
Mazori DR, Lee MS, et al. Successful treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars with systemic and intralesional dupilumab. J Drugs Dermatol. 2023;22:1220-1222. doi:10.36849/JDD.6385 - Wittmer A, Finklea L, Joseph J. Effects of dupilumab on keloid stabilization and prevention. JAAD Case Rep. 2023;37:103-105. doi:10.1016/j.jdcr.2023.05.001
- Luk K, Fakhoury J, Ozog D. Nonresponse and progression of diffuse keloids to dupilumab therapy. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21:197-199. doi:10.36849/jdd.6252
- Tirgan MH, Uitto J. Lack of efficacy of dupilumab in the treatment of keloid disorder. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2022;36:E120-E122. doi:10.1111/jdv.17669
- Berman B, Duncan MR. Pentoxifylline inhibits the proliferation of human fibroblasts derived from keloid, scleroderma and morphoea skin and their production of collagen, glycosaminoglycans and fibronectin. Br J Dermatol. 1990;123:339-346. doi:10.1111/j.1365-
2133.1990.tb06294.x - Berman B, Duncan MR. Pentoxifylline inhibits normal human dermal fibroblast in vitro proliferation, collagen, glycosaminoglycan, and fibronectin production, and increases collagenase activity. J Invest Dermatol. 1989;92:605-610.
- Tan A, Martinez Luna O, Glass DA 2nd. Pentoxifylline for the prevention of postsurgical keloid recurrence. Dermatol Surg. 2020;46:1353-1356. doi:10.1097/DSS.0000000000002090
- Serag-Eldin YMA, Mahmoud WH, Gamea MM, et al. Intralesional pentoxifylline, triamcinolone acetonide, and their combination for treatment of keloid scars. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20:3330-3340. doi:10.1111/jocd.14305
- Zhou T, Chen Y, Wang C, et al. SIRT6 inhibits the proliferation and collagen synthesis of keloid fibroblasts through MAPK/ERK pathway. Discov Med. 2024;36:1430-1440. doi:10.24976/Discov.Med.202436186.133
- Zhang J, Zhang X, Guo X, et al. Remdesivir alleviates skin fibrosis by suppressing TGF-β1 signaling pathway. PLoS One. 2024;19:E0305927.
doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0305927 - Zhao J, Zhai X, Xu Z, et al. Novel needle-type electrocoagulation and combination pharmacotherapy: basic and clinical studies on efficacy and safety in treating keloids. J Cosmet Dermatol. doi:10.1111/jocd.16453
- Téot L, Mustoe TA, Middelkoop E, eds. Textbook on Scar Management: State of the Art Management and Emerging Technologies. Springer; 2020.
- Davis SA, Feldman SR, McMichael AJ. Management of keloids in the United States, 1990-2009: an analysis of the National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey. Dermatol Surg. 2013;39:988-994. doi:10.1111/dsu.12182
- Kassi K, Kouame K, Kouassi A, et al. Quality of life in black African patients with keloid scars. Dermatol Reports. 2020;12:8312. doi:10.4081/dr.2020.8312
- Delaleu J, Charvet E, Petit A. Keloid disease: review with clinical atlas. part I: definitions, history, epidemiology, clinics and diagnosis. Ann Dermatol Venereol. 2023;150:3-15.
doi:10.1016/j.annder.2022.08.010 - Bronte J, Zhou C, Vempati A, et al. A comprehensive review of non-surgical treatments for hypertrophic and keloid scars in skin of color. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol.
2024;17:1459-1469. doi:10.2147/CCID.S470997 - Davison SP, Dayan JH, Clemens MW, et al. Efficacy of intralesional 5-fluorouracil and triamcinolone in the treatment of keloids. Aesthet Surg J. 2009;29:40-46. doi:10.1016/j.asj.2008.11.006
- Azzam OA, Bassiouny DA, El-Hawary MS, et al. Treatment of hypertrophic scars and keloids by fractional carbon dioxide laser: a clinical, histological, and immunohistochemical study. Lasers Med Sci. 2016;31:9-18. doi:10.1007/s10103-015-1824-4
- Ekstein SF, Wyles SP, Moran SL, et al. Keloids: a review of therapeutic management. Int J Dermatol. 2021;60:661-671. doi:10.1111/ijd.15159
- Morelli Coppola M, Salzillo R, Segreto F, et al. Triamcinolone acetonide intralesional injection for the treatment of keloid scars: patient selection and perspectives. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:387-396. doi:10.2147/CCID.S133672
- Kant SB, van den Kerckhove E, Colla C, et al. A new treatment of hypertrophic and keloid scars with combined triamcinolone and verapamil: a retrospective study. Eur J Plast Surg. 2018;41:69-80. doi:10.1007/s00238-017-1322-y
- Cohen AJ, Talasila S, Lazarevic B, et al. Combination cryotherapy and intralesional corticosteroid versus steroid monotherapy in the treatment of keloids. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023;22:932-936. doi:10.1111/jocd.15520
- Tawaranurak N, Pliensiri P, Tawaranurak K. Combination of fractional carbon dioxide laser and topical triamcinolone vs intralesional triamcinolone for keloid treatment: a randomised clinical trial. Int Wound J. 2022;19:1729-1735. doi:10.1111/iwj.13775
- Belie O, Ugburo AO, Mofikoya BO, et al. A comparison of intralesional verapamil and triamcinolone monotherapy in the treatment of keloids in an African population. Niger J Clin Pract. 2021;24:986-992. doi:10.4103/njcp.njcp_474_20
- Khalid FA, Mehrose MY, Saleem M, et al. Comparison of efficacy and safety of intralesional triamcinolone and combination of triamcinolone with 5-fluorouracil in the treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars: randomised control trial. Burns. 2019;45:69-75. doi:10.1016/j.burns.2018.08.011
- Asilian A, Darougheh A, Shariati F. New combination of triamcinolone, 5-Fluorouracil, and pulsed-dye laser for treatment of keloid and hypertrophic scars. Dermatol Surg. 2006;32:907-915. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2006.32195.x
- Kim WI, Kim S, Cho SW, et al. The efficacy of bleomycin for treating keloid and hypertrophic scar: a systematic review and meta-analysis. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;19:3357-3366. doi:10.1111/jocd.13390
- Kabel A, Sabry H, Sorour N, et al. Comparative study between intralesional injection of bleomycin and 5-fluorouracil in the treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars. J Dermatol Dermatol Surg. 2016;20:32-38.
- Yang HA, Jheng WL, Yu J, et al. Comparative efficacy of drug interventions for keloids: a network meta-analysis. Ann Plast Surg. 2024;92(1S suppl 1
):S52-S59. doi:10.1097/SAP.0000000000003759 - Preissig J, Hamilton K, Markus R. Current laser resurfacing technologies: a review that delves beneath the surface. Semin Plast Surg. 2012;26:109-116. doi:10.1055/s-0032-1329413
- Bin Dakhil A, Shadid A, Altalhab S. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after carbon dioxide laser: review of prevention and risk factors. Dermatol Reports. 2023;15:9703. doi:10.4081/dr.2023.9703
- Kaushik SB, Alexis AF. Nonablative fractional laser resurfacing in skin of color: evidence-based review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10:51-67.
- Foppiani JA, Khaity A, Al-Dardery NM, et al. Laser therapy in hypertrophic and keloid scars: a systematic review and network meta-analysis. Aesthetic Plast Surg. Published May 17, 2024. doi:10.1007/s00266-024-04027-9
- Diaz A, Tan K, He H, et al. Keloid lesions show increased IL-4/IL-13 signaling and respond to Th2-targeting dupilumab therapy. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2020;34:E161-E164. doi:10.1111/jdv.16097
- Min MS,
Mazori DR, Lee MS, et al. Successful treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars with systemic and intralesional dupilumab. J Drugs Dermatol. 2023;22:1220-1222. doi:10.36849/JDD.6385 - Wittmer A, Finklea L, Joseph J. Effects of dupilumab on keloid stabilization and prevention. JAAD Case Rep. 2023;37:103-105. doi:10.1016/j.jdcr.2023.05.001
- Luk K, Fakhoury J, Ozog D. Nonresponse and progression of diffuse keloids to dupilumab therapy. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21:197-199. doi:10.36849/jdd.6252
- Tirgan MH, Uitto J. Lack of efficacy of dupilumab in the treatment of keloid disorder. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2022;36:E120-E122. doi:10.1111/jdv.17669
- Berman B, Duncan MR. Pentoxifylline inhibits the proliferation of human fibroblasts derived from keloid, scleroderma and morphoea skin and their production of collagen, glycosaminoglycans and fibronectin. Br J Dermatol. 1990;123:339-346. doi:10.1111/j.1365-
2133.1990.tb06294.x - Berman B, Duncan MR. Pentoxifylline inhibits normal human dermal fibroblast in vitro proliferation, collagen, glycosaminoglycan, and fibronectin production, and increases collagenase activity. J Invest Dermatol. 1989;92:605-610.
- Tan A, Martinez Luna O, Glass DA 2nd. Pentoxifylline for the prevention of postsurgical keloid recurrence. Dermatol Surg. 2020;46:1353-1356. doi:10.1097/DSS.0000000000002090
- Serag-Eldin YMA, Mahmoud WH, Gamea MM, et al. Intralesional pentoxifylline, triamcinolone acetonide, and their combination for treatment of keloid scars. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20:3330-3340. doi:10.1111/jocd.14305
- Zhou T, Chen Y, Wang C, et al. SIRT6 inhibits the proliferation and collagen synthesis of keloid fibroblasts through MAPK/ERK pathway. Discov Med. 2024;36:1430-1440. doi:10.24976/Discov.Med.202436186.133
- Zhang J, Zhang X, Guo X, et al. Remdesivir alleviates skin fibrosis by suppressing TGF-β1 signaling pathway. PLoS One. 2024;19:E0305927.
doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0305927 - Zhao J, Zhai X, Xu Z, et al. Novel needle-type electrocoagulation and combination pharmacotherapy: basic and clinical studies on efficacy and safety in treating keloids. J Cosmet Dermatol. doi:10.1111/jocd.16453
Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia in Males: Analysis of Time to Diagnosis and Disease Severity
To the Editor:
Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) is a chronic progressive type of scarring alopecia that primarily affects women of African descent.1 The disorder rarely is reported in men, which may be due to misdiagnosis or delayed diagnosis. Early diagnosis and treatment are the cornerstones to slow or halt disease progression and prevent permanent damage to hair follicles. This study aimed to investigate the time to diagnosis and disease severity among males with CCCA.
We conducted a retrospective chart review of male patients older than 18 years seen in outpatient clinics at an academic dermatology department (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) between January 2012 and December 2022. An electronic query using the International Classification of Diseases, Ninth and Tenth Revisions, code L66.9 (cicatricial alopecia, unspecified) was performed. Patients were included if they had a clinical diagnosis of CCCA, histologic evidence of CCCA, and scalp photographs from the initial dermatology visit. Patients with folliculitis decalvans, scalp biopsy features that limited characterization, or no scalp biopsy were excluded from the study. Onset of CCCA was defined as the patient-reported start time of hair loss and/or scalp symptoms. To determine alopecia severity, the degree of central scalp hair loss was independently assessed by 2 dermatologists (S.C.T., T.O.) using the central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women.2,3 This 6-point photographic scale displays images with grades ranging from 0 (normal) to 5 (bald scalp); higher grades indicate probable and more severe CCCA. The scale also divides the central hair loss in a frontal-accentuation or vertex-predominant pattern, which corresponds to the A or B designations, respectively; thus, a score of 5A indicates probable severe CCCA with a frontal accentuation pattern, while 5B indicates probable severe CCCA with hair loss focused on the vertex scalp. This study was approved by the University of Pennsylvania institutional review board (approval #850730).
Of 108 male patients, 12 met the eligibility criteria. Nearly all patients (91.7% [11/12]) had a CCCA severity grade of 3 or higher at the initial dermatology visit, indicating extensive hair loss (Table). The clinical appearance of severity grades 2 through 5 is demonstrated in the Figure. Among patients with a known disease duration prior to diagnosis, 72.7% (8/11) were diagnosed more than 1 year after onset of CCCA, and 45.4% (5/11) were diagnosed more than 5 years after onset. On average (SD), it took 6.4 (5.9) years for patients to receive a diagnosis of CCCA after the onset of scalp symptoms and/or hair loss.
Randomized controlled trials evaluating treatment of CCCA are lacking, and anecdotal evidence posits a better treatment response in early CCCA; however, our results suggest that most male patients present with advanced CCCA and receive a diagnosis years after disease onset. Similar research in alopecia areata has shown that 72.4% (105/145) of patients received their diagnosis within a year after onset of symptoms, and the mean time from onset of symptoms to diagnosis was 1 year.4 In contrast, male patients with CCCA experience considerable diagnostic delays. This disparity indicates the need for clinicians to increase recognition of CCCA in men and quickly refer them to a dermatologist for prompt treatment.
Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) commonly is at the top of the differential diagnosis for hair loss on the vertex of the scalp in males, but clinicians should maintain a high index of suspicion for CCCA, especially when scalp symptoms or atypical features of AGA are present.5 Androgenetic alopecia typically is asymptomatic, whereas the symptoms of CCCA may include itching, tenderness, and/or burning.6,7 Trichoscopy is useful to evaluate for scarring, and a scalp biopsy may reveal other features to lower AGA on the differential. Educating patients, barbers, and hairstylists about the importance of early intervention also may encourage earlier visits before the scarring process is advanced. Further exploration into factors impacting diagnosis and CCCA severity may uncover implications for prognosis and treatment.
This study was limited by a small sample size, retrospective design, and single-center analysis. Some patients had comorbid hair loss conditions, which could affect disease severity. Moreover, the central scalp alopecia photographic scale2 was not validated in men or designed for assessment of the nonclassical hair loss distributions noted in some of our patients. Nonetheless, we hope these data will support clinicians in efforts to advocate for early diagnosis and treatment in patients with CCCA to ultimately help improve outcomes.
- Ogunleye TA, McMichael A, Olsen EA. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: what has been achieved, current clues for future research. Dermatol Clin. 2014;32:173-181. doi:10.1016/j.det.2013.12.005
- Olsen EA, Callender V, McMichael A, et al. Central hair loss in African American women: incidence and potential risk factors. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64:245-252. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2009.11.693
- Olsen EA, Callendar V, Sperling L, et al. Central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women. Dermatol Ther. 2008;21:264-267. doi:10.1111/j.1529-8019.2008.00208.x
- Andersen YMF, Nymand L, DeLozier AM, et al. Patient characteristics and disease burden of alopecia areata in the Danish Skin Cohort. BMJ Open. 2022;12:E053137. doi:10.1136/bmjopen-2021-053137
- Davis EC, Reid SD, Callender VD, et al. Differentiating central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia and androgenetic alopecia in African American men. J Clin Aesthetic Dermatol. 2012;5:37-40.
- Jackson TK, Sow Y, Ayoade KO, et al. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia in males. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2023;89:1136-1140. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2023.07.1011
- Lawson CN, Bakayoko A, Callender VD. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: challenges and treatments. Dermatol Clin. 2021;39:389-405. doi:10.1016/j.det.2021.03.004
To the Editor:
Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) is a chronic progressive type of scarring alopecia that primarily affects women of African descent.1 The disorder rarely is reported in men, which may be due to misdiagnosis or delayed diagnosis. Early diagnosis and treatment are the cornerstones to slow or halt disease progression and prevent permanent damage to hair follicles. This study aimed to investigate the time to diagnosis and disease severity among males with CCCA.
We conducted a retrospective chart review of male patients older than 18 years seen in outpatient clinics at an academic dermatology department (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) between January 2012 and December 2022. An electronic query using the International Classification of Diseases, Ninth and Tenth Revisions, code L66.9 (cicatricial alopecia, unspecified) was performed. Patients were included if they had a clinical diagnosis of CCCA, histologic evidence of CCCA, and scalp photographs from the initial dermatology visit. Patients with folliculitis decalvans, scalp biopsy features that limited characterization, or no scalp biopsy were excluded from the study. Onset of CCCA was defined as the patient-reported start time of hair loss and/or scalp symptoms. To determine alopecia severity, the degree of central scalp hair loss was independently assessed by 2 dermatologists (S.C.T., T.O.) using the central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women.2,3 This 6-point photographic scale displays images with grades ranging from 0 (normal) to 5 (bald scalp); higher grades indicate probable and more severe CCCA. The scale also divides the central hair loss in a frontal-accentuation or vertex-predominant pattern, which corresponds to the A or B designations, respectively; thus, a score of 5A indicates probable severe CCCA with a frontal accentuation pattern, while 5B indicates probable severe CCCA with hair loss focused on the vertex scalp. This study was approved by the University of Pennsylvania institutional review board (approval #850730).
Of 108 male patients, 12 met the eligibility criteria. Nearly all patients (91.7% [11/12]) had a CCCA severity grade of 3 or higher at the initial dermatology visit, indicating extensive hair loss (Table). The clinical appearance of severity grades 2 through 5 is demonstrated in the Figure. Among patients with a known disease duration prior to diagnosis, 72.7% (8/11) were diagnosed more than 1 year after onset of CCCA, and 45.4% (5/11) were diagnosed more than 5 years after onset. On average (SD), it took 6.4 (5.9) years for patients to receive a diagnosis of CCCA after the onset of scalp symptoms and/or hair loss.
Randomized controlled trials evaluating treatment of CCCA are lacking, and anecdotal evidence posits a better treatment response in early CCCA; however, our results suggest that most male patients present with advanced CCCA and receive a diagnosis years after disease onset. Similar research in alopecia areata has shown that 72.4% (105/145) of patients received their diagnosis within a year after onset of symptoms, and the mean time from onset of symptoms to diagnosis was 1 year.4 In contrast, male patients with CCCA experience considerable diagnostic delays. This disparity indicates the need for clinicians to increase recognition of CCCA in men and quickly refer them to a dermatologist for prompt treatment.
Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) commonly is at the top of the differential diagnosis for hair loss on the vertex of the scalp in males, but clinicians should maintain a high index of suspicion for CCCA, especially when scalp symptoms or atypical features of AGA are present.5 Androgenetic alopecia typically is asymptomatic, whereas the symptoms of CCCA may include itching, tenderness, and/or burning.6,7 Trichoscopy is useful to evaluate for scarring, and a scalp biopsy may reveal other features to lower AGA on the differential. Educating patients, barbers, and hairstylists about the importance of early intervention also may encourage earlier visits before the scarring process is advanced. Further exploration into factors impacting diagnosis and CCCA severity may uncover implications for prognosis and treatment.
This study was limited by a small sample size, retrospective design, and single-center analysis. Some patients had comorbid hair loss conditions, which could affect disease severity. Moreover, the central scalp alopecia photographic scale2 was not validated in men or designed for assessment of the nonclassical hair loss distributions noted in some of our patients. Nonetheless, we hope these data will support clinicians in efforts to advocate for early diagnosis and treatment in patients with CCCA to ultimately help improve outcomes.
To the Editor:
Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) is a chronic progressive type of scarring alopecia that primarily affects women of African descent.1 The disorder rarely is reported in men, which may be due to misdiagnosis or delayed diagnosis. Early diagnosis and treatment are the cornerstones to slow or halt disease progression and prevent permanent damage to hair follicles. This study aimed to investigate the time to diagnosis and disease severity among males with CCCA.
We conducted a retrospective chart review of male patients older than 18 years seen in outpatient clinics at an academic dermatology department (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) between January 2012 and December 2022. An electronic query using the International Classification of Diseases, Ninth and Tenth Revisions, code L66.9 (cicatricial alopecia, unspecified) was performed. Patients were included if they had a clinical diagnosis of CCCA, histologic evidence of CCCA, and scalp photographs from the initial dermatology visit. Patients with folliculitis decalvans, scalp biopsy features that limited characterization, or no scalp biopsy were excluded from the study. Onset of CCCA was defined as the patient-reported start time of hair loss and/or scalp symptoms. To determine alopecia severity, the degree of central scalp hair loss was independently assessed by 2 dermatologists (S.C.T., T.O.) using the central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women.2,3 This 6-point photographic scale displays images with grades ranging from 0 (normal) to 5 (bald scalp); higher grades indicate probable and more severe CCCA. The scale also divides the central hair loss in a frontal-accentuation or vertex-predominant pattern, which corresponds to the A or B designations, respectively; thus, a score of 5A indicates probable severe CCCA with a frontal accentuation pattern, while 5B indicates probable severe CCCA with hair loss focused on the vertex scalp. This study was approved by the University of Pennsylvania institutional review board (approval #850730).
Of 108 male patients, 12 met the eligibility criteria. Nearly all patients (91.7% [11/12]) had a CCCA severity grade of 3 or higher at the initial dermatology visit, indicating extensive hair loss (Table). The clinical appearance of severity grades 2 through 5 is demonstrated in the Figure. Among patients with a known disease duration prior to diagnosis, 72.7% (8/11) were diagnosed more than 1 year after onset of CCCA, and 45.4% (5/11) were diagnosed more than 5 years after onset. On average (SD), it took 6.4 (5.9) years for patients to receive a diagnosis of CCCA after the onset of scalp symptoms and/or hair loss.
Randomized controlled trials evaluating treatment of CCCA are lacking, and anecdotal evidence posits a better treatment response in early CCCA; however, our results suggest that most male patients present with advanced CCCA and receive a diagnosis years after disease onset. Similar research in alopecia areata has shown that 72.4% (105/145) of patients received their diagnosis within a year after onset of symptoms, and the mean time from onset of symptoms to diagnosis was 1 year.4 In contrast, male patients with CCCA experience considerable diagnostic delays. This disparity indicates the need for clinicians to increase recognition of CCCA in men and quickly refer them to a dermatologist for prompt treatment.
Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) commonly is at the top of the differential diagnosis for hair loss on the vertex of the scalp in males, but clinicians should maintain a high index of suspicion for CCCA, especially when scalp symptoms or atypical features of AGA are present.5 Androgenetic alopecia typically is asymptomatic, whereas the symptoms of CCCA may include itching, tenderness, and/or burning.6,7 Trichoscopy is useful to evaluate for scarring, and a scalp biopsy may reveal other features to lower AGA on the differential. Educating patients, barbers, and hairstylists about the importance of early intervention also may encourage earlier visits before the scarring process is advanced. Further exploration into factors impacting diagnosis and CCCA severity may uncover implications for prognosis and treatment.
This study was limited by a small sample size, retrospective design, and single-center analysis. Some patients had comorbid hair loss conditions, which could affect disease severity. Moreover, the central scalp alopecia photographic scale2 was not validated in men or designed for assessment of the nonclassical hair loss distributions noted in some of our patients. Nonetheless, we hope these data will support clinicians in efforts to advocate for early diagnosis and treatment in patients with CCCA to ultimately help improve outcomes.
- Ogunleye TA, McMichael A, Olsen EA. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: what has been achieved, current clues for future research. Dermatol Clin. 2014;32:173-181. doi:10.1016/j.det.2013.12.005
- Olsen EA, Callender V, McMichael A, et al. Central hair loss in African American women: incidence and potential risk factors. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64:245-252. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2009.11.693
- Olsen EA, Callendar V, Sperling L, et al. Central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women. Dermatol Ther. 2008;21:264-267. doi:10.1111/j.1529-8019.2008.00208.x
- Andersen YMF, Nymand L, DeLozier AM, et al. Patient characteristics and disease burden of alopecia areata in the Danish Skin Cohort. BMJ Open. 2022;12:E053137. doi:10.1136/bmjopen-2021-053137
- Davis EC, Reid SD, Callender VD, et al. Differentiating central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia and androgenetic alopecia in African American men. J Clin Aesthetic Dermatol. 2012;5:37-40.
- Jackson TK, Sow Y, Ayoade KO, et al. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia in males. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2023;89:1136-1140. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2023.07.1011
- Lawson CN, Bakayoko A, Callender VD. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: challenges and treatments. Dermatol Clin. 2021;39:389-405. doi:10.1016/j.det.2021.03.004
- Ogunleye TA, McMichael A, Olsen EA. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: what has been achieved, current clues for future research. Dermatol Clin. 2014;32:173-181. doi:10.1016/j.det.2013.12.005
- Olsen EA, Callender V, McMichael A, et al. Central hair loss in African American women: incidence and potential risk factors. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64:245-252. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2009.11.693
- Olsen EA, Callendar V, Sperling L, et al. Central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women. Dermatol Ther. 2008;21:264-267. doi:10.1111/j.1529-8019.2008.00208.x
- Andersen YMF, Nymand L, DeLozier AM, et al. Patient characteristics and disease burden of alopecia areata in the Danish Skin Cohort. BMJ Open. 2022;12:E053137. doi:10.1136/bmjopen-2021-053137
- Davis EC, Reid SD, Callender VD, et al. Differentiating central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia and androgenetic alopecia in African American men. J Clin Aesthetic Dermatol. 2012;5:37-40.
- Jackson TK, Sow Y, Ayoade KO, et al. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia in males. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2023;89:1136-1140. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2023.07.1011
- Lawson CN, Bakayoko A, Callender VD. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: challenges and treatments. Dermatol Clin. 2021;39:389-405. doi:10.1016/j.det.2021.03.004
Practice Points
- Most males with central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) experience considerable diagnostic delays and typically present to dermatology with late-stage disease.
- Dermatologists should consider CCCA in the differential diagnosis for adult Black males with alopecia.
- More research is needed to explore advanced CCCA in males, including factors limiting timely diagnosis and the impact on quality of life in this population.
Telemedicine Alopecia Assessment: Highlighting Patients With Skin of Color
Practice Gap
In accordance with World Health Organization guidelines on social distancing to limit transmission of SARS-CoV-2, dermatologists have relied on teledermatology (TD) to develop novel adaptations of traditional workflows, optimize patient care, and limit in-person appointments during the COVID-19 pandemic. Pandemic-induced physical and emotional stress were anticipated to increase the incidence of dermatologic diseases with psychologic triggers.
The connection between hair loss and emotional stress is well documented for telogen effluvium and alopecia areata.1,2 As anticipated, dermatology visits increased during the COVID-19 pandemic for the diagnosis of alopecia1-4; a survey performed during the pandemic found that alopecia was one of the most common diagnoses dermatologists made through telehealth platforms.5
This article provides a practical guide for dermatology practitioners to efficiently and accurately assess alopecia by TD in all patients, with added considerations for skin of color patients.
Diagnostic Tools
The intersection of TD, as an effective mechanism for the diagnosis and treatment of dermatologic disorders, and the increase in alopecia observed during the COVID-19 pandemic prompted us to develop a workflow for conducting virtual scalp examinations. Seven dermatologists (A.M., A.A., O.A., N.E., V.C., C.M.B., S.C.T.) who are experts in hair disorders contributed to developing workflows to optimize the assessment of alopecia through a virtual scalp examination, with an emphasis on patients of color. These experts completed a 7-question survey (Table) detailing their approach to the virtual scalp examination. One author (B.N.W.) served as an independent reviewer and collated responses into the following workflows.
Telemedicine Previsit Workflow
Components of the previsit workflow include:
• Instruct patients to provide all laboratory values and biopsy reports before the appointment.
• Test for a stable Wi-Fi connection using a speed test (available at https://www.speedtest.net/). A speed of 10 megabits/second or more is required for high-quality video via TD.6
• Provide a handout illustrating the required photographs of the anterior hairline; the mid scalp, including vertex, bilateral parietal, and occipital scalp; and posterior hairline. Photographs should be uploaded 2 hours before the visit. Figures 1 and 2 are examples of photographs that should be requested.
• Request images with 2 or 3 different angles of the area of the scalp with the greatest involvement to help appreciate primary and secondary characteristics.
• Encourage patients to present with clean, recently shampooed, dried, and detangled natural hair, unless they have an itchy or flaky scalp.
• For concerns of scalp, hairline, eyebrow, or facial flaking and scaling, instruct the patient to avoid applying a moisturizer before the visit.
• Instruct the patient to remove false eyelashes, eyelash extensions, eyebrow pencil, hair camouflage, hair accessories, braids, extensions, weaves, twists, and other hairstyles so that the hair can be maneuvered to expose the scalp surface.
• Instruct the patient to have a comb, pic, or brush, or more than one of these implements, available during the visit.
Telemedicine Visit Workflow
Components of the visit workflow include:
• If a stable Wi-Fi connection cannot be established, switch to an audio-only visit to collect a pertinent history. Advise the patient that in-person follow-up must be scheduled.
• Confirm that (1) the patient is in a private setting where the scalp can be viewed and (2) lighting is positioned in front of the patient.
• Ensure that the patient’s hairline, full face, eyebrows, and eyelashes and, upon request, the vertex and posterior scalp, are completely visible.
• Initiate the virtual scalp examination by instructing the patient how to perform a hair pull test. Then, examine the pattern and distribution of hair loss alongside supplemental photographs.
• Instruct the patient to apply pressure with the fingertips throughout the scalp to help localize tenderness, which, in combination with the pattern of hair loss observed, might inform the diagnosis.
• Instruct the patient to scan the scalp with the fingertips for “bumps” to locate papules, pustules, and keloidal scars.
Diagnostic Pearls
Distribution of Alopecia—The experts noted that the pattern, distribution, and location of hair loss determined from the telemedicine alopecia assessment provided important clues to distinguish the type of alopecia.
Diagnostic clues for diffuse or generalized alopecia include:
• Either of these findings might be indicative of telogen effluvium or acquired trichorrhexis nodosa. Results of the hair pull test can help distinguish between these diagnoses.
• Recent stressful life events along with the presence of telogen hairs extracted during a hair pull test support the diagnosis of telogen effluvium.
• A history of external stress on the hair—thermal, traction, or chemical—along with broken hair shafts following the hair pull test support the diagnosis of acquired trichorrhexis nodosa.
Diagnostic clues for focal or patchy alopecia include:
• Alopecia areata generally presents as focal hair loss in an annular distribution; pruritus, erythema, and scale are absent.
• Seborrheic dermatitis can present as pruritic erythematous patches with scale distributed on the scalp and, in some cases, in the eyebrows, nasolabial folds, or paranasal skin.7 Some skin of color patients present with petaloid seborrheic dermatitis—pink or hypopigmented polycyclic coalescing rings with minimal scale.7,8
• Discoid lupus erythematosus, similar to seborrheic dermatitis, might present as pruritic, scaly, hypopigmented patches. However, in the experience of the experts, a more common presentation is tender erythematous patches of hair loss with central hypopigmentation and surrounding hyperpigmentation.
Diagnostic clues for vertex and mid scalp alopecia include:
• Androgenetic alopecia typically presents as a reduction of terminal hair density in the vertex and mid scalp regions (with widening through the midline part) and fine hair along the anterior hairline.9 Signs of concomitant hyperandrogenism, including facial hirsutism, acne, and obesity, might be observed.10
• Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia typically affects the vertex and mid scalp with a shiny scalp appearance and follicular dropout.
Diagnostic clues for frontotemporal alopecia include:
• Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) often presents with spared single terminal hairs (lonely hair sign).
• Traction alopecia commonly presents with the fringe hair sign.
Scalp Symptoms—The experts noted that the presence of symptoms (eg, pain, tenderness, pruritus) in conjunction with the pattern of hair loss might support the diagnosis of an inflammatory scarring alopecia.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia?
• Suspected in the setting of vertex alopecia associated with tenderness, pain, or itching.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of FFA?
• Suspected when patients experience frontotemporal tenderness, pain, or burning associated with alopecia.
• The skin hue of the affected area might be lighter in color than, and contrast with, the darker hue of the photoaged upper forehead.11
• The lonely hair sign can aid in diagnosing FFA and distinguish it from the fringe sign of traction alopecia.
• Concurrent madarosis, flesh-colored papules on the cheeks, or lichen planus pigmentosus identified by visual inspection of the face confirms the diagnosis.9,12 Madarosis of the eyebrow was frequently cited by the experts as an associated symptom of FFA.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of lichen planopilaris?
• Suspected in the presence of pruritus, burning, tenderness, or pain associated with perifollicular erythema and scale in the setting of vertex and parietal alopecia.13
• Anagen hair release is observed during the hair pull test.11,14• The experts cited flesh-colored papules and lichen planus pigmentosus as frequently associated symptoms of lichen planopilaris.
Practice Implications
There are limitations to a virtual scalp examination—the inability to perform a scalp biopsy or administer certain treatments—but the consensus of the expert panel is that an initial alopecia assessment can be completed successfully utilizing TD. Although TD is not a replacement for an in-person dermatology visit, this technology has allowed for the diagnosis, treatment, and continuing care of many common dermatologic conditions without the patient needing to travel to the office.5
With the increased frequency of hair loss concerns documented over the last year and more patients seeking TD, it is imperative that dermatologists feel confident performing a virtual hair and scalp examination on all patients.1,3,4
- Kutlu Ö, Aktas¸ H, I·mren IG, et al. Short-term stress-related increasing cases of alopecia areata during the COVID-19 pandemic. J Dermatolog Treat. 2020;1. doi:10.1080/09546634.2020.1782820
- Cline A, Kazemi A, Moy J, et al. A surge in the incidence of telogen effluvium in minority predominant communities heavily impacted by COVID-19. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84:773-775. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2020.11.032
- Kutlu Ö, Metin A. Relative changes in the pattern of diseases presenting in dermatology outpatient clinic in the era of the COVID-19 pandemic. Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e14096. doi:10.1111/dth.14096
- Tanacan E, Aksoy Sarac G, Emeksiz MAC, et al. Changing trends in dermatology practice during COVID-19 pandemic: a single tertiary center experience. Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e14136. doi:10.1111/dth.14136
- Sharma A, Jindal V, Singla P, et al. Will teledermatology be the silver lining during and after COVID-19? Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e13643. doi:10.1111/dth.13643
- Iscrupe L. How to receive virtual medical treatment while under quarantine. Allconnect website. Published March 26, 2020. Accessed December 9, 2021. https://www.allconnect.com/blog/online-doctor-visit-faq
- Elgash M, Dlova N, Ogunleye T, et al. Seborrheic dermatitis in skin of color: clinical considerations. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18:24-27.
- McLaurin CI. Annular facial dermatoses in blacks. Cutis. 1983;32:369-370, 384.
- Suchonwanit P, Hector CE, Bin Saif GA, McMichael AJ. Factors affecting the severity of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. Int J Dermatol. 2016;55:e338-343. doi:10.1111/ijd.13061
- Gabros S, Masood S. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. StatPearls [Internet]. StatPearls Publishing; 2021. Updated July 20, 2021. Accessed December 9, 2021. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK559187/
- Ross EK, Tan E, Shapiro J. Update on primary cicatricial alopecias. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005;53:1-37. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2004.06.015
- Cobos G, Kim RH, Meehan S, et al. Lichen planus pigmentosus and lichen planopilaris. Dermatol Online J. 2016;22:13030/qt7hp8n6dn.
- Lyakhovitsky A, Amichai B, Sizopoulou C, et al. A case series of 46 patients with lichen planopilaris: demographics, clinical evaluation, and treatment experience. J Dermatolog Treat. 2015;26:275-279. doi:10.3109/09546634.2014.933165
- Tan E, Martinka M, Ball N, et al. Primary cicatricial alopecias: clinicopathology of 112 cases. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;50:25-32. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2003.04.001
Practice Gap
In accordance with World Health Organization guidelines on social distancing to limit transmission of SARS-CoV-2, dermatologists have relied on teledermatology (TD) to develop novel adaptations of traditional workflows, optimize patient care, and limit in-person appointments during the COVID-19 pandemic. Pandemic-induced physical and emotional stress were anticipated to increase the incidence of dermatologic diseases with psychologic triggers.
The connection between hair loss and emotional stress is well documented for telogen effluvium and alopecia areata.1,2 As anticipated, dermatology visits increased during the COVID-19 pandemic for the diagnosis of alopecia1-4; a survey performed during the pandemic found that alopecia was one of the most common diagnoses dermatologists made through telehealth platforms.5
This article provides a practical guide for dermatology practitioners to efficiently and accurately assess alopecia by TD in all patients, with added considerations for skin of color patients.
Diagnostic Tools
The intersection of TD, as an effective mechanism for the diagnosis and treatment of dermatologic disorders, and the increase in alopecia observed during the COVID-19 pandemic prompted us to develop a workflow for conducting virtual scalp examinations. Seven dermatologists (A.M., A.A., O.A., N.E., V.C., C.M.B., S.C.T.) who are experts in hair disorders contributed to developing workflows to optimize the assessment of alopecia through a virtual scalp examination, with an emphasis on patients of color. These experts completed a 7-question survey (Table) detailing their approach to the virtual scalp examination. One author (B.N.W.) served as an independent reviewer and collated responses into the following workflows.
Telemedicine Previsit Workflow
Components of the previsit workflow include:
• Instruct patients to provide all laboratory values and biopsy reports before the appointment.
• Test for a stable Wi-Fi connection using a speed test (available at https://www.speedtest.net/). A speed of 10 megabits/second or more is required for high-quality video via TD.6
• Provide a handout illustrating the required photographs of the anterior hairline; the mid scalp, including vertex, bilateral parietal, and occipital scalp; and posterior hairline. Photographs should be uploaded 2 hours before the visit. Figures 1 and 2 are examples of photographs that should be requested.
• Request images with 2 or 3 different angles of the area of the scalp with the greatest involvement to help appreciate primary and secondary characteristics.
• Encourage patients to present with clean, recently shampooed, dried, and detangled natural hair, unless they have an itchy or flaky scalp.
• For concerns of scalp, hairline, eyebrow, or facial flaking and scaling, instruct the patient to avoid applying a moisturizer before the visit.
• Instruct the patient to remove false eyelashes, eyelash extensions, eyebrow pencil, hair camouflage, hair accessories, braids, extensions, weaves, twists, and other hairstyles so that the hair can be maneuvered to expose the scalp surface.
• Instruct the patient to have a comb, pic, or brush, or more than one of these implements, available during the visit.
Telemedicine Visit Workflow
Components of the visit workflow include:
• If a stable Wi-Fi connection cannot be established, switch to an audio-only visit to collect a pertinent history. Advise the patient that in-person follow-up must be scheduled.
• Confirm that (1) the patient is in a private setting where the scalp can be viewed and (2) lighting is positioned in front of the patient.
• Ensure that the patient’s hairline, full face, eyebrows, and eyelashes and, upon request, the vertex and posterior scalp, are completely visible.
• Initiate the virtual scalp examination by instructing the patient how to perform a hair pull test. Then, examine the pattern and distribution of hair loss alongside supplemental photographs.
• Instruct the patient to apply pressure with the fingertips throughout the scalp to help localize tenderness, which, in combination with the pattern of hair loss observed, might inform the diagnosis.
• Instruct the patient to scan the scalp with the fingertips for “bumps” to locate papules, pustules, and keloidal scars.
Diagnostic Pearls
Distribution of Alopecia—The experts noted that the pattern, distribution, and location of hair loss determined from the telemedicine alopecia assessment provided important clues to distinguish the type of alopecia.
Diagnostic clues for diffuse or generalized alopecia include:
• Either of these findings might be indicative of telogen effluvium or acquired trichorrhexis nodosa. Results of the hair pull test can help distinguish between these diagnoses.
• Recent stressful life events along with the presence of telogen hairs extracted during a hair pull test support the diagnosis of telogen effluvium.
• A history of external stress on the hair—thermal, traction, or chemical—along with broken hair shafts following the hair pull test support the diagnosis of acquired trichorrhexis nodosa.
Diagnostic clues for focal or patchy alopecia include:
• Alopecia areata generally presents as focal hair loss in an annular distribution; pruritus, erythema, and scale are absent.
• Seborrheic dermatitis can present as pruritic erythematous patches with scale distributed on the scalp and, in some cases, in the eyebrows, nasolabial folds, or paranasal skin.7 Some skin of color patients present with petaloid seborrheic dermatitis—pink or hypopigmented polycyclic coalescing rings with minimal scale.7,8
• Discoid lupus erythematosus, similar to seborrheic dermatitis, might present as pruritic, scaly, hypopigmented patches. However, in the experience of the experts, a more common presentation is tender erythematous patches of hair loss with central hypopigmentation and surrounding hyperpigmentation.
Diagnostic clues for vertex and mid scalp alopecia include:
• Androgenetic alopecia typically presents as a reduction of terminal hair density in the vertex and mid scalp regions (with widening through the midline part) and fine hair along the anterior hairline.9 Signs of concomitant hyperandrogenism, including facial hirsutism, acne, and obesity, might be observed.10
• Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia typically affects the vertex and mid scalp with a shiny scalp appearance and follicular dropout.
Diagnostic clues for frontotemporal alopecia include:
• Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) often presents with spared single terminal hairs (lonely hair sign).
• Traction alopecia commonly presents with the fringe hair sign.
Scalp Symptoms—The experts noted that the presence of symptoms (eg, pain, tenderness, pruritus) in conjunction with the pattern of hair loss might support the diagnosis of an inflammatory scarring alopecia.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia?
• Suspected in the setting of vertex alopecia associated with tenderness, pain, or itching.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of FFA?
• Suspected when patients experience frontotemporal tenderness, pain, or burning associated with alopecia.
• The skin hue of the affected area might be lighter in color than, and contrast with, the darker hue of the photoaged upper forehead.11
• The lonely hair sign can aid in diagnosing FFA and distinguish it from the fringe sign of traction alopecia.
• Concurrent madarosis, flesh-colored papules on the cheeks, or lichen planus pigmentosus identified by visual inspection of the face confirms the diagnosis.9,12 Madarosis of the eyebrow was frequently cited by the experts as an associated symptom of FFA.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of lichen planopilaris?
• Suspected in the presence of pruritus, burning, tenderness, or pain associated with perifollicular erythema and scale in the setting of vertex and parietal alopecia.13
• Anagen hair release is observed during the hair pull test.11,14• The experts cited flesh-colored papules and lichen planus pigmentosus as frequently associated symptoms of lichen planopilaris.
Practice Implications
There are limitations to a virtual scalp examination—the inability to perform a scalp biopsy or administer certain treatments—but the consensus of the expert panel is that an initial alopecia assessment can be completed successfully utilizing TD. Although TD is not a replacement for an in-person dermatology visit, this technology has allowed for the diagnosis, treatment, and continuing care of many common dermatologic conditions without the patient needing to travel to the office.5
With the increased frequency of hair loss concerns documented over the last year and more patients seeking TD, it is imperative that dermatologists feel confident performing a virtual hair and scalp examination on all patients.1,3,4
Practice Gap
In accordance with World Health Organization guidelines on social distancing to limit transmission of SARS-CoV-2, dermatologists have relied on teledermatology (TD) to develop novel adaptations of traditional workflows, optimize patient care, and limit in-person appointments during the COVID-19 pandemic. Pandemic-induced physical and emotional stress were anticipated to increase the incidence of dermatologic diseases with psychologic triggers.
The connection between hair loss and emotional stress is well documented for telogen effluvium and alopecia areata.1,2 As anticipated, dermatology visits increased during the COVID-19 pandemic for the diagnosis of alopecia1-4; a survey performed during the pandemic found that alopecia was one of the most common diagnoses dermatologists made through telehealth platforms.5
This article provides a practical guide for dermatology practitioners to efficiently and accurately assess alopecia by TD in all patients, with added considerations for skin of color patients.
Diagnostic Tools
The intersection of TD, as an effective mechanism for the diagnosis and treatment of dermatologic disorders, and the increase in alopecia observed during the COVID-19 pandemic prompted us to develop a workflow for conducting virtual scalp examinations. Seven dermatologists (A.M., A.A., O.A., N.E., V.C., C.M.B., S.C.T.) who are experts in hair disorders contributed to developing workflows to optimize the assessment of alopecia through a virtual scalp examination, with an emphasis on patients of color. These experts completed a 7-question survey (Table) detailing their approach to the virtual scalp examination. One author (B.N.W.) served as an independent reviewer and collated responses into the following workflows.
Telemedicine Previsit Workflow
Components of the previsit workflow include:
• Instruct patients to provide all laboratory values and biopsy reports before the appointment.
• Test for a stable Wi-Fi connection using a speed test (available at https://www.speedtest.net/). A speed of 10 megabits/second or more is required for high-quality video via TD.6
• Provide a handout illustrating the required photographs of the anterior hairline; the mid scalp, including vertex, bilateral parietal, and occipital scalp; and posterior hairline. Photographs should be uploaded 2 hours before the visit. Figures 1 and 2 are examples of photographs that should be requested.
• Request images with 2 or 3 different angles of the area of the scalp with the greatest involvement to help appreciate primary and secondary characteristics.
• Encourage patients to present with clean, recently shampooed, dried, and detangled natural hair, unless they have an itchy or flaky scalp.
• For concerns of scalp, hairline, eyebrow, or facial flaking and scaling, instruct the patient to avoid applying a moisturizer before the visit.
• Instruct the patient to remove false eyelashes, eyelash extensions, eyebrow pencil, hair camouflage, hair accessories, braids, extensions, weaves, twists, and other hairstyles so that the hair can be maneuvered to expose the scalp surface.
• Instruct the patient to have a comb, pic, or brush, or more than one of these implements, available during the visit.
Telemedicine Visit Workflow
Components of the visit workflow include:
• If a stable Wi-Fi connection cannot be established, switch to an audio-only visit to collect a pertinent history. Advise the patient that in-person follow-up must be scheduled.
• Confirm that (1) the patient is in a private setting where the scalp can be viewed and (2) lighting is positioned in front of the patient.
• Ensure that the patient’s hairline, full face, eyebrows, and eyelashes and, upon request, the vertex and posterior scalp, are completely visible.
• Initiate the virtual scalp examination by instructing the patient how to perform a hair pull test. Then, examine the pattern and distribution of hair loss alongside supplemental photographs.
• Instruct the patient to apply pressure with the fingertips throughout the scalp to help localize tenderness, which, in combination with the pattern of hair loss observed, might inform the diagnosis.
• Instruct the patient to scan the scalp with the fingertips for “bumps” to locate papules, pustules, and keloidal scars.
Diagnostic Pearls
Distribution of Alopecia—The experts noted that the pattern, distribution, and location of hair loss determined from the telemedicine alopecia assessment provided important clues to distinguish the type of alopecia.
Diagnostic clues for diffuse or generalized alopecia include:
• Either of these findings might be indicative of telogen effluvium or acquired trichorrhexis nodosa. Results of the hair pull test can help distinguish between these diagnoses.
• Recent stressful life events along with the presence of telogen hairs extracted during a hair pull test support the diagnosis of telogen effluvium.
• A history of external stress on the hair—thermal, traction, or chemical—along with broken hair shafts following the hair pull test support the diagnosis of acquired trichorrhexis nodosa.
Diagnostic clues for focal or patchy alopecia include:
• Alopecia areata generally presents as focal hair loss in an annular distribution; pruritus, erythema, and scale are absent.
• Seborrheic dermatitis can present as pruritic erythematous patches with scale distributed on the scalp and, in some cases, in the eyebrows, nasolabial folds, or paranasal skin.7 Some skin of color patients present with petaloid seborrheic dermatitis—pink or hypopigmented polycyclic coalescing rings with minimal scale.7,8
• Discoid lupus erythematosus, similar to seborrheic dermatitis, might present as pruritic, scaly, hypopigmented patches. However, in the experience of the experts, a more common presentation is tender erythematous patches of hair loss with central hypopigmentation and surrounding hyperpigmentation.
Diagnostic clues for vertex and mid scalp alopecia include:
• Androgenetic alopecia typically presents as a reduction of terminal hair density in the vertex and mid scalp regions (with widening through the midline part) and fine hair along the anterior hairline.9 Signs of concomitant hyperandrogenism, including facial hirsutism, acne, and obesity, might be observed.10
• Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia typically affects the vertex and mid scalp with a shiny scalp appearance and follicular dropout.
Diagnostic clues for frontotemporal alopecia include:
• Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) often presents with spared single terminal hairs (lonely hair sign).
• Traction alopecia commonly presents with the fringe hair sign.
Scalp Symptoms—The experts noted that the presence of symptoms (eg, pain, tenderness, pruritus) in conjunction with the pattern of hair loss might support the diagnosis of an inflammatory scarring alopecia.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia?
• Suspected in the setting of vertex alopecia associated with tenderness, pain, or itching.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of FFA?
• Suspected when patients experience frontotemporal tenderness, pain, or burning associated with alopecia.
• The skin hue of the affected area might be lighter in color than, and contrast with, the darker hue of the photoaged upper forehead.11
• The lonely hair sign can aid in diagnosing FFA and distinguish it from the fringe sign of traction alopecia.
• Concurrent madarosis, flesh-colored papules on the cheeks, or lichen planus pigmentosus identified by visual inspection of the face confirms the diagnosis.9,12 Madarosis of the eyebrow was frequently cited by the experts as an associated symptom of FFA.
When do symptoms raise suspicion of lichen planopilaris?
• Suspected in the presence of pruritus, burning, tenderness, or pain associated with perifollicular erythema and scale in the setting of vertex and parietal alopecia.13
• Anagen hair release is observed during the hair pull test.11,14• The experts cited flesh-colored papules and lichen planus pigmentosus as frequently associated symptoms of lichen planopilaris.
Practice Implications
There are limitations to a virtual scalp examination—the inability to perform a scalp biopsy or administer certain treatments—but the consensus of the expert panel is that an initial alopecia assessment can be completed successfully utilizing TD. Although TD is not a replacement for an in-person dermatology visit, this technology has allowed for the diagnosis, treatment, and continuing care of many common dermatologic conditions without the patient needing to travel to the office.5
With the increased frequency of hair loss concerns documented over the last year and more patients seeking TD, it is imperative that dermatologists feel confident performing a virtual hair and scalp examination on all patients.1,3,4
- Kutlu Ö, Aktas¸ H, I·mren IG, et al. Short-term stress-related increasing cases of alopecia areata during the COVID-19 pandemic. J Dermatolog Treat. 2020;1. doi:10.1080/09546634.2020.1782820
- Cline A, Kazemi A, Moy J, et al. A surge in the incidence of telogen effluvium in minority predominant communities heavily impacted by COVID-19. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84:773-775. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2020.11.032
- Kutlu Ö, Metin A. Relative changes in the pattern of diseases presenting in dermatology outpatient clinic in the era of the COVID-19 pandemic. Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e14096. doi:10.1111/dth.14096
- Tanacan E, Aksoy Sarac G, Emeksiz MAC, et al. Changing trends in dermatology practice during COVID-19 pandemic: a single tertiary center experience. Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e14136. doi:10.1111/dth.14136
- Sharma A, Jindal V, Singla P, et al. Will teledermatology be the silver lining during and after COVID-19? Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e13643. doi:10.1111/dth.13643
- Iscrupe L. How to receive virtual medical treatment while under quarantine. Allconnect website. Published March 26, 2020. Accessed December 9, 2021. https://www.allconnect.com/blog/online-doctor-visit-faq
- Elgash M, Dlova N, Ogunleye T, et al. Seborrheic dermatitis in skin of color: clinical considerations. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18:24-27.
- McLaurin CI. Annular facial dermatoses in blacks. Cutis. 1983;32:369-370, 384.
- Suchonwanit P, Hector CE, Bin Saif GA, McMichael AJ. Factors affecting the severity of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. Int J Dermatol. 2016;55:e338-343. doi:10.1111/ijd.13061
- Gabros S, Masood S. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. StatPearls [Internet]. StatPearls Publishing; 2021. Updated July 20, 2021. Accessed December 9, 2021. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK559187/
- Ross EK, Tan E, Shapiro J. Update on primary cicatricial alopecias. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005;53:1-37. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2004.06.015
- Cobos G, Kim RH, Meehan S, et al. Lichen planus pigmentosus and lichen planopilaris. Dermatol Online J. 2016;22:13030/qt7hp8n6dn.
- Lyakhovitsky A, Amichai B, Sizopoulou C, et al. A case series of 46 patients with lichen planopilaris: demographics, clinical evaluation, and treatment experience. J Dermatolog Treat. 2015;26:275-279. doi:10.3109/09546634.2014.933165
- Tan E, Martinka M, Ball N, et al. Primary cicatricial alopecias: clinicopathology of 112 cases. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;50:25-32. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2003.04.001
- Kutlu Ö, Aktas¸ H, I·mren IG, et al. Short-term stress-related increasing cases of alopecia areata during the COVID-19 pandemic. J Dermatolog Treat. 2020;1. doi:10.1080/09546634.2020.1782820
- Cline A, Kazemi A, Moy J, et al. A surge in the incidence of telogen effluvium in minority predominant communities heavily impacted by COVID-19. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84:773-775. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2020.11.032
- Kutlu Ö, Metin A. Relative changes in the pattern of diseases presenting in dermatology outpatient clinic in the era of the COVID-19 pandemic. Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e14096. doi:10.1111/dth.14096
- Tanacan E, Aksoy Sarac G, Emeksiz MAC, et al. Changing trends in dermatology practice during COVID-19 pandemic: a single tertiary center experience. Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e14136. doi:10.1111/dth.14136
- Sharma A, Jindal V, Singla P, et al. Will teledermatology be the silver lining during and after COVID-19? Dermatol Ther. 2020;33:e13643. doi:10.1111/dth.13643
- Iscrupe L. How to receive virtual medical treatment while under quarantine. Allconnect website. Published March 26, 2020. Accessed December 9, 2021. https://www.allconnect.com/blog/online-doctor-visit-faq
- Elgash M, Dlova N, Ogunleye T, et al. Seborrheic dermatitis in skin of color: clinical considerations. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18:24-27.
- McLaurin CI. Annular facial dermatoses in blacks. Cutis. 1983;32:369-370, 384.
- Suchonwanit P, Hector CE, Bin Saif GA, McMichael AJ. Factors affecting the severity of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. Int J Dermatol. 2016;55:e338-343. doi:10.1111/ijd.13061
- Gabros S, Masood S. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. StatPearls [Internet]. StatPearls Publishing; 2021. Updated July 20, 2021. Accessed December 9, 2021. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK559187/
- Ross EK, Tan E, Shapiro J. Update on primary cicatricial alopecias. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005;53:1-37. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2004.06.015
- Cobos G, Kim RH, Meehan S, et al. Lichen planus pigmentosus and lichen planopilaris. Dermatol Online J. 2016;22:13030/qt7hp8n6dn.
- Lyakhovitsky A, Amichai B, Sizopoulou C, et al. A case series of 46 patients with lichen planopilaris: demographics, clinical evaluation, and treatment experience. J Dermatolog Treat. 2015;26:275-279. doi:10.3109/09546634.2014.933165
- Tan E, Martinka M, Ball N, et al. Primary cicatricial alopecias: clinicopathology of 112 cases. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;50:25-32. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2003.04.001
Increasing Skin of Color Publications in the Dermatology Literature: A Call to Action
The US population is becoming more diverse. By 2044, it is predicted that there will be a majority minority population in the United States.1 Therefore, it is imperative to continue to develop educational mechanisms for all dermatologists to increase and maintain competency in skin of color dermatology, which will contribute to the achievement of health equity for patients with all skin tones and hair types.
Not only is clinical skin of color education necessary, but diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) education for dermatologists also is critical. Clinical examination,2 diagnosis, and treatment of skin and hair disorders across the skin of color spectrum with cultural humility is essential to achieve health equity. If trainees, dermatologists, other specialists, and primary care clinicians are not frequently exposed to patients with darker skin tones and coily hair, the nuances in diagnosing and treating these patients must be learned in alternate ways.
To ready the nation’s physicians and clinicians to care for the growing diverse population, exposure to more images of dermatologic diseases in those with darker skin tones in journal articles, textbooks, conference lectures, and online dermatology image libraries is necessary to help close the skin of color training and practice gap.3,4 The following initiatives demonstrate how Cutis has sought to address these educational gaps and remains committed to improving DEI education in dermatology.
Collaboration With the Skin of Color Society
The Skin of Color Society (SOCS), which was founded in 2004 by Dr. Susan C. Taylor, is a dermatologic organization with more than 800 members representing 32 countries. Its mission includes promoting awareness and excellence within skin of color dermatology through research, education, and mentorship. The SOCS has utilized strategic partnerships with national and international dermatologists, as well as professional medical organizations and community, industry, and corporate groups, to ultimately ensure that patients with skin of color receive the expert care they deserve.5 In 2017, Cutis published the inaugural article in its collaboration with the SOCS,6 and more articles, which undergo regular peer review, continue to be published quarterly (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/skin-color).
Increase Number of Journal Articles on Skin of Color Topics
Increasing the number of journal articles on skin of color–related topics needs to be intentional, as it is a tool that has been identified as a necessary part of enhancing awareness and subsequently improving patient care. Wilson et al7 used stringent criteria to review all articles published from January 2018 to October 2020 in 52 dermatology journals for inclusion of topics on skin of color, hair in patients with skin of color, diversity and inclusion, and socioeconomic and health care disparities in the skin of color population. The journals they reviewed included publications based on continents with majority skin of color populations, such as Asia, as well as those with minority skin of color populations, such as Europe. During the study period, the percentage of articles covering skin of color ranged from 2.04% to 61.8%, with an average of 16.8%.7
The total number of Cutis articles published during the study period was 709, with 132 (18.62%) meeting the investigators’ criteria for articles on skin of color; these included case reports in which at least 1 patient with skin of color was featured.7 Overall, Cutis ranked 16th of the 52 journals for inclusion of skin of color content. Cutis was one of only a few journals based in North America, a non–skin-of-color–predominant continent, to make the top 16 in this study.7
Some of the 132 skin of color articles published in Cutis were the result of the journal’s collaboration with the SOCS. Through this collaboration, articles were published on a variety of skin of color topics, including DEI (6), alopecia and hair care (5), dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging (1), atopic dermatitis (1), cosmetics (1), hidradenitis suppurativa (1), pigmentation (1), rosacea (1), and skin cancer (2). These articles also resulted in a number of podcast discussions (https://www.mdedge.com/podcasts/dermatology-weekly), including one on dealing with DEI, one on pigmentation, and one on dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging. The latter featured the SOCS Scientific Symposium poster winners in 2020.
The number of articles published specifically through Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS accounted for only a small part of the journal’s 132 skin of color articles identified in the study by Wilson et al.7 We speculate that Cutis’s display of intentional commitment to supporting the inclusion of skin of color articles in the journal may in turn encourage its broader readership to submit more skin of color–focused articles for peer review.
Wilson et al7 specifically remarked that “Cutis’s [Skin of Color] section in each issue is a promising idea.” They also highlighted Clinics in Dermatology for committing an entire issue to skin of color; however, despite this initiative, Clinics in Dermatology still ranked 35th of 52 journals with regard to the overall percentage of skin of color articles published.7 This suggests that a journal publishing one special issue on skin of color annually is a helpful addition to the literature, but increasing the number of articles related to skin of color in each journal issue, similar to Cutis, will ultimately result in a higher overall number of skin of color articles in the dermatology literature.
Both Amuzie et al4 and Wilson et al7 concluded that the higher a journal’s impact factor, the lower the number of skin of color articles published.However, skin of color articles published in high-impact journals received a higher number of citations than those in other lower-impact journals.4 High-impact journals may use Cutis as a model for increasing the number of skin of color articles they publish, which will have a notable impact on increasing skin of color knowledge and educating dermatologists.
Coverage of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion
In another study, Bray et al8 conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from January 2008 to July 2019 to quantify the number of articles specifically focused on DEI in a variety of medical specialties. The field of dermatology had the highest number of articles published on DEI (25) compared to the other specialties, including family medicine (23), orthopedic surgery (12), internal medicine (9), general surgery (7), radiology (6), ophthalmology (2), and anesthesiology (2).8 However, Wilson et al7 found that, out of all the categories of skin of color articles published in dermatology journals during their study period, those focused on DEI made up less than 1% of the total number of articles. Dermatology is off to a great start compared to other specialties, but there is still more work to do in dermatology for DEI. Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS has resulted in 6 DEI articles published since 2017.
Think Beyond Dermatology Education
The collaboration between Cutis and the SOCS was established to create a series of articles dedicated to increasing the skin of color dermatology knowledge base of the Cutis readership and beyond; however, increased readership and more citations are needed to amplify the reach of the articles published by these skin of color experts. Cutis’s collaboration with SOCS is one mechanism to increase the skin of color literature, but skin of color and DEI articles outside of this collaboration should continue to be published in each issue of Cutis.
The collaboration between SOCS and Cutis was and continues to be a forward-thinking step toward improving skin of color dermatology education, but there is still work to be done across the medical literature with regard to increasing intentional publication of skin of color articles. Nondermatologist clinicians in the Cutis readership benefit from knowledge of skin of color, as all specialties and primary care will see increased patient diversity in their examination rooms.
To further ensure that primary care is not left behind, Cutis has partnered with The Journal of Family Practice to produce a new column called Dx Across the Skin of Color Spectrum (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/dx-across-skin-color-spectrum), which is co-published in both journals.9,10 These one-page fact sheets highlight images of dermatologic conditions in skin of color as well as images of the same condition in lighter skin, a concept suggested by Cutis Associate Editor, Dr. Candrice R. Heath. The goal of this new column is to increase the accurate diagnosis of dermatologic conditions in skin of color and to highlight health disparities related to a particular condition in an easy-to-understand format. Uniquely, Dr. Heath co-authors this content with family physician Dr. Richard P. Usatine.
Final Thoughts
The entire community of medical journals should continue to develop creative ways to educate their readership. Medical professionals stay up-to-date on best practices through journal articles, textbooks, conferences, and even podcasts. Therefore, it is best to incorporate skin of color knowledge throughout all educational programming, particularly through enduring materials such as journal articles. Wilson et al7 suggested that a minimum of 16.8% of a dermatology journal’s articles in each issue should focus on skin of color in addition to special focus issues, as this will work toward more equitable dermatologic care.
Knowledge is only part of the equation; compassionate care with cultural humility is the other part. Publishing scientific facts about biology and structure, diagnosis, and treatment selection in skin of color, as well as committing to lifelong learning about the differences in our patients despite the absence of shared life or cultural experiences, may be the key to truly impacting health equity.11 We believe that together we will get there one journal article and one citation at a time.
- Colby SL, Ortman JM. Projections of the size and composition of the U.S. population: 2014 to 2060. United States Census Bureau website. Published March 2015. Accessed August 11, 2021. https://www.census.gov/content/dam/Census/library/publications/2015/demo/p25-1143.pdf
- Grayson C, Heath C. An approach to examining tightly coiled hair among patients with hair loss in race-discordant patient-physician interactions. JAMA Dermatol. 2021;157:505-506. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2021.0338
- Alvarado SM, Feng H. Representation of dark skin images of common dermatologic conditions in educational resources: a cross-sectional analysis. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84:1427-1431. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2020.06.041
- Amuzie AU, Jia JL, Taylor SC, et al. Skin-of-color article representation in dermatology literature 2009-2019: higher citation counts and opportunities for inclusion [published online March 24, 2021]. J Am Acad Dermatol. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2021.03.063
- Learn more about SOCS. Skin of Color Society website. Accessed August 11, 2021. https://skinofcolorsociety.org/about-socs/
- Subash J, Tull R, McMichael A. Diversity in dermatology: a society devoted to skin of color. Cutis. 2017;99:322-324.
- Wilson BN, Sun M, Ashbaugh AG, et al. Assessment of skin of colorand diversity and inclusion content of dermatologic published literature: an analysis and call to action [published online April 20, 2021]. Int J Womens Dermatol. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2021.04.001
- Bray JK, McMichael AJ, Huang WW, et al. Publication rates on the topic of racial and ethnic diversity in dermatology versus other specialties. Dermatol Online J. 2020;26:13030/qt094243gp.
- Heath CR, Usatine R. Atopic dermatitis. Cutis. 2021;107:332. doi:10.12788/cutis.0274
- Heath CR, Usatine R. Psoriasis. Cutis. 2021;108:56. doi:10.12788/cutis.0298
- Jones N, Heath CR. Hair at the intersection of dermatology and anthropology: a conversation on race and relationships [published online August 3, 2021]. Pediatr Dermatol. doi:10.1111/pde.14721
The US population is becoming more diverse. By 2044, it is predicted that there will be a majority minority population in the United States.1 Therefore, it is imperative to continue to develop educational mechanisms for all dermatologists to increase and maintain competency in skin of color dermatology, which will contribute to the achievement of health equity for patients with all skin tones and hair types.
Not only is clinical skin of color education necessary, but diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) education for dermatologists also is critical. Clinical examination,2 diagnosis, and treatment of skin and hair disorders across the skin of color spectrum with cultural humility is essential to achieve health equity. If trainees, dermatologists, other specialists, and primary care clinicians are not frequently exposed to patients with darker skin tones and coily hair, the nuances in diagnosing and treating these patients must be learned in alternate ways.
To ready the nation’s physicians and clinicians to care for the growing diverse population, exposure to more images of dermatologic diseases in those with darker skin tones in journal articles, textbooks, conference lectures, and online dermatology image libraries is necessary to help close the skin of color training and practice gap.3,4 The following initiatives demonstrate how Cutis has sought to address these educational gaps and remains committed to improving DEI education in dermatology.
Collaboration With the Skin of Color Society
The Skin of Color Society (SOCS), which was founded in 2004 by Dr. Susan C. Taylor, is a dermatologic organization with more than 800 members representing 32 countries. Its mission includes promoting awareness and excellence within skin of color dermatology through research, education, and mentorship. The SOCS has utilized strategic partnerships with national and international dermatologists, as well as professional medical organizations and community, industry, and corporate groups, to ultimately ensure that patients with skin of color receive the expert care they deserve.5 In 2017, Cutis published the inaugural article in its collaboration with the SOCS,6 and more articles, which undergo regular peer review, continue to be published quarterly (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/skin-color).
Increase Number of Journal Articles on Skin of Color Topics
Increasing the number of journal articles on skin of color–related topics needs to be intentional, as it is a tool that has been identified as a necessary part of enhancing awareness and subsequently improving patient care. Wilson et al7 used stringent criteria to review all articles published from January 2018 to October 2020 in 52 dermatology journals for inclusion of topics on skin of color, hair in patients with skin of color, diversity and inclusion, and socioeconomic and health care disparities in the skin of color population. The journals they reviewed included publications based on continents with majority skin of color populations, such as Asia, as well as those with minority skin of color populations, such as Europe. During the study period, the percentage of articles covering skin of color ranged from 2.04% to 61.8%, with an average of 16.8%.7
The total number of Cutis articles published during the study period was 709, with 132 (18.62%) meeting the investigators’ criteria for articles on skin of color; these included case reports in which at least 1 patient with skin of color was featured.7 Overall, Cutis ranked 16th of the 52 journals for inclusion of skin of color content. Cutis was one of only a few journals based in North America, a non–skin-of-color–predominant continent, to make the top 16 in this study.7
Some of the 132 skin of color articles published in Cutis were the result of the journal’s collaboration with the SOCS. Through this collaboration, articles were published on a variety of skin of color topics, including DEI (6), alopecia and hair care (5), dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging (1), atopic dermatitis (1), cosmetics (1), hidradenitis suppurativa (1), pigmentation (1), rosacea (1), and skin cancer (2). These articles also resulted in a number of podcast discussions (https://www.mdedge.com/podcasts/dermatology-weekly), including one on dealing with DEI, one on pigmentation, and one on dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging. The latter featured the SOCS Scientific Symposium poster winners in 2020.
The number of articles published specifically through Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS accounted for only a small part of the journal’s 132 skin of color articles identified in the study by Wilson et al.7 We speculate that Cutis’s display of intentional commitment to supporting the inclusion of skin of color articles in the journal may in turn encourage its broader readership to submit more skin of color–focused articles for peer review.
Wilson et al7 specifically remarked that “Cutis’s [Skin of Color] section in each issue is a promising idea.” They also highlighted Clinics in Dermatology for committing an entire issue to skin of color; however, despite this initiative, Clinics in Dermatology still ranked 35th of 52 journals with regard to the overall percentage of skin of color articles published.7 This suggests that a journal publishing one special issue on skin of color annually is a helpful addition to the literature, but increasing the number of articles related to skin of color in each journal issue, similar to Cutis, will ultimately result in a higher overall number of skin of color articles in the dermatology literature.
Both Amuzie et al4 and Wilson et al7 concluded that the higher a journal’s impact factor, the lower the number of skin of color articles published.However, skin of color articles published in high-impact journals received a higher number of citations than those in other lower-impact journals.4 High-impact journals may use Cutis as a model for increasing the number of skin of color articles they publish, which will have a notable impact on increasing skin of color knowledge and educating dermatologists.
Coverage of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion
In another study, Bray et al8 conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from January 2008 to July 2019 to quantify the number of articles specifically focused on DEI in a variety of medical specialties. The field of dermatology had the highest number of articles published on DEI (25) compared to the other specialties, including family medicine (23), orthopedic surgery (12), internal medicine (9), general surgery (7), radiology (6), ophthalmology (2), and anesthesiology (2).8 However, Wilson et al7 found that, out of all the categories of skin of color articles published in dermatology journals during their study period, those focused on DEI made up less than 1% of the total number of articles. Dermatology is off to a great start compared to other specialties, but there is still more work to do in dermatology for DEI. Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS has resulted in 6 DEI articles published since 2017.
Think Beyond Dermatology Education
The collaboration between Cutis and the SOCS was established to create a series of articles dedicated to increasing the skin of color dermatology knowledge base of the Cutis readership and beyond; however, increased readership and more citations are needed to amplify the reach of the articles published by these skin of color experts. Cutis’s collaboration with SOCS is one mechanism to increase the skin of color literature, but skin of color and DEI articles outside of this collaboration should continue to be published in each issue of Cutis.
The collaboration between SOCS and Cutis was and continues to be a forward-thinking step toward improving skin of color dermatology education, but there is still work to be done across the medical literature with regard to increasing intentional publication of skin of color articles. Nondermatologist clinicians in the Cutis readership benefit from knowledge of skin of color, as all specialties and primary care will see increased patient diversity in their examination rooms.
To further ensure that primary care is not left behind, Cutis has partnered with The Journal of Family Practice to produce a new column called Dx Across the Skin of Color Spectrum (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/dx-across-skin-color-spectrum), which is co-published in both journals.9,10 These one-page fact sheets highlight images of dermatologic conditions in skin of color as well as images of the same condition in lighter skin, a concept suggested by Cutis Associate Editor, Dr. Candrice R. Heath. The goal of this new column is to increase the accurate diagnosis of dermatologic conditions in skin of color and to highlight health disparities related to a particular condition in an easy-to-understand format. Uniquely, Dr. Heath co-authors this content with family physician Dr. Richard P. Usatine.
Final Thoughts
The entire community of medical journals should continue to develop creative ways to educate their readership. Medical professionals stay up-to-date on best practices through journal articles, textbooks, conferences, and even podcasts. Therefore, it is best to incorporate skin of color knowledge throughout all educational programming, particularly through enduring materials such as journal articles. Wilson et al7 suggested that a minimum of 16.8% of a dermatology journal’s articles in each issue should focus on skin of color in addition to special focus issues, as this will work toward more equitable dermatologic care.
Knowledge is only part of the equation; compassionate care with cultural humility is the other part. Publishing scientific facts about biology and structure, diagnosis, and treatment selection in skin of color, as well as committing to lifelong learning about the differences in our patients despite the absence of shared life or cultural experiences, may be the key to truly impacting health equity.11 We believe that together we will get there one journal article and one citation at a time.
The US population is becoming more diverse. By 2044, it is predicted that there will be a majority minority population in the United States.1 Therefore, it is imperative to continue to develop educational mechanisms for all dermatologists to increase and maintain competency in skin of color dermatology, which will contribute to the achievement of health equity for patients with all skin tones and hair types.
Not only is clinical skin of color education necessary, but diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) education for dermatologists also is critical. Clinical examination,2 diagnosis, and treatment of skin and hair disorders across the skin of color spectrum with cultural humility is essential to achieve health equity. If trainees, dermatologists, other specialists, and primary care clinicians are not frequently exposed to patients with darker skin tones and coily hair, the nuances in diagnosing and treating these patients must be learned in alternate ways.
To ready the nation’s physicians and clinicians to care for the growing diverse population, exposure to more images of dermatologic diseases in those with darker skin tones in journal articles, textbooks, conference lectures, and online dermatology image libraries is necessary to help close the skin of color training and practice gap.3,4 The following initiatives demonstrate how Cutis has sought to address these educational gaps and remains committed to improving DEI education in dermatology.
Collaboration With the Skin of Color Society
The Skin of Color Society (SOCS), which was founded in 2004 by Dr. Susan C. Taylor, is a dermatologic organization with more than 800 members representing 32 countries. Its mission includes promoting awareness and excellence within skin of color dermatology through research, education, and mentorship. The SOCS has utilized strategic partnerships with national and international dermatologists, as well as professional medical organizations and community, industry, and corporate groups, to ultimately ensure that patients with skin of color receive the expert care they deserve.5 In 2017, Cutis published the inaugural article in its collaboration with the SOCS,6 and more articles, which undergo regular peer review, continue to be published quarterly (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/skin-color).
Increase Number of Journal Articles on Skin of Color Topics
Increasing the number of journal articles on skin of color–related topics needs to be intentional, as it is a tool that has been identified as a necessary part of enhancing awareness and subsequently improving patient care. Wilson et al7 used stringent criteria to review all articles published from January 2018 to October 2020 in 52 dermatology journals for inclusion of topics on skin of color, hair in patients with skin of color, diversity and inclusion, and socioeconomic and health care disparities in the skin of color population. The journals they reviewed included publications based on continents with majority skin of color populations, such as Asia, as well as those with minority skin of color populations, such as Europe. During the study period, the percentage of articles covering skin of color ranged from 2.04% to 61.8%, with an average of 16.8%.7
The total number of Cutis articles published during the study period was 709, with 132 (18.62%) meeting the investigators’ criteria for articles on skin of color; these included case reports in which at least 1 patient with skin of color was featured.7 Overall, Cutis ranked 16th of the 52 journals for inclusion of skin of color content. Cutis was one of only a few journals based in North America, a non–skin-of-color–predominant continent, to make the top 16 in this study.7
Some of the 132 skin of color articles published in Cutis were the result of the journal’s collaboration with the SOCS. Through this collaboration, articles were published on a variety of skin of color topics, including DEI (6), alopecia and hair care (5), dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging (1), atopic dermatitis (1), cosmetics (1), hidradenitis suppurativa (1), pigmentation (1), rosacea (1), and skin cancer (2). These articles also resulted in a number of podcast discussions (https://www.mdedge.com/podcasts/dermatology-weekly), including one on dealing with DEI, one on pigmentation, and one on dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging. The latter featured the SOCS Scientific Symposium poster winners in 2020.
The number of articles published specifically through Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS accounted for only a small part of the journal’s 132 skin of color articles identified in the study by Wilson et al.7 We speculate that Cutis’s display of intentional commitment to supporting the inclusion of skin of color articles in the journal may in turn encourage its broader readership to submit more skin of color–focused articles for peer review.
Wilson et al7 specifically remarked that “Cutis’s [Skin of Color] section in each issue is a promising idea.” They also highlighted Clinics in Dermatology for committing an entire issue to skin of color; however, despite this initiative, Clinics in Dermatology still ranked 35th of 52 journals with regard to the overall percentage of skin of color articles published.7 This suggests that a journal publishing one special issue on skin of color annually is a helpful addition to the literature, but increasing the number of articles related to skin of color in each journal issue, similar to Cutis, will ultimately result in a higher overall number of skin of color articles in the dermatology literature.
Both Amuzie et al4 and Wilson et al7 concluded that the higher a journal’s impact factor, the lower the number of skin of color articles published.However, skin of color articles published in high-impact journals received a higher number of citations than those in other lower-impact journals.4 High-impact journals may use Cutis as a model for increasing the number of skin of color articles they publish, which will have a notable impact on increasing skin of color knowledge and educating dermatologists.
Coverage of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion
In another study, Bray et al8 conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from January 2008 to July 2019 to quantify the number of articles specifically focused on DEI in a variety of medical specialties. The field of dermatology had the highest number of articles published on DEI (25) compared to the other specialties, including family medicine (23), orthopedic surgery (12), internal medicine (9), general surgery (7), radiology (6), ophthalmology (2), and anesthesiology (2).8 However, Wilson et al7 found that, out of all the categories of skin of color articles published in dermatology journals during their study period, those focused on DEI made up less than 1% of the total number of articles. Dermatology is off to a great start compared to other specialties, but there is still more work to do in dermatology for DEI. Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS has resulted in 6 DEI articles published since 2017.
Think Beyond Dermatology Education
The collaboration between Cutis and the SOCS was established to create a series of articles dedicated to increasing the skin of color dermatology knowledge base of the Cutis readership and beyond; however, increased readership and more citations are needed to amplify the reach of the articles published by these skin of color experts. Cutis’s collaboration with SOCS is one mechanism to increase the skin of color literature, but skin of color and DEI articles outside of this collaboration should continue to be published in each issue of Cutis.
The collaboration between SOCS and Cutis was and continues to be a forward-thinking step toward improving skin of color dermatology education, but there is still work to be done across the medical literature with regard to increasing intentional publication of skin of color articles. Nondermatologist clinicians in the Cutis readership benefit from knowledge of skin of color, as all specialties and primary care will see increased patient diversity in their examination rooms.
To further ensure that primary care is not left behind, Cutis has partnered with The Journal of Family Practice to produce a new column called Dx Across the Skin of Color Spectrum (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/dx-across-skin-color-spectrum), which is co-published in both journals.9,10 These one-page fact sheets highlight images of dermatologic conditions in skin of color as well as images of the same condition in lighter skin, a concept suggested by Cutis Associate Editor, Dr. Candrice R. Heath. The goal of this new column is to increase the accurate diagnosis of dermatologic conditions in skin of color and to highlight health disparities related to a particular condition in an easy-to-understand format. Uniquely, Dr. Heath co-authors this content with family physician Dr. Richard P. Usatine.
Final Thoughts
The entire community of medical journals should continue to develop creative ways to educate their readership. Medical professionals stay up-to-date on best practices through journal articles, textbooks, conferences, and even podcasts. Therefore, it is best to incorporate skin of color knowledge throughout all educational programming, particularly through enduring materials such as journal articles. Wilson et al7 suggested that a minimum of 16.8% of a dermatology journal’s articles in each issue should focus on skin of color in addition to special focus issues, as this will work toward more equitable dermatologic care.
Knowledge is only part of the equation; compassionate care with cultural humility is the other part. Publishing scientific facts about biology and structure, diagnosis, and treatment selection in skin of color, as well as committing to lifelong learning about the differences in our patients despite the absence of shared life or cultural experiences, may be the key to truly impacting health equity.11 We believe that together we will get there one journal article and one citation at a time.
- Colby SL, Ortman JM. Projections of the size and composition of the U.S. population: 2014 to 2060. United States Census Bureau website. Published March 2015. Accessed August 11, 2021. https://www.census.gov/content/dam/Census/library/publications/2015/demo/p25-1143.pdf
- Grayson C, Heath C. An approach to examining tightly coiled hair among patients with hair loss in race-discordant patient-physician interactions. JAMA Dermatol. 2021;157:505-506. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2021.0338
- Alvarado SM, Feng H. Representation of dark skin images of common dermatologic conditions in educational resources: a cross-sectional analysis. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84:1427-1431. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2020.06.041
- Amuzie AU, Jia JL, Taylor SC, et al. Skin-of-color article representation in dermatology literature 2009-2019: higher citation counts and opportunities for inclusion [published online March 24, 2021]. J Am Acad Dermatol. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2021.03.063
- Learn more about SOCS. Skin of Color Society website. Accessed August 11, 2021. https://skinofcolorsociety.org/about-socs/
- Subash J, Tull R, McMichael A. Diversity in dermatology: a society devoted to skin of color. Cutis. 2017;99:322-324.
- Wilson BN, Sun M, Ashbaugh AG, et al. Assessment of skin of colorand diversity and inclusion content of dermatologic published literature: an analysis and call to action [published online April 20, 2021]. Int J Womens Dermatol. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2021.04.001
- Bray JK, McMichael AJ, Huang WW, et al. Publication rates on the topic of racial and ethnic diversity in dermatology versus other specialties. Dermatol Online J. 2020;26:13030/qt094243gp.
- Heath CR, Usatine R. Atopic dermatitis. Cutis. 2021;107:332. doi:10.12788/cutis.0274
- Heath CR, Usatine R. Psoriasis. Cutis. 2021;108:56. doi:10.12788/cutis.0298
- Jones N, Heath CR. Hair at the intersection of dermatology and anthropology: a conversation on race and relationships [published online August 3, 2021]. Pediatr Dermatol. doi:10.1111/pde.14721
- Colby SL, Ortman JM. Projections of the size and composition of the U.S. population: 2014 to 2060. United States Census Bureau website. Published March 2015. Accessed August 11, 2021. https://www.census.gov/content/dam/Census/library/publications/2015/demo/p25-1143.pdf
- Grayson C, Heath C. An approach to examining tightly coiled hair among patients with hair loss in race-discordant patient-physician interactions. JAMA Dermatol. 2021;157:505-506. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2021.0338
- Alvarado SM, Feng H. Representation of dark skin images of common dermatologic conditions in educational resources: a cross-sectional analysis. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84:1427-1431. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2020.06.041
- Amuzie AU, Jia JL, Taylor SC, et al. Skin-of-color article representation in dermatology literature 2009-2019: higher citation counts and opportunities for inclusion [published online March 24, 2021]. J Am Acad Dermatol. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2021.03.063
- Learn more about SOCS. Skin of Color Society website. Accessed August 11, 2021. https://skinofcolorsociety.org/about-socs/
- Subash J, Tull R, McMichael A. Diversity in dermatology: a society devoted to skin of color. Cutis. 2017;99:322-324.
- Wilson BN, Sun M, Ashbaugh AG, et al. Assessment of skin of colorand diversity and inclusion content of dermatologic published literature: an analysis and call to action [published online April 20, 2021]. Int J Womens Dermatol. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2021.04.001
- Bray JK, McMichael AJ, Huang WW, et al. Publication rates on the topic of racial and ethnic diversity in dermatology versus other specialties. Dermatol Online J. 2020;26:13030/qt094243gp.
- Heath CR, Usatine R. Atopic dermatitis. Cutis. 2021;107:332. doi:10.12788/cutis.0274
- Heath CR, Usatine R. Psoriasis. Cutis. 2021;108:56. doi:10.12788/cutis.0298
- Jones N, Heath CR. Hair at the intersection of dermatology and anthropology: a conversation on race and relationships [published online August 3, 2021]. Pediatr Dermatol. doi:10.1111/pde.14721
Practice Points
- Submitting more articles related to skin of color for peer review and publication will increase educational opportunities.
- Journals that publish skin of color articles play a critical role in reducing educational gaps and ultimately help improve patient care for those with skin of color.
Multiethnic Training in Residency: A Survey of Dermatology Residents
Dermatologic treatment of patients with skin of color offers specific challenges. Studies have reported structural, morphologic, and physiologic distinctions among different ethnic groups,1 which may account for distinct clinical presentations of skin disease seen in patients with skin of color. Patients with skin of color are at increased risk for specific dermatologic conditions, such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, keloid development, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia.2,3 Furthermore, although skin cancer is less prevalent in patients with skin of color, it often presents at a more advanced stage and with a worse prognosis compared to white patients.4
Prior studies have demonstrated the need for increased exposure, education, and training in diseases pertaining to skin of color in US dermatology residency programs.6-8 The aim of this study was to assess if dermatologists in-training feel that their residency curriculum sufficiently educates them on the needs of patients with skin of color.
Methods
A 10-question anonymous survey was emailed to 109 dermatology residency programs to evaluate the attitudes of dermatology residents about their exposure to patients with skin of color and their skin-of-color curriculum. The study included individuals 18 years or older who were current residents in a dermatology program accredited by the Accreditation Council for Graduate Medical Education.
Results
When asked the number of hours of lecture per month necessary to gain competence in conditions affecting patients with skin of color, 67% agreed that 1 to 5 hours was sufficient (Table 3). There were significant differences in the responses between the NE and SE (P=.024) and the SE and MW (P=.007). Of all respondents, 53% reported 1 to 5 months of clinical training are needed to gain competence in treating conditions affecting patients with skin of color, with significant differences in responses between the NE and MW (P<.001), the NE and SW (P=.019), and the SE and MW (P=.015)(Table 4).
Comment
Responses varied by practicing region
Although interactive lectures and textbook readings are important for obtaining a foundational understanding of dermatologic disease, they cannot substitute for clinical interactions and hands-on experience treating patients with skin of color.9 Not only do clinical interactions encourage independent reading and the study of encountered diagnoses, but intercommunication with patients may have a more profound and lasting impact on residents’ education.
Different regions of the United States have varying distributions of patients with skin of color, and dermatology residency program training reflects these disparities.6 In areas of less diversity, dermatology residents examine, diagnose, and treat substantially fewer patients with skin of color. The desire for more diverse training supports the prior findings of Nijhawan et al6 and is reflected in the responses we received in our study, whereby residents from the less ethnically diversified regions of the MW and NW were more likely to agree that clinics and rotations were necessary for training in preparation to sufficiently address the needs of patients with skin of color.
One way to compensate for the lack of ethnic diversity encountered in areas such as the MW and NW would be to develop educational programs featuring experts on skin of color.6 These specialists would not only train dermatology residents in areas of the country currently lacking ethnic diversity but also expand the expertise for treating patients with skin of color. Additionally, dedicated multiethnic skin clinics and externships devoted solely to treating patients with skin of color could be encouraged for residency training.6 Finally, community outreach through volunteer clinics may provide residents exposure to patients with skin of color seeking dermatologic care.10
This study was limited by the small number of respondents, but we were able to extract important trends and data from the collected responses. It is possible that respondents felt strongly about topics involving patients with skin of color, and the results were skewed to reflect individual bias. Additional limitations included not asking respondents for program names and population density (eg, urban, suburban, rural). Future studies should be directed toward analyzing how the diversity of the local population influences training in patients with skin of color, comparing program directors’ perceptions with residents’ perceptions on training in skin of color, and assessing patient perception of residents’ training in skin of color.
Conclusion
In the last decade it has become increasingly apparent that the US population is diversifying and that patients with skin of color will comprise a substantial proportion of the future population,8,11 which emphasizes the need for dermatology residency programs to ensure that residents receive adequate training and exposure to patients with skin of color as well as the distinct skin diseases seen more commonly in these populations.12
- Luther N, Darvin ME, Sterry W, et al. Ethnic differences in skin physiology, hair follicle morphology and follicular penetration. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2012;25:182-191.
- Shokeen D. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients with skin of color. Cutis. 2016;97:E9-E11.
- Lawson CN, Hollinger J, Sethi S, et al. Updates in the understanding and treatments of skin & hair disorders in women of color. Int J Women’s Dermatol. 2017;3:S21-S37.
- Hu S, Parmet Y, Allen G, et al. Disparity in melanoma: a trend analysis of melanoma incidence and stage at diagnosis among whites, Hispanics, and blacks in Florida. Arch Dermatol. 2009;145:1369-1374.
- Colby SL, Ortman JM; US Census Bureau. Projections of the Size and Composition of the U.S. Population: 2014 to 2060. Washington, DC: US Census Bureau; 2014. Current Population Reports, P25-1143. https://census.gov/content/dam/Census/library/publications/2015/demo/p25-1143.pdf. Published March 2015. Accessed May 13, 2020.
- Nijhawan RI, Jacob SE, Woolery-Lloyd H. Skin of color education in dermatology residency programs: does residency training reflect the changing demographics of the United States? J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008;59:615-618.
- Pritchett EN, Pandya AG, Ferguson NN, et al. Diversity in dermatology: roadmap for improvement. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2018;79:337-341.
- Pandya AG, Alexis AF, Berger TG, et al. Increasing racial and ethnic diversity in dermatology: a call to action. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016;74:584-587.
- Ernst H, Colthorpe K. The efficacy of interactive lecturing for students with diverse science backgrounds. Adv Physiol Educ. 2007;31:41-44.
- Allday E. UCSF opens ‘skin of color’ dermatology clinic to address disparity in care. San Francisco Chronicle. March 20, 2019. https://www.sfchronicle.com/health/article/UCSF-opens-skin-of-color-dermatology-clinic-13704387.php. Accessed May 13, 2020.
- Van Voorhees AS, Enos CW. Diversity in dermatology residency programs. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2017;18:S46-S49.
- Enos CW, Harvey VM. From bench to bedside: the Hampton University Skin of Color Research Institute 2015 Skin of Color Symposium. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2017;18:S29-S30.
Dermatologic treatment of patients with skin of color offers specific challenges. Studies have reported structural, morphologic, and physiologic distinctions among different ethnic groups,1 which may account for distinct clinical presentations of skin disease seen in patients with skin of color. Patients with skin of color are at increased risk for specific dermatologic conditions, such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, keloid development, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia.2,3 Furthermore, although skin cancer is less prevalent in patients with skin of color, it often presents at a more advanced stage and with a worse prognosis compared to white patients.4
Prior studies have demonstrated the need for increased exposure, education, and training in diseases pertaining to skin of color in US dermatology residency programs.6-8 The aim of this study was to assess if dermatologists in-training feel that their residency curriculum sufficiently educates them on the needs of patients with skin of color.
Methods
A 10-question anonymous survey was emailed to 109 dermatology residency programs to evaluate the attitudes of dermatology residents about their exposure to patients with skin of color and their skin-of-color curriculum. The study included individuals 18 years or older who were current residents in a dermatology program accredited by the Accreditation Council for Graduate Medical Education.
Results
When asked the number of hours of lecture per month necessary to gain competence in conditions affecting patients with skin of color, 67% agreed that 1 to 5 hours was sufficient (Table 3). There were significant differences in the responses between the NE and SE (P=.024) and the SE and MW (P=.007). Of all respondents, 53% reported 1 to 5 months of clinical training are needed to gain competence in treating conditions affecting patients with skin of color, with significant differences in responses between the NE and MW (P<.001), the NE and SW (P=.019), and the SE and MW (P=.015)(Table 4).
Comment
Responses varied by practicing region
Although interactive lectures and textbook readings are important for obtaining a foundational understanding of dermatologic disease, they cannot substitute for clinical interactions and hands-on experience treating patients with skin of color.9 Not only do clinical interactions encourage independent reading and the study of encountered diagnoses, but intercommunication with patients may have a more profound and lasting impact on residents’ education.
Different regions of the United States have varying distributions of patients with skin of color, and dermatology residency program training reflects these disparities.6 In areas of less diversity, dermatology residents examine, diagnose, and treat substantially fewer patients with skin of color. The desire for more diverse training supports the prior findings of Nijhawan et al6 and is reflected in the responses we received in our study, whereby residents from the less ethnically diversified regions of the MW and NW were more likely to agree that clinics and rotations were necessary for training in preparation to sufficiently address the needs of patients with skin of color.
One way to compensate for the lack of ethnic diversity encountered in areas such as the MW and NW would be to develop educational programs featuring experts on skin of color.6 These specialists would not only train dermatology residents in areas of the country currently lacking ethnic diversity but also expand the expertise for treating patients with skin of color. Additionally, dedicated multiethnic skin clinics and externships devoted solely to treating patients with skin of color could be encouraged for residency training.6 Finally, community outreach through volunteer clinics may provide residents exposure to patients with skin of color seeking dermatologic care.10
This study was limited by the small number of respondents, but we were able to extract important trends and data from the collected responses. It is possible that respondents felt strongly about topics involving patients with skin of color, and the results were skewed to reflect individual bias. Additional limitations included not asking respondents for program names and population density (eg, urban, suburban, rural). Future studies should be directed toward analyzing how the diversity of the local population influences training in patients with skin of color, comparing program directors’ perceptions with residents’ perceptions on training in skin of color, and assessing patient perception of residents’ training in skin of color.
Conclusion
In the last decade it has become increasingly apparent that the US population is diversifying and that patients with skin of color will comprise a substantial proportion of the future population,8,11 which emphasizes the need for dermatology residency programs to ensure that residents receive adequate training and exposure to patients with skin of color as well as the distinct skin diseases seen more commonly in these populations.12
Dermatologic treatment of patients with skin of color offers specific challenges. Studies have reported structural, morphologic, and physiologic distinctions among different ethnic groups,1 which may account for distinct clinical presentations of skin disease seen in patients with skin of color. Patients with skin of color are at increased risk for specific dermatologic conditions, such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, keloid development, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia.2,3 Furthermore, although skin cancer is less prevalent in patients with skin of color, it often presents at a more advanced stage and with a worse prognosis compared to white patients.4
Prior studies have demonstrated the need for increased exposure, education, and training in diseases pertaining to skin of color in US dermatology residency programs.6-8 The aim of this study was to assess if dermatologists in-training feel that their residency curriculum sufficiently educates them on the needs of patients with skin of color.
Methods
A 10-question anonymous survey was emailed to 109 dermatology residency programs to evaluate the attitudes of dermatology residents about their exposure to patients with skin of color and their skin-of-color curriculum. The study included individuals 18 years or older who were current residents in a dermatology program accredited by the Accreditation Council for Graduate Medical Education.
Results
When asked the number of hours of lecture per month necessary to gain competence in conditions affecting patients with skin of color, 67% agreed that 1 to 5 hours was sufficient (Table 3). There were significant differences in the responses between the NE and SE (P=.024) and the SE and MW (P=.007). Of all respondents, 53% reported 1 to 5 months of clinical training are needed to gain competence in treating conditions affecting patients with skin of color, with significant differences in responses between the NE and MW (P<.001), the NE and SW (P=.019), and the SE and MW (P=.015)(Table 4).
Comment
Responses varied by practicing region
Although interactive lectures and textbook readings are important for obtaining a foundational understanding of dermatologic disease, they cannot substitute for clinical interactions and hands-on experience treating patients with skin of color.9 Not only do clinical interactions encourage independent reading and the study of encountered diagnoses, but intercommunication with patients may have a more profound and lasting impact on residents’ education.
Different regions of the United States have varying distributions of patients with skin of color, and dermatology residency program training reflects these disparities.6 In areas of less diversity, dermatology residents examine, diagnose, and treat substantially fewer patients with skin of color. The desire for more diverse training supports the prior findings of Nijhawan et al6 and is reflected in the responses we received in our study, whereby residents from the less ethnically diversified regions of the MW and NW were more likely to agree that clinics and rotations were necessary for training in preparation to sufficiently address the needs of patients with skin of color.
One way to compensate for the lack of ethnic diversity encountered in areas such as the MW and NW would be to develop educational programs featuring experts on skin of color.6 These specialists would not only train dermatology residents in areas of the country currently lacking ethnic diversity but also expand the expertise for treating patients with skin of color. Additionally, dedicated multiethnic skin clinics and externships devoted solely to treating patients with skin of color could be encouraged for residency training.6 Finally, community outreach through volunteer clinics may provide residents exposure to patients with skin of color seeking dermatologic care.10
This study was limited by the small number of respondents, but we were able to extract important trends and data from the collected responses. It is possible that respondents felt strongly about topics involving patients with skin of color, and the results were skewed to reflect individual bias. Additional limitations included not asking respondents for program names and population density (eg, urban, suburban, rural). Future studies should be directed toward analyzing how the diversity of the local population influences training in patients with skin of color, comparing program directors’ perceptions with residents’ perceptions on training in skin of color, and assessing patient perception of residents’ training in skin of color.
Conclusion
In the last decade it has become increasingly apparent that the US population is diversifying and that patients with skin of color will comprise a substantial proportion of the future population,8,11 which emphasizes the need for dermatology residency programs to ensure that residents receive adequate training and exposure to patients with skin of color as well as the distinct skin diseases seen more commonly in these populations.12
- Luther N, Darvin ME, Sterry W, et al. Ethnic differences in skin physiology, hair follicle morphology and follicular penetration. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2012;25:182-191.
- Shokeen D. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients with skin of color. Cutis. 2016;97:E9-E11.
- Lawson CN, Hollinger J, Sethi S, et al. Updates in the understanding and treatments of skin & hair disorders in women of color. Int J Women’s Dermatol. 2017;3:S21-S37.
- Hu S, Parmet Y, Allen G, et al. Disparity in melanoma: a trend analysis of melanoma incidence and stage at diagnosis among whites, Hispanics, and blacks in Florida. Arch Dermatol. 2009;145:1369-1374.
- Colby SL, Ortman JM; US Census Bureau. Projections of the Size and Composition of the U.S. Population: 2014 to 2060. Washington, DC: US Census Bureau; 2014. Current Population Reports, P25-1143. https://census.gov/content/dam/Census/library/publications/2015/demo/p25-1143.pdf. Published March 2015. Accessed May 13, 2020.
- Nijhawan RI, Jacob SE, Woolery-Lloyd H. Skin of color education in dermatology residency programs: does residency training reflect the changing demographics of the United States? J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008;59:615-618.
- Pritchett EN, Pandya AG, Ferguson NN, et al. Diversity in dermatology: roadmap for improvement. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2018;79:337-341.
- Pandya AG, Alexis AF, Berger TG, et al. Increasing racial and ethnic diversity in dermatology: a call to action. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016;74:584-587.
- Ernst H, Colthorpe K. The efficacy of interactive lecturing for students with diverse science backgrounds. Adv Physiol Educ. 2007;31:41-44.
- Allday E. UCSF opens ‘skin of color’ dermatology clinic to address disparity in care. San Francisco Chronicle. March 20, 2019. https://www.sfchronicle.com/health/article/UCSF-opens-skin-of-color-dermatology-clinic-13704387.php. Accessed May 13, 2020.
- Van Voorhees AS, Enos CW. Diversity in dermatology residency programs. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2017;18:S46-S49.
- Enos CW, Harvey VM. From bench to bedside: the Hampton University Skin of Color Research Institute 2015 Skin of Color Symposium. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2017;18:S29-S30.
- Luther N, Darvin ME, Sterry W, et al. Ethnic differences in skin physiology, hair follicle morphology and follicular penetration. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2012;25:182-191.
- Shokeen D. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients with skin of color. Cutis. 2016;97:E9-E11.
- Lawson CN, Hollinger J, Sethi S, et al. Updates in the understanding and treatments of skin & hair disorders in women of color. Int J Women’s Dermatol. 2017;3:S21-S37.
- Hu S, Parmet Y, Allen G, et al. Disparity in melanoma: a trend analysis of melanoma incidence and stage at diagnosis among whites, Hispanics, and blacks in Florida. Arch Dermatol. 2009;145:1369-1374.
- Colby SL, Ortman JM; US Census Bureau. Projections of the Size and Composition of the U.S. Population: 2014 to 2060. Washington, DC: US Census Bureau; 2014. Current Population Reports, P25-1143. https://census.gov/content/dam/Census/library/publications/2015/demo/p25-1143.pdf. Published March 2015. Accessed May 13, 2020.
- Nijhawan RI, Jacob SE, Woolery-Lloyd H. Skin of color education in dermatology residency programs: does residency training reflect the changing demographics of the United States? J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008;59:615-618.
- Pritchett EN, Pandya AG, Ferguson NN, et al. Diversity in dermatology: roadmap for improvement. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2018;79:337-341.
- Pandya AG, Alexis AF, Berger TG, et al. Increasing racial and ethnic diversity in dermatology: a call to action. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016;74:584-587.
- Ernst H, Colthorpe K. The efficacy of interactive lecturing for students with diverse science backgrounds. Adv Physiol Educ. 2007;31:41-44.
- Allday E. UCSF opens ‘skin of color’ dermatology clinic to address disparity in care. San Francisco Chronicle. March 20, 2019. https://www.sfchronicle.com/health/article/UCSF-opens-skin-of-color-dermatology-clinic-13704387.php. Accessed May 13, 2020.
- Van Voorhees AS, Enos CW. Diversity in dermatology residency programs. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2017;18:S46-S49.
- Enos CW, Harvey VM. From bench to bedside: the Hampton University Skin of Color Research Institute 2015 Skin of Color Symposium. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2017;18:S29-S30.
Practice Points
- To treat the ever-changing demographics of patients in the United States, dermatologists must receive adequate exposure and education regarding dermatologic conditions in patients from various ethnic backgrounds.
- Dermatology residents from less diverse regions are more likely to agree that dedicated clinics and rotations are important to gain competence compared to those from more diverse regions.
- In areas with less diversity, dedicated multiethnic skin clinics and faculty may be more important for assuring an adequate residency experience.
Hair Care Products Used by Women of African Descent: Review of Ingredients
In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.1 Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.2 In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.
When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.1 In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.3 However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.4
Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.5
Properties of Hair Care Products
Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.
Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.6 Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.4
Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.
Sulfates
Sulfates are anion detergents in shampoo that remove sebum from the scalp and hair. The number of sulfates in a shampoo positively correlates to cleansing strength.1 However, sulfates can cause excessive sebum removal and lead to hair that is hard, rough, dull, and prone to tangle and breakage.6 Sulfates also dissolve oil on the hair, causing additional dryness and breakage.7
There are a variety of sulfate compounds with different sebum-removal capabilities. Lauryl sulfates are commonly used in shampoos for oily hair. Tightly coiled hair that has been overly cleansed with these ingredients can become exceedingly dry and unmanageable, which explains why products with lauryl sulfates are avoided. Table 1 includes only 1 product containing lauryl sulfate (Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo). Patients using a lauryl sulfate–containing shampoo can select a product that also contains a conditioning agent in the formulation.6 Alternatively, sulfate-free shampoos that contain surfactants with less detergency can be used.8 There are no published studies of the cleansing ability of sulfate-free shampoos or their effects on hair shaft fragility.9
At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.10 Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,10 is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).
An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.11 Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.
Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins7 that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.6 For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.6 Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).
The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.12 However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.12
Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.
Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.7 Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).
Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.13 Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.6 Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.14
Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.15 Pazyar et al16 reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.17 Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.
Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.18 Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.17 Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.
Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.19 Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.20
Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.21 Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.
Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.24 In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.25 Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.26 Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).
Our Recommendations
Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.
Conclusion
Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.
- Taylor S, Kelly AP, Lim HW, et al. Taylor and Kelly’s Dermatology for Skin of Color. 2nd ed. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill; 2009.
- Gathers RC, Mahan MG. African American women, hair care, and health barriers. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014;7:26-29.
- Quinn CR, Quinn TM, Kelly AP. Hair care practices in African American women. Cutis. 2003;72:280-282, 285-289.
- Griffin M, Lenzy Y. Contemporary African-American hair care practices. Pract Dermatol. http://practicaldermatology.com/2015/05/contemporary-african-american-hair-care-practices/. May 2015. Accessed March 19, 2020.
- Helm JS, Nishioka M, Brody JG, et al. Measurement of endocrine disrupting and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by black women. Environ Res. 2018;165:448-458.
- Crawford K, Hernandez C. A review of hair care products for black individuals. Cutis. 2014;93:289-293.
- Bosley RE, Daveluy S. A primer to natural hair care practices in black patients. Cutis. 2015;95:78-80, 106.
- Cline A, Uwakwe L, McMichael A. No sulfates, no parabens, and the “no-poo” method: a new patient perspective on common shampoo ingredients. Cutis. 2018;101:22-26.
- Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair cosmetics: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7:2-15.
- Draelos ZD. Essentials of hair care often neglected: hair cleansing.Int J Trichology. 2010;2:24-29.
- Becker L, Bergfeld W, Belsito D, et al. Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2012;31(6 suppl):296S-341S.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Database. Edetate sodium, CID=6144. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/EDTA_
tetrasodium#section=FDA-Requirements. Accessed March 19, 2020. - Lanigan RS, Yamarik TA. Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. Int J Toxicol. 2002;21(suppl 2):95-142.
- Vasireddy L, Bingle LEH, Davies MS. Antimicrobial activity of essential oils against multidrug-resistant clinical isolates of the Burkholderia cepacia complex. PLoS One. 2018;13:e0201835.
- Mondello F, De Bernardis F, Girolamo A, et al. In vivo activity of terpinen-4-ol, the main bioactive component of Melaleuca alternifolia Cheel (tea tree) oil against azole-susceptible and -resistant human pathogenic Candida species. BMC Infect Dis. 2006;6:158.
- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Bagherani N, et al. A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. Int J Dermatol. 2013;52:784-790.
- Selvaag E, Eriksen B, Thune P. Contact allergy due to tea tree oil and cross-sensitization to colophony. Contact Dermatitis. 1994;31:124-125.
- Vieira C, Fetzer S, Sauer SK, et al. Pro- and anti-inflammatory actions of ricinoleic acid: similarities and differences with capsaicin. Naunyn Schmiedebergs Arch Pharmacol. 2001;364:87-95.
- International Agency for Research on Cancer, IARC Working Group on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans. IARC Monographs on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans: Polynuclear Aromatic Hydrocarbons, Part 2, Carbon Blacks, Mineral Oils (Lubricant Base Oils and Derived Products) and Sorne Nitroarenes. Vol 33. Lyon, France: International Agency for Research on Cancer; April 1984. https://monographs.iarc.fr/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/mono33.pdf. Accessed March 19, 2020.
- Vieira C, Evangelista S, Cirillo R, et al. Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation. Mediators Inflamm. 2000;9:223-228.
- Concin N, Hofstetter G, Plattner B, et al. Evidence for cosmetics as a source of mineral oil contamination in women. J Womens Health (Larchmt). 2011;20:1713-1719.
- Biedermann M, Barp L, Kornauth C, et al. Mineral oil in human tissues, part II: characterization of the accumulated hydrocarbons by comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography. Sci Total Environ. 2015;506-507:644-655.
- Ruetsch SB, Kamath YK, Rele AS, et al. Secondary ion mass spectrometric investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair fibers: relevance to hair damage. J Cosmet Sci. 2001;52:169-184.
- Darbre PD, Aljarrah A, Miller WR, et al. Concentrations of parabens in human breast tumours. J Appl Toxicol. 2004;24:5-13.
- Routledge EJ, Parker J, Odum J, et al. Some alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservatives (parabens) are estrogenic. Toxicol Appl Pharmacol. 1998;153:12-19.
- Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Parabens factsheet. https://www.cdc.gov/biomonitoring/Parabens_FactSheet.html. Updated April 7, 2017. Accessed March 19, 2020.
In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.1 Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.2 In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.
When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.1 In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.3 However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.4
Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.5
Properties of Hair Care Products
Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.
Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.6 Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.4
Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.
Sulfates
Sulfates are anion detergents in shampoo that remove sebum from the scalp and hair. The number of sulfates in a shampoo positively correlates to cleansing strength.1 However, sulfates can cause excessive sebum removal and lead to hair that is hard, rough, dull, and prone to tangle and breakage.6 Sulfates also dissolve oil on the hair, causing additional dryness and breakage.7
There are a variety of sulfate compounds with different sebum-removal capabilities. Lauryl sulfates are commonly used in shampoos for oily hair. Tightly coiled hair that has been overly cleansed with these ingredients can become exceedingly dry and unmanageable, which explains why products with lauryl sulfates are avoided. Table 1 includes only 1 product containing lauryl sulfate (Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo). Patients using a lauryl sulfate–containing shampoo can select a product that also contains a conditioning agent in the formulation.6 Alternatively, sulfate-free shampoos that contain surfactants with less detergency can be used.8 There are no published studies of the cleansing ability of sulfate-free shampoos or their effects on hair shaft fragility.9
At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.10 Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,10 is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).
An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.11 Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.
Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins7 that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.6 For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.6 Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).
The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.12 However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.12
Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.
Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.7 Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).
Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.13 Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.6 Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.14
Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.15 Pazyar et al16 reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.17 Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.
Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.18 Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.17 Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.
Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.19 Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.20
Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.21 Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.
Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.24 In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.25 Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.26 Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).
Our Recommendations
Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.
Conclusion
Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.
In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.1 Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.2 In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.
When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.1 In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.3 However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.4
Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.5
Properties of Hair Care Products
Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.
Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.6 Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.4
Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.
Sulfates
Sulfates are anion detergents in shampoo that remove sebum from the scalp and hair. The number of sulfates in a shampoo positively correlates to cleansing strength.1 However, sulfates can cause excessive sebum removal and lead to hair that is hard, rough, dull, and prone to tangle and breakage.6 Sulfates also dissolve oil on the hair, causing additional dryness and breakage.7
There are a variety of sulfate compounds with different sebum-removal capabilities. Lauryl sulfates are commonly used in shampoos for oily hair. Tightly coiled hair that has been overly cleansed with these ingredients can become exceedingly dry and unmanageable, which explains why products with lauryl sulfates are avoided. Table 1 includes only 1 product containing lauryl sulfate (Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo). Patients using a lauryl sulfate–containing shampoo can select a product that also contains a conditioning agent in the formulation.6 Alternatively, sulfate-free shampoos that contain surfactants with less detergency can be used.8 There are no published studies of the cleansing ability of sulfate-free shampoos or their effects on hair shaft fragility.9
At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.10 Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,10 is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).
An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.11 Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.
Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins7 that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.6 For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.6 Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).
The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.12 However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.12
Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.
Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.7 Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).
Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.13 Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.6 Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.14
Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.15 Pazyar et al16 reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.17 Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.
Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.18 Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.17 Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.
Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.19 Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.20
Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.21 Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.
Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.24 In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.25 Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.26 Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).
Our Recommendations
Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.
Conclusion
Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.
- Taylor S, Kelly AP, Lim HW, et al. Taylor and Kelly’s Dermatology for Skin of Color. 2nd ed. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill; 2009.
- Gathers RC, Mahan MG. African American women, hair care, and health barriers. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014;7:26-29.
- Quinn CR, Quinn TM, Kelly AP. Hair care practices in African American women. Cutis. 2003;72:280-282, 285-289.
- Griffin M, Lenzy Y. Contemporary African-American hair care practices. Pract Dermatol. http://practicaldermatology.com/2015/05/contemporary-african-american-hair-care-practices/. May 2015. Accessed March 19, 2020.
- Helm JS, Nishioka M, Brody JG, et al. Measurement of endocrine disrupting and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by black women. Environ Res. 2018;165:448-458.
- Crawford K, Hernandez C. A review of hair care products for black individuals. Cutis. 2014;93:289-293.
- Bosley RE, Daveluy S. A primer to natural hair care practices in black patients. Cutis. 2015;95:78-80, 106.
- Cline A, Uwakwe L, McMichael A. No sulfates, no parabens, and the “no-poo” method: a new patient perspective on common shampoo ingredients. Cutis. 2018;101:22-26.
- Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair cosmetics: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7:2-15.
- Draelos ZD. Essentials of hair care often neglected: hair cleansing.Int J Trichology. 2010;2:24-29.
- Becker L, Bergfeld W, Belsito D, et al. Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2012;31(6 suppl):296S-341S.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Database. Edetate sodium, CID=6144. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/EDTA_
tetrasodium#section=FDA-Requirements. Accessed March 19, 2020. - Lanigan RS, Yamarik TA. Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. Int J Toxicol. 2002;21(suppl 2):95-142.
- Vasireddy L, Bingle LEH, Davies MS. Antimicrobial activity of essential oils against multidrug-resistant clinical isolates of the Burkholderia cepacia complex. PLoS One. 2018;13:e0201835.
- Mondello F, De Bernardis F, Girolamo A, et al. In vivo activity of terpinen-4-ol, the main bioactive component of Melaleuca alternifolia Cheel (tea tree) oil against azole-susceptible and -resistant human pathogenic Candida species. BMC Infect Dis. 2006;6:158.
- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Bagherani N, et al. A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. Int J Dermatol. 2013;52:784-790.
- Selvaag E, Eriksen B, Thune P. Contact allergy due to tea tree oil and cross-sensitization to colophony. Contact Dermatitis. 1994;31:124-125.
- Vieira C, Fetzer S, Sauer SK, et al. Pro- and anti-inflammatory actions of ricinoleic acid: similarities and differences with capsaicin. Naunyn Schmiedebergs Arch Pharmacol. 2001;364:87-95.
- International Agency for Research on Cancer, IARC Working Group on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans. IARC Monographs on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans: Polynuclear Aromatic Hydrocarbons, Part 2, Carbon Blacks, Mineral Oils (Lubricant Base Oils and Derived Products) and Sorne Nitroarenes. Vol 33. Lyon, France: International Agency for Research on Cancer; April 1984. https://monographs.iarc.fr/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/mono33.pdf. Accessed March 19, 2020.
- Vieira C, Evangelista S, Cirillo R, et al. Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation. Mediators Inflamm. 2000;9:223-228.
- Concin N, Hofstetter G, Plattner B, et al. Evidence for cosmetics as a source of mineral oil contamination in women. J Womens Health (Larchmt). 2011;20:1713-1719.
- Biedermann M, Barp L, Kornauth C, et al. Mineral oil in human tissues, part II: characterization of the accumulated hydrocarbons by comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography. Sci Total Environ. 2015;506-507:644-655.
- Ruetsch SB, Kamath YK, Rele AS, et al. Secondary ion mass spectrometric investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair fibers: relevance to hair damage. J Cosmet Sci. 2001;52:169-184.
- Darbre PD, Aljarrah A, Miller WR, et al. Concentrations of parabens in human breast tumours. J Appl Toxicol. 2004;24:5-13.
- Routledge EJ, Parker J, Odum J, et al. Some alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservatives (parabens) are estrogenic. Toxicol Appl Pharmacol. 1998;153:12-19.
- Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Parabens factsheet. https://www.cdc.gov/biomonitoring/Parabens_FactSheet.html. Updated April 7, 2017. Accessed March 19, 2020.
- Taylor S, Kelly AP, Lim HW, et al. Taylor and Kelly’s Dermatology for Skin of Color. 2nd ed. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill; 2009.
- Gathers RC, Mahan MG. African American women, hair care, and health barriers. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014;7:26-29.
- Quinn CR, Quinn TM, Kelly AP. Hair care practices in African American women. Cutis. 2003;72:280-282, 285-289.
- Griffin M, Lenzy Y. Contemporary African-American hair care practices. Pract Dermatol. http://practicaldermatology.com/2015/05/contemporary-african-american-hair-care-practices/. May 2015. Accessed March 19, 2020.
- Helm JS, Nishioka M, Brody JG, et al. Measurement of endocrine disrupting and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by black women. Environ Res. 2018;165:448-458.
- Crawford K, Hernandez C. A review of hair care products for black individuals. Cutis. 2014;93:289-293.
- Bosley RE, Daveluy S. A primer to natural hair care practices in black patients. Cutis. 2015;95:78-80, 106.
- Cline A, Uwakwe L, McMichael A. No sulfates, no parabens, and the “no-poo” method: a new patient perspective on common shampoo ingredients. Cutis. 2018;101:22-26.
- Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair cosmetics: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7:2-15.
- Draelos ZD. Essentials of hair care often neglected: hair cleansing.Int J Trichology. 2010;2:24-29.
- Becker L, Bergfeld W, Belsito D, et al. Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2012;31(6 suppl):296S-341S.
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Database. Edetate sodium, CID=6144. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/EDTA_
tetrasodium#section=FDA-Requirements. Accessed March 19, 2020. - Lanigan RS, Yamarik TA. Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. Int J Toxicol. 2002;21(suppl 2):95-142.
- Vasireddy L, Bingle LEH, Davies MS. Antimicrobial activity of essential oils against multidrug-resistant clinical isolates of the Burkholderia cepacia complex. PLoS One. 2018;13:e0201835.
- Mondello F, De Bernardis F, Girolamo A, et al. In vivo activity of terpinen-4-ol, the main bioactive component of Melaleuca alternifolia Cheel (tea tree) oil against azole-susceptible and -resistant human pathogenic Candida species. BMC Infect Dis. 2006;6:158.
- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Bagherani N, et al. A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. Int J Dermatol. 2013;52:784-790.
- Selvaag E, Eriksen B, Thune P. Contact allergy due to tea tree oil and cross-sensitization to colophony. Contact Dermatitis. 1994;31:124-125.
- Vieira C, Fetzer S, Sauer SK, et al. Pro- and anti-inflammatory actions of ricinoleic acid: similarities and differences with capsaicin. Naunyn Schmiedebergs Arch Pharmacol. 2001;364:87-95.
- International Agency for Research on Cancer, IARC Working Group on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans. IARC Monographs on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans: Polynuclear Aromatic Hydrocarbons, Part 2, Carbon Blacks, Mineral Oils (Lubricant Base Oils and Derived Products) and Sorne Nitroarenes. Vol 33. Lyon, France: International Agency for Research on Cancer; April 1984. https://monographs.iarc.fr/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/mono33.pdf. Accessed March 19, 2020.
- Vieira C, Evangelista S, Cirillo R, et al. Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation. Mediators Inflamm. 2000;9:223-228.
- Concin N, Hofstetter G, Plattner B, et al. Evidence for cosmetics as a source of mineral oil contamination in women. J Womens Health (Larchmt). 2011;20:1713-1719.
- Biedermann M, Barp L, Kornauth C, et al. Mineral oil in human tissues, part II: characterization of the accumulated hydrocarbons by comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography. Sci Total Environ. 2015;506-507:644-655.
- Ruetsch SB, Kamath YK, Rele AS, et al. Secondary ion mass spectrometric investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair fibers: relevance to hair damage. J Cosmet Sci. 2001;52:169-184.
- Darbre PD, Aljarrah A, Miller WR, et al. Concentrations of parabens in human breast tumours. J Appl Toxicol. 2004;24:5-13.
- Routledge EJ, Parker J, Odum J, et al. Some alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservatives (parabens) are estrogenic. Toxicol Appl Pharmacol. 1998;153:12-19.
- Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Parabens factsheet. https://www.cdc.gov/biomonitoring/Parabens_FactSheet.html. Updated April 7, 2017. Accessed March 19, 2020.
Practice Points
- Dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent patient interactions and treatment.
- Common ingredients in popular hair care products used by African Americans include sulfates, cationic surfactants and polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.
Racial Limitations of Fitzpatrick Skin Type
Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.1 Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.2 The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.1 As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.3
How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.5 For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.1 Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.6 Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.7
We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.
Methods
The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.
Results
A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.
Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.
Comment
The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.8 As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.
The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.
We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.15 Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.15 Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”20
Sharma et al15 utilized reflectance spectrophotometry as an objective measure of melanin and skin erythema. The melanin index consistently showed a positive correlation with FSTs as opposed to the erythema index, which correlated poorly.15 Although reflectance spectrometry accurately identifies skin color in patients with nonwhite skin,21,22 it is an impractical and cost-prohibitive tool for daily practice. A more practical tool for the clinical setting would be a visual color scale with skin hues spanning FST types I to VI, including bands of increasingly darker gradations that would be particularly useful in assessing skin of color. Once such tool is the Taylor Hyperpigmentation Scale.17 Although currently not widely available, this tool could be further refined with additional skin hues.
Conclusion
Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.23 Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.
Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.
- Goldsmith LA, Katz SI, Gilchrest BA, et al, eds. Fitzpatrick’s Dermatology in General Medicine. 8th ed. New York, NY: The McGraw-Hill Companies; 2012.
- Sachdeva S. Fitzpatrick skin typing: applications in dermatology. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2009;75:93-96.
- Everett JS, Budescu M, Sommers MS. Making sense of skin color in clinical care. Clin Nurs Res. 2012;21:495-516.
- Eilers S, Bach DQ, Gaber R, et al. Accuracy of self-report in assessingFitzpatrick skin phototypes I through VI. JAMA Dermatol. 2013;149:1289-1294.
- He SY, McCulloch CE, Boscardin WJ, et al. Self-reported pigmentary phenotypes and race are significant but incomplete predictors of Fitzpatrick skin phototype in an ethnically diverse population. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014;71:731-737.
- Fitzpatrick TB. The validity and practicality of sun-reactive skin types I through VI. Arch Dermatol. 1988;124:869-871.
- Leenutaphong V. Relationship between skin color and cutaneous response to ultraviolet radiation in Thai. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 1996;11:198-203.
- Colby SL, Ortman JM. Projections of the Size and Composition of the US Population: 2014 to 2060. Washington, DC: US Census Bureau; 2015.
- Baumann L. Understanding and treating various skin types: the Baumann Skin Type Indicator. Dermatol Clin. 2008;26:359-373.
- Fanous N. A new patient classification for laser resurfacing and peels: predicting responses, risks, and results. Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2002;26:99-104.
- Glogau RG. Chemical peeling and aging skin. J Geriatric Dermatol. 1994;2:30-35.
- Goldman M. Universal classification of skin type. In: Shiffman M, Mirrafati S, Lam S, et al, eds. Simplified Facial Rejuvenation. Berlin, Heidelberg, Germany: Springer; 2008:47-50.
- Kawada A. UVB-induced erythema, delayed tanning, and UVA-induced immediate tanning in Japanese skin. Photodermatol. 1986;3:327-333.
- Lancer HA. Lancer Ethnicity Scale (LES). Lasers Surg Med. 1998;22:9.
- Sharma VK, Gupta V, Jangid BL, et al. Modification of the Fitzpatrick system of skin phototype classification for the Indian population, and its correlation with narrowband diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2018;43:274-280.
- Roberts WE. The Roberts Skin Type Classification System. J Drugs Dermatol. 2008;7:452-456.
- Taylor SC, Arsonnaud S, Czernielewski J. The Taylor hyperpigmentation scale: a new visual assessment tool for the evaluation of skin color and pigmentation. Cutis. 2005;76:270-274.
- Treesirichod A, Chansakulporn S, Wattanapan P. Correlation between skin color evaluation by skin color scale chart and narrowband reflectance spectrophotometer. Indian J Dermatol. 2014;59:339-342.
- Willis I, Earles RM. A new classification system relevant to people of African descent. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005;18:209-216.
- Reeder AI, Hammond VA, Gray AR. Questionnaire items to assess skin color and erythemal sensitivity: reliability, validity, and “the dark shift.” Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2010;19:1167-1173.
- Dwyer T, Muller HK, Blizzard L, et al. The use of spectrophotometry to estimate melanin density in Caucasians. Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 1998;7:203-206.
- Pershing LK, Tirumala VP, Nelson JL, et al. Reflectance spectrophotometer: the dermatologists’ sphygmomanometer for skin phototyping? J Invest Dermatol. 2008;128:1633-1640.
- Trakatelli M, Bylaite-Bucinskiene M, Correia O, et al. Clinical assessment of skin phototypes: watch your words! Eur J Dermatol. 2017;27:615-619.
Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.1 Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.2 The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.1 As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.3
How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.5 For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.1 Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.6 Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.7
We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.
Methods
The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.
Results
A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.
Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.
Comment
The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.8 As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.
The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.
We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.15 Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.15 Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”20
Sharma et al15 utilized reflectance spectrophotometry as an objective measure of melanin and skin erythema. The melanin index consistently showed a positive correlation with FSTs as opposed to the erythema index, which correlated poorly.15 Although reflectance spectrometry accurately identifies skin color in patients with nonwhite skin,21,22 it is an impractical and cost-prohibitive tool for daily practice. A more practical tool for the clinical setting would be a visual color scale with skin hues spanning FST types I to VI, including bands of increasingly darker gradations that would be particularly useful in assessing skin of color. Once such tool is the Taylor Hyperpigmentation Scale.17 Although currently not widely available, this tool could be further refined with additional skin hues.
Conclusion
Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.23 Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.
Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.
Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.1 Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.2 The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.1 As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.3
How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.5 For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.1 Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.6 Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.7
We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.
Methods
The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.
Results
A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.
Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.
Comment
The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.8 As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.
The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.
We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.15 Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.15 Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”20
Sharma et al15 utilized reflectance spectrophotometry as an objective measure of melanin and skin erythema. The melanin index consistently showed a positive correlation with FSTs as opposed to the erythema index, which correlated poorly.15 Although reflectance spectrometry accurately identifies skin color in patients with nonwhite skin,21,22 it is an impractical and cost-prohibitive tool for daily practice. A more practical tool for the clinical setting would be a visual color scale with skin hues spanning FST types I to VI, including bands of increasingly darker gradations that would be particularly useful in assessing skin of color. Once such tool is the Taylor Hyperpigmentation Scale.17 Although currently not widely available, this tool could be further refined with additional skin hues.
Conclusion
Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.23 Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.
Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.
- Goldsmith LA, Katz SI, Gilchrest BA, et al, eds. Fitzpatrick’s Dermatology in General Medicine. 8th ed. New York, NY: The McGraw-Hill Companies; 2012.
- Sachdeva S. Fitzpatrick skin typing: applications in dermatology. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2009;75:93-96.
- Everett JS, Budescu M, Sommers MS. Making sense of skin color in clinical care. Clin Nurs Res. 2012;21:495-516.
- Eilers S, Bach DQ, Gaber R, et al. Accuracy of self-report in assessingFitzpatrick skin phototypes I through VI. JAMA Dermatol. 2013;149:1289-1294.
- He SY, McCulloch CE, Boscardin WJ, et al. Self-reported pigmentary phenotypes and race are significant but incomplete predictors of Fitzpatrick skin phototype in an ethnically diverse population. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014;71:731-737.
- Fitzpatrick TB. The validity and practicality of sun-reactive skin types I through VI. Arch Dermatol. 1988;124:869-871.
- Leenutaphong V. Relationship between skin color and cutaneous response to ultraviolet radiation in Thai. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 1996;11:198-203.
- Colby SL, Ortman JM. Projections of the Size and Composition of the US Population: 2014 to 2060. Washington, DC: US Census Bureau; 2015.
- Baumann L. Understanding and treating various skin types: the Baumann Skin Type Indicator. Dermatol Clin. 2008;26:359-373.
- Fanous N. A new patient classification for laser resurfacing and peels: predicting responses, risks, and results. Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2002;26:99-104.
- Glogau RG. Chemical peeling and aging skin. J Geriatric Dermatol. 1994;2:30-35.
- Goldman M. Universal classification of skin type. In: Shiffman M, Mirrafati S, Lam S, et al, eds. Simplified Facial Rejuvenation. Berlin, Heidelberg, Germany: Springer; 2008:47-50.
- Kawada A. UVB-induced erythema, delayed tanning, and UVA-induced immediate tanning in Japanese skin. Photodermatol. 1986;3:327-333.
- Lancer HA. Lancer Ethnicity Scale (LES). Lasers Surg Med. 1998;22:9.
- Sharma VK, Gupta V, Jangid BL, et al. Modification of the Fitzpatrick system of skin phototype classification for the Indian population, and its correlation with narrowband diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2018;43:274-280.
- Roberts WE. The Roberts Skin Type Classification System. J Drugs Dermatol. 2008;7:452-456.
- Taylor SC, Arsonnaud S, Czernielewski J. The Taylor hyperpigmentation scale: a new visual assessment tool for the evaluation of skin color and pigmentation. Cutis. 2005;76:270-274.
- Treesirichod A, Chansakulporn S, Wattanapan P. Correlation between skin color evaluation by skin color scale chart and narrowband reflectance spectrophotometer. Indian J Dermatol. 2014;59:339-342.
- Willis I, Earles RM. A new classification system relevant to people of African descent. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005;18:209-216.
- Reeder AI, Hammond VA, Gray AR. Questionnaire items to assess skin color and erythemal sensitivity: reliability, validity, and “the dark shift.” Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2010;19:1167-1173.
- Dwyer T, Muller HK, Blizzard L, et al. The use of spectrophotometry to estimate melanin density in Caucasians. Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 1998;7:203-206.
- Pershing LK, Tirumala VP, Nelson JL, et al. Reflectance spectrophotometer: the dermatologists’ sphygmomanometer for skin phototyping? J Invest Dermatol. 2008;128:1633-1640.
- Trakatelli M, Bylaite-Bucinskiene M, Correia O, et al. Clinical assessment of skin phototypes: watch your words! Eur J Dermatol. 2017;27:615-619.
- Goldsmith LA, Katz SI, Gilchrest BA, et al, eds. Fitzpatrick’s Dermatology in General Medicine. 8th ed. New York, NY: The McGraw-Hill Companies; 2012.
- Sachdeva S. Fitzpatrick skin typing: applications in dermatology. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2009;75:93-96.
- Everett JS, Budescu M, Sommers MS. Making sense of skin color in clinical care. Clin Nurs Res. 2012;21:495-516.
- Eilers S, Bach DQ, Gaber R, et al. Accuracy of self-report in assessingFitzpatrick skin phototypes I through VI. JAMA Dermatol. 2013;149:1289-1294.
- He SY, McCulloch CE, Boscardin WJ, et al. Self-reported pigmentary phenotypes and race are significant but incomplete predictors of Fitzpatrick skin phototype in an ethnically diverse population. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014;71:731-737.
- Fitzpatrick TB. The validity and practicality of sun-reactive skin types I through VI. Arch Dermatol. 1988;124:869-871.
- Leenutaphong V. Relationship between skin color and cutaneous response to ultraviolet radiation in Thai. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 1996;11:198-203.
- Colby SL, Ortman JM. Projections of the Size and Composition of the US Population: 2014 to 2060. Washington, DC: US Census Bureau; 2015.
- Baumann L. Understanding and treating various skin types: the Baumann Skin Type Indicator. Dermatol Clin. 2008;26:359-373.
- Fanous N. A new patient classification for laser resurfacing and peels: predicting responses, risks, and results. Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2002;26:99-104.
- Glogau RG. Chemical peeling and aging skin. J Geriatric Dermatol. 1994;2:30-35.
- Goldman M. Universal classification of skin type. In: Shiffman M, Mirrafati S, Lam S, et al, eds. Simplified Facial Rejuvenation. Berlin, Heidelberg, Germany: Springer; 2008:47-50.
- Kawada A. UVB-induced erythema, delayed tanning, and UVA-induced immediate tanning in Japanese skin. Photodermatol. 1986;3:327-333.
- Lancer HA. Lancer Ethnicity Scale (LES). Lasers Surg Med. 1998;22:9.
- Sharma VK, Gupta V, Jangid BL, et al. Modification of the Fitzpatrick system of skin phototype classification for the Indian population, and its correlation with narrowband diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2018;43:274-280.
- Roberts WE. The Roberts Skin Type Classification System. J Drugs Dermatol. 2008;7:452-456.
- Taylor SC, Arsonnaud S, Czernielewski J. The Taylor hyperpigmentation scale: a new visual assessment tool for the evaluation of skin color and pigmentation. Cutis. 2005;76:270-274.
- Treesirichod A, Chansakulporn S, Wattanapan P. Correlation between skin color evaluation by skin color scale chart and narrowband reflectance spectrophotometer. Indian J Dermatol. 2014;59:339-342.
- Willis I, Earles RM. A new classification system relevant to people of African descent. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005;18:209-216.
- Reeder AI, Hammond VA, Gray AR. Questionnaire items to assess skin color and erythemal sensitivity: reliability, validity, and “the dark shift.” Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2010;19:1167-1173.
- Dwyer T, Muller HK, Blizzard L, et al. The use of spectrophotometry to estimate melanin density in Caucasians. Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 1998;7:203-206.
- Pershing LK, Tirumala VP, Nelson JL, et al. Reflectance spectrophotometer: the dermatologists’ sphygmomanometer for skin phototyping? J Invest Dermatol. 2008;128:1633-1640.
- Trakatelli M, Bylaite-Bucinskiene M, Correia O, et al. Clinical assessment of skin phototypes: watch your words! Eur J Dermatol. 2017;27:615-619.
Practice Points
- Medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with Fitzpatrick skin type (FST).
- Misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color.
- Although alternative skin type classification systems have been proposed, more clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed.
Establishing the Diagnosis of Rosacea in Skin of Color Patients
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. 1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. 4 Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. 5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). 1 A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. 6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.
Epidemiology
In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.9 A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.10 A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.11 A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.12 The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.8
Clinical Features
Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.13 This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.7
In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.12 In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.14
Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.3 Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.
Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features
Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.
Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.15
Both SLE and rosacea may be exacerbated by sun exposure, and patients may report burning and stinging.16-18 Performing a complete physical examination, performing a skin biopsy with hematoxylin and eosin and direct immunofluorescence, and checking serologies including antinuclear antibody (ANA) can assist in making the diagnosis. It is important to note that elevated ANA, albeit lower than what is typically seen in SLE, has been reported in rosacea patients.19 If ANA is elevated, more specific SLE antibodies should be tested (eg, double-stranded DNA). Additionally, SLE can be differentiated on histology by a considerably lower CD4:CD8 ratio, fewer CD4+CD25+ regulatory T cells, and more CD123+ plasmacytoid dendritic cells compared to rosacea.20
Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.21 Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.22 In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.
Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis18; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al23 described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,24 making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.
Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.1 In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.
Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.27 Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.28 Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin29; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.30 Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.35 Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.36 Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.
Steroid Dermatitis
Steroid dermatitis involving the face may mimic rosacea. It is caused by the application of a potent corticosteroid to the facial skin for a prolonged period of time. In a report from a teaching hospital in Baghdad, the duration of application was 0.25 to 10 years on average.37 Reported characteristics of steroid dermatitis included facial erythema, telangiectasia, papules, pustules, and warmth to the touch. Distinguishing features from rosacea may be the presence of steroid dermatitis on the entire face, whereas rosacea tends to occur on the center of the face. Diagnosis of steroid dermatitis is made based on a history of chronic topical steroid use with rebound flares upon discontinuation of steroid.
Final Thoughts
Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.
References
- Alexis AF. Rosacea in patients with skin of color: uncommon but not rare. Cutis. 2010;86:60-62.
- Kim NH, Yun SJ, Lee JB. Clinical features of Korean patients with rhinophyma. J Dermatol. 2017;44:710-712.
- Hua TC, Chung PI, Chen YJ, et al. Cardiovascular comorbidities in patients with rosacea: a nationwide case-control study from Taiwan. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2015;73:249-254.
- Wilkin J, Dahl M, Detmar M, et al. Standard classification of rosacea: report of the National Rosacea Society Expert Committee on the Classification and Staging of Rosacea. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46:584-587.
- Elewski BE, Draelos Z, Dreno B, et al. Global diversity and optimized outcome: proposed international consensus from the Rosacea International Expert Group. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011;25:188-200.
- Alexis AF, Callender VD, Baldwin HE, et al. Global epidemiology and clinical spectrum of rosacea, highlighting skin of color: review and clinical practice experience [published online September 19, 2018]. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019;80:1722-1729.e7.
- Dlova NC, Mosam A. Rosacea in black South Africans with skin phototypes V and VI. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2017;42:670-673.
- Al-Dabagh A, Davis SA, McMichael AJ, et al. Rosacea in skin of color: not a rare diagnosis [published online October 15, 2014]. Dermatol Online J. 2014;20. pii:13030/qt1mv9r0ss.
- Gether L, Overgaard LK, Egeberg A, et al. Incidence and prevalence of rosacea: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Br J Dermatol. 2018;179:282-289.
- Rueda LJ, Motta A, Pabon JG, et al. Epidemiology of rosacea in Colombia. Int J Dermatol. 2017;56:510-513.
- De Luca DA, Maianski Z, Averbukh M. A study of skin disease spectrum occurring in Angola phototype V-VI population in Luanda. Int J Dermatol. 2018;57:849-855.
- Al Balbeesi AO, Halawani MR. Unusual features of rosacea in Saudi females with dark skin. Ochsner J. 2014;14:321-327.
- Rosen T, Stone MS. Acne rosacea in blacks. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1987;17:70-73.
- Khaled A, Hammami H, Zeglaoui F, et al. Rosacea: 244 Tunisian cases. Tunis Med. 2010;88:597-601.
- Usatine RP, Smith MA, Chumley HS, et al. The Color Atlas of Family Medicine. 2nd ed. New York, NY: The McGraw-Hill Companies; 2013.
- O'Gorman SM, Murphy GM. Photoaggravated disorders. Dermatol Clin. 2014;32:385-398, ix.
- Foering K, Chang AY, Piette EW, et al. Characterization of clinical photosensitivity in cutaneous lupus erythematosus. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013;69:205-213.
- Saleem MD, Wilkin JK. Evaluating and optimizing the diagnosis of erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. Dermatol Clin. 2018;36:127-134.
- Black AA, McCauliffe DP, Sontheimer RD. Prevalence of acne rosacea in a rheumatic skin disease subspecialty clinic. Lupus. 1992;1:229-237.
- Brown TT, Choi EY, Thomas DG, et al. Comparative analysis of rosacea and cutaneous lupus erythematosus: histopathologic features, T-cell subsets, and plasmacytoid dendritic cells. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014;71:100-107.
- Taylor SC, Barbosa V, Burgess C, et al. Hair and scalp disorders in adult and pediatric patients with skin of color. Cutis. 2017;100:31-35.
- Gary G. Optimizing treatment approaches in seborrheic dermatitis. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013;6:44-49.
- Okiyama N, Kohsaka H, Ueda N, et al. Seborrheic area erythema as a common skin manifestation in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis. Dermatology. 2008;217:374-377.
- Taylor SC, Kyei A. Defining skin of color. In: Taylor SC, Kelly AP, Lim HW, et al, eds. Taylor and Kelly's Dermatology for Skin of Color. 2nd ed. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill; 2016:9-15.
- Davis SA, Narahari S, Feldman SR, et al. Top dermatologic conditions in patients of color: an analysis of nationally representative data. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012;11:466-473.
- Taylor SC, Cook-Bolden F, Rahman Z, et al. Acne vulgaris in skin of color. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46(2 suppl understanding):S98-S106.
- Wick MR. Granulomatous & histiocytic dermatitides. Semin Diagn Pathol. 2017;34:301-311.
- Ball NJ, Kho GT, Martinka M. The histologic spectrum of cutaneous sarcoidosis: a study of twenty-eight cases. J Cutan Pathol. 2004;31:160-168.
- Marchell RM, Judson MA. Chronic cutaneous lesions of sarcoidosis. Clin Dermatol. 2007;25:295-302.
- Mahajan VK, Sharma NL, Sharma RC, et al. Cutaneous sarcoidosis: clinical profile of 23 Indian patients. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2007;73:16-21.
- Goldenberg JD, Kotler HS, Shamsai R, et al. Sarcoidosis of the external nose mimicking rhinophyma. case report and review of the literature. Ann Otol Rhinol Laryngol. 1998;107:514-518.
- Gupta-Elera G, Lam C, Chung C, et al. Violaceous plaque on the nose referred for rhinophyma surgery. Int J Dermatol. 2015;54:1011-1013.
- Leonard AL. A case of sarcoidosis mimicking rhinophyma. J Drugs Dermatol. 2003;2:333-334.
- Kelati A, Mernissi FZ. Granulomatous rosacea: a case report. J Med Case Rep. 2017;11:230.
- Crawford GH, Pelle MT, James WD. Rosacea: I. etiology, pathogenesis, and subtype classification. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;51:327-341; quiz 342-324.
- Reinholz M, Ruzicka T, Steinhoff M, et al. Pathogenesis and clinical presentation of rosacea as a key for a symptom-oriented therapy. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2016;14(suppl 6):4-15.
- Hameed AF. Steroid dermatitis resembling rosacea: a clinical evaluation of 75 patients. ISRN Dermatol. 2013;2013:491376.
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. 1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. 4 Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. 5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). 1 A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. 6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.
Epidemiology
In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.9 A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.10 A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.11 A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.12 The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.8
Clinical Features
Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.13 This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.7
In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.12 In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.14
Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.3 Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.
Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features
Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.
Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.15
Both SLE and rosacea may be exacerbated by sun exposure, and patients may report burning and stinging.16-18 Performing a complete physical examination, performing a skin biopsy with hematoxylin and eosin and direct immunofluorescence, and checking serologies including antinuclear antibody (ANA) can assist in making the diagnosis. It is important to note that elevated ANA, albeit lower than what is typically seen in SLE, has been reported in rosacea patients.19 If ANA is elevated, more specific SLE antibodies should be tested (eg, double-stranded DNA). Additionally, SLE can be differentiated on histology by a considerably lower CD4:CD8 ratio, fewer CD4+CD25+ regulatory T cells, and more CD123+ plasmacytoid dendritic cells compared to rosacea.20
Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.21 Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.22 In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.
Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis18; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al23 described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,24 making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.
Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.1 In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.
Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.27 Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.28 Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin29; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.30 Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.35 Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.36 Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.
Steroid Dermatitis
Steroid dermatitis involving the face may mimic rosacea. It is caused by the application of a potent corticosteroid to the facial skin for a prolonged period of time. In a report from a teaching hospital in Baghdad, the duration of application was 0.25 to 10 years on average.37 Reported characteristics of steroid dermatitis included facial erythema, telangiectasia, papules, pustules, and warmth to the touch. Distinguishing features from rosacea may be the presence of steroid dermatitis on the entire face, whereas rosacea tends to occur on the center of the face. Diagnosis of steroid dermatitis is made based on a history of chronic topical steroid use with rebound flares upon discontinuation of steroid.
Final Thoughts
Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.
References
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. 1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. 4 Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. 5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). 1 A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. 6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.
Epidemiology
In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.9 A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.10 A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.11 A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.12 The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.8
Clinical Features
Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.13 This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.7
In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.12 In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.14
Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.3 Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.
Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features
Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.
Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.15
Both SLE and rosacea may be exacerbated by sun exposure, and patients may report burning and stinging.16-18 Performing a complete physical examination, performing a skin biopsy with hematoxylin and eosin and direct immunofluorescence, and checking serologies including antinuclear antibody (ANA) can assist in making the diagnosis. It is important to note that elevated ANA, albeit lower than what is typically seen in SLE, has been reported in rosacea patients.19 If ANA is elevated, more specific SLE antibodies should be tested (eg, double-stranded DNA). Additionally, SLE can be differentiated on histology by a considerably lower CD4:CD8 ratio, fewer CD4+CD25+ regulatory T cells, and more CD123+ plasmacytoid dendritic cells compared to rosacea.20
Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.21 Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.22 In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.
Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis18; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al23 described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,24 making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.
Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.1 In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.
Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.27 Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.28 Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin29; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.30 Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.35 Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.36 Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.
Steroid Dermatitis
Steroid dermatitis involving the face may mimic rosacea. It is caused by the application of a potent corticosteroid to the facial skin for a prolonged period of time. In a report from a teaching hospital in Baghdad, the duration of application was 0.25 to 10 years on average.37 Reported characteristics of steroid dermatitis included facial erythema, telangiectasia, papules, pustules, and warmth to the touch. Distinguishing features from rosacea may be the presence of steroid dermatitis on the entire face, whereas rosacea tends to occur on the center of the face. Diagnosis of steroid dermatitis is made based on a history of chronic topical steroid use with rebound flares upon discontinuation of steroid.
Final Thoughts
Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.
References
- Alexis AF. Rosacea in patients with skin of color: uncommon but not rare. Cutis. 2010;86:60-62.
- Kim NH, Yun SJ, Lee JB. Clinical features of Korean patients with rhinophyma. J Dermatol. 2017;44:710-712.
- Hua TC, Chung PI, Chen YJ, et al. Cardiovascular comorbidities in patients with rosacea: a nationwide case-control study from Taiwan. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2015;73:249-254.
- Wilkin J, Dahl M, Detmar M, et al. Standard classification of rosacea: report of the National Rosacea Society Expert Committee on the Classification and Staging of Rosacea. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46:584-587.
- Elewski BE, Draelos Z, Dreno B, et al. Global diversity and optimized outcome: proposed international consensus from the Rosacea International Expert Group. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011;25:188-200.
- Alexis AF, Callender VD, Baldwin HE, et al. Global epidemiology and clinical spectrum of rosacea, highlighting skin of color: review and clinical practice experience [published online September 19, 2018]. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019;80:1722-1729.e7.
- Dlova NC, Mosam A. Rosacea in black South Africans with skin phototypes V and VI. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2017;42:670-673.
- Al-Dabagh A, Davis SA, McMichael AJ, et al. Rosacea in skin of color: not a rare diagnosis [published online October 15, 2014]. Dermatol Online J. 2014;20. pii:13030/qt1mv9r0ss.
- Gether L, Overgaard LK, Egeberg A, et al. Incidence and prevalence of rosacea: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Br J Dermatol. 2018;179:282-289.
- Rueda LJ, Motta A, Pabon JG, et al. Epidemiology of rosacea in Colombia. Int J Dermatol. 2017;56:510-513.
- De Luca DA, Maianski Z, Averbukh M. A study of skin disease spectrum occurring in Angola phototype V-VI population in Luanda. Int J Dermatol. 2018;57:849-855.
- Al Balbeesi AO, Halawani MR. Unusual features of rosacea in Saudi females with dark skin. Ochsner J. 2014;14:321-327.
- Rosen T, Stone MS. Acne rosacea in blacks. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1987;17:70-73.
- Khaled A, Hammami H, Zeglaoui F, et al. Rosacea: 244 Tunisian cases. Tunis Med. 2010;88:597-601.
- Usatine RP, Smith MA, Chumley HS, et al. The Color Atlas of Family Medicine. 2nd ed. New York, NY: The McGraw-Hill Companies; 2013.
- O'Gorman SM, Murphy GM. Photoaggravated disorders. Dermatol Clin. 2014;32:385-398, ix.
- Foering K, Chang AY, Piette EW, et al. Characterization of clinical photosensitivity in cutaneous lupus erythematosus. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013;69:205-213.
- Saleem MD, Wilkin JK. Evaluating and optimizing the diagnosis of erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. Dermatol Clin. 2018;36:127-134.
- Black AA, McCauliffe DP, Sontheimer RD. Prevalence of acne rosacea in a rheumatic skin disease subspecialty clinic. Lupus. 1992;1:229-237.
- Brown TT, Choi EY, Thomas DG, et al. Comparative analysis of rosacea and cutaneous lupus erythematosus: histopathologic features, T-cell subsets, and plasmacytoid dendritic cells. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014;71:100-107.
- Taylor SC, Barbosa V, Burgess C, et al. Hair and scalp disorders in adult and pediatric patients with skin of color. Cutis. 2017;100:31-35.
- Gary G. Optimizing treatment approaches in seborrheic dermatitis. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013;6:44-49.
- Okiyama N, Kohsaka H, Ueda N, et al. Seborrheic area erythema as a common skin manifestation in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis. Dermatology. 2008;217:374-377.
- Taylor SC, Kyei A. Defining skin of color. In: Taylor SC, Kelly AP, Lim HW, et al, eds. Taylor and Kelly's Dermatology for Skin of Color. 2nd ed. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill; 2016:9-15.
- Davis SA, Narahari S, Feldman SR, et al. Top dermatologic conditions in patients of color: an analysis of nationally representative data. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012;11:466-473.
- Taylor SC, Cook-Bolden F, Rahman Z, et al. Acne vulgaris in skin of color. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46(2 suppl understanding):S98-S106.
- Wick MR. Granulomatous & histiocytic dermatitides. Semin Diagn Pathol. 2017;34:301-311.
- Ball NJ, Kho GT, Martinka M. The histologic spectrum of cutaneous sarcoidosis: a study of twenty-eight cases. J Cutan Pathol. 2004;31:160-168.
- Marchell RM, Judson MA. Chronic cutaneous lesions of sarcoidosis. Clin Dermatol. 2007;25:295-302.
- Mahajan VK, Sharma NL, Sharma RC, et al. Cutaneous sarcoidosis: clinical profile of 23 Indian patients. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2007;73:16-21.
- Goldenberg JD, Kotler HS, Shamsai R, et al. Sarcoidosis of the external nose mimicking rhinophyma. case report and review of the literature. Ann Otol Rhinol Laryngol. 1998;107:514-518.
- Gupta-Elera G, Lam C, Chung C, et al. Violaceous plaque on the nose referred for rhinophyma surgery. Int J Dermatol. 2015;54:1011-1013.
- Leonard AL. A case of sarcoidosis mimicking rhinophyma. J Drugs Dermatol. 2003;2:333-334.
- Kelati A, Mernissi FZ. Granulomatous rosacea: a case report. J Med Case Rep. 2017;11:230.
- Crawford GH, Pelle MT, James WD. Rosacea: I. etiology, pathogenesis, and subtype classification. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;51:327-341; quiz 342-324.
- Reinholz M, Ruzicka T, Steinhoff M, et al. Pathogenesis and clinical presentation of rosacea as a key for a symptom-oriented therapy. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2016;14(suppl 6):4-15.
- Hameed AF. Steroid dermatitis resembling rosacea: a clinical evaluation of 75 patients. ISRN Dermatol. 2013;2013:491376.
- Alexis AF. Rosacea in patients with skin of color: uncommon but not rare. Cutis. 2010;86:60-62.
- Kim NH, Yun SJ, Lee JB. Clinical features of Korean patients with rhinophyma. J Dermatol. 2017;44:710-712.
- Hua TC, Chung PI, Chen YJ, et al. Cardiovascular comorbidities in patients with rosacea: a nationwide case-control study from Taiwan. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2015;73:249-254.
- Wilkin J, Dahl M, Detmar M, et al. Standard classification of rosacea: report of the National Rosacea Society Expert Committee on the Classification and Staging of Rosacea. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46:584-587.
- Elewski BE, Draelos Z, Dreno B, et al. Global diversity and optimized outcome: proposed international consensus from the Rosacea International Expert Group. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011;25:188-200.
- Alexis AF, Callender VD, Baldwin HE, et al. Global epidemiology and clinical spectrum of rosacea, highlighting skin of color: review and clinical practice experience [published online September 19, 2018]. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019;80:1722-1729.e7.
- Dlova NC, Mosam A. Rosacea in black South Africans with skin phototypes V and VI. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2017;42:670-673.
- Al-Dabagh A, Davis SA, McMichael AJ, et al. Rosacea in skin of color: not a rare diagnosis [published online October 15, 2014]. Dermatol Online J. 2014;20. pii:13030/qt1mv9r0ss.
- Gether L, Overgaard LK, Egeberg A, et al. Incidence and prevalence of rosacea: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Br J Dermatol. 2018;179:282-289.
- Rueda LJ, Motta A, Pabon JG, et al. Epidemiology of rosacea in Colombia. Int J Dermatol. 2017;56:510-513.
- De Luca DA, Maianski Z, Averbukh M. A study of skin disease spectrum occurring in Angola phototype V-VI population in Luanda. Int J Dermatol. 2018;57:849-855.
- Al Balbeesi AO, Halawani MR. Unusual features of rosacea in Saudi females with dark skin. Ochsner J. 2014;14:321-327.
- Rosen T, Stone MS. Acne rosacea in blacks. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1987;17:70-73.
- Khaled A, Hammami H, Zeglaoui F, et al. Rosacea: 244 Tunisian cases. Tunis Med. 2010;88:597-601.
- Usatine RP, Smith MA, Chumley HS, et al. The Color Atlas of Family Medicine. 2nd ed. New York, NY: The McGraw-Hill Companies; 2013.
- O'Gorman SM, Murphy GM. Photoaggravated disorders. Dermatol Clin. 2014;32:385-398, ix.
- Foering K, Chang AY, Piette EW, et al. Characterization of clinical photosensitivity in cutaneous lupus erythematosus. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013;69:205-213.
- Saleem MD, Wilkin JK. Evaluating and optimizing the diagnosis of erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. Dermatol Clin. 2018;36:127-134.
- Black AA, McCauliffe DP, Sontheimer RD. Prevalence of acne rosacea in a rheumatic skin disease subspecialty clinic. Lupus. 1992;1:229-237.
- Brown TT, Choi EY, Thomas DG, et al. Comparative analysis of rosacea and cutaneous lupus erythematosus: histopathologic features, T-cell subsets, and plasmacytoid dendritic cells. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014;71:100-107.
- Taylor SC, Barbosa V, Burgess C, et al. Hair and scalp disorders in adult and pediatric patients with skin of color. Cutis. 2017;100:31-35.
- Gary G. Optimizing treatment approaches in seborrheic dermatitis. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013;6:44-49.
- Okiyama N, Kohsaka H, Ueda N, et al. Seborrheic area erythema as a common skin manifestation in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis. Dermatology. 2008;217:374-377.
- Taylor SC, Kyei A. Defining skin of color. In: Taylor SC, Kelly AP, Lim HW, et al, eds. Taylor and Kelly's Dermatology for Skin of Color. 2nd ed. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill; 2016:9-15.
- Davis SA, Narahari S, Feldman SR, et al. Top dermatologic conditions in patients of color: an analysis of nationally representative data. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012;11:466-473.
- Taylor SC, Cook-Bolden F, Rahman Z, et al. Acne vulgaris in skin of color. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46(2 suppl understanding):S98-S106.
- Wick MR. Granulomatous & histiocytic dermatitides. Semin Diagn Pathol. 2017;34:301-311.
- Ball NJ, Kho GT, Martinka M. The histologic spectrum of cutaneous sarcoidosis: a study of twenty-eight cases. J Cutan Pathol. 2004;31:160-168.
- Marchell RM, Judson MA. Chronic cutaneous lesions of sarcoidosis. Clin Dermatol. 2007;25:295-302.
- Mahajan VK, Sharma NL, Sharma RC, et al. Cutaneous sarcoidosis: clinical profile of 23 Indian patients. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2007;73:16-21.
- Goldenberg JD, Kotler HS, Shamsai R, et al. Sarcoidosis of the external nose mimicking rhinophyma. case report and review of the literature. Ann Otol Rhinol Laryngol. 1998;107:514-518.
- Gupta-Elera G, Lam C, Chung C, et al. Violaceous plaque on the nose referred for rhinophyma surgery. Int J Dermatol. 2015;54:1011-1013.
- Leonard AL. A case of sarcoidosis mimicking rhinophyma. J Drugs Dermatol. 2003;2:333-334.
- Kelati A, Mernissi FZ. Granulomatous rosacea: a case report. J Med Case Rep. 2017;11:230.
- Crawford GH, Pelle MT, James WD. Rosacea: I. etiology, pathogenesis, and subtype classification. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;51:327-341; quiz 342-324.
- Reinholz M, Ruzicka T, Steinhoff M, et al. Pathogenesis and clinical presentation of rosacea as a key for a symptom-oriented therapy. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2016;14(suppl 6):4-15.
- Hameed AF. Steroid dermatitis resembling rosacea: a clinical evaluation of 75 patients. ISRN Dermatol. 2013;2013:491376.
Practice Points
- The clinical signs of rosacea may be similar in all skin types; however, dermatologists must have a high clinical index of suspicion for rosacea in patients with skin of color (SOC).
- Dermatologists should consider a wide differential diagnosis when presented with an SOC patient with facial erythema and/or papules and pustules.
Changing Public Perception of Vitiligo
Is Vitiligo in Vogue? The Changing Face of Vitiligo
Vitiligo is a disfiguring skin condition that is thought to result from autoimmune destruction of melanocytes in the skin, leading to patchy depigmentation. The prevalence of vitiligo is estimated at 1% worldwide.1 Once seen as merely a cosmetic disorder, it is increasingly recognized for its devastating psychological effects. As skin quality, texture, and color are a few of the first things people notice about others, skin plays a major role in our daily interactions with the world. Vitiligo often affects the face and other visible areas of the body; thus, it is associated with impaired quality of life, and affected individuals often experience psychosocial impairment including anxiety, depression, stigmatization, and self-harm ideation.2 Indeed, vitiligo is a condition with not only a visible skin component but a deeper psychological component that also is important to recognize and address. However, due in large part to recent exposure to vitiligo through mainstream media, general understanding about and attitudes toward this condition are changing. As a result, vitiligo has seen a surge in outreach by those affected by the disease.
Perhaps the most well-known current face of vitiligo is Chantelle Brown-Young, a black fashion model, activist, and vitiligo spokesperson known professionally as Winnie Harlow. Diagnosed with vitiligo in childhood, she revealed she was teased and bullied and at one point contemplated suicide. “The continuous harassment and the despair that [vitiligo] brought on my life was so unbearably dehumanizing that I wanted to kill myself,” she disclosed.3 After competing on America’s Next Top Model in 2014, Winnie Harlow became a household name for redefining global standards of beauty and, in her own words, accepting the differences that make us unique and authentic.4 She went on to speak at the Dove Self-Esteem Project panel at the 2015 Women in the World London Summit and was presented with the Role Model award at the Portuguese GQ Men of the Year event that same year.5
More recently, Amy Deanna, a model with vitiligo, was featured in videos for CoverGirl’s 2018 “I Am What I Make Up” campaign in which she is shown enhancing her various skin tones rather than hiding them by applying both light and dark shades of makeup on her face. In a press release she stated, “Vitiligo awareness is something that is very important to me. Being given a platform to [raise awareness] means so much.”6
Additionally, Brock Elbank, a London-based photographer, recently launched a photograph series of men and women with vitiligo on the digital platform Instagram.7 In a recent interview he stated, “I see beauty in what many see as different. Unique individuals who stand out from the crowd are what inspire me to do what I do.”7
Lee Thomas, a television broadcaster and author of the book Turning White: A Memoir of Change is yet another example of a vitiligo patient who recently stopped hiding his condition. He admitted he has had people refuse to shake his hand due to his condition but has used the experience to educate others. He stated, “Because I’m in this position, I think this is where my next thing is supposed to be. It’s supposed to be about sharing and helping, and hopefully leaving the planet a little better for everybody else who comes along with vitiligo.”8 Thomas is dedicated to inspiring others with the condition and started the Clarity Lee Thomas Foundation to provide emotional and mental support to those with vitiligo.
Critics may say this vitiligo movement is merely another example of exploitation of what is unique or different by mainstream media and the fashion industry, similar to prior movements for plus-sized models, natural hairstyles in black women, and transgender identification. Even if partially true, the ultimate effect has been an increase in attention and representation of individuals with vitiligo in mainstream media. At the time this article was being published (September 2018), an Instagram search for #vitiligo yielded approximately 226,000 posts. For comparison with other much more common dermatologic conditions, #eczema returned approximately 958,000 results, #moles returned approximately 65,000 results, and #skincancer returned approximately 104,000 results. Additionally, the Vitiligo Research Foundation currently has more than 5000 followers on Instagram, which is as many as the Melanoma Research Foundation and almost twice as many as the Skin Cancer Foundation, supporting the idea that mainstream representation of individuals with vitiligo is contributing to raising awareness and backing of organizations aimed at making advancements in this area of dermatology.
As more individuals gain an understanding and curiosity about this disease, perhaps more research and investigation will be done to improve treatment options and outcomes for patients with vitiligo. With this movement, perhaps vitiligo patients will feel more comfortable and confident in their skin.
- Ezzedine K, Eleftheriadou V, Whitton M, et al. Vitiligo. Lancet. 2015;386:74-84.
- Tomas‐Aragones L, Marron SE. Body image and body dysmorphic concerns. Acta Derm Venereol. 2016;96:47-50.
- Rodney D. From suicide thoughts to finalist in America’s Next Top Model. The Gleaner. February 25, 2014. http://jamaica-gleaner.com/gleaner/20140225/news/news1.html. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Keyes-Bevan B. Winnie Harlow: her emotional story with vitiligo. Personal Health News website. http://www.personalhealthnews.ca/prevention-and-treatment/her-emotional-story-with-vitiligo. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Giles K, Davidson R. ‘I think I’m beautiful’: model Winnie Harlow, who suffers from rare vitiligo skin condition, gives empowering talk at Women in the World event. Daily Mail. October 9, 2015. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3266579/I-think-m-beautiful-Model-Winnie-Harlow-suffers-rare-Vitiligo-skin-condition-gives-empowering-talk-Women-World-event.html. Updated October 13, 2015. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Ruffo J. CoverGirl’s first model with vitiligo stars in new campaign: ‘w
e have to be more inclusive.’ People. February 20, 2018. https://people.com/style/covergirl-first-model-with-vitiligo-interview/. Accessed September 25, 2018. - Blair O. This vitiligo photo series is absolutely breathtaking. Cosmopolitan. March 23, 2018. https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/beauty-hair/a19494259/vitiligo-photo-series-instagram/. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Broadcaster opens up about living with vitiligo. People. February 20, 2018. http://people.com/health/lee-thomas-tv-reporter-on-his-vitiligo/. Accessed April 1, 2018.
Vitiligo is a disfiguring skin condition that is thought to result from autoimmune destruction of melanocytes in the skin, leading to patchy depigmentation. The prevalence of vitiligo is estimated at 1% worldwide.1 Once seen as merely a cosmetic disorder, it is increasingly recognized for its devastating psychological effects. As skin quality, texture, and color are a few of the first things people notice about others, skin plays a major role in our daily interactions with the world. Vitiligo often affects the face and other visible areas of the body; thus, it is associated with impaired quality of life, and affected individuals often experience psychosocial impairment including anxiety, depression, stigmatization, and self-harm ideation.2 Indeed, vitiligo is a condition with not only a visible skin component but a deeper psychological component that also is important to recognize and address. However, due in large part to recent exposure to vitiligo through mainstream media, general understanding about and attitudes toward this condition are changing. As a result, vitiligo has seen a surge in outreach by those affected by the disease.
Perhaps the most well-known current face of vitiligo is Chantelle Brown-Young, a black fashion model, activist, and vitiligo spokesperson known professionally as Winnie Harlow. Diagnosed with vitiligo in childhood, she revealed she was teased and bullied and at one point contemplated suicide. “The continuous harassment and the despair that [vitiligo] brought on my life was so unbearably dehumanizing that I wanted to kill myself,” she disclosed.3 After competing on America’s Next Top Model in 2014, Winnie Harlow became a household name for redefining global standards of beauty and, in her own words, accepting the differences that make us unique and authentic.4 She went on to speak at the Dove Self-Esteem Project panel at the 2015 Women in the World London Summit and was presented with the Role Model award at the Portuguese GQ Men of the Year event that same year.5
More recently, Amy Deanna, a model with vitiligo, was featured in videos for CoverGirl’s 2018 “I Am What I Make Up” campaign in which she is shown enhancing her various skin tones rather than hiding them by applying both light and dark shades of makeup on her face. In a press release she stated, “Vitiligo awareness is something that is very important to me. Being given a platform to [raise awareness] means so much.”6
Additionally, Brock Elbank, a London-based photographer, recently launched a photograph series of men and women with vitiligo on the digital platform Instagram.7 In a recent interview he stated, “I see beauty in what many see as different. Unique individuals who stand out from the crowd are what inspire me to do what I do.”7
Lee Thomas, a television broadcaster and author of the book Turning White: A Memoir of Change is yet another example of a vitiligo patient who recently stopped hiding his condition. He admitted he has had people refuse to shake his hand due to his condition but has used the experience to educate others. He stated, “Because I’m in this position, I think this is where my next thing is supposed to be. It’s supposed to be about sharing and helping, and hopefully leaving the planet a little better for everybody else who comes along with vitiligo.”8 Thomas is dedicated to inspiring others with the condition and started the Clarity Lee Thomas Foundation to provide emotional and mental support to those with vitiligo.
Critics may say this vitiligo movement is merely another example of exploitation of what is unique or different by mainstream media and the fashion industry, similar to prior movements for plus-sized models, natural hairstyles in black women, and transgender identification. Even if partially true, the ultimate effect has been an increase in attention and representation of individuals with vitiligo in mainstream media. At the time this article was being published (September 2018), an Instagram search for #vitiligo yielded approximately 226,000 posts. For comparison with other much more common dermatologic conditions, #eczema returned approximately 958,000 results, #moles returned approximately 65,000 results, and #skincancer returned approximately 104,000 results. Additionally, the Vitiligo Research Foundation currently has more than 5000 followers on Instagram, which is as many as the Melanoma Research Foundation and almost twice as many as the Skin Cancer Foundation, supporting the idea that mainstream representation of individuals with vitiligo is contributing to raising awareness and backing of organizations aimed at making advancements in this area of dermatology.
As more individuals gain an understanding and curiosity about this disease, perhaps more research and investigation will be done to improve treatment options and outcomes for patients with vitiligo. With this movement, perhaps vitiligo patients will feel more comfortable and confident in their skin.
Vitiligo is a disfiguring skin condition that is thought to result from autoimmune destruction of melanocytes in the skin, leading to patchy depigmentation. The prevalence of vitiligo is estimated at 1% worldwide.1 Once seen as merely a cosmetic disorder, it is increasingly recognized for its devastating psychological effects. As skin quality, texture, and color are a few of the first things people notice about others, skin plays a major role in our daily interactions with the world. Vitiligo often affects the face and other visible areas of the body; thus, it is associated with impaired quality of life, and affected individuals often experience psychosocial impairment including anxiety, depression, stigmatization, and self-harm ideation.2 Indeed, vitiligo is a condition with not only a visible skin component but a deeper psychological component that also is important to recognize and address. However, due in large part to recent exposure to vitiligo through mainstream media, general understanding about and attitudes toward this condition are changing. As a result, vitiligo has seen a surge in outreach by those affected by the disease.
Perhaps the most well-known current face of vitiligo is Chantelle Brown-Young, a black fashion model, activist, and vitiligo spokesperson known professionally as Winnie Harlow. Diagnosed with vitiligo in childhood, she revealed she was teased and bullied and at one point contemplated suicide. “The continuous harassment and the despair that [vitiligo] brought on my life was so unbearably dehumanizing that I wanted to kill myself,” she disclosed.3 After competing on America’s Next Top Model in 2014, Winnie Harlow became a household name for redefining global standards of beauty and, in her own words, accepting the differences that make us unique and authentic.4 She went on to speak at the Dove Self-Esteem Project panel at the 2015 Women in the World London Summit and was presented with the Role Model award at the Portuguese GQ Men of the Year event that same year.5
More recently, Amy Deanna, a model with vitiligo, was featured in videos for CoverGirl’s 2018 “I Am What I Make Up” campaign in which she is shown enhancing her various skin tones rather than hiding them by applying both light and dark shades of makeup on her face. In a press release she stated, “Vitiligo awareness is something that is very important to me. Being given a platform to [raise awareness] means so much.”6
Additionally, Brock Elbank, a London-based photographer, recently launched a photograph series of men and women with vitiligo on the digital platform Instagram.7 In a recent interview he stated, “I see beauty in what many see as different. Unique individuals who stand out from the crowd are what inspire me to do what I do.”7
Lee Thomas, a television broadcaster and author of the book Turning White: A Memoir of Change is yet another example of a vitiligo patient who recently stopped hiding his condition. He admitted he has had people refuse to shake his hand due to his condition but has used the experience to educate others. He stated, “Because I’m in this position, I think this is where my next thing is supposed to be. It’s supposed to be about sharing and helping, and hopefully leaving the planet a little better for everybody else who comes along with vitiligo.”8 Thomas is dedicated to inspiring others with the condition and started the Clarity Lee Thomas Foundation to provide emotional and mental support to those with vitiligo.
Critics may say this vitiligo movement is merely another example of exploitation of what is unique or different by mainstream media and the fashion industry, similar to prior movements for plus-sized models, natural hairstyles in black women, and transgender identification. Even if partially true, the ultimate effect has been an increase in attention and representation of individuals with vitiligo in mainstream media. At the time this article was being published (September 2018), an Instagram search for #vitiligo yielded approximately 226,000 posts. For comparison with other much more common dermatologic conditions, #eczema returned approximately 958,000 results, #moles returned approximately 65,000 results, and #skincancer returned approximately 104,000 results. Additionally, the Vitiligo Research Foundation currently has more than 5000 followers on Instagram, which is as many as the Melanoma Research Foundation and almost twice as many as the Skin Cancer Foundation, supporting the idea that mainstream representation of individuals with vitiligo is contributing to raising awareness and backing of organizations aimed at making advancements in this area of dermatology.
As more individuals gain an understanding and curiosity about this disease, perhaps more research and investigation will be done to improve treatment options and outcomes for patients with vitiligo. With this movement, perhaps vitiligo patients will feel more comfortable and confident in their skin.
- Ezzedine K, Eleftheriadou V, Whitton M, et al. Vitiligo. Lancet. 2015;386:74-84.
- Tomas‐Aragones L, Marron SE. Body image and body dysmorphic concerns. Acta Derm Venereol. 2016;96:47-50.
- Rodney D. From suicide thoughts to finalist in America’s Next Top Model. The Gleaner. February 25, 2014. http://jamaica-gleaner.com/gleaner/20140225/news/news1.html. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Keyes-Bevan B. Winnie Harlow: her emotional story with vitiligo. Personal Health News website. http://www.personalhealthnews.ca/prevention-and-treatment/her-emotional-story-with-vitiligo. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Giles K, Davidson R. ‘I think I’m beautiful’: model Winnie Harlow, who suffers from rare vitiligo skin condition, gives empowering talk at Women in the World event. Daily Mail. October 9, 2015. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3266579/I-think-m-beautiful-Model-Winnie-Harlow-suffers-rare-Vitiligo-skin-condition-gives-empowering-talk-Women-World-event.html. Updated October 13, 2015. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Ruffo J. CoverGirl’s first model with vitiligo stars in new campaign: ‘w
e have to be more inclusive.’ People. February 20, 2018. https://people.com/style/covergirl-first-model-with-vitiligo-interview/. Accessed September 25, 2018. - Blair O. This vitiligo photo series is absolutely breathtaking. Cosmopolitan. March 23, 2018. https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/beauty-hair/a19494259/vitiligo-photo-series-instagram/. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Broadcaster opens up about living with vitiligo. People. February 20, 2018. http://people.com/health/lee-thomas-tv-reporter-on-his-vitiligo/. Accessed April 1, 2018.
- Ezzedine K, Eleftheriadou V, Whitton M, et al. Vitiligo. Lancet. 2015;386:74-84.
- Tomas‐Aragones L, Marron SE. Body image and body dysmorphic concerns. Acta Derm Venereol. 2016;96:47-50.
- Rodney D. From suicide thoughts to finalist in America’s Next Top Model. The Gleaner. February 25, 2014. http://jamaica-gleaner.com/gleaner/20140225/news/news1.html. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Keyes-Bevan B. Winnie Harlow: her emotional story with vitiligo. Personal Health News website. http://www.personalhealthnews.ca/prevention-and-treatment/her-emotional-story-with-vitiligo. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Giles K, Davidson R. ‘I think I’m beautiful’: model Winnie Harlow, who suffers from rare vitiligo skin condition, gives empowering talk at Women in the World event. Daily Mail. October 9, 2015. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3266579/I-think-m-beautiful-Model-Winnie-Harlow-suffers-rare-Vitiligo-skin-condition-gives-empowering-talk-Women-World-event.html. Updated October 13, 2015. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Ruffo J. CoverGirl’s first model with vitiligo stars in new campaign: ‘w
e have to be more inclusive.’ People. February 20, 2018. https://people.com/style/covergirl-first-model-with-vitiligo-interview/. Accessed September 25, 2018. - Blair O. This vitiligo photo series is absolutely breathtaking. Cosmopolitan. March 23, 2018. https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/beauty-hair/a19494259/vitiligo-photo-series-instagram/. Accessed September 7, 2018.
- Broadcaster opens up about living with vitiligo. People. February 20, 2018. http://people.com/health/lee-thomas-tv-reporter-on-his-vitiligo/. Accessed April 1, 2018.