Skin of Color

In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.¹ Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.² In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.

When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.¹ In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.³ However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.⁴

Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.⁵

Properties of Hair Care Products

Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.

Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.⁶ Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.^4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.⁴

Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.¹⁰ Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,¹⁰ is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).

An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.¹¹ Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.

Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.^6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins⁷ that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.⁶ For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.⁶ Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).

The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.¹² However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.¹²

Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.^6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.^6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.

Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.⁷ Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).

Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.¹³ Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.⁶ Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.¹⁴

Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.¹⁵ Pazyar et al¹⁶ reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.¹⁷ Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.

Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.¹⁸ Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.¹⁷ Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.

Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.¹⁹ Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.²⁰

Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.²¹ Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.^22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.

Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.²⁴ In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.²⁵ Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.^5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.²⁶ Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).

Our Recommendations

Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.

Conclusion

Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.

In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.¹ Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.² In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.

When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.¹ In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.³ However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.⁴

Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.⁵

Properties of Hair Care Products

Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.

Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.⁶ Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.^4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.⁴

Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.¹⁰ Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,¹⁰ is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).

An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.¹¹ Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.

Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.^6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins⁷ that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.⁶ For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.⁶ Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).

The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.¹² However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.¹²

Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.^6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.^6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.

Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.⁷ Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).

Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.¹³ Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.⁶ Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.¹⁴

Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.¹⁵ Pazyar et al¹⁶ reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.¹⁷ Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.

Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.¹⁸ Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.¹⁷ Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.

Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.¹⁹ Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.²⁰

Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.²¹ Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.^22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.

Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.²⁴ In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.²⁵ Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.^5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.²⁶ Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).

Our Recommendations

Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.

Conclusion

Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.

In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.¹ Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.² In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.

When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.¹ In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.³ However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.⁴

Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.⁵

Properties of Hair Care Products

Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.

Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.⁶ Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.^4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.⁴

Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.¹⁰ Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,¹⁰ is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).

An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.¹¹ Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.

Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.^6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins⁷ that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.⁶ For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.⁶ Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).

The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.¹² However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.¹²

Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.^6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.^6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.

Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.⁷ Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).

Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.¹³ Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.⁶ Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.¹⁴

Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.¹⁵ Pazyar et al¹⁶ reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.¹⁷ Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.

Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.¹⁸ Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.¹⁷ Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.

Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.¹⁹ Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.²⁰

Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.²¹ Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.^22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.

Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.²⁴ In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.²⁵ Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.^5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.²⁶ Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).

Our Recommendations

Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.

Conclusion

Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.

Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.¹ Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.² The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.¹ As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.³

How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.^4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.⁵ For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.¹ Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.⁶ Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.⁷

We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.

Methods

The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.

Results

A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.

Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.

Comment

The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.⁸ As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.

The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.

We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.^1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.¹⁵ Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.¹⁵ Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”²⁰

Conclusion

Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.²³ Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.

Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.

Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.¹ Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.² The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.¹ As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.³

How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.^4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.⁵ For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.¹ Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.⁶ Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.⁷

We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.

Methods

The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.

Results

A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.

Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.

Comment

The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.⁸ As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.

The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.

We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.^1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.¹⁵ Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.¹⁵ Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”²⁰

Conclusion

Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.²³ Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.

Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.

Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.¹ Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.² The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.¹ As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.³

How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.^4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.⁵ For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.¹ Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.⁶ Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.⁷

We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.

Methods

The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.

Results

A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.

Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.

Comment

The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.⁸ As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.

The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.

We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.^1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.¹⁵ Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.¹⁵ Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”²⁰

Conclusion

Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.²³ Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.

Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.

Data are limited on the management of atopic dermatitis (AD) in adolescents, particularly in patients with skin of color, making it important to identify factors that may improve AD management in this population. Comorbid conditions (eg, acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation [PIH]), extracurricular activities (eg, athletics), and experimentation with cosmetics in adolescents, all of which can undermine treatment efficacy and medication adherence, make it particularly challenging to devise a therapeutic regimen in this patient population. We review the management of AD in black adolescents, with special consideration of concomitant treatment of acne vulgaris (AV) as well as lifestyle and social choices (Table).

Prevalence and Epidemiology

Atopic dermatitis affects 13% to 25% of children and 2% to 10% of adults.^1,2 Population‐based studies in the United States show a higher prevalence of AD in black children (19.3%) compared to European American (EA) children (16.1%).^3,4

AD in Black Adolescents

Atopic dermatitis is a common skin condition that is defined as a chronic, pruritic, inflammatory dermatosis with recurrent scaling, papules, and plaques (Figure) that usually develop during infancy and early childhood.³ Although AD severity improves for some patients in adolescence, it can be a lifelong issue affecting performance in academic and occupational settings.⁵ One US study of 8015 children found that there are racial and ethnic disparities in school absences among children (age range, 2–17 years) with AD, with children with skin of color being absent more often than white children.⁶ The same study noted that black children had a 1.5-fold higher chance of being absent 6 days over a 6-month school period compared to white children. It is postulated that AD has a greater impact on quality of life (QOL) in children with skin of color, resulting in the increased number of school absences in this population.⁶

The origin of AD currently is thought to be complex and can involve skin barrier dysfunction, environmental factors, microbiome effects, genetic predisposition, and immune dysregulation.^1,4 Atopic dermatitis is a heterogeneous disease with variations in the prevalence, genetic background, and immune activation patterns across racial groups.⁴ It is now understood to be an immune-mediated disease with multiple inflammatory pathways, with type 2–associated inflammation being a primary pathway. Patients with AD have strong helper T cell (T_H2) activation, and black patients with AD have higher IgE serum levels as well as absent T_H17/T_H1 activation.⁴

Atopic dermatitis currently is seen as a defect of the epidermal barrier, with variable clinical manifestations and expressivity.⁷ Filaggrin is an epidermal barrier protein, encoded by the FLG gene, and plays a major role in barrier function by regulating pH and promoting hydration of the skin.⁴ Loss of function of the FLG gene is the most well-studied genetic risk factor for developing AD, and this mutation is seen in patients with more severe and persistent AD in addition to patients with more skin infections and allergic sensitizations.^3,4 However, in the skin of color population, FLG mutations are 6 times less common than in the EA population, despite the fact that AD is more prevalent in patients of African descent.⁴ Therefore, the role of the FLG loss-of-function mutation and AD is not as well defined in black patients, and some researchers have found no association.³ The FLG loss-of-function mutation seems to play a smaller role in black patients than in EA patients, and other genes may be involved in skin barrier dysfunction.^3,4 In a small study of patients with mild AD compared to nonaffected patients, those with AD had lower total ceramide levels in the stratum corneum of affected sites than normal skin sites in healthy individuals.⁸

Particular disturbances in the gut microbiome have the possibility of impacting the development of AD.⁹ Additionally, the development of AD may be influenced by the skin microbiome, which can change depending on body site, with fungal organisms thought to make up a large proportion of the microbiome of patients with AD. In patients with AD, there is a lack of microbial diversity and an overgrowth of Staphylococcus aureus.⁹

Diagnosis

Clinicians diagnose AD based on clinical characteristics, and the lack of objective criteria can hinder diagnosis.¹ Thus, diagnosing AD in children with dark skin can pose a particular challenge given the varied clinical presentation of AD across skin types. Severe cases of AD may not be diagnosed or treated adequately in deeply pigmented children because erythema, a defining characteristic of AD, may be hard to identify in darker skin types.¹⁰ Furthermore, clinical erythema scores among black children may be “strongly” underestimated using scoring systems such as Eczema Area and Severity Index and SCORing Atopic Dermatitis.⁴ It is estimated that the risk for severe AD may be 6 times higher in black children compared to white children.¹⁰ Additionally, patients with skin of color can present with more treatment-resistant AD.⁴

Treatment of AD

Current treatment is focused on restoring epidermal barrier function, often with topical agents, such as moisturizers containing different amounts of emollients, occlusives, and humectants; corticosteroids; calcineurin inhibitors; and antimicrobials. Emollients such as glycol stearate, glyceryl stearate, and soy sterols function as lubricants, softening the skin. Occlusive agents include petrolatum, dimethicone, and mineral oil; they act by forming a layer to slow evaporation of water. Humectants including glycerol, lactic acid, and urea function by promoting water retention.¹¹ For acute flares, mid- to high-potency topical corticosteroids are recommended. Also, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus may be used alone or in combination with topical steroids. Finally, bleach baths and topical mupirocin applied to the nares also have proved helpful in moderate to severe AD with secondary bacterial infections.¹¹ Phototherapy can be used in adult and pediatric patients with acute and chronic AD if traditional treatments have failed.²

Systemic agents are indicated and recommended for the subset of adult and pediatric patients in whom optimized topical regimens and/or phototherapy do not adequately provide disease control or when QOL is substantially impacted. The systemic agents effective in the pediatric population include cyclosporine, azathioprine, mycophenolate mofetil, and possibly methotrexate.¹¹ Dupilumab recently was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for patients 12 years and older with moderate to severe AD whose disease is not well controlled with topical medications.

Patients with AD are predisposed to secondary bacterial and viral infections because of their dysfunctional skin barrier; these infections most commonly are caused by S aureus and herpes simplex virus, respectively.² Systemic antibiotics are only recommended for patients with AD when there is clinical evidence of bacterial infection. In patients with evidence of eczema herpeticum, systemic antiviral agents should be used to treat the underlying herpes simplex virus infection.² Atopic dermatitis typically has been studied in white patients; however, patients with skin of color have higher frequencies of treatment-resistant AD. Further research on treatment efficacy for AD in this patient population is needed, as data are limited.⁴

Treatment of AV in Patients With AD

Two of the most prevalent skin diseases affecting the pediatric population are AD and AV, and both can remarkably impact QOL.¹² Acne is one of the most common reasons for adolescent patients to seek dermatologic care, including patients with skin of color (Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI).¹³ Thus, it is to be expected that many black adolescents with AD also will have AV. For mild to moderate acne in patients with skin of color, topical retinoids and benzoyl peroxide typically are first line.¹³ These medications can be problematic for patients with AD, as retinoids and many other acne treatments can cause dryness, which may exacerbate AD.

Moisturizers containing ceramide can be a helpful adjunctive therapy in treating acne,¹⁴ especially in patients with AD. Modifications to application of acne medications, such as using topical retinoids every other night or mixing them with moisturizers to minimize dryness, may be beneficial to these patients. Dapsone gel 7.5% used daily also may be an option for adolescents with AD and AV. A double-blind, vehicle-controlled study demonstrated that dapsone is safe and effective for patients 12 years and older with moderate acne, and patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI rated local scaling, erythema, dryness, and stinging/burning as “none” in the study.¹⁵ Another potentially helpful topical agent in patients with AD and AV is sulfacetamide, as it is not likely to cause dryness of the skin. In a small study, sodium sulfacetamide 10% and sulfur 5% in an emollient foam vehicle showed no residual film or sulfur smell and resulted in acne reduction of 50%.¹⁶

Patients with skin of color often experience PIH in AD and acne or hypopigmentation from inflammatory dermatoses including AD.^17,18 In addition to the dryness from AD and topical retinoid use, patients with skin of color may develop irritant contact dermatitis, thus leading to PIH.¹³ Dryness and irritant contact dermatitis also can be seen with the use of benzoyl peroxide in black patients. Because of these effects, gentle moisturizers are recommended, and both benzoyl peroxide and retinoids should be initiated at lower doses in patients with skin of color.¹³

For patients with severe nodulocystic acne, isotretinoin is the treatment of choice in patients with skin of color,¹³ but there is a dearth of clinical studies addressing complications seen in black adolescents on this treatment, especially with respect to those with AD. Of note, systemic antibiotics typically are initiated before isotretinoin; however, this strategy is falling out of favor due to concern for antibiotic resistance with long-term use.¹⁹

Impact of Athletics on AD in Black Adolescents

Because of the exacerbating effects of perspiration and heat causing itch and irritation in patients with AD, it is frequently advised that pediatric patients limit their participation in athletics because of the exacerbating effects of strenuous physical exercise on their disease.¹² In one study, 429 pediatric patients or their parents/guardians completed QOL questionnaires; 89% of patients 15 years and younger with severe AD reported that their disease was impacted by athletics and outdoor activities, and 86% of these pediatric patients with severe AD responded that their social lives and leisure activities were impacted.²⁰ Because adolescents often are involved in athletics or have mandatory physical education classes, AD may be isolating and may have a severe impact on self-esteem.

Aggressive treatment of AD with topical and systemic medications may be helpful in adolescents who may be reluctant to participate in sports because of teasing, bullying, or worsening of symptoms with heat or sweating.²¹ Now that dupilumab is available for adolescents, there is a chance that patients with severe and/or recalcitrant disease managed on this medication can achieve better control of their symptoms without the laboratory requirement of methotrexate and the difficulties of topical medication application, allowing them to engage in mandatory athletic classes as well as desired organized sports.

Use of Cosmetics for AD

Many adolescents experiment with cosmetics, and those with AD may use cosmetic products to cover hyperpigmented or hypopigmented lesions.¹⁸ In patients with active AD or increased sensitivity to allergens in cosmetic products, use of makeup can be a contributing factor for AD flares. Acne associated with cosmetics is especially important to consider in darker-skinned patients who may use makeup that is opaque and contains oil to conceal acne or PIH.

Allergens can be present in both cosmetics and pharmaceutical topical agents, and a Brazilian study found that approximately 89% of 813 prescription and nonprescription products (eg, topical drugs, sunscreens, moisturizers, soaps, cleansing lotions, shampoos, cosmeceuticals) contained allergens.²² Patients with AD have a higher prevalence of contact sensitization to fragrances, including balsam of Peru.²³ Some AD treatments that contain fragrances have caused further skin issues in a few patients. In one case series, 3 pediatric patients developed allergic contact dermatitis to Myroxylon pereirae (balsam of Peru) when using topical treatments for their AD, and their symptoms of scalp inflammation and alopecia resolved with discontinuation.²³

In a Dutch study, sensitization to Fragrance Mix I and M pereirae as well as other ingredients (eg, lanolin alcohol, Amerchol™ L 101 [a lanolin product]) was notably more common in pediatric patients with AD than in patients without AD; however, no data on patients with skin of color were included in this study.²⁴

Because of the increased risk of sensitization to fragrances and other ingredients in patients with AD as well as the high percentage of allergens in prescription and nonprescription products, it is important to discuss all personal care products that patients may be using, not just their cosmetic products. Also, patch testing may be helpful in determining true allergens in some patients. Patch testing is recommended for patients with treatment-resistant AD, and a recent study suggested it should be done prior to long-term use of immunosuppressive agents.²⁵ Increased steroid phobia and a push toward alternative medicines are leading both patients with AD and guardians of children with AD to look for other forms of moisturization, such as olive oil, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, and shea butter, to decrease transepidermal water loss.^26,27 An important factor in AD treatment efficacy is patient acceptability in using what is recommended.²⁷ One study showed there was no difference in efficacy or acceptability in using a cream containing shea butter extract vs the ceramide-precursor product.²⁷ Current data show olive oil may exacerbate dry skin and AD,²⁶ and recommendation of any over-the-counter oils and butters in patients with AD should be made with great caution, as many of these products contain fragrances and other potential allergens.

Alternative Therapies for AD

Patients with AD often seek alternative or integrative treatment options, including dietary modifications and holistic remedies. Studies investigating the role of vitamins and supplements in treating AD are limited by sample size.²⁸ However, there is some evidence that may support supplementation with vitamins D and E in addressing AD symptoms. The use of probiotics in treating AD is controversial, but there are studies suggesting that the use of probiotics may prove beneficial in preventing infantile AD.²⁸ Additionally, findings from an ex vivo and in vitro study show that some conditions, including AD and acne, may benefit from the same probiotics, despite the differences in these two diseases. Both AD and acne have inflammatory and skin dysbiosis characteristics, which may be the common thread leading to both conditions potentially responding to treatment with probiotics.²⁹

Preliminary evidence indicates that supplements containing fatty acids such as docosahexaenoic acid, sea buckthorn oil, and hemp seed oil may decrease the severity of AD.²⁸ In a 20-week, randomized, single-blind, crossover study published in 2005, dietary hemp seed oil showed an improvement of clinical symptoms, including dry skin and itchiness, in patients with AD.³⁰

In light of recent legalization in several states, patients may turn to use of cannabinoid products to manage AD. In a systematic review, cannabinoid use was reportedly a therapeutic option in the treatment of AD and AV; however, the data are based on preclinical work, and there are no randomized, placebo-controlled studies to support the use of cannabinoids.³¹ Furthermore, there is great concern that use of these products in adolescents is an even larger unknown.

Final Thoughts

Eighty percent of children diagnosed with AD experience symptom improvement before their early teens³²; for those with AD during their preteen and teenage years, there can be psychological ramifications, as teenagers with AD report having fewer friends, are less socially involved, participate in fewer sports, and are absent from classes more often than their peers.⁵ In black patients with AD, school absences are even more common.⁶ Given the social and emotional impact of AD on patients with skin of color, it is imperative to treat the condition appropriately.³³ There are areas of opportunity for further research on alternate dosing of existing treatments for AV in patients with AD, further recommendations for adolescent athletes with AD, and which cosmetic and alternative medicine products may be beneficial for this population to improve their QOL.

Providers should discuss medical management in a broader context considering patients’ extracurricular activities, treatment vehicle preferences, expectations, and personal care habits. It also is important to address the many possible factors that may influence treatment adherence early on, particularly in adolescents, as these could be barriers to treatment. This article highlights considerations for treating AD and comorbid conditions that may further complicate treatment in adolescent patients with skin of color. The information provided should serve as a guide in initial counseling and management of AD in adolescents with skin of color.

Data are limited on the management of atopic dermatitis (AD) in adolescents, particularly in patients with skin of color, making it important to identify factors that may improve AD management in this population. Comorbid conditions (eg, acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation [PIH]), extracurricular activities (eg, athletics), and experimentation with cosmetics in adolescents, all of which can undermine treatment efficacy and medication adherence, make it particularly challenging to devise a therapeutic regimen in this patient population. We review the management of AD in black adolescents, with special consideration of concomitant treatment of acne vulgaris (AV) as well as lifestyle and social choices (Table).

Prevalence and Epidemiology

Atopic dermatitis affects 13% to 25% of children and 2% to 10% of adults.^1,2 Population‐based studies in the United States show a higher prevalence of AD in black children (19.3%) compared to European American (EA) children (16.1%).^3,4

AD in Black Adolescents

Atopic dermatitis is a common skin condition that is defined as a chronic, pruritic, inflammatory dermatosis with recurrent scaling, papules, and plaques (Figure) that usually develop during infancy and early childhood.³ Although AD severity improves for some patients in adolescence, it can be a lifelong issue affecting performance in academic and occupational settings.⁵ One US study of 8015 children found that there are racial and ethnic disparities in school absences among children (age range, 2–17 years) with AD, with children with skin of color being absent more often than white children.⁶ The same study noted that black children had a 1.5-fold higher chance of being absent 6 days over a 6-month school period compared to white children. It is postulated that AD has a greater impact on quality of life (QOL) in children with skin of color, resulting in the increased number of school absences in this population.⁶

The origin of AD currently is thought to be complex and can involve skin barrier dysfunction, environmental factors, microbiome effects, genetic predisposition, and immune dysregulation.^1,4 Atopic dermatitis is a heterogeneous disease with variations in the prevalence, genetic background, and immune activation patterns across racial groups.⁴ It is now understood to be an immune-mediated disease with multiple inflammatory pathways, with type 2–associated inflammation being a primary pathway. Patients with AD have strong helper T cell (T_H2) activation, and black patients with AD have higher IgE serum levels as well as absent T_H17/T_H1 activation.⁴

Atopic dermatitis currently is seen as a defect of the epidermal barrier, with variable clinical manifestations and expressivity.⁷ Filaggrin is an epidermal barrier protein, encoded by the FLG gene, and plays a major role in barrier function by regulating pH and promoting hydration of the skin.⁴ Loss of function of the FLG gene is the most well-studied genetic risk factor for developing AD, and this mutation is seen in patients with more severe and persistent AD in addition to patients with more skin infections and allergic sensitizations.^3,4 However, in the skin of color population, FLG mutations are 6 times less common than in the EA population, despite the fact that AD is more prevalent in patients of African descent.⁴ Therefore, the role of the FLG loss-of-function mutation and AD is not as well defined in black patients, and some researchers have found no association.³ The FLG loss-of-function mutation seems to play a smaller role in black patients than in EA patients, and other genes may be involved in skin barrier dysfunction.^3,4 In a small study of patients with mild AD compared to nonaffected patients, those with AD had lower total ceramide levels in the stratum corneum of affected sites than normal skin sites in healthy individuals.⁸

Particular disturbances in the gut microbiome have the possibility of impacting the development of AD.⁹ Additionally, the development of AD may be influenced by the skin microbiome, which can change depending on body site, with fungal organisms thought to make up a large proportion of the microbiome of patients with AD. In patients with AD, there is a lack of microbial diversity and an overgrowth of Staphylococcus aureus.⁹

Diagnosis

Clinicians diagnose AD based on clinical characteristics, and the lack of objective criteria can hinder diagnosis.¹ Thus, diagnosing AD in children with dark skin can pose a particular challenge given the varied clinical presentation of AD across skin types. Severe cases of AD may not be diagnosed or treated adequately in deeply pigmented children because erythema, a defining characteristic of AD, may be hard to identify in darker skin types.¹⁰ Furthermore, clinical erythema scores among black children may be “strongly” underestimated using scoring systems such as Eczema Area and Severity Index and SCORing Atopic Dermatitis.⁴ It is estimated that the risk for severe AD may be 6 times higher in black children compared to white children.¹⁰ Additionally, patients with skin of color can present with more treatment-resistant AD.⁴

Treatment of AD

Current treatment is focused on restoring epidermal barrier function, often with topical agents, such as moisturizers containing different amounts of emollients, occlusives, and humectants; corticosteroids; calcineurin inhibitors; and antimicrobials. Emollients such as glycol stearate, glyceryl stearate, and soy sterols function as lubricants, softening the skin. Occlusive agents include petrolatum, dimethicone, and mineral oil; they act by forming a layer to slow evaporation of water. Humectants including glycerol, lactic acid, and urea function by promoting water retention.¹¹ For acute flares, mid- to high-potency topical corticosteroids are recommended. Also, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus may be used alone or in combination with topical steroids. Finally, bleach baths and topical mupirocin applied to the nares also have proved helpful in moderate to severe AD with secondary bacterial infections.¹¹ Phototherapy can be used in adult and pediatric patients with acute and chronic AD if traditional treatments have failed.²

Systemic agents are indicated and recommended for the subset of adult and pediatric patients in whom optimized topical regimens and/or phototherapy do not adequately provide disease control or when QOL is substantially impacted. The systemic agents effective in the pediatric population include cyclosporine, azathioprine, mycophenolate mofetil, and possibly methotrexate.¹¹ Dupilumab recently was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for patients 12 years and older with moderate to severe AD whose disease is not well controlled with topical medications.

Patients with AD are predisposed to secondary bacterial and viral infections because of their dysfunctional skin barrier; these infections most commonly are caused by S aureus and herpes simplex virus, respectively.² Systemic antibiotics are only recommended for patients with AD when there is clinical evidence of bacterial infection. In patients with evidence of eczema herpeticum, systemic antiviral agents should be used to treat the underlying herpes simplex virus infection.² Atopic dermatitis typically has been studied in white patients; however, patients with skin of color have higher frequencies of treatment-resistant AD. Further research on treatment efficacy for AD in this patient population is needed, as data are limited.⁴

Treatment of AV in Patients With AD

Two of the most prevalent skin diseases affecting the pediatric population are AD and AV, and both can remarkably impact QOL.¹² Acne is one of the most common reasons for adolescent patients to seek dermatologic care, including patients with skin of color (Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI).¹³ Thus, it is to be expected that many black adolescents with AD also will have AV. For mild to moderate acne in patients with skin of color, topical retinoids and benzoyl peroxide typically are first line.¹³ These medications can be problematic for patients with AD, as retinoids and many other acne treatments can cause dryness, which may exacerbate AD.

Moisturizers containing ceramide can be a helpful adjunctive therapy in treating acne,¹⁴ especially in patients with AD. Modifications to application of acne medications, such as using topical retinoids every other night or mixing them with moisturizers to minimize dryness, may be beneficial to these patients. Dapsone gel 7.5% used daily also may be an option for adolescents with AD and AV. A double-blind, vehicle-controlled study demonstrated that dapsone is safe and effective for patients 12 years and older with moderate acne, and patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI rated local scaling, erythema, dryness, and stinging/burning as “none” in the study.¹⁵ Another potentially helpful topical agent in patients with AD and AV is sulfacetamide, as it is not likely to cause dryness of the skin. In a small study, sodium sulfacetamide 10% and sulfur 5% in an emollient foam vehicle showed no residual film or sulfur smell and resulted in acne reduction of 50%.¹⁶

Patients with skin of color often experience PIH in AD and acne or hypopigmentation from inflammatory dermatoses including AD.^17,18 In addition to the dryness from AD and topical retinoid use, patients with skin of color may develop irritant contact dermatitis, thus leading to PIH.¹³ Dryness and irritant contact dermatitis also can be seen with the use of benzoyl peroxide in black patients. Because of these effects, gentle moisturizers are recommended, and both benzoyl peroxide and retinoids should be initiated at lower doses in patients with skin of color.¹³

For patients with severe nodulocystic acne, isotretinoin is the treatment of choice in patients with skin of color,¹³ but there is a dearth of clinical studies addressing complications seen in black adolescents on this treatment, especially with respect to those with AD. Of note, systemic antibiotics typically are initiated before isotretinoin; however, this strategy is falling out of favor due to concern for antibiotic resistance with long-term use.¹⁹

Impact of Athletics on AD in Black Adolescents

Because of the exacerbating effects of perspiration and heat causing itch and irritation in patients with AD, it is frequently advised that pediatric patients limit their participation in athletics because of the exacerbating effects of strenuous physical exercise on their disease.¹² In one study, 429 pediatric patients or their parents/guardians completed QOL questionnaires; 89% of patients 15 years and younger with severe AD reported that their disease was impacted by athletics and outdoor activities, and 86% of these pediatric patients with severe AD responded that their social lives and leisure activities were impacted.²⁰ Because adolescents often are involved in athletics or have mandatory physical education classes, AD may be isolating and may have a severe impact on self-esteem.

Aggressive treatment of AD with topical and systemic medications may be helpful in adolescents who may be reluctant to participate in sports because of teasing, bullying, or worsening of symptoms with heat or sweating.²¹ Now that dupilumab is available for adolescents, there is a chance that patients with severe and/or recalcitrant disease managed on this medication can achieve better control of their symptoms without the laboratory requirement of methotrexate and the difficulties of topical medication application, allowing them to engage in mandatory athletic classes as well as desired organized sports.

Use of Cosmetics for AD

Many adolescents experiment with cosmetics, and those with AD may use cosmetic products to cover hyperpigmented or hypopigmented lesions.¹⁸ In patients with active AD or increased sensitivity to allergens in cosmetic products, use of makeup can be a contributing factor for AD flares. Acne associated with cosmetics is especially important to consider in darker-skinned patients who may use makeup that is opaque and contains oil to conceal acne or PIH.

Allergens can be present in both cosmetics and pharmaceutical topical agents, and a Brazilian study found that approximately 89% of 813 prescription and nonprescription products (eg, topical drugs, sunscreens, moisturizers, soaps, cleansing lotions, shampoos, cosmeceuticals) contained allergens.²² Patients with AD have a higher prevalence of contact sensitization to fragrances, including balsam of Peru.²³ Some AD treatments that contain fragrances have caused further skin issues in a few patients. In one case series, 3 pediatric patients developed allergic contact dermatitis to Myroxylon pereirae (balsam of Peru) when using topical treatments for their AD, and their symptoms of scalp inflammation and alopecia resolved with discontinuation.²³

In a Dutch study, sensitization to Fragrance Mix I and M pereirae as well as other ingredients (eg, lanolin alcohol, Amerchol™ L 101 [a lanolin product]) was notably more common in pediatric patients with AD than in patients without AD; however, no data on patients with skin of color were included in this study.²⁴

Because of the increased risk of sensitization to fragrances and other ingredients in patients with AD as well as the high percentage of allergens in prescription and nonprescription products, it is important to discuss all personal care products that patients may be using, not just their cosmetic products. Also, patch testing may be helpful in determining true allergens in some patients. Patch testing is recommended for patients with treatment-resistant AD, and a recent study suggested it should be done prior to long-term use of immunosuppressive agents.²⁵ Increased steroid phobia and a push toward alternative medicines are leading both patients with AD and guardians of children with AD to look for other forms of moisturization, such as olive oil, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, and shea butter, to decrease transepidermal water loss.^26,27 An important factor in AD treatment efficacy is patient acceptability in using what is recommended.²⁷ One study showed there was no difference in efficacy or acceptability in using a cream containing shea butter extract vs the ceramide-precursor product.²⁷ Current data show olive oil may exacerbate dry skin and AD,²⁶ and recommendation of any over-the-counter oils and butters in patients with AD should be made with great caution, as many of these products contain fragrances and other potential allergens.

Alternative Therapies for AD

Patients with AD often seek alternative or integrative treatment options, including dietary modifications and holistic remedies. Studies investigating the role of vitamins and supplements in treating AD are limited by sample size.²⁸ However, there is some evidence that may support supplementation with vitamins D and E in addressing AD symptoms. The use of probiotics in treating AD is controversial, but there are studies suggesting that the use of probiotics may prove beneficial in preventing infantile AD.²⁸ Additionally, findings from an ex vivo and in vitro study show that some conditions, including AD and acne, may benefit from the same probiotics, despite the differences in these two diseases. Both AD and acne have inflammatory and skin dysbiosis characteristics, which may be the common thread leading to both conditions potentially responding to treatment with probiotics.²⁹

Preliminary evidence indicates that supplements containing fatty acids such as docosahexaenoic acid, sea buckthorn oil, and hemp seed oil may decrease the severity of AD.²⁸ In a 20-week, randomized, single-blind, crossover study published in 2005, dietary hemp seed oil showed an improvement of clinical symptoms, including dry skin and itchiness, in patients with AD.³⁰

In light of recent legalization in several states, patients may turn to use of cannabinoid products to manage AD. In a systematic review, cannabinoid use was reportedly a therapeutic option in the treatment of AD and AV; however, the data are based on preclinical work, and there are no randomized, placebo-controlled studies to support the use of cannabinoids.³¹ Furthermore, there is great concern that use of these products in adolescents is an even larger unknown.

Final Thoughts

Eighty percent of children diagnosed with AD experience symptom improvement before their early teens³²; for those with AD during their preteen and teenage years, there can be psychological ramifications, as teenagers with AD report having fewer friends, are less socially involved, participate in fewer sports, and are absent from classes more often than their peers.⁵ In black patients with AD, school absences are even more common.⁶ Given the social and emotional impact of AD on patients with skin of color, it is imperative to treat the condition appropriately.³³ There are areas of opportunity for further research on alternate dosing of existing treatments for AV in patients with AD, further recommendations for adolescent athletes with AD, and which cosmetic and alternative medicine products may be beneficial for this population to improve their QOL.

Providers should discuss medical management in a broader context considering patients’ extracurricular activities, treatment vehicle preferences, expectations, and personal care habits. It also is important to address the many possible factors that may influence treatment adherence early on, particularly in adolescents, as these could be barriers to treatment. This article highlights considerations for treating AD and comorbid conditions that may further complicate treatment in adolescent patients with skin of color. The information provided should serve as a guide in initial counseling and management of AD in adolescents with skin of color.

Data are limited on the management of atopic dermatitis (AD) in adolescents, particularly in patients with skin of color, making it important to identify factors that may improve AD management in this population. Comorbid conditions (eg, acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation [PIH]), extracurricular activities (eg, athletics), and experimentation with cosmetics in adolescents, all of which can undermine treatment efficacy and medication adherence, make it particularly challenging to devise a therapeutic regimen in this patient population. We review the management of AD in black adolescents, with special consideration of concomitant treatment of acne vulgaris (AV) as well as lifestyle and social choices (Table).

Prevalence and Epidemiology

Atopic dermatitis affects 13% to 25% of children and 2% to 10% of adults.^1,2 Population‐based studies in the United States show a higher prevalence of AD in black children (19.3%) compared to European American (EA) children (16.1%).^3,4

AD in Black Adolescents

Atopic dermatitis is a common skin condition that is defined as a chronic, pruritic, inflammatory dermatosis with recurrent scaling, papules, and plaques (Figure) that usually develop during infancy and early childhood.³ Although AD severity improves for some patients in adolescence, it can be a lifelong issue affecting performance in academic and occupational settings.⁵ One US study of 8015 children found that there are racial and ethnic disparities in school absences among children (age range, 2–17 years) with AD, with children with skin of color being absent more often than white children.⁶ The same study noted that black children had a 1.5-fold higher chance of being absent 6 days over a 6-month school period compared to white children. It is postulated that AD has a greater impact on quality of life (QOL) in children with skin of color, resulting in the increased number of school absences in this population.⁶

The origin of AD currently is thought to be complex and can involve skin barrier dysfunction, environmental factors, microbiome effects, genetic predisposition, and immune dysregulation.^1,4 Atopic dermatitis is a heterogeneous disease with variations in the prevalence, genetic background, and immune activation patterns across racial groups.⁴ It is now understood to be an immune-mediated disease with multiple inflammatory pathways, with type 2–associated inflammation being a primary pathway. Patients with AD have strong helper T cell (T_H2) activation, and black patients with AD have higher IgE serum levels as well as absent T_H17/T_H1 activation.⁴

Atopic dermatitis currently is seen as a defect of the epidermal barrier, with variable clinical manifestations and expressivity.⁷ Filaggrin is an epidermal barrier protein, encoded by the FLG gene, and plays a major role in barrier function by regulating pH and promoting hydration of the skin.⁴ Loss of function of the FLG gene is the most well-studied genetic risk factor for developing AD, and this mutation is seen in patients with more severe and persistent AD in addition to patients with more skin infections and allergic sensitizations.^3,4 However, in the skin of color population, FLG mutations are 6 times less common than in the EA population, despite the fact that AD is more prevalent in patients of African descent.⁴ Therefore, the role of the FLG loss-of-function mutation and AD is not as well defined in black patients, and some researchers have found no association.³ The FLG loss-of-function mutation seems to play a smaller role in black patients than in EA patients, and other genes may be involved in skin barrier dysfunction.^3,4 In a small study of patients with mild AD compared to nonaffected patients, those with AD had lower total ceramide levels in the stratum corneum of affected sites than normal skin sites in healthy individuals.⁸

Particular disturbances in the gut microbiome have the possibility of impacting the development of AD.⁹ Additionally, the development of AD may be influenced by the skin microbiome, which can change depending on body site, with fungal organisms thought to make up a large proportion of the microbiome of patients with AD. In patients with AD, there is a lack of microbial diversity and an overgrowth of Staphylococcus aureus.⁹

Diagnosis

Clinicians diagnose AD based on clinical characteristics, and the lack of objective criteria can hinder diagnosis.¹ Thus, diagnosing AD in children with dark skin can pose a particular challenge given the varied clinical presentation of AD across skin types. Severe cases of AD may not be diagnosed or treated adequately in deeply pigmented children because erythema, a defining characteristic of AD, may be hard to identify in darker skin types.¹⁰ Furthermore, clinical erythema scores among black children may be “strongly” underestimated using scoring systems such as Eczema Area and Severity Index and SCORing Atopic Dermatitis.⁴ It is estimated that the risk for severe AD may be 6 times higher in black children compared to white children.¹⁰ Additionally, patients with skin of color can present with more treatment-resistant AD.⁴

Treatment of AD

Current treatment is focused on restoring epidermal barrier function, often with topical agents, such as moisturizers containing different amounts of emollients, occlusives, and humectants; corticosteroids; calcineurin inhibitors; and antimicrobials. Emollients such as glycol stearate, glyceryl stearate, and soy sterols function as lubricants, softening the skin. Occlusive agents include petrolatum, dimethicone, and mineral oil; they act by forming a layer to slow evaporation of water. Humectants including glycerol, lactic acid, and urea function by promoting water retention.¹¹ For acute flares, mid- to high-potency topical corticosteroids are recommended. Also, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus may be used alone or in combination with topical steroids. Finally, bleach baths and topical mupirocin applied to the nares also have proved helpful in moderate to severe AD with secondary bacterial infections.¹¹ Phototherapy can be used in adult and pediatric patients with acute and chronic AD if traditional treatments have failed.²

Systemic agents are indicated and recommended for the subset of adult and pediatric patients in whom optimized topical regimens and/or phototherapy do not adequately provide disease control or when QOL is substantially impacted. The systemic agents effective in the pediatric population include cyclosporine, azathioprine, mycophenolate mofetil, and possibly methotrexate.¹¹ Dupilumab recently was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for patients 12 years and older with moderate to severe AD whose disease is not well controlled with topical medications.

Patients with AD are predisposed to secondary bacterial and viral infections because of their dysfunctional skin barrier; these infections most commonly are caused by S aureus and herpes simplex virus, respectively.² Systemic antibiotics are only recommended for patients with AD when there is clinical evidence of bacterial infection. In patients with evidence of eczema herpeticum, systemic antiviral agents should be used to treat the underlying herpes simplex virus infection.² Atopic dermatitis typically has been studied in white patients; however, patients with skin of color have higher frequencies of treatment-resistant AD. Further research on treatment efficacy for AD in this patient population is needed, as data are limited.⁴

Treatment of AV in Patients With AD

Two of the most prevalent skin diseases affecting the pediatric population are AD and AV, and both can remarkably impact QOL.¹² Acne is one of the most common reasons for adolescent patients to seek dermatologic care, including patients with skin of color (Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI).¹³ Thus, it is to be expected that many black adolescents with AD also will have AV. For mild to moderate acne in patients with skin of color, topical retinoids and benzoyl peroxide typically are first line.¹³ These medications can be problematic for patients with AD, as retinoids and many other acne treatments can cause dryness, which may exacerbate AD.

Moisturizers containing ceramide can be a helpful adjunctive therapy in treating acne,¹⁴ especially in patients with AD. Modifications to application of acne medications, such as using topical retinoids every other night or mixing them with moisturizers to minimize dryness, may be beneficial to these patients. Dapsone gel 7.5% used daily also may be an option for adolescents with AD and AV. A double-blind, vehicle-controlled study demonstrated that dapsone is safe and effective for patients 12 years and older with moderate acne, and patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI rated local scaling, erythema, dryness, and stinging/burning as “none” in the study.¹⁵ Another potentially helpful topical agent in patients with AD and AV is sulfacetamide, as it is not likely to cause dryness of the skin. In a small study, sodium sulfacetamide 10% and sulfur 5% in an emollient foam vehicle showed no residual film or sulfur smell and resulted in acne reduction of 50%.¹⁶

Patients with skin of color often experience PIH in AD and acne or hypopigmentation from inflammatory dermatoses including AD.^17,18 In addition to the dryness from AD and topical retinoid use, patients with skin of color may develop irritant contact dermatitis, thus leading to PIH.¹³ Dryness and irritant contact dermatitis also can be seen with the use of benzoyl peroxide in black patients. Because of these effects, gentle moisturizers are recommended, and both benzoyl peroxide and retinoids should be initiated at lower doses in patients with skin of color.¹³

For patients with severe nodulocystic acne, isotretinoin is the treatment of choice in patients with skin of color,¹³ but there is a dearth of clinical studies addressing complications seen in black adolescents on this treatment, especially with respect to those with AD. Of note, systemic antibiotics typically are initiated before isotretinoin; however, this strategy is falling out of favor due to concern for antibiotic resistance with long-term use.¹⁹

Impact of Athletics on AD in Black Adolescents

Because of the exacerbating effects of perspiration and heat causing itch and irritation in patients with AD, it is frequently advised that pediatric patients limit their participation in athletics because of the exacerbating effects of strenuous physical exercise on their disease.¹² In one study, 429 pediatric patients or their parents/guardians completed QOL questionnaires; 89% of patients 15 years and younger with severe AD reported that their disease was impacted by athletics and outdoor activities, and 86% of these pediatric patients with severe AD responded that their social lives and leisure activities were impacted.²⁰ Because adolescents often are involved in athletics or have mandatory physical education classes, AD may be isolating and may have a severe impact on self-esteem.

Aggressive treatment of AD with topical and systemic medications may be helpful in adolescents who may be reluctant to participate in sports because of teasing, bullying, or worsening of symptoms with heat or sweating.²¹ Now that dupilumab is available for adolescents, there is a chance that patients with severe and/or recalcitrant disease managed on this medication can achieve better control of their symptoms without the laboratory requirement of methotrexate and the difficulties of topical medication application, allowing them to engage in mandatory athletic classes as well as desired organized sports.

Use of Cosmetics for AD

Many adolescents experiment with cosmetics, and those with AD may use cosmetic products to cover hyperpigmented or hypopigmented lesions.¹⁸ In patients with active AD or increased sensitivity to allergens in cosmetic products, use of makeup can be a contributing factor for AD flares. Acne associated with cosmetics is especially important to consider in darker-skinned patients who may use makeup that is opaque and contains oil to conceal acne or PIH.

Allergens can be present in both cosmetics and pharmaceutical topical agents, and a Brazilian study found that approximately 89% of 813 prescription and nonprescription products (eg, topical drugs, sunscreens, moisturizers, soaps, cleansing lotions, shampoos, cosmeceuticals) contained allergens.²² Patients with AD have a higher prevalence of contact sensitization to fragrances, including balsam of Peru.²³ Some AD treatments that contain fragrances have caused further skin issues in a few patients. In one case series, 3 pediatric patients developed allergic contact dermatitis to Myroxylon pereirae (balsam of Peru) when using topical treatments for their AD, and their symptoms of scalp inflammation and alopecia resolved with discontinuation.²³

In a Dutch study, sensitization to Fragrance Mix I and M pereirae as well as other ingredients (eg, lanolin alcohol, Amerchol™ L 101 [a lanolin product]) was notably more common in pediatric patients with AD than in patients without AD; however, no data on patients with skin of color were included in this study.²⁴

Because of the increased risk of sensitization to fragrances and other ingredients in patients with AD as well as the high percentage of allergens in prescription and nonprescription products, it is important to discuss all personal care products that patients may be using, not just their cosmetic products. Also, patch testing may be helpful in determining true allergens in some patients. Patch testing is recommended for patients with treatment-resistant AD, and a recent study suggested it should be done prior to long-term use of immunosuppressive agents.²⁵ Increased steroid phobia and a push toward alternative medicines are leading both patients with AD and guardians of children with AD to look for other forms of moisturization, such as olive oil, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, and shea butter, to decrease transepidermal water loss.^26,27 An important factor in AD treatment efficacy is patient acceptability in using what is recommended.²⁷ One study showed there was no difference in efficacy or acceptability in using a cream containing shea butter extract vs the ceramide-precursor product.²⁷ Current data show olive oil may exacerbate dry skin and AD,²⁶ and recommendation of any over-the-counter oils and butters in patients with AD should be made with great caution, as many of these products contain fragrances and other potential allergens.

Alternative Therapies for AD

Patients with AD often seek alternative or integrative treatment options, including dietary modifications and holistic remedies. Studies investigating the role of vitamins and supplements in treating AD are limited by sample size.²⁸ However, there is some evidence that may support supplementation with vitamins D and E in addressing AD symptoms. The use of probiotics in treating AD is controversial, but there are studies suggesting that the use of probiotics may prove beneficial in preventing infantile AD.²⁸ Additionally, findings from an ex vivo and in vitro study show that some conditions, including AD and acne, may benefit from the same probiotics, despite the differences in these two diseases. Both AD and acne have inflammatory and skin dysbiosis characteristics, which may be the common thread leading to both conditions potentially responding to treatment with probiotics.²⁹

Preliminary evidence indicates that supplements containing fatty acids such as docosahexaenoic acid, sea buckthorn oil, and hemp seed oil may decrease the severity of AD.²⁸ In a 20-week, randomized, single-blind, crossover study published in 2005, dietary hemp seed oil showed an improvement of clinical symptoms, including dry skin and itchiness, in patients with AD.³⁰

In light of recent legalization in several states, patients may turn to use of cannabinoid products to manage AD. In a systematic review, cannabinoid use was reportedly a therapeutic option in the treatment of AD and AV; however, the data are based on preclinical work, and there are no randomized, placebo-controlled studies to support the use of cannabinoids.³¹ Furthermore, there is great concern that use of these products in adolescents is an even larger unknown.

Final Thoughts

Eighty percent of children diagnosed with AD experience symptom improvement before their early teens³²; for those with AD during their preteen and teenage years, there can be psychological ramifications, as teenagers with AD report having fewer friends, are less socially involved, participate in fewer sports, and are absent from classes more often than their peers.⁵ In black patients with AD, school absences are even more common.⁶ Given the social and emotional impact of AD on patients with skin of color, it is imperative to treat the condition appropriately.³³ There are areas of opportunity for further research on alternate dosing of existing treatments for AV in patients with AD, further recommendations for adolescent athletes with AD, and which cosmetic and alternative medicine products may be beneficial for this population to improve their QOL.

Providers should discuss medical management in a broader context considering patients’ extracurricular activities, treatment vehicle preferences, expectations, and personal care habits. It also is important to address the many possible factors that may influence treatment adherence early on, particularly in adolescents, as these could be barriers to treatment. This article highlights considerations for treating AD and comorbid conditions that may further complicate treatment in adolescent patients with skin of color. The information provided should serve as a guide in initial counseling and management of AD in adolescents with skin of color.

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. ^1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. ⁴ Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. ^5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). ¹ A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. ^6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.

Epidemiology

In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.⁹ A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.¹⁰ A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.¹¹ A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.¹² The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.⁸

Clinical Features

Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.¹³ This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.⁷

In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.¹² In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.¹⁴

Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.³ Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.

Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features

Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.

Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.¹⁵

Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.²¹ Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.²² In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.

Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis¹⁸; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al²³ described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,²⁴ making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.

Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.^25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.¹ In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.

Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.²⁷ Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.²⁸ Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin²⁹; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.³⁰ Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.^31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).^4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.³⁵ Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.³⁶ Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.

Final Thoughts

Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.

References

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. ^1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. ⁴ Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. ^5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). ¹ A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. ^6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.

Epidemiology

In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.⁹ A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.¹⁰ A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.¹¹ A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.¹² The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.⁸

Clinical Features

Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.¹³ This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.⁷

In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.¹² In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.¹⁴

Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.³ Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.

Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features

Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.

Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.¹⁵

Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.²¹ Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.²² In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.

Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis¹⁸; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al²³ described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,²⁴ making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.

Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.^25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.¹ In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.

Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.²⁷ Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.²⁸ Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin²⁹; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.³⁰ Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.^31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).^4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.³⁵ Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.³⁶ Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.

Final Thoughts

Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.

References

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. ^1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. ⁴ Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. ^5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). ¹ A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. ^6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.

Epidemiology

In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.⁹ A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.¹⁰ A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.¹¹ A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.¹² The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.⁸

Clinical Features

Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.¹³ This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.⁷

In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.¹² In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.¹⁴

Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.³ Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.

Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features

Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.

Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.¹⁵

Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.²¹ Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.²² In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.

Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis¹⁸; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al²³ described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,²⁴ making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.

Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.^25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.¹ In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.

Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.²⁷ Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.²⁸ Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin²⁹; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.³⁰ Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.^31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).^4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.³⁵ Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.³⁶ Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.

Final Thoughts

Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.

References

Acral lentiginous melanoma (ALM) is a rare subtype of melanoma that occurs on the palms, soles, and nail apparatus. Unlike more common types of melanoma, ALM occurs on sun-protected areas of the skin and has distinct clinical, histologic, and genetic features. Acral lentiginous melanoma accounts for a larger proportion of melanomas in individuals with skin of color and has a worse prognosis and recurrence rate than other forms of melanoma.

Population Trends in Skin of Color

Much of the literature on malignant melanoma historically has involved non-Hispanic white patients, but the incidence in lighter-skinned populations has been increasing steadily over the last few decades.¹ Although ALM can occur in any race, it disproportionately affects skin of color populations; ALM accounts for only 0.8% to 1% of all melanomas in white populations, but it constitutes 4% to 58% of melanomas in ethnic populations and is the most common melanoma subtype among black Americans.^2-5 Acral lentiginous melanoma also is associated with a worse prognosis compared to other subtypes, which may indicate a more aggressive biological nature⁶ but also may point toward socioeconomic and cultural barriers (eg, low income or education levels, lack of insurance, lower health literacy), leading to disparities in access to care and diagnosis at advanced stages.⁵

Similarly, the distribution of acral melanocytic nevi appears to demonstrate an association with ethnicity and skin pigmentation. Although skin of color patients have fewer nevi than non-Hispanic whites, the proportion of acral melanocytic nevi tends to be greater.^6,7 Given its grim prognosis, accurately differentiating ALM from acral nevi is of utmost importance.

Diagnostic Challenges of Acral Lesions

Due to the unique nature of the surfaces of acral sites, melanocytic lesions on the palms, soles, and nail apparatus present many diagnostic challenges. It can be difficult to distinguish acral melanoma from benign lesions using the naked eye alone. Volar surfaces are characterized by the presence of dermatoglyphics, and pigment deposition along ridges and furrows create particular dermoscopic patterns exclusive to these sites.⁸ Thus, dermoscopy can be useful on acral surfaces, but the dermoscopic features are different from those on the rest of the body and must be learned separately.

In addition, nearly half of patients are unaware of their acral lesions.⁶ Acral surfaces may not always be examined by clinicians during total-body skin examinations, leading to further possibility of overlooking a lesion. Obtaining biopsies on glabrous skin or nails also is challenging because they can be more painful and hemostasis can be more difficult, especially in the nail. Acral melanomas also may be amelanotic, including those at subungual sites. Although the overall incidence of amelanotic ALM is low, approximately 20% to 28% of amelanotic melanomas in Asian patients are located on acral sites.⁹ Due to these challenges, acral lesions may be overlooked or misdiagnosed as warts,¹⁰ tinea pedis,¹¹ or traumatic ulcers.¹²

Dermoscopic Patterns of Acral Volar Skin

Dermoscopy is a useful noninvasive tool for distinguishing between benign and malignant acral melanocytic lesions, and its efficacy in improving diagnostic accuracy and decreasing unnecessary biopsies is well-established in the literature.^13,14 Acral dermoscopy allows for visualization of pigment along the dermatoglyphics that constitute the characteristic dermoscopic patterns.

Acral Lentiginous Melanoma
The hallmark dermoscopic pattern and most important finding of ALM is the parallel ridge pattern, characterized by parallel linear pigmentation along the ridges of dermatoglyphics. In the early phases of malignancy, the pattern appears light brown and involves most of the lesion; as the tumor develops, increasing melanin production results in focal areas of the parallel ridge pattern with darker bands.^15,16 The sensitivity and specificity of a parallel ridge pattern for diagnosing early ALM has been shown to be 86% and 99%, respectively.^15,16

A pattern of irregular diffuse pigmentation also can be observed in more advanced ALM. Dermoscopy may reveal a structureless pattern (ie, lack of identifiable structures or patterns) in a background of tan-black coloration due to more exuberant melanocyte proliferation along the epidermis.¹⁵ Sensitivity and specificity of this dermoscopic finding for invasive lesions is high at 94% and 97%, respectively.^16,17 Interestingly, once ALM lesions have advanced even further, conventional melanoma-associated structures (ie, blue-white veil, polymorphous blood vessels, ulceration, irregular dots/globules or streaks) or atypical forms of typically benign acral dermoscopic patterns may be observed.¹⁵

Per a 3-step diagnostic algorithm created by Koga and Saida,¹⁸ a suspected acral lesion should first be evaluated for a parallel ridge pattern to determine the need for biopsy, as it is seen in approximately two-thirds of ALMs.¹⁹ If no parallel ridge pattern is observed, the lesion should then be checked for any of the typical dermoscopic patterns seen in benign acral nevi (eg, parallel furrow, latticelike, or fibrillar patterns).¹⁸ The maximum diameter should be measured only if the lesion does not exhibit any of the typical dermoscopic patterns. If the lesion’s diameter is greater than 7 mm in diameter, it should be biopsied; if the diameter is less than 7 mm, it should have regular clinical and dermoscopic follow-up.¹⁸

In 2015, Lallas et al²⁰ developed the BRAAFF checklist, a scoring system of 6 variables: blotches, ridge pattern, asymmetry of structures, asymmetry of colors, parallel furrow pattern, and fibrillar pattern. The checklist also was shown to substantially improve diagnostic accuracy of dermoscopy for ALM, with sensitivity and specificity at 93.1% and 86.7%, respectively.²⁰

Acquired Acral Nevi
Three classic dermoscopic patterns are associated with acquired acral nevi: parallel furrow pattern, latticelike pattern, and fibrillar pattern.^15,21 Approximately three-quarters of all acquired acral nevi exhibit one of these patterns, roughly half exhibiting parallel furrow with tan-brown bandlike pigmentation along dermatoglyphic grooves.^16,17

Latticelike patterns also are characterized by brown parallel lines along the sulci of dermatoglyphics but additionally have multiple intersecting lines. Thus, this pattern can be considered a variant of the parallel furrow pattern.¹⁵ The crisscross markings can be predominantly found in the plantar arch.²² This dermoscopic pattern comprises 15% to 25% of all acral nevi.²¹

Fibrillar pattern accounts for 10% to 20% of all acral melanocytic nevi.²¹ Dermoscopically, these lesions demonstrate parallel filamentous streaks that cross dermatoglyphics obliquely. The fibrillar pattern is predominantly found on weight-bearing areas of the sole,²² which likely is explained by pressure causing slanting of melanin columns in the horny layer.²³ The fibrillar pattern has been shown to be the benign acral dermoscopic pattern that is most commonly misdiagnosed, with higher reported rates of biopsy.²⁴

Acral Congenital Melanocytic Nevi
Congenital melanocytic nevi (CMN) present at birth or appear during the first few weeks of life. Congenital melanocytic nevi can vary widely in size, shape, and color, and they are occasionally biopsied in cases of larger diameter or dermoscopic atypia to differentiate from melanoma.²⁵ Congenital melanocytic nevi also can occur on acral volar surfaces. Possible dermoscopic patterns include parallel furrow or fibrillar patterns as well as a crista dotted pattern, defined as evenly spaced dots/globules on the ridges near the openings of eccrine ducts.²⁶ A more commonly observed dermoscopic pattern in acral CMN is a combination of the crista dotted and parallel furrow patterns, known as the peas-in-a-pod pattern. Changes in the clinical appearance and dermoscopic features of an acral CMN are possible over time; some lesions also may fade with age.²⁶

Final Thoughts

Acral lentiginous melanoma is a rare but potentially aggressive melanoma subtype that accounts for a larger proportion of melanomas in patients with skin of color than in white patients. Dermoscopy of acral volar skin provides invaluable diagnostic information and allows for better management of acral melanocytic lesions. Dermoscopic patterns such as the parallel ridge, parallel furrow, latticelike, fibrillar, and peas-in-a-pod patterns are unique to acral sites and can be used to differentiate between ALMs, acquired nevi, or CMNs.

Acral lentiginous melanoma (ALM) is a rare subtype of melanoma that occurs on the palms, soles, and nail apparatus. Unlike more common types of melanoma, ALM occurs on sun-protected areas of the skin and has distinct clinical, histologic, and genetic features. Acral lentiginous melanoma accounts for a larger proportion of melanomas in individuals with skin of color and has a worse prognosis and recurrence rate than other forms of melanoma.

Population Trends in Skin of Color

Much of the literature on malignant melanoma historically has involved non-Hispanic white patients, but the incidence in lighter-skinned populations has been increasing steadily over the last few decades.¹ Although ALM can occur in any race, it disproportionately affects skin of color populations; ALM accounts for only 0.8% to 1% of all melanomas in white populations, but it constitutes 4% to 58% of melanomas in ethnic populations and is the most common melanoma subtype among black Americans.^2-5 Acral lentiginous melanoma also is associated with a worse prognosis compared to other subtypes, which may indicate a more aggressive biological nature⁶ but also may point toward socioeconomic and cultural barriers (eg, low income or education levels, lack of insurance, lower health literacy), leading to disparities in access to care and diagnosis at advanced stages.⁵

Similarly, the distribution of acral melanocytic nevi appears to demonstrate an association with ethnicity and skin pigmentation. Although skin of color patients have fewer nevi than non-Hispanic whites, the proportion of acral melanocytic nevi tends to be greater.^6,7 Given its grim prognosis, accurately differentiating ALM from acral nevi is of utmost importance.

Diagnostic Challenges of Acral Lesions

Due to the unique nature of the surfaces of acral sites, melanocytic lesions on the palms, soles, and nail apparatus present many diagnostic challenges. It can be difficult to distinguish acral melanoma from benign lesions using the naked eye alone. Volar surfaces are characterized by the presence of dermatoglyphics, and pigment deposition along ridges and furrows create particular dermoscopic patterns exclusive to these sites.⁸ Thus, dermoscopy can be useful on acral surfaces, but the dermoscopic features are different from those on the rest of the body and must be learned separately.

In addition, nearly half of patients are unaware of their acral lesions.⁶ Acral surfaces may not always be examined by clinicians during total-body skin examinations, leading to further possibility of overlooking a lesion. Obtaining biopsies on glabrous skin or nails also is challenging because they can be more painful and hemostasis can be more difficult, especially in the nail. Acral melanomas also may be amelanotic, including those at subungual sites. Although the overall incidence of amelanotic ALM is low, approximately 20% to 28% of amelanotic melanomas in Asian patients are located on acral sites.⁹ Due to these challenges, acral lesions may be overlooked or misdiagnosed as warts,¹⁰ tinea pedis,¹¹ or traumatic ulcers.¹²

Dermoscopic Patterns of Acral Volar Skin

Dermoscopy is a useful noninvasive tool for distinguishing between benign and malignant acral melanocytic lesions, and its efficacy in improving diagnostic accuracy and decreasing unnecessary biopsies is well-established in the literature.^13,14 Acral dermoscopy allows for visualization of pigment along the dermatoglyphics that constitute the characteristic dermoscopic patterns.

Acral Lentiginous Melanoma
The hallmark dermoscopic pattern and most important finding of ALM is the parallel ridge pattern, characterized by parallel linear pigmentation along the ridges of dermatoglyphics. In the early phases of malignancy, the pattern appears light brown and involves most of the lesion; as the tumor develops, increasing melanin production results in focal areas of the parallel ridge pattern with darker bands.^15,16 The sensitivity and specificity of a parallel ridge pattern for diagnosing early ALM has been shown to be 86% and 99%, respectively.^15,16

A pattern of irregular diffuse pigmentation also can be observed in more advanced ALM. Dermoscopy may reveal a structureless pattern (ie, lack of identifiable structures or patterns) in a background of tan-black coloration due to more exuberant melanocyte proliferation along the epidermis.¹⁵ Sensitivity and specificity of this dermoscopic finding for invasive lesions is high at 94% and 97%, respectively.^16,17 Interestingly, once ALM lesions have advanced even further, conventional melanoma-associated structures (ie, blue-white veil, polymorphous blood vessels, ulceration, irregular dots/globules or streaks) or atypical forms of typically benign acral dermoscopic patterns may be observed.¹⁵

Per a 3-step diagnostic algorithm created by Koga and Saida,¹⁸ a suspected acral lesion should first be evaluated for a parallel ridge pattern to determine the need for biopsy, as it is seen in approximately two-thirds of ALMs.¹⁹ If no parallel ridge pattern is observed, the lesion should then be checked for any of the typical dermoscopic patterns seen in benign acral nevi (eg, parallel furrow, latticelike, or fibrillar patterns).¹⁸ The maximum diameter should be measured only if the lesion does not exhibit any of the typical dermoscopic patterns. If the lesion’s diameter is greater than 7 mm in diameter, it should be biopsied; if the diameter is less than 7 mm, it should have regular clinical and dermoscopic follow-up.¹⁸

In 2015, Lallas et al²⁰ developed the BRAAFF checklist, a scoring system of 6 variables: blotches, ridge pattern, asymmetry of structures, asymmetry of colors, parallel furrow pattern, and fibrillar pattern. The checklist also was shown to substantially improve diagnostic accuracy of dermoscopy for ALM, with sensitivity and specificity at 93.1% and 86.7%, respectively.²⁰

Acquired Acral Nevi
Three classic dermoscopic patterns are associated with acquired acral nevi: parallel furrow pattern, latticelike pattern, and fibrillar pattern.^15,21 Approximately three-quarters of all acquired acral nevi exhibit one of these patterns, roughly half exhibiting parallel furrow with tan-brown bandlike pigmentation along dermatoglyphic grooves.^16,17

Latticelike patterns also are characterized by brown parallel lines along the sulci of dermatoglyphics but additionally have multiple intersecting lines. Thus, this pattern can be considered a variant of the parallel furrow pattern.¹⁵ The crisscross markings can be predominantly found in the plantar arch.²² This dermoscopic pattern comprises 15% to 25% of all acral nevi.²¹

Fibrillar pattern accounts for 10% to 20% of all acral melanocytic nevi.²¹ Dermoscopically, these lesions demonstrate parallel filamentous streaks that cross dermatoglyphics obliquely. The fibrillar pattern is predominantly found on weight-bearing areas of the sole,²² which likely is explained by pressure causing slanting of melanin columns in the horny layer.²³ The fibrillar pattern has been shown to be the benign acral dermoscopic pattern that is most commonly misdiagnosed, with higher reported rates of biopsy.²⁴

Acral Congenital Melanocytic Nevi
Congenital melanocytic nevi (CMN) present at birth or appear during the first few weeks of life. Congenital melanocytic nevi can vary widely in size, shape, and color, and they are occasionally biopsied in cases of larger diameter or dermoscopic atypia to differentiate from melanoma.²⁵ Congenital melanocytic nevi also can occur on acral volar surfaces. Possible dermoscopic patterns include parallel furrow or fibrillar patterns as well as a crista dotted pattern, defined as evenly spaced dots/globules on the ridges near the openings of eccrine ducts.²⁶ A more commonly observed dermoscopic pattern in acral CMN is a combination of the crista dotted and parallel furrow patterns, known as the peas-in-a-pod pattern. Changes in the clinical appearance and dermoscopic features of an acral CMN are possible over time; some lesions also may fade with age.²⁶

Final Thoughts

Acral lentiginous melanoma is a rare but potentially aggressive melanoma subtype that accounts for a larger proportion of melanomas in patients with skin of color than in white patients. Dermoscopy of acral volar skin provides invaluable diagnostic information and allows for better management of acral melanocytic lesions. Dermoscopic patterns such as the parallel ridge, parallel furrow, latticelike, fibrillar, and peas-in-a-pod patterns are unique to acral sites and can be used to differentiate between ALMs, acquired nevi, or CMNs.

Acral lentiginous melanoma (ALM) is a rare subtype of melanoma that occurs on the palms, soles, and nail apparatus. Unlike more common types of melanoma, ALM occurs on sun-protected areas of the skin and has distinct clinical, histologic, and genetic features. Acral lentiginous melanoma accounts for a larger proportion of melanomas in individuals with skin of color and has a worse prognosis and recurrence rate than other forms of melanoma.

Population Trends in Skin of Color

Much of the literature on malignant melanoma historically has involved non-Hispanic white patients, but the incidence in lighter-skinned populations has been increasing steadily over the last few decades.¹ Although ALM can occur in any race, it disproportionately affects skin of color populations; ALM accounts for only 0.8% to 1% of all melanomas in white populations, but it constitutes 4% to 58% of melanomas in ethnic populations and is the most common melanoma subtype among black Americans.^2-5 Acral lentiginous melanoma also is associated with a worse prognosis compared to other subtypes, which may indicate a more aggressive biological nature⁶ but also may point toward socioeconomic and cultural barriers (eg, low income or education levels, lack of insurance, lower health literacy), leading to disparities in access to care and diagnosis at advanced stages.⁵

Similarly, the distribution of acral melanocytic nevi appears to demonstrate an association with ethnicity and skin pigmentation. Although skin of color patients have fewer nevi than non-Hispanic whites, the proportion of acral melanocytic nevi tends to be greater.^6,7 Given its grim prognosis, accurately differentiating ALM from acral nevi is of utmost importance.

Diagnostic Challenges of Acral Lesions

Due to the unique nature of the surfaces of acral sites, melanocytic lesions on the palms, soles, and nail apparatus present many diagnostic challenges. It can be difficult to distinguish acral melanoma from benign lesions using the naked eye alone. Volar surfaces are characterized by the presence of dermatoglyphics, and pigment deposition along ridges and furrows create particular dermoscopic patterns exclusive to these sites.⁸ Thus, dermoscopy can be useful on acral surfaces, but the dermoscopic features are different from those on the rest of the body and must be learned separately.

In addition, nearly half of patients are unaware of their acral lesions.⁶ Acral surfaces may not always be examined by clinicians during total-body skin examinations, leading to further possibility of overlooking a lesion. Obtaining biopsies on glabrous skin or nails also is challenging because they can be more painful and hemostasis can be more difficult, especially in the nail. Acral melanomas also may be amelanotic, including those at subungual sites. Although the overall incidence of amelanotic ALM is low, approximately 20% to 28% of amelanotic melanomas in Asian patients are located on acral sites.⁹ Due to these challenges, acral lesions may be overlooked or misdiagnosed as warts,¹⁰ tinea pedis,¹¹ or traumatic ulcers.¹²

Dermoscopic Patterns of Acral Volar Skin

Dermoscopy is a useful noninvasive tool for distinguishing between benign and malignant acral melanocytic lesions, and its efficacy in improving diagnostic accuracy and decreasing unnecessary biopsies is well-established in the literature.^13,14 Acral dermoscopy allows for visualization of pigment along the dermatoglyphics that constitute the characteristic dermoscopic patterns.

Acral Lentiginous Melanoma
The hallmark dermoscopic pattern and most important finding of ALM is the parallel ridge pattern, characterized by parallel linear pigmentation along the ridges of dermatoglyphics. In the early phases of malignancy, the pattern appears light brown and involves most of the lesion; as the tumor develops, increasing melanin production results in focal areas of the parallel ridge pattern with darker bands.^15,16 The sensitivity and specificity of a parallel ridge pattern for diagnosing early ALM has been shown to be 86% and 99%, respectively.^15,16

A pattern of irregular diffuse pigmentation also can be observed in more advanced ALM. Dermoscopy may reveal a structureless pattern (ie, lack of identifiable structures or patterns) in a background of tan-black coloration due to more exuberant melanocyte proliferation along the epidermis.¹⁵ Sensitivity and specificity of this dermoscopic finding for invasive lesions is high at 94% and 97%, respectively.^16,17 Interestingly, once ALM lesions have advanced even further, conventional melanoma-associated structures (ie, blue-white veil, polymorphous blood vessels, ulceration, irregular dots/globules or streaks) or atypical forms of typically benign acral dermoscopic patterns may be observed.¹⁵

Per a 3-step diagnostic algorithm created by Koga and Saida,¹⁸ a suspected acral lesion should first be evaluated for a parallel ridge pattern to determine the need for biopsy, as it is seen in approximately two-thirds of ALMs.¹⁹ If no parallel ridge pattern is observed, the lesion should then be checked for any of the typical dermoscopic patterns seen in benign acral nevi (eg, parallel furrow, latticelike, or fibrillar patterns).¹⁸ The maximum diameter should be measured only if the lesion does not exhibit any of the typical dermoscopic patterns. If the lesion’s diameter is greater than 7 mm in diameter, it should be biopsied; if the diameter is less than 7 mm, it should have regular clinical and dermoscopic follow-up.¹⁸

In 2015, Lallas et al²⁰ developed the BRAAFF checklist, a scoring system of 6 variables: blotches, ridge pattern, asymmetry of structures, asymmetry of colors, parallel furrow pattern, and fibrillar pattern. The checklist also was shown to substantially improve diagnostic accuracy of dermoscopy for ALM, with sensitivity and specificity at 93.1% and 86.7%, respectively.²⁰

Acquired Acral Nevi
Three classic dermoscopic patterns are associated with acquired acral nevi: parallel furrow pattern, latticelike pattern, and fibrillar pattern.^15,21 Approximately three-quarters of all acquired acral nevi exhibit one of these patterns, roughly half exhibiting parallel furrow with tan-brown bandlike pigmentation along dermatoglyphic grooves.^16,17

Latticelike patterns also are characterized by brown parallel lines along the sulci of dermatoglyphics but additionally have multiple intersecting lines. Thus, this pattern can be considered a variant of the parallel furrow pattern.¹⁵ The crisscross markings can be predominantly found in the plantar arch.²² This dermoscopic pattern comprises 15% to 25% of all acral nevi.²¹

Fibrillar pattern accounts for 10% to 20% of all acral melanocytic nevi.²¹ Dermoscopically, these lesions demonstrate parallel filamentous streaks that cross dermatoglyphics obliquely. The fibrillar pattern is predominantly found on weight-bearing areas of the sole,²² which likely is explained by pressure causing slanting of melanin columns in the horny layer.²³ The fibrillar pattern has been shown to be the benign acral dermoscopic pattern that is most commonly misdiagnosed, with higher reported rates of biopsy.²⁴

Acral Congenital Melanocytic Nevi
Congenital melanocytic nevi (CMN) present at birth or appear during the first few weeks of life. Congenital melanocytic nevi can vary widely in size, shape, and color, and they are occasionally biopsied in cases of larger diameter or dermoscopic atypia to differentiate from melanoma.²⁵ Congenital melanocytic nevi also can occur on acral volar surfaces. Possible dermoscopic patterns include parallel furrow or fibrillar patterns as well as a crista dotted pattern, defined as evenly spaced dots/globules on the ridges near the openings of eccrine ducts.²⁶ A more commonly observed dermoscopic pattern in acral CMN is a combination of the crista dotted and parallel furrow patterns, known as the peas-in-a-pod pattern. Changes in the clinical appearance and dermoscopic features of an acral CMN are possible over time; some lesions also may fade with age.²⁶

Final Thoughts

Acral lentiginous melanoma is a rare but potentially aggressive melanoma subtype that accounts for a larger proportion of melanomas in patients with skin of color than in white patients. Dermoscopy of acral volar skin provides invaluable diagnostic information and allows for better management of acral melanocytic lesions. Dermoscopic patterns such as the parallel ridge, parallel furrow, latticelike, fibrillar, and peas-in-a-pod patterns are unique to acral sites and can be used to differentiate between ALMs, acquired nevi, or CMNs.

Postnflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is an acquired hypermelanosis that can occur in children and adults following an inflammatory cutaneous disease or trauma. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation may last for months to even years. Although PIH may occur in all skin types, it is more common and presents with greater severity and intensity in individuals with skin of color. By the year 2050, 1 in 3 US residents is projected to be Hispanic.¹ It is projected that by 2044, non-Hispanic white individuals (all ages) will make up less than 50% of the US population.² Currently, the majority of the US residents younger than 18 years are minorities. The majority minority population in the United States already exists in those younger than 18 years and is predicted to occur in the adult population by 2044.²

Effective treatment options and management strategies for PIH in adults with skin of color have been described in the literature.³ Due to a paucity of research, the approach to management of PIH in children with skin of color has been based on clinical experience and lessons learned from adult patients. This article focuses on management of PIH in pediatric patients with skin of color, which includes black/African American, African-Caribbean, Hispanic, Asian, Pacific Islander, and American Indian individuals.

Underlying Inflammatory Dermatoses Resulting in PIH

There are numerous conditions that may result in PIH, including but not limited to atopic dermatitis (AD), acne, arthropod bites, and injuries to the skin. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation may have more of a psychological impact than the inciting disease or injury itself. The most important step in the approach to managing PIH is treating the underlying inflammatory condition that caused the pigmentation.

Parents/guardians may report a chief concern of dark spots, manchas (stains), blemishes, or stains on the skin, often with no mention of a coexisting inflammatory dermatosis. Parents/guardians of children with skin of color often have personally experienced PIH and may be determined to shield their children from similar angst associated with the condition. Although physicians may see just another pediatric patient with PIH, the child’s parents/guardians may see a condition that will be readily perceptible during major life events, such as the child’s prom or even his/her wedding day. Promptly diagnosing and instituting early treatment of inflammatory conditions associated with PIH may accelerate resolution and prevent worsening of the pigmentation.³

Select inflammatory dermatoses that are common in children with skin of color and may lead to PIH are highlighted below. Although this list is not comprehensive, the approach and management strategies should prompt creation of plans that keep PIH in mind when treating primary inflammatory skin diseases.

Atopic Dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis may induce PIH or hypopigmentation of the skin in children with skin of color. Developing a plan for AD flare prevention, as well as management of mild, moderate, and severe AD flares, is imperative in pediatric patients. Prevention plans should include gentle skin care, twice-daily application of emollients to the full body, and reduction of Staphylococcus aureus loads on the skin. The treatment action plan for mild to moderate flares may include topical corticosteroids, immunomodulators, and nonsteroidal agents. Treatment options for severe AD or patients who were unsuccessfully treated with other therapies may include phototherapy, biologics, and methotrexate, among others.⁴ Creating action plans for AD flares is a vital step in the prevention of PIH in patients with skin of color. Additionally, PIH should not be considered a sign of AD treatment failure.

Acne
Acne is a common skin disorder seen in patients with skin of color.⁵ A prospective observational study found that 34.3% of 683 children aged 9 to 14 years in a pediatric ambulatory clinic had acne.⁶ The number of preadolescents with acne is growing. Most cases are not associated with underlying endocrinopathy.⁷ With the growing population of children with skin of color in the United States along with the increasing childhood acne rate and subsequent inherent risk for hyperpigmentation, early acne interventions should be considered in pediatric acne patients with skin of color to reduce the impact of PIH in those at risk.

In a survey study of 313 adult acne patients with skin of color, 37.2% reported the presence of dark marks lasting 4 months or longer.⁵ Regardless of the severity of the acne, treatment should be initiated as tolerated in those with PIH. Adolescent acne patients with skin of color may develop PIH that is more severe and longer lasting than the acne itself.

The foundation for treatment of acne in adolescent skin of color patients is the same as those without skin of color, including topical retinoids, topical antibiotics, oral antibiotics, and isotretinoin when needed. Topical tretinoin, adapalene, azelaic acid, and tazarotene not only treat acne but also are a valuable part of the treatment armamentarium for PIH. Several studies in adults with skin of color have demonstrated improvement of PIH from the use of topical retinoids alone.^8-10 Despite wanting to treat the acne aggressively, special guidance should be given to prevent retinoid dermatitis, which may lead to PIH.¹⁰ Demonstrating the application of the topical acne medications, discussing how to avoid potential side effects, and giving permission to skip applications, if needed, may empower families to make adjustments between visits to limit irritation that might prompt further PIH. Incorporating α-hydroxy acid–based cleansers, α-hydroxy acid–based chemical peels, or salicylic acid chemical peels may be warranted in the setting of intense PIH. Selecting treatments that not only help the inflammatory disease leading to the PIH but also can help improve the pigmentation are preferred; however, the risks and benefits have to be weighed because many treatments that work well for PIH also may cause irritation, leading to new or worsening PIH.

Arthropod Bites
Arthropod bites cause inflamed pruritic papules and nodules, and the resulting PIH in those with darker skin types may be quite dramatic. Parents/guardians should be instructed to have a low-potency topical corticosteroid on hand to use on bites for a few days when they appear, which will not only help with the inflammation associated with the bite but also will help decrease pruritus and subsequently skin injury from scratching. In homes with pets, checking animals routinely for fleas and other infestations is helpful. In the setting of repeated arthropod bites in the spring and summer, applying bug repellant with 10% to 30% DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) on the child’s clothing and exposed body areas before playing outside or in the morning before school or camp may prevent some bites. There are DEET alternatives, such as picaridin, that may be used. Product instructions should be followed when using insect repellants in the pediatric population.¹¹

PIH Management Strategies

Gentle Skin Care Routine
There are misconceptions that areas of hyperpigmentation on the skin are caused by dirt and that scrubbing the skin harder may help to lighten the affected areas. Parents/guardians may report that the child’s skin looks dirty or, in the setting of acne, view dirt as the cause of the skin condition, which may prompt the patient to scrub the skin and the friction further worsens the PIH. Use of daily gentle cleansers and moisturizers is advised to keep the skin moisturized and free of further potential irritation and dryness that may prompt scratching or flares of the underlying condition.

Photoprotection
During the treatment course for PIH, using sun protection is helpful to prevent further darkening of the PIH areas. Sun protection may be in the form of broad-spectrum sunscreen, hats, or sun-protective clothing. Patients should be encouraged to apply sunscreen daily and to reapply every 2 hours and after water-based activities.¹² For pediatric and adolescent populations, practicing sun-protective behaviors before school or outdoor activities also should be advised, as many families only think about sun protection in the setting of sunny vacation activities. Research has demonstrated that individuals with skin of color may not realize that they can be affected by skin cancer,¹³ thus they may not have any experience selecting, applying, or regularly using sunscreens. Products that do not leave a white hue on the skin are suggested for adolescents who may be sensitive about their appearance following sunscreen application.

Skin Lightening Treatments

Although the most important therapy for PIH is to treat the underlying inflammatory conditions, some parents/guardians may desire additional options due to the extent of involvement of the PIH, its psychological impact on the child, or adverse effect on the child’s quality of life.¹⁴ In adolescents, incorporating an α-hydroxy acid–based cleanser, glycolic acid chemical peels, salicylic acid chemical peels, and topical cosmeceuticals may be warranted in the setting of intense PIH and acne. However, irritation may lead to further dyspigmentation.

Topical ammonium lactate 12% is lactic acid neutralized with ammonium hydroxide that is formulated as a lotion or a cream. It is used to hydrate dry skin and may decrease corneocyte cohesion.¹⁵ Topical ammonium lactate also has been used anecdotally for PIH on the body during periods of watchful waiting.

Topical hydroquinone, the gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation,^3,16 is not approved in children, but some parents/guardians elect to utilize hydroquinone off label to accelerate the clearing of distressing PIH in adolescents. Careful consideration including a discussion of potential risks and alternatives (eg, watchful waiting) should be highlighted.

In the setting of chronic inflammatory conditions that recur and remit, potentially irritating topical treatments should be used only during periods when symptoms of inflammation such as itching or erythema are absent.

Conclusion

Despite the best management efforts, PIH in some patients with skin of color may be present for months to years. In the pediatric skin of color population, treatment of the underlying inflammatory condition, gentle skin care, use of photoprotection, and time may be all that is needed for PIH resolution. With their parent/guardians’ consent, adolescents distressed by PIH may decide to pursue more aggressive, potentially irritating treatments. Above all, the most important management in the setting of PIH is to treat the underlying inflammatory condition causing the PIH and set reasonable expectations. For challenging cases, pediatric dermatologists with special expertise in treating pediatric and adolescent patients with skin of color may be consulted.

Postnflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is an acquired hypermelanosis that can occur in children and adults following an inflammatory cutaneous disease or trauma. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation may last for months to even years. Although PIH may occur in all skin types, it is more common and presents with greater severity and intensity in individuals with skin of color. By the year 2050, 1 in 3 US residents is projected to be Hispanic.¹ It is projected that by 2044, non-Hispanic white individuals (all ages) will make up less than 50% of the US population.² Currently, the majority of the US residents younger than 18 years are minorities. The majority minority population in the United States already exists in those younger than 18 years and is predicted to occur in the adult population by 2044.²

Effective treatment options and management strategies for PIH in adults with skin of color have been described in the literature.³ Due to a paucity of research, the approach to management of PIH in children with skin of color has been based on clinical experience and lessons learned from adult patients. This article focuses on management of PIH in pediatric patients with skin of color, which includes black/African American, African-Caribbean, Hispanic, Asian, Pacific Islander, and American Indian individuals.

Underlying Inflammatory Dermatoses Resulting in PIH

There are numerous conditions that may result in PIH, including but not limited to atopic dermatitis (AD), acne, arthropod bites, and injuries to the skin. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation may have more of a psychological impact than the inciting disease or injury itself. The most important step in the approach to managing PIH is treating the underlying inflammatory condition that caused the pigmentation.

Parents/guardians may report a chief concern of dark spots, manchas (stains), blemishes, or stains on the skin, often with no mention of a coexisting inflammatory dermatosis. Parents/guardians of children with skin of color often have personally experienced PIH and may be determined to shield their children from similar angst associated with the condition. Although physicians may see just another pediatric patient with PIH, the child’s parents/guardians may see a condition that will be readily perceptible during major life events, such as the child’s prom or even his/her wedding day. Promptly diagnosing and instituting early treatment of inflammatory conditions associated with PIH may accelerate resolution and prevent worsening of the pigmentation.³

Select inflammatory dermatoses that are common in children with skin of color and may lead to PIH are highlighted below. Although this list is not comprehensive, the approach and management strategies should prompt creation of plans that keep PIH in mind when treating primary inflammatory skin diseases.

Atopic Dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis may induce PIH or hypopigmentation of the skin in children with skin of color. Developing a plan for AD flare prevention, as well as management of mild, moderate, and severe AD flares, is imperative in pediatric patients. Prevention plans should include gentle skin care, twice-daily application of emollients to the full body, and reduction of Staphylococcus aureus loads on the skin. The treatment action plan for mild to moderate flares may include topical corticosteroids, immunomodulators, and nonsteroidal agents. Treatment options for severe AD or patients who were unsuccessfully treated with other therapies may include phototherapy, biologics, and methotrexate, among others.⁴ Creating action plans for AD flares is a vital step in the prevention of PIH in patients with skin of color. Additionally, PIH should not be considered a sign of AD treatment failure.

Acne
Acne is a common skin disorder seen in patients with skin of color.⁵ A prospective observational study found that 34.3% of 683 children aged 9 to 14 years in a pediatric ambulatory clinic had acne.⁶ The number of preadolescents with acne is growing. Most cases are not associated with underlying endocrinopathy.⁷ With the growing population of children with skin of color in the United States along with the increasing childhood acne rate and subsequent inherent risk for hyperpigmentation, early acne interventions should be considered in pediatric acne patients with skin of color to reduce the impact of PIH in those at risk.

In a survey study of 313 adult acne patients with skin of color, 37.2% reported the presence of dark marks lasting 4 months or longer.⁵ Regardless of the severity of the acne, treatment should be initiated as tolerated in those with PIH. Adolescent acne patients with skin of color may develop PIH that is more severe and longer lasting than the acne itself.

The foundation for treatment of acne in adolescent skin of color patients is the same as those without skin of color, including topical retinoids, topical antibiotics, oral antibiotics, and isotretinoin when needed. Topical tretinoin, adapalene, azelaic acid, and tazarotene not only treat acne but also are a valuable part of the treatment armamentarium for PIH. Several studies in adults with skin of color have demonstrated improvement of PIH from the use of topical retinoids alone.^8-10 Despite wanting to treat the acne aggressively, special guidance should be given to prevent retinoid dermatitis, which may lead to PIH.¹⁰ Demonstrating the application of the topical acne medications, discussing how to avoid potential side effects, and giving permission to skip applications, if needed, may empower families to make adjustments between visits to limit irritation that might prompt further PIH. Incorporating α-hydroxy acid–based cleansers, α-hydroxy acid–based chemical peels, or salicylic acid chemical peels may be warranted in the setting of intense PIH. Selecting treatments that not only help the inflammatory disease leading to the PIH but also can help improve the pigmentation are preferred; however, the risks and benefits have to be weighed because many treatments that work well for PIH also may cause irritation, leading to new or worsening PIH.

Arthropod Bites
Arthropod bites cause inflamed pruritic papules and nodules, and the resulting PIH in those with darker skin types may be quite dramatic. Parents/guardians should be instructed to have a low-potency topical corticosteroid on hand to use on bites for a few days when they appear, which will not only help with the inflammation associated with the bite but also will help decrease pruritus and subsequently skin injury from scratching. In homes with pets, checking animals routinely for fleas and other infestations is helpful. In the setting of repeated arthropod bites in the spring and summer, applying bug repellant with 10% to 30% DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) on the child’s clothing and exposed body areas before playing outside or in the morning before school or camp may prevent some bites. There are DEET alternatives, such as picaridin, that may be used. Product instructions should be followed when using insect repellants in the pediatric population.¹¹

PIH Management Strategies

Gentle Skin Care Routine
There are misconceptions that areas of hyperpigmentation on the skin are caused by dirt and that scrubbing the skin harder may help to lighten the affected areas. Parents/guardians may report that the child’s skin looks dirty or, in the setting of acne, view dirt as the cause of the skin condition, which may prompt the patient to scrub the skin and the friction further worsens the PIH. Use of daily gentle cleansers and moisturizers is advised to keep the skin moisturized and free of further potential irritation and dryness that may prompt scratching or flares of the underlying condition.

Photoprotection
During the treatment course for PIH, using sun protection is helpful to prevent further darkening of the PIH areas. Sun protection may be in the form of broad-spectrum sunscreen, hats, or sun-protective clothing. Patients should be encouraged to apply sunscreen daily and to reapply every 2 hours and after water-based activities.¹² For pediatric and adolescent populations, practicing sun-protective behaviors before school or outdoor activities also should be advised, as many families only think about sun protection in the setting of sunny vacation activities. Research has demonstrated that individuals with skin of color may not realize that they can be affected by skin cancer,¹³ thus they may not have any experience selecting, applying, or regularly using sunscreens. Products that do not leave a white hue on the skin are suggested for adolescents who may be sensitive about their appearance following sunscreen application.

Skin Lightening Treatments

Although the most important therapy for PIH is to treat the underlying inflammatory conditions, some parents/guardians may desire additional options due to the extent of involvement of the PIH, its psychological impact on the child, or adverse effect on the child’s quality of life.¹⁴ In adolescents, incorporating an α-hydroxy acid–based cleanser, glycolic acid chemical peels, salicylic acid chemical peels, and topical cosmeceuticals may be warranted in the setting of intense PIH and acne. However, irritation may lead to further dyspigmentation.

Topical ammonium lactate 12% is lactic acid neutralized with ammonium hydroxide that is formulated as a lotion or a cream. It is used to hydrate dry skin and may decrease corneocyte cohesion.¹⁵ Topical ammonium lactate also has been used anecdotally for PIH on the body during periods of watchful waiting.

Topical hydroquinone, the gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation,^3,16 is not approved in children, but some parents/guardians elect to utilize hydroquinone off label to accelerate the clearing of distressing PIH in adolescents. Careful consideration including a discussion of potential risks and alternatives (eg, watchful waiting) should be highlighted.

In the setting of chronic inflammatory conditions that recur and remit, potentially irritating topical treatments should be used only during periods when symptoms of inflammation such as itching or erythema are absent.

Conclusion

Despite the best management efforts, PIH in some patients with skin of color may be present for months to years. In the pediatric skin of color population, treatment of the underlying inflammatory condition, gentle skin care, use of photoprotection, and time may be all that is needed for PIH resolution. With their parent/guardians’ consent, adolescents distressed by PIH may decide to pursue more aggressive, potentially irritating treatments. Above all, the most important management in the setting of PIH is to treat the underlying inflammatory condition causing the PIH and set reasonable expectations. For challenging cases, pediatric dermatologists with special expertise in treating pediatric and adolescent patients with skin of color may be consulted.

Postnflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is an acquired hypermelanosis that can occur in children and adults following an inflammatory cutaneous disease or trauma. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation may last for months to even years. Although PIH may occur in all skin types, it is more common and presents with greater severity and intensity in individuals with skin of color. By the year 2050, 1 in 3 US residents is projected to be Hispanic.¹ It is projected that by 2044, non-Hispanic white individuals (all ages) will make up less than 50% of the US population.² Currently, the majority of the US residents younger than 18 years are minorities. The majority minority population in the United States already exists in those younger than 18 years and is predicted to occur in the adult population by 2044.²

Effective treatment options and management strategies for PIH in adults with skin of color have been described in the literature.³ Due to a paucity of research, the approach to management of PIH in children with skin of color has been based on clinical experience and lessons learned from adult patients. This article focuses on management of PIH in pediatric patients with skin of color, which includes black/African American, African-Caribbean, Hispanic, Asian, Pacific Islander, and American Indian individuals.

Underlying Inflammatory Dermatoses Resulting in PIH

There are numerous conditions that may result in PIH, including but not limited to atopic dermatitis (AD), acne, arthropod bites, and injuries to the skin. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation may have more of a psychological impact than the inciting disease or injury itself. The most important step in the approach to managing PIH is treating the underlying inflammatory condition that caused the pigmentation.

Parents/guardians may report a chief concern of dark spots, manchas (stains), blemishes, or stains on the skin, often with no mention of a coexisting inflammatory dermatosis. Parents/guardians of children with skin of color often have personally experienced PIH and may be determined to shield their children from similar angst associated with the condition. Although physicians may see just another pediatric patient with PIH, the child’s parents/guardians may see a condition that will be readily perceptible during major life events, such as the child’s prom or even his/her wedding day. Promptly diagnosing and instituting early treatment of inflammatory conditions associated with PIH may accelerate resolution and prevent worsening of the pigmentation.³

Select inflammatory dermatoses that are common in children with skin of color and may lead to PIH are highlighted below. Although this list is not comprehensive, the approach and management strategies should prompt creation of plans that keep PIH in mind when treating primary inflammatory skin diseases.

Atopic Dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis may induce PIH or hypopigmentation of the skin in children with skin of color. Developing a plan for AD flare prevention, as well as management of mild, moderate, and severe AD flares, is imperative in pediatric patients. Prevention plans should include gentle skin care, twice-daily application of emollients to the full body, and reduction of Staphylococcus aureus loads on the skin. The treatment action plan for mild to moderate flares may include topical corticosteroids, immunomodulators, and nonsteroidal agents. Treatment options for severe AD or patients who were unsuccessfully treated with other therapies may include phototherapy, biologics, and methotrexate, among others.⁴ Creating action plans for AD flares is a vital step in the prevention of PIH in patients with skin of color. Additionally, PIH should not be considered a sign of AD treatment failure.

Acne
Acne is a common skin disorder seen in patients with skin of color.⁵ A prospective observational study found that 34.3% of 683 children aged 9 to 14 years in a pediatric ambulatory clinic had acne.⁶ The number of preadolescents with acne is growing. Most cases are not associated with underlying endocrinopathy.⁷ With the growing population of children with skin of color in the United States along with the increasing childhood acne rate and subsequent inherent risk for hyperpigmentation, early acne interventions should be considered in pediatric acne patients with skin of color to reduce the impact of PIH in those at risk.

In a survey study of 313 adult acne patients with skin of color, 37.2% reported the presence of dark marks lasting 4 months or longer.⁵ Regardless of the severity of the acne, treatment should be initiated as tolerated in those with PIH. Adolescent acne patients with skin of color may develop PIH that is more severe and longer lasting than the acne itself.

The foundation for treatment of acne in adolescent skin of color patients is the same as those without skin of color, including topical retinoids, topical antibiotics, oral antibiotics, and isotretinoin when needed. Topical tretinoin, adapalene, azelaic acid, and tazarotene not only treat acne but also are a valuable part of the treatment armamentarium for PIH. Several studies in adults with skin of color have demonstrated improvement of PIH from the use of topical retinoids alone.^8-10 Despite wanting to treat the acne aggressively, special guidance should be given to prevent retinoid dermatitis, which may lead to PIH.¹⁰ Demonstrating the application of the topical acne medications, discussing how to avoid potential side effects, and giving permission to skip applications, if needed, may empower families to make adjustments between visits to limit irritation that might prompt further PIH. Incorporating α-hydroxy acid–based cleansers, α-hydroxy acid–based chemical peels, or salicylic acid chemical peels may be warranted in the setting of intense PIH. Selecting treatments that not only help the inflammatory disease leading to the PIH but also can help improve the pigmentation are preferred; however, the risks and benefits have to be weighed because many treatments that work well for PIH also may cause irritation, leading to new or worsening PIH.

Arthropod Bites
Arthropod bites cause inflamed pruritic papules and nodules, and the resulting PIH in those with darker skin types may be quite dramatic. Parents/guardians should be instructed to have a low-potency topical corticosteroid on hand to use on bites for a few days when they appear, which will not only help with the inflammation associated with the bite but also will help decrease pruritus and subsequently skin injury from scratching. In homes with pets, checking animals routinely for fleas and other infestations is helpful. In the setting of repeated arthropod bites in the spring and summer, applying bug repellant with 10% to 30% DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) on the child’s clothing and exposed body areas before playing outside or in the morning before school or camp may prevent some bites. There are DEET alternatives, such as picaridin, that may be used. Product instructions should be followed when using insect repellants in the pediatric population.¹¹

PIH Management Strategies

Gentle Skin Care Routine
There are misconceptions that areas of hyperpigmentation on the skin are caused by dirt and that scrubbing the skin harder may help to lighten the affected areas. Parents/guardians may report that the child’s skin looks dirty or, in the setting of acne, view dirt as the cause of the skin condition, which may prompt the patient to scrub the skin and the friction further worsens the PIH. Use of daily gentle cleansers and moisturizers is advised to keep the skin moisturized and free of further potential irritation and dryness that may prompt scratching or flares of the underlying condition.

Photoprotection
During the treatment course for PIH, using sun protection is helpful to prevent further darkening of the PIH areas. Sun protection may be in the form of broad-spectrum sunscreen, hats, or sun-protective clothing. Patients should be encouraged to apply sunscreen daily and to reapply every 2 hours and after water-based activities.¹² For pediatric and adolescent populations, practicing sun-protective behaviors before school or outdoor activities also should be advised, as many families only think about sun protection in the setting of sunny vacation activities. Research has demonstrated that individuals with skin of color may not realize that they can be affected by skin cancer,¹³ thus they may not have any experience selecting, applying, or regularly using sunscreens. Products that do not leave a white hue on the skin are suggested for adolescents who may be sensitive about their appearance following sunscreen application.

Skin Lightening Treatments

Although the most important therapy for PIH is to treat the underlying inflammatory conditions, some parents/guardians may desire additional options due to the extent of involvement of the PIH, its psychological impact on the child, or adverse effect on the child’s quality of life.¹⁴ In adolescents, incorporating an α-hydroxy acid–based cleanser, glycolic acid chemical peels, salicylic acid chemical peels, and topical cosmeceuticals may be warranted in the setting of intense PIH and acne. However, irritation may lead to further dyspigmentation.

Topical ammonium lactate 12% is lactic acid neutralized with ammonium hydroxide that is formulated as a lotion or a cream. It is used to hydrate dry skin and may decrease corneocyte cohesion.¹⁵ Topical ammonium lactate also has been used anecdotally for PIH on the body during periods of watchful waiting.

Topical hydroquinone, the gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation,^3,16 is not approved in children, but some parents/guardians elect to utilize hydroquinone off label to accelerate the clearing of distressing PIH in adolescents. Careful consideration including a discussion of potential risks and alternatives (eg, watchful waiting) should be highlighted.

In the setting of chronic inflammatory conditions that recur and remit, potentially irritating topical treatments should be used only during periods when symptoms of inflammation such as itching or erythema are absent.

Conclusion

Despite the best management efforts, PIH in some patients with skin of color may be present for months to years. In the pediatric skin of color population, treatment of the underlying inflammatory condition, gentle skin care, use of photoprotection, and time may be all that is needed for PIH resolution. With their parent/guardians’ consent, adolescents distressed by PIH may decide to pursue more aggressive, potentially irritating treatments. Above all, the most important management in the setting of PIH is to treat the underlying inflammatory condition causing the PIH and set reasonable expectations. For challenging cases, pediatric dermatologists with special expertise in treating pediatric and adolescent patients with skin of color may be consulted.

Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) has been reported in association with lichen planus pigmentosus (LPP) and facial papules.^1-3 Lichen planus pigmentosus is a variant of lichen planus that causes hyperpigmentation of the face, neck, and/or intertriginous areas that may be useful as a clinical indicator in the development of FFA.¹ Facial papules in association with FFA are secondary to fibrosed vellus hairs.^2,3 Currently, reports of concomitant FFA, LPP, and facial papules in women with skin of color are limited in the literature. This case series includes 5 women of color (Hispanic and black) who presented to our clinic with FFA and various cutaneous associations. A review of the current literature on cutaneous associations of FFA also is provided.

Case Reports

Patient 1
A 50-year-old Hispanic woman who was previously presumed to have melasma by an outside physician presented with pruritus of the scalp and eyebrows of 1 month’s duration. Physical examination revealed decreased frontal scalp hair density with perifollicular erythema and scale with thinning of the lateral eyebrows. Hyperpigmented coalesced macules (Figure 1A) and erythematous perifollicular papules were noted along the temples and on the perioral skin. Depressed forehead and temporal veins also were noted (Figure 1B). A biopsy of the scalp demonstrated perifollicular and perivascular lymphocytic inflammation and fibrosed hair follicles, and a biopsy of the perioral skin demonstrated perivascular lymphocytic inflammation with melanophages in the papillary dermis. A diagnosis of FFA with LPP was established with these biopsies.

Patient 2
A 61-year-old black woman presented with asymptomatic hair loss along the frontal hairline for an unknown duration. On physical examination the frontal scalp and lateral eyebrows demonstrated decreased hair density with loss of follicular ostia. Fine, flesh-colored, monomorphic papules were scattered along the forehead and temples, and ill-defined brown pigmentation was present along the forehead, temples, and cheeks. Biopsy of the frontal scalp demonstrated patchy lichenoid inflammation with decreased number of follicles with replacement by follicular scars, confirming the diagnosis of FFA.

Patient 3
A 47-year-old Hispanic woman presented with hair loss of the frontal scalp and bilateral eyebrows with associated burning of 2 years’ duration. Physical examination demonstrated recession of the frontotemporal hairline with scattered lone hairs and thinning of the eyebrows. Innumerable flesh-colored papules were present on the forehead and temples (Figure 2A). Glabellar and eyebrow erythema was noted (Figure 2B). Biopsy of the frontal scalp demonstrated decreased terminal anagen hair follicles with perifollicular lymphoid infiltrate and fibrosis, consistent with a diagnosis of FFA. The patient was started on oral hydroxychloroquine 400 mg once daily, and 3 months later hyperpigmentation of the forehead and perioral skin was noted. The patient reported that she had facial hyperpigmentation prior to starting hydroxychloroquine and declined a biopsy.

Patient 4
A 40-year-old black woman presented with brown pruritic macles of the face, neck, arms, and forearms of 4 years’ duration. She also reported hair loss on the frontal and occipital scalp, eyebrows, and arms. On physical examination, ill-defined brown macules and patches were noted on the neck (Figure 3), face, arms, and forearms. Decreased hair density was noted on the frontal and occipital scalp with follicular dropout and perifollicular hyperpigmentation. Biopsy of the scalp demonstrated perivascular lymphocytic inflammation with sparse anagen follicles and fibrous tracts, and biopsy of the neck revealed superficial perivascular inflammation with numerous melanophages in the upper dermis; these histopathologic findings were consistent with FFA and LPP, respectively.

Patient 5
A 46-year-old black woman with history of hair loss presented with hyperpigmentation of the face and neck of 2 years’ duration. On physical examination decreased hair density of the frontal and vertex scalp and lateral eyebrows was noted. Flesh-colored papules were noted on the forehead and cheeks, and confluent dark brown patches were present on the temples and neck. Three punch biopsies were performed. Biopsy of the scalp revealed lymphocytic inflammation with surrounding fibroplasia with overlapping features of FFA and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (Figure 4). Biopsy of the neck revealed vacuolar interface dermatitis. Additionally, biopsy of a facial papule revealed lichenoid inflammation involving a vellus hair follicle. Clinical and histopathological correlation confirmed the diagnosis of FFA with LPP and facial papules.

Comment

Current understanding of FFA as a progressive, lymphocytic, scarring alopecia has expanded in recent years. Clinical observation suggests that the incidence of FFA is increasing⁴; however more epidemiologic data are needed. Frontal fibrosing alopecia presents clinically with symmetrical frontotemporal hair loss with lone hairs. Trichoscopy reveals perifollicular hyperkeratosis, perifollicular erythema, and follicular plugging in 72%, 66%, and 44% of cases, respectively.⁵ In one study (N=242), patients were classified into 3 clinical patterns of FFA: pattern I (linear) showed bandlike loss of frontal hair with normal density directly behind the hairline; pattern II (diffuse) showed loss of density behind the frontal hairline; and pattern III (double line) showed a pseudo–“fringe sign” appearance. The majority of patients were classified as either pattern I or II, with pattern II predicting a poorer prognosis.⁶

rontal fibrosing alopecia is increasingly recognized in men, with prevalence as high as 5%.¹ Facial hair involvement, particularly of the upper lip and sideburns, is an important consideration in men.⁷ Most studies suggest that 80% to 90% of affected women are postmenopausal,⁸ though a case series presented by Dlova¹ identified 27% of affected women as postmenopausal. The coexistence of premature menopause and hysterectomy in FFA patients suggests a hormonal contribution, but this association is still poorly understood.⁸ Epidemiologic data on ethnicity in FFA are sparse but suggest that white individuals are more likely to be affected. Frontal fibrosing alopecia also may be misdiagnosed as traction alopecia in Hispanic and black patients.⁸

It is prudent for physicians to assess for and recognize clinical clues to severe forms of FFA. A 2014 multicenter review of 355 patients identified 3 clinical entities that predicted more severe forms of FFA: eyelash loss (madarosis), loss of body hair, and facial papules.⁸ Madarosis occurs due to perifollicular inflammation and fibrosis of eyelash hair follicles. Similarly, perifollicular inflammation of body hair was present in 24% of patients (N=86), most commonly of the axillary and pubic hair. Facial papules form due to facial vellus hair inflammation and fibrosis and were identified in 14% of patients (N=49).⁸ These clinical findings may allow providers to predict more extensive clinical involvement of FFA.

Frontal fibrosing alopecia and LPP occur concomitantly in up 54% of patients, more commonly in darker-skinned patients.^1,9,10 Lichen planus pigmentosus frequently occurs on the face and neck, most commonly in a diffuse pattern, though reticulated and macular patterns also have been identified.¹¹ In some patients, LPP precedes the development of FFA and may be useful as a herald sign¹; therefore, it is important for dermatologists to evaluate for signs of FFA when evaluating those with LPP. Thorough evaluation in patients with skin of color also is important because FFA may be misdiagnosed as traction alopecia.

Additional cutaneous associations of FFA include eyebrow loss, glabellar red dots, and prominent frontal veins. Eyebrow loss occurs secondary to fibrosis of eyebrow hair follicles and has been found in 40% to 80% of patients with FFA; it is thought to be associated with milder forms of FFA.⁸ Glabellar red dots correlate with histopathologic lymphocytic inflammation of vellus hair follicles.¹² Additionally, frontal vein prominence has been described in FFA and is thought to be secondary to atrophy in this scarring process, perhaps worsened by local steroid treatments.¹³ Mucocutaneous lichen planus, rosacea, thyroid disease, vitiligo, and other autoimmune disorders also have been reported in patients with FFA.¹⁴

Conclusion

Concomitant FFA, LPP, and facial papules have been rarely reported and exemplify the spectrum of cutaneous associations with FFA, particularly in individuals with skin of color. Clinical variants and associations of FFA are broad, including predictors of poorer prognosis such as eyelash loss and vellus hair involvement seen as facial papules. Lichen planus pigmentosus is well described in association with FFA and may serve as a herald sign that frontal hair loss should not be mistaken for traction alopecia in early stages. Eyebrow loss is thought to represent milder disease. It is important for dermatologists to be aware of these findings to understand the breadth of this disease and for appropriate evaluation and management of patients with FFA.

Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) has been reported in association with lichen planus pigmentosus (LPP) and facial papules.^1-3 Lichen planus pigmentosus is a variant of lichen planus that causes hyperpigmentation of the face, neck, and/or intertriginous areas that may be useful as a clinical indicator in the development of FFA.¹ Facial papules in association with FFA are secondary to fibrosed vellus hairs.^2,3 Currently, reports of concomitant FFA, LPP, and facial papules in women with skin of color are limited in the literature. This case series includes 5 women of color (Hispanic and black) who presented to our clinic with FFA and various cutaneous associations. A review of the current literature on cutaneous associations of FFA also is provided.

Case Reports

Patient 1
A 50-year-old Hispanic woman who was previously presumed to have melasma by an outside physician presented with pruritus of the scalp and eyebrows of 1 month’s duration. Physical examination revealed decreased frontal scalp hair density with perifollicular erythema and scale with thinning of the lateral eyebrows. Hyperpigmented coalesced macules (Figure 1A) and erythematous perifollicular papules were noted along the temples and on the perioral skin. Depressed forehead and temporal veins also were noted (Figure 1B). A biopsy of the scalp demonstrated perifollicular and perivascular lymphocytic inflammation and fibrosed hair follicles, and a biopsy of the perioral skin demonstrated perivascular lymphocytic inflammation with melanophages in the papillary dermis. A diagnosis of FFA with LPP was established with these biopsies.

Patient 2
A 61-year-old black woman presented with asymptomatic hair loss along the frontal hairline for an unknown duration. On physical examination the frontal scalp and lateral eyebrows demonstrated decreased hair density with loss of follicular ostia. Fine, flesh-colored, monomorphic papules were scattered along the forehead and temples, and ill-defined brown pigmentation was present along the forehead, temples, and cheeks. Biopsy of the frontal scalp demonstrated patchy lichenoid inflammation with decreased number of follicles with replacement by follicular scars, confirming the diagnosis of FFA.

Patient 3
A 47-year-old Hispanic woman presented with hair loss of the frontal scalp and bilateral eyebrows with associated burning of 2 years’ duration. Physical examination demonstrated recession of the frontotemporal hairline with scattered lone hairs and thinning of the eyebrows. Innumerable flesh-colored papules were present on the forehead and temples (Figure 2A). Glabellar and eyebrow erythema was noted (Figure 2B). Biopsy of the frontal scalp demonstrated decreased terminal anagen hair follicles with perifollicular lymphoid infiltrate and fibrosis, consistent with a diagnosis of FFA. The patient was started on oral hydroxychloroquine 400 mg once daily, and 3 months later hyperpigmentation of the forehead and perioral skin was noted. The patient reported that she had facial hyperpigmentation prior to starting hydroxychloroquine and declined a biopsy.

Patient 4
A 40-year-old black woman presented with brown pruritic macles of the face, neck, arms, and forearms of 4 years’ duration. She also reported hair loss on the frontal and occipital scalp, eyebrows, and arms. On physical examination, ill-defined brown macules and patches were noted on the neck (Figure 3), face, arms, and forearms. Decreased hair density was noted on the frontal and occipital scalp with follicular dropout and perifollicular hyperpigmentation. Biopsy of the scalp demonstrated perivascular lymphocytic inflammation with sparse anagen follicles and fibrous tracts, and biopsy of the neck revealed superficial perivascular inflammation with numerous melanophages in the upper dermis; these histopathologic findings were consistent with FFA and LPP, respectively.

Patient 5
A 46-year-old black woman with history of hair loss presented with hyperpigmentation of the face and neck of 2 years’ duration. On physical examination decreased hair density of the frontal and vertex scalp and lateral eyebrows was noted. Flesh-colored papules were noted on the forehead and cheeks, and confluent dark brown patches were present on the temples and neck. Three punch biopsies were performed. Biopsy of the scalp revealed lymphocytic inflammation with surrounding fibroplasia with overlapping features of FFA and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (Figure 4). Biopsy of the neck revealed vacuolar interface dermatitis. Additionally, biopsy of a facial papule revealed lichenoid inflammation involving a vellus hair follicle. Clinical and histopathological correlation confirmed the diagnosis of FFA with LPP and facial papules.

Comment

Current understanding of FFA as a progressive, lymphocytic, scarring alopecia has expanded in recent years. Clinical observation suggests that the incidence of FFA is increasing⁴; however more epidemiologic data are needed. Frontal fibrosing alopecia presents clinically with symmetrical frontotemporal hair loss with lone hairs. Trichoscopy reveals perifollicular hyperkeratosis, perifollicular erythema, and follicular plugging in 72%, 66%, and 44% of cases, respectively.⁵ In one study (N=242), patients were classified into 3 clinical patterns of FFA: pattern I (linear) showed bandlike loss of frontal hair with normal density directly behind the hairline; pattern II (diffuse) showed loss of density behind the frontal hairline; and pattern III (double line) showed a pseudo–“fringe sign” appearance. The majority of patients were classified as either pattern I or II, with pattern II predicting a poorer prognosis.⁶

rontal fibrosing alopecia is increasingly recognized in men, with prevalence as high as 5%.¹ Facial hair involvement, particularly of the upper lip and sideburns, is an important consideration in men.⁷ Most studies suggest that 80% to 90% of affected women are postmenopausal,⁸ though a case series presented by Dlova¹ identified 27% of affected women as postmenopausal. The coexistence of premature menopause and hysterectomy in FFA patients suggests a hormonal contribution, but this association is still poorly understood.⁸ Epidemiologic data on ethnicity in FFA are sparse but suggest that white individuals are more likely to be affected. Frontal fibrosing alopecia also may be misdiagnosed as traction alopecia in Hispanic and black patients.⁸

It is prudent for physicians to assess for and recognize clinical clues to severe forms of FFA. A 2014 multicenter review of 355 patients identified 3 clinical entities that predicted more severe forms of FFA: eyelash loss (madarosis), loss of body hair, and facial papules.⁸ Madarosis occurs due to perifollicular inflammation and fibrosis of eyelash hair follicles. Similarly, perifollicular inflammation of body hair was present in 24% of patients (N=86), most commonly of the axillary and pubic hair. Facial papules form due to facial vellus hair inflammation and fibrosis and were identified in 14% of patients (N=49).⁸ These clinical findings may allow providers to predict more extensive clinical involvement of FFA.

Frontal fibrosing alopecia and LPP occur concomitantly in up 54% of patients, more commonly in darker-skinned patients.^1,9,10 Lichen planus pigmentosus frequently occurs on the face and neck, most commonly in a diffuse pattern, though reticulated and macular patterns also have been identified.¹¹ In some patients, LPP precedes the development of FFA and may be useful as a herald sign¹; therefore, it is important for dermatologists to evaluate for signs of FFA when evaluating those with LPP. Thorough evaluation in patients with skin of color also is important because FFA may be misdiagnosed as traction alopecia.

Additional cutaneous associations of FFA include eyebrow loss, glabellar red dots, and prominent frontal veins. Eyebrow loss occurs secondary to fibrosis of eyebrow hair follicles and has been found in 40% to 80% of patients with FFA; it is thought to be associated with milder forms of FFA.⁸ Glabellar red dots correlate with histopathologic lymphocytic inflammation of vellus hair follicles.¹² Additionally, frontal vein prominence has been described in FFA and is thought to be secondary to atrophy in this scarring process, perhaps worsened by local steroid treatments.¹³ Mucocutaneous lichen planus, rosacea, thyroid disease, vitiligo, and other autoimmune disorders also have been reported in patients with FFA.¹⁴

Conclusion

Concomitant FFA, LPP, and facial papules have been rarely reported and exemplify the spectrum of cutaneous associations with FFA, particularly in individuals with skin of color. Clinical variants and associations of FFA are broad, including predictors of poorer prognosis such as eyelash loss and vellus hair involvement seen as facial papules. Lichen planus pigmentosus is well described in association with FFA and may serve as a herald sign that frontal hair loss should not be mistaken for traction alopecia in early stages. Eyebrow loss is thought to represent milder disease. It is important for dermatologists to be aware of these findings to understand the breadth of this disease and for appropriate evaluation and management of patients with FFA.

Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) has been reported in association with lichen planus pigmentosus (LPP) and facial papules.^1-3 Lichen planus pigmentosus is a variant of lichen planus that causes hyperpigmentation of the face, neck, and/or intertriginous areas that may be useful as a clinical indicator in the development of FFA.¹ Facial papules in association with FFA are secondary to fibrosed vellus hairs.^2,3 Currently, reports of concomitant FFA, LPP, and facial papules in women with skin of color are limited in the literature. This case series includes 5 women of color (Hispanic and black) who presented to our clinic with FFA and various cutaneous associations. A review of the current literature on cutaneous associations of FFA also is provided.

Case Reports

Patient 1
A 50-year-old Hispanic woman who was previously presumed to have melasma by an outside physician presented with pruritus of the scalp and eyebrows of 1 month’s duration. Physical examination revealed decreased frontal scalp hair density with perifollicular erythema and scale with thinning of the lateral eyebrows. Hyperpigmented coalesced macules (Figure 1A) and erythematous perifollicular papules were noted along the temples and on the perioral skin. Depressed forehead and temporal veins also were noted (Figure 1B). A biopsy of the scalp demonstrated perifollicular and perivascular lymphocytic inflammation and fibrosed hair follicles, and a biopsy of the perioral skin demonstrated perivascular lymphocytic inflammation with melanophages in the papillary dermis. A diagnosis of FFA with LPP was established with these biopsies.

Patient 2
A 61-year-old black woman presented with asymptomatic hair loss along the frontal hairline for an unknown duration. On physical examination the frontal scalp and lateral eyebrows demonstrated decreased hair density with loss of follicular ostia. Fine, flesh-colored, monomorphic papules were scattered along the forehead and temples, and ill-defined brown pigmentation was present along the forehead, temples, and cheeks. Biopsy of the frontal scalp demonstrated patchy lichenoid inflammation with decreased number of follicles with replacement by follicular scars, confirming the diagnosis of FFA.

Patient 3
A 47-year-old Hispanic woman presented with hair loss of the frontal scalp and bilateral eyebrows with associated burning of 2 years’ duration. Physical examination demonstrated recession of the frontotemporal hairline with scattered lone hairs and thinning of the eyebrows. Innumerable flesh-colored papules were present on the forehead and temples (Figure 2A). Glabellar and eyebrow erythema was noted (Figure 2B). Biopsy of the frontal scalp demonstrated decreased terminal anagen hair follicles with perifollicular lymphoid infiltrate and fibrosis, consistent with a diagnosis of FFA. The patient was started on oral hydroxychloroquine 400 mg once daily, and 3 months later hyperpigmentation of the forehead and perioral skin was noted. The patient reported that she had facial hyperpigmentation prior to starting hydroxychloroquine and declined a biopsy.

Patient 4
A 40-year-old black woman presented with brown pruritic macles of the face, neck, arms, and forearms of 4 years’ duration. She also reported hair loss on the frontal and occipital scalp, eyebrows, and arms. On physical examination, ill-defined brown macules and patches were noted on the neck (Figure 3), face, arms, and forearms. Decreased hair density was noted on the frontal and occipital scalp with follicular dropout and perifollicular hyperpigmentation. Biopsy of the scalp demonstrated perivascular lymphocytic inflammation with sparse anagen follicles and fibrous tracts, and biopsy of the neck revealed superficial perivascular inflammation with numerous melanophages in the upper dermis; these histopathologic findings were consistent with FFA and LPP, respectively.

Patient 5
A 46-year-old black woman with history of hair loss presented with hyperpigmentation of the face and neck of 2 years’ duration. On physical examination decreased hair density of the frontal and vertex scalp and lateral eyebrows was noted. Flesh-colored papules were noted on the forehead and cheeks, and confluent dark brown patches were present on the temples and neck. Three punch biopsies were performed. Biopsy of the scalp revealed lymphocytic inflammation with surrounding fibroplasia with overlapping features of FFA and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (Figure 4). Biopsy of the neck revealed vacuolar interface dermatitis. Additionally, biopsy of a facial papule revealed lichenoid inflammation involving a vellus hair follicle. Clinical and histopathological correlation confirmed the diagnosis of FFA with LPP and facial papules.

Comment

Current understanding of FFA as a progressive, lymphocytic, scarring alopecia has expanded in recent years. Clinical observation suggests that the incidence of FFA is increasing⁴; however more epidemiologic data are needed. Frontal fibrosing alopecia presents clinically with symmetrical frontotemporal hair loss with lone hairs. Trichoscopy reveals perifollicular hyperkeratosis, perifollicular erythema, and follicular plugging in 72%, 66%, and 44% of cases, respectively.⁵ In one study (N=242), patients were classified into 3 clinical patterns of FFA: pattern I (linear) showed bandlike loss of frontal hair with normal density directly behind the hairline; pattern II (diffuse) showed loss of density behind the frontal hairline; and pattern III (double line) showed a pseudo–“fringe sign” appearance. The majority of patients were classified as either pattern I or II, with pattern II predicting a poorer prognosis.⁶

rontal fibrosing alopecia is increasingly recognized in men, with prevalence as high as 5%.¹ Facial hair involvement, particularly of the upper lip and sideburns, is an important consideration in men.⁷ Most studies suggest that 80% to 90% of affected women are postmenopausal,⁸ though a case series presented by Dlova¹ identified 27% of affected women as postmenopausal. The coexistence of premature menopause and hysterectomy in FFA patients suggests a hormonal contribution, but this association is still poorly understood.⁸ Epidemiologic data on ethnicity in FFA are sparse but suggest that white individuals are more likely to be affected. Frontal fibrosing alopecia also may be misdiagnosed as traction alopecia in Hispanic and black patients.⁸

It is prudent for physicians to assess for and recognize clinical clues to severe forms of FFA. A 2014 multicenter review of 355 patients identified 3 clinical entities that predicted more severe forms of FFA: eyelash loss (madarosis), loss of body hair, and facial papules.⁸ Madarosis occurs due to perifollicular inflammation and fibrosis of eyelash hair follicles. Similarly, perifollicular inflammation of body hair was present in 24% of patients (N=86), most commonly of the axillary and pubic hair. Facial papules form due to facial vellus hair inflammation and fibrosis and were identified in 14% of patients (N=49).⁸ These clinical findings may allow providers to predict more extensive clinical involvement of FFA.

Frontal fibrosing alopecia and LPP occur concomitantly in up 54% of patients, more commonly in darker-skinned patients.^1,9,10 Lichen planus pigmentosus frequently occurs on the face and neck, most commonly in a diffuse pattern, though reticulated and macular patterns also have been identified.¹¹ In some patients, LPP precedes the development of FFA and may be useful as a herald sign¹; therefore, it is important for dermatologists to evaluate for signs of FFA when evaluating those with LPP. Thorough evaluation in patients with skin of color also is important because FFA may be misdiagnosed as traction alopecia.

Additional cutaneous associations of FFA include eyebrow loss, glabellar red dots, and prominent frontal veins. Eyebrow loss occurs secondary to fibrosis of eyebrow hair follicles and has been found in 40% to 80% of patients with FFA; it is thought to be associated with milder forms of FFA.⁸ Glabellar red dots correlate with histopathologic lymphocytic inflammation of vellus hair follicles.¹² Additionally, frontal vein prominence has been described in FFA and is thought to be secondary to atrophy in this scarring process, perhaps worsened by local steroid treatments.¹³ Mucocutaneous lichen planus, rosacea, thyroid disease, vitiligo, and other autoimmune disorders also have been reported in patients with FFA.¹⁴

Conclusion

Concomitant FFA, LPP, and facial papules have been rarely reported and exemplify the spectrum of cutaneous associations with FFA, particularly in individuals with skin of color. Clinical variants and associations of FFA are broad, including predictors of poorer prognosis such as eyelash loss and vellus hair involvement seen as facial papules. Lichen planus pigmentosus is well described in association with FFA and may serve as a herald sign that frontal hair loss should not be mistaken for traction alopecia in early stages. Eyebrow loss is thought to represent milder disease. It is important for dermatologists to be aware of these findings to understand the breadth of this disease and for appropriate evaluation and management of patients with FFA.

Hidradenitis suppurativa (HS) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that has a social and psychosocial impact on patients with skin of color.¹ It is characterized by recurrent abscesses, draining sinus tracts, and scarring in the intertriginous skin folds. The lesions are difficult to treat and present with considerable frustration for both patients and physicians. Although current treatment ladders can delay procedures and surgical intervention,¹ some believe that surgery should be introduced earlier in HS management.² In this article, we review current procedures for the management of HS, including cryoinsufflation, incision and drainage, deroofing, skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling, and wide surgical excision, along with various closure techniques.

Cryoinsufflation

First described in 2014, cryoinsufflation is a novel method for treating sinus tracts.³ Lesions initially are identified on physical examination. Prior to the procedure, local anesthesia is administered to the lesion.³ A 21-gauge needle is mounted onto a cryosurgical unit and inserted into the opening of the sinus tract. Liquid nitrogen is sprayed into the tract for 5 seconds, followed by a 3-second pause; the process is repeated 3 times. Patients return for treatment sessions monthly until the tract is obliterated. This procedure was first performed on 2 patients with satisfactory results.³

Since the initial report, the investigators made 2 changes to refine the procedure.⁴ First, systemic antibiotics should be prescribed 2 months prior to the procedure to clear the sinus tracts of infection. Furthermore, a 21-gauge, olive-tipped cannula is recommended in lieu of a 21-gauge needle to mitigate the risk of adverse events such as air embolism.⁴

Incision and Drainage

Incision and drainage provides rapid pain relief for tense fluctuant abscesses, but recurrence is common and the procedure costs are high.⁵ For drainage, wide circumferential local anesthesia is administered followed by incision.⁶ Pus is eliminated using digital pressure or saline rinses.² Following the elimination of pus, the wound may need gauze packing or placement of a wick for a few days.⁶ The general belief is that incision and drainage should be used, if necessary, to rapidly relieve the patient’s pain; however, other surgical options should be considered if the patient has had multiple incision and drainage procedures.⁷ Currently there are no randomized controlled trials (RCTs) on incision and drainage procedures in HS abscesses.

Deroofing

In 1959, Mullins et al⁸ first described the deroofing procedure, which was refined to preserve the floor of the sinus tract in the 1980s.^9,10 Culp¹⁰ and Brown et al⁹ theorized that preservation of the exposed floor of the sinus tract allowed for the epithelial cells from sweat glands and hair follicle remnants to rapidly reepithelialize the wound. In 2010, van der Zee et al¹¹ performed a prospective study of 88 deroofed lesions in which the investigators removed keratinous debris and epithelial remnants of the floor due to concern for recurrence in this area if the tissues remained. Only 17% (15/88) of the lesions recurred at a median follow-up of 34 months.¹¹

In Hurley stage I or II HS, deroofing remains the primary procedure for persistent nodules and sinus tracts.² The lesion is identified on physical examination and local anesthesia is administered, first to the area surrounding the lesion, then to the lesion itself.¹¹ A blunt probe is used to identify openings and search for connecting fistulas. After defining the sinus tract, the roof and wings created by the incision are removed.^11,12 The material on the floor of the tract is scraped away, and the wound is left to heal by secondary intention.¹¹ In general, deroofed lesions heal with cosmetically acceptable scars. We have used this procedure in skin of color patients with good results and no difficulties with healing. Controlled trials with long-term follow-up are lacking in this population.

Skin Tissue–Saving Excision With Electrosurgical Peeling

Skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling was first introduced in 2015.¹³ Blok et al¹⁴ described the procedure as a promising alternative to wide surgical excision for Hurley stage II or III HS. The procedure saves healthy tissue while completely removing lesional tissue, leading to rapid wound healing, excellent cosmesis, and a low risk of contractures^2,14; however, recurrence rates are higher than those seen in wide surgical excision.¹⁵ There are no known RCTs with long-term follow-up for HS patients treated with skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling.

The procedure typically is performed under general anesthesia.¹⁴ First, the sinus tract is palpated on physical examination and probed to delineate the extent of the tract. Next, the roof of the tract is incised electrosurgically with a wire loop tip coupled to an electrosurgical generator.¹⁴ Consecutive tangential excisions are made until the floor of the sinus tract is reached. The process of incising sinus tracts followed by tangential peeling off of tissue continues until the entire area is clear of lesional and fibrotic tissue. The wound margins are probed for the presence and subsequent removal of residual sinus tracts. Lastly, the electrosurgical generator is used to achieve hemostasis, steroids are injected to prevent the formation of hypergranulation tissue, and the wound is left to heal by secondary intention.¹⁴ Following intervention, recurrence rates appear to be similar to wide surgical excision.^13,14

Wide Surgical Excision

Wide excision is a widely established technique consisting of surgical excision of a lesion plus an area of surrounding disease-free tissue such as subcutaneous fat or a lateral margin of intertriginous skin.¹⁵ Similar to other surgical techniques, wide excision is considered in cases of severe disease when pharmacologic management cannot remedy extensive fibrosis or architectural loss. It typically is performed in Hurley stage II and III HS, with pathology extending to involve deeper structures inaccessible to more superficial surgical methods.² Prominent areas of use include gluteal, axillary, perineal, and perianal HS lesions on which conservative treatments have little effect and depend on wide excision to provide successful postoperative results.¹⁶ Although retrospective and prospective studies exist on wide excision in HS, there continues to be a dearth of RCTs. Based on the available literature, the primary motive for wide excision is lower recurrence rates (13% overall compared to 22% and 27% for local excision and deroofing, respectively) and longer asymptomatic periods compared to more local techniques.^7,17 Wide excision combined with continued aggressive medical management and dietary modifications currently is an efficacious treatment in providing functional long-term results.⁶ These benefits, however, are not without their drawbacks, as the more extensive nature of wide surgical excision predisposes patients to larger wounds, surgery-induced infection, and prolonged recovery periods.^6,15 If preoperative measurements are not wisely assessed, the excision also can extend to involve neurovascular bundles and other vital structures, contributing to greater postoperative morbidity.¹⁵ Ultrasonography provides useful anatomic information in HS, such as location and extent of fistulous tracts and fluid collections; these findings can assist in guiding the width and depth of the excision itself to ensure the entire area of HS involvement is removed.¹⁸ Published data revealed that 204 of 255 (80%) patients were markedly satisfied with postoperative outcomes of wide excision,¹⁹ which gives credence to the idea that although the complications of wide excision may not be as favorable, the long-lasting improvements in quality of life make wide surgical excision a suggested first-line treatment in all stages of HS.^16,20

Closure Techniques

The best skin closure method following surgical excision is controversial and not well established in literature. Options include healing by secondary intention, primary (suture-based) closure, skin grafts, and skin flaps. Each of these methods has had moderate success in multiple observational studies, and the choice should be made based on individualized assessment of the patient’s HS lesion characteristics, ability to adhere to recovery protocols, and relevant demographics. A systematic review by Mehdizadeh et al¹⁷ provided the following recurrence rates for techniques utilized after wide excision: primary closure, 15%; flaps, 8%; and grafting, 6%. Despite conflicting evidence, allowing wounds to heal by secondary intention is best, based on the author’s experience (I.H.H.).

Secondary Intention
Healing by secondary intention refers to a wound that is intentionally left open to be filled in with granulation tissue and eventual epithelization over time rather than being approximated and closed via sutures or staples as in primary intention. It is a well-established option in wound management and results in a longer but more comfortable period of convalescence in postsurgical HS management.²⁰ Patients can add regular moist wound dressings (eg, silastic foam dressing) to manage the wound at home and continue normal activities for most of the healing period; however, the recovery period can become excessively long and painful, and there is a high risk of formation of retractile scar bands at and around the healing site.¹² Strict adherence to wound-healing protocols is paramount to minimizing unwanted complications.²¹ Secondary intention often is used after wide local excision and has been demonstrated to yield positive functional and aesthetic results in multiple studies, especially in the more severe Hurley stage II or III cases.^21,22 It can be successfully employed after laser treatment and in surgical defects of all sizes with little to no contractures or reduced range of motion.⁶ Ultimately, the choice to heal via secondary intention should be made after thorough assessment of patient needs and with ample education to ensure compliance.

Primary Closure
Primary closure is the suture-mediated closing technique that is most often used in wound closure for lower-grade HS cases, especially smaller excisions. However, it is associated with potential complications. If HS lesions are not effectively excised, disease can then recur at the periphery of the excision and wound dehiscence can manifest more readily, especially as wound size increases.²³ Consequently, primary closure is associated with the highest recurrence rates among closure techniques.¹⁷ Avoiding primary closure in active disease also is recommended due to the potential of burying residual foci of inflammation.⁶ Finally, primary closures lack skin coverage and thus often are not viable options in most perianal and genital lesions that require more extensive reconstruction. Retrospective case series and case reports exist on primary excision, but further study is needed.

Skin Grafts
Skin grafting is a technique of surgically transplanting a piece of healthy skin from one body site to another. Skin grafts typically are used when primary closure or skin flaps are not feasible (eg, in large wounds) and also when shorter time to wound closure is a greater concern in patient recovery.^2,24 Additionally, skin grafts can be employed on large flat surfaces of the body, such as the buttocks or thighs, for timely wound closure when wound contraction is less effective or wound healing is slow via epithelization. Types of skin graft techniques include split-thickness skin graft (STSG), full-thickness skin graft, and recycled skin graft. All 3 types have demonstrated acceptable functional and aesthetic results in observational studies and case reports, and thus deciding which technique to use should include individualized assessment.^2,25 The STSG has several advantages over the full-thickness skin graft, including hairlessness (ie, without hair follicles), ease of harvest, and a less complicated transfer to contaminated lesional areas such as those in HS.²⁶ Additionally, STSGs allow for closure of even the largest wounds with minimal risk of serious infection. Split-thickness skin grafts are considered one of the most efficacious tools for axilla reconstruction; however, they require prolonged immobilization of the arm, result in sequelae in donor sites, and do not always prevent retractile scars.²⁶ The recycled skin graft technique can be used to treat chronic gluteal HS, but reliability and outcomes have not been reported. Skin grafting after excision is associated with increased pain, immobilization, prolonged hospitalization, and longer healing times compared to skin flaps.¹⁹ In a systematic review of wound healing techniques following wide excision, grafting was shown to have the lowest recurrence rate (6%) compared to skin flaps (8%) and primary closure (15%).¹⁷ The absence of hair follicles and sweat glands in STSGs may be advantageous in HS because both hair follicles and sweat glands are thought to play more roles in the pathogenesis of HS.^18,24 Most studies on skin grafts are limited to case reports.

Skin Flaps
Skin flaps are similar to skin grafts in that healthy skin is transplanted from one site to another; the difference is that flaps maintain an intact blood supply, whereas skin grafts depend on growth of new blood vessels.^12,13 The primary advantage of skin flaps is that they provide the best quality of skin due to the thick tissue coverage, which is an important concern, especially in aesthetic scenarios. Additionally, they have been shown to provide shorter healing times than grafts, primary closure, and secondary healing, which can be especially important when functional disability is a concern in the postoperative period.²⁶ However, their use should be limited due to several complications owing to their blood supply, as there is a high risk of ischemia to distant portions of flaps, which often can progress to necrosis and hemorrhage during the harvesting process.² Thus, skin flaps are incredibly difficult to use in larger wounds and often require debulking due to their thickness. Additionally, skin flaps are definitive by nature, which can pose an issue if HS recurs locally. Skin flaps are recommended only when their use is mandatory, such as in the coverage of important anatomic structures (eg, exposed neurovascular bundles and large vessels).² Advances have been made in flap construction, and now several types of flaps are employed in several body areas with differing indications and recommendations.^2,21 As with skin grafts, most studies in the literature are case reports; therefore, further investigation is needed.

Combination Reconstructions
Combination reconstructions refer to the simultaneous use of multiple closure or healing techniques. By combining 2 or more methods, surgeons can utilize the advantages of each technique to provide an individualized approach that can substantially diminish wound surface area and accelerate wound healing.² For example, with the starlike technique, 5 equilateral triangles bordering a foci of axillary disease are excised in addition to the central foci, and the edges of each triangle are then sutured together to create a final scar of considerably smaller size. The starlike technique allows the wound to be partially sutured while leaving the remaining area to heal by secondary intention.² There are a small number of case series and prospective studies on combined reconstructions in HS but no RCTs.

Conclusion

Many procedures exist as options for treatment of patients with HS. Deroofing and cryoinsufflation are options for localized Hurley stage I or II disease. For more severe Hurley stage II or III disease, skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling or wide surgical excisions are preferred. Following excision, there are many options for wound closure, but our preference is to allow the wound to heal by secondary intention. It is imperative that dermatologists are informed on the different techniques for treating this disease to determine the best route of care for their patients.

Hidradenitis suppurativa (HS) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that has a social and psychosocial impact on patients with skin of color.¹ It is characterized by recurrent abscesses, draining sinus tracts, and scarring in the intertriginous skin folds. The lesions are difficult to treat and present with considerable frustration for both patients and physicians. Although current treatment ladders can delay procedures and surgical intervention,¹ some believe that surgery should be introduced earlier in HS management.² In this article, we review current procedures for the management of HS, including cryoinsufflation, incision and drainage, deroofing, skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling, and wide surgical excision, along with various closure techniques.

Cryoinsufflation

First described in 2014, cryoinsufflation is a novel method for treating sinus tracts.³ Lesions initially are identified on physical examination. Prior to the procedure, local anesthesia is administered to the lesion.³ A 21-gauge needle is mounted onto a cryosurgical unit and inserted into the opening of the sinus tract. Liquid nitrogen is sprayed into the tract for 5 seconds, followed by a 3-second pause; the process is repeated 3 times. Patients return for treatment sessions monthly until the tract is obliterated. This procedure was first performed on 2 patients with satisfactory results.³

Since the initial report, the investigators made 2 changes to refine the procedure.⁴ First, systemic antibiotics should be prescribed 2 months prior to the procedure to clear the sinus tracts of infection. Furthermore, a 21-gauge, olive-tipped cannula is recommended in lieu of a 21-gauge needle to mitigate the risk of adverse events such as air embolism.⁴

Incision and Drainage

Incision and drainage provides rapid pain relief for tense fluctuant abscesses, but recurrence is common and the procedure costs are high.⁵ For drainage, wide circumferential local anesthesia is administered followed by incision.⁶ Pus is eliminated using digital pressure or saline rinses.² Following the elimination of pus, the wound may need gauze packing or placement of a wick for a few days.⁶ The general belief is that incision and drainage should be used, if necessary, to rapidly relieve the patient’s pain; however, other surgical options should be considered if the patient has had multiple incision and drainage procedures.⁷ Currently there are no randomized controlled trials (RCTs) on incision and drainage procedures in HS abscesses.

Deroofing

In 1959, Mullins et al⁸ first described the deroofing procedure, which was refined to preserve the floor of the sinus tract in the 1980s.^9,10 Culp¹⁰ and Brown et al⁹ theorized that preservation of the exposed floor of the sinus tract allowed for the epithelial cells from sweat glands and hair follicle remnants to rapidly reepithelialize the wound. In 2010, van der Zee et al¹¹ performed a prospective study of 88 deroofed lesions in which the investigators removed keratinous debris and epithelial remnants of the floor due to concern for recurrence in this area if the tissues remained. Only 17% (15/88) of the lesions recurred at a median follow-up of 34 months.¹¹

In Hurley stage I or II HS, deroofing remains the primary procedure for persistent nodules and sinus tracts.² The lesion is identified on physical examination and local anesthesia is administered, first to the area surrounding the lesion, then to the lesion itself.¹¹ A blunt probe is used to identify openings and search for connecting fistulas. After defining the sinus tract, the roof and wings created by the incision are removed.^11,12 The material on the floor of the tract is scraped away, and the wound is left to heal by secondary intention.¹¹ In general, deroofed lesions heal with cosmetically acceptable scars. We have used this procedure in skin of color patients with good results and no difficulties with healing. Controlled trials with long-term follow-up are lacking in this population.

Skin Tissue–Saving Excision With Electrosurgical Peeling

Skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling was first introduced in 2015.¹³ Blok et al¹⁴ described the procedure as a promising alternative to wide surgical excision for Hurley stage II or III HS. The procedure saves healthy tissue while completely removing lesional tissue, leading to rapid wound healing, excellent cosmesis, and a low risk of contractures^2,14; however, recurrence rates are higher than those seen in wide surgical excision.¹⁵ There are no known RCTs with long-term follow-up for HS patients treated with skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling.

The procedure typically is performed under general anesthesia.¹⁴ First, the sinus tract is palpated on physical examination and probed to delineate the extent of the tract. Next, the roof of the tract is incised electrosurgically with a wire loop tip coupled to an electrosurgical generator.¹⁴ Consecutive tangential excisions are made until the floor of the sinus tract is reached. The process of incising sinus tracts followed by tangential peeling off of tissue continues until the entire area is clear of lesional and fibrotic tissue. The wound margins are probed for the presence and subsequent removal of residual sinus tracts. Lastly, the electrosurgical generator is used to achieve hemostasis, steroids are injected to prevent the formation of hypergranulation tissue, and the wound is left to heal by secondary intention.¹⁴ Following intervention, recurrence rates appear to be similar to wide surgical excision.^13,14

Wide Surgical Excision

Wide excision is a widely established technique consisting of surgical excision of a lesion plus an area of surrounding disease-free tissue such as subcutaneous fat or a lateral margin of intertriginous skin.¹⁵ Similar to other surgical techniques, wide excision is considered in cases of severe disease when pharmacologic management cannot remedy extensive fibrosis or architectural loss. It typically is performed in Hurley stage II and III HS, with pathology extending to involve deeper structures inaccessible to more superficial surgical methods.² Prominent areas of use include gluteal, axillary, perineal, and perianal HS lesions on which conservative treatments have little effect and depend on wide excision to provide successful postoperative results.¹⁶ Although retrospective and prospective studies exist on wide excision in HS, there continues to be a dearth of RCTs. Based on the available literature, the primary motive for wide excision is lower recurrence rates (13% overall compared to 22% and 27% for local excision and deroofing, respectively) and longer asymptomatic periods compared to more local techniques.^7,17 Wide excision combined with continued aggressive medical management and dietary modifications currently is an efficacious treatment in providing functional long-term results.⁶ These benefits, however, are not without their drawbacks, as the more extensive nature of wide surgical excision predisposes patients to larger wounds, surgery-induced infection, and prolonged recovery periods.^6,15 If preoperative measurements are not wisely assessed, the excision also can extend to involve neurovascular bundles and other vital structures, contributing to greater postoperative morbidity.¹⁵ Ultrasonography provides useful anatomic information in HS, such as location and extent of fistulous tracts and fluid collections; these findings can assist in guiding the width and depth of the excision itself to ensure the entire area of HS involvement is removed.¹⁸ Published data revealed that 204 of 255 (80%) patients were markedly satisfied with postoperative outcomes of wide excision,¹⁹ which gives credence to the idea that although the complications of wide excision may not be as favorable, the long-lasting improvements in quality of life make wide surgical excision a suggested first-line treatment in all stages of HS.^16,20

Closure Techniques

The best skin closure method following surgical excision is controversial and not well established in literature. Options include healing by secondary intention, primary (suture-based) closure, skin grafts, and skin flaps. Each of these methods has had moderate success in multiple observational studies, and the choice should be made based on individualized assessment of the patient’s HS lesion characteristics, ability to adhere to recovery protocols, and relevant demographics. A systematic review by Mehdizadeh et al¹⁷ provided the following recurrence rates for techniques utilized after wide excision: primary closure, 15%; flaps, 8%; and grafting, 6%. Despite conflicting evidence, allowing wounds to heal by secondary intention is best, based on the author’s experience (I.H.H.).

Secondary Intention
Healing by secondary intention refers to a wound that is intentionally left open to be filled in with granulation tissue and eventual epithelization over time rather than being approximated and closed via sutures or staples as in primary intention. It is a well-established option in wound management and results in a longer but more comfortable period of convalescence in postsurgical HS management.²⁰ Patients can add regular moist wound dressings (eg, silastic foam dressing) to manage the wound at home and continue normal activities for most of the healing period; however, the recovery period can become excessively long and painful, and there is a high risk of formation of retractile scar bands at and around the healing site.¹² Strict adherence to wound-healing protocols is paramount to minimizing unwanted complications.²¹ Secondary intention often is used after wide local excision and has been demonstrated to yield positive functional and aesthetic results in multiple studies, especially in the more severe Hurley stage II or III cases.^21,22 It can be successfully employed after laser treatment and in surgical defects of all sizes with little to no contractures or reduced range of motion.⁶ Ultimately, the choice to heal via secondary intention should be made after thorough assessment of patient needs and with ample education to ensure compliance.

Primary Closure
Primary closure is the suture-mediated closing technique that is most often used in wound closure for lower-grade HS cases, especially smaller excisions. However, it is associated with potential complications. If HS lesions are not effectively excised, disease can then recur at the periphery of the excision and wound dehiscence can manifest more readily, especially as wound size increases.²³ Consequently, primary closure is associated with the highest recurrence rates among closure techniques.¹⁷ Avoiding primary closure in active disease also is recommended due to the potential of burying residual foci of inflammation.⁶ Finally, primary closures lack skin coverage and thus often are not viable options in most perianal and genital lesions that require more extensive reconstruction. Retrospective case series and case reports exist on primary excision, but further study is needed.

Skin Grafts
Skin grafting is a technique of surgically transplanting a piece of healthy skin from one body site to another. Skin grafts typically are used when primary closure or skin flaps are not feasible (eg, in large wounds) and also when shorter time to wound closure is a greater concern in patient recovery.^2,24 Additionally, skin grafts can be employed on large flat surfaces of the body, such as the buttocks or thighs, for timely wound closure when wound contraction is less effective or wound healing is slow via epithelization. Types of skin graft techniques include split-thickness skin graft (STSG), full-thickness skin graft, and recycled skin graft. All 3 types have demonstrated acceptable functional and aesthetic results in observational studies and case reports, and thus deciding which technique to use should include individualized assessment.^2,25 The STSG has several advantages over the full-thickness skin graft, including hairlessness (ie, without hair follicles), ease of harvest, and a less complicated transfer to contaminated lesional areas such as those in HS.²⁶ Additionally, STSGs allow for closure of even the largest wounds with minimal risk of serious infection. Split-thickness skin grafts are considered one of the most efficacious tools for axilla reconstruction; however, they require prolonged immobilization of the arm, result in sequelae in donor sites, and do not always prevent retractile scars.²⁶ The recycled skin graft technique can be used to treat chronic gluteal HS, but reliability and outcomes have not been reported. Skin grafting after excision is associated with increased pain, immobilization, prolonged hospitalization, and longer healing times compared to skin flaps.¹⁹ In a systematic review of wound healing techniques following wide excision, grafting was shown to have the lowest recurrence rate (6%) compared to skin flaps (8%) and primary closure (15%).¹⁷ The absence of hair follicles and sweat glands in STSGs may be advantageous in HS because both hair follicles and sweat glands are thought to play more roles in the pathogenesis of HS.^18,24 Most studies on skin grafts are limited to case reports.

Skin Flaps
Skin flaps are similar to skin grafts in that healthy skin is transplanted from one site to another; the difference is that flaps maintain an intact blood supply, whereas skin grafts depend on growth of new blood vessels.^12,13 The primary advantage of skin flaps is that they provide the best quality of skin due to the thick tissue coverage, which is an important concern, especially in aesthetic scenarios. Additionally, they have been shown to provide shorter healing times than grafts, primary closure, and secondary healing, which can be especially important when functional disability is a concern in the postoperative period.²⁶ However, their use should be limited due to several complications owing to their blood supply, as there is a high risk of ischemia to distant portions of flaps, which often can progress to necrosis and hemorrhage during the harvesting process.² Thus, skin flaps are incredibly difficult to use in larger wounds and often require debulking due to their thickness. Additionally, skin flaps are definitive by nature, which can pose an issue if HS recurs locally. Skin flaps are recommended only when their use is mandatory, such as in the coverage of important anatomic structures (eg, exposed neurovascular bundles and large vessels).² Advances have been made in flap construction, and now several types of flaps are employed in several body areas with differing indications and recommendations.^2,21 As with skin grafts, most studies in the literature are case reports; therefore, further investigation is needed.

Combination Reconstructions
Combination reconstructions refer to the simultaneous use of multiple closure or healing techniques. By combining 2 or more methods, surgeons can utilize the advantages of each technique to provide an individualized approach that can substantially diminish wound surface area and accelerate wound healing.² For example, with the starlike technique, 5 equilateral triangles bordering a foci of axillary disease are excised in addition to the central foci, and the edges of each triangle are then sutured together to create a final scar of considerably smaller size. The starlike technique allows the wound to be partially sutured while leaving the remaining area to heal by secondary intention.² There are a small number of case series and prospective studies on combined reconstructions in HS but no RCTs.

Conclusion

Many procedures exist as options for treatment of patients with HS. Deroofing and cryoinsufflation are options for localized Hurley stage I or II disease. For more severe Hurley stage II or III disease, skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling or wide surgical excisions are preferred. Following excision, there are many options for wound closure, but our preference is to allow the wound to heal by secondary intention. It is imperative that dermatologists are informed on the different techniques for treating this disease to determine the best route of care for their patients.

Hidradenitis suppurativa (HS) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that has a social and psychosocial impact on patients with skin of color.¹ It is characterized by recurrent abscesses, draining sinus tracts, and scarring in the intertriginous skin folds. The lesions are difficult to treat and present with considerable frustration for both patients and physicians. Although current treatment ladders can delay procedures and surgical intervention,¹ some believe that surgery should be introduced earlier in HS management.² In this article, we review current procedures for the management of HS, including cryoinsufflation, incision and drainage, deroofing, skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling, and wide surgical excision, along with various closure techniques.

Cryoinsufflation

First described in 2014, cryoinsufflation is a novel method for treating sinus tracts.³ Lesions initially are identified on physical examination. Prior to the procedure, local anesthesia is administered to the lesion.³ A 21-gauge needle is mounted onto a cryosurgical unit and inserted into the opening of the sinus tract. Liquid nitrogen is sprayed into the tract for 5 seconds, followed by a 3-second pause; the process is repeated 3 times. Patients return for treatment sessions monthly until the tract is obliterated. This procedure was first performed on 2 patients with satisfactory results.³

Since the initial report, the investigators made 2 changes to refine the procedure.⁴ First, systemic antibiotics should be prescribed 2 months prior to the procedure to clear the sinus tracts of infection. Furthermore, a 21-gauge, olive-tipped cannula is recommended in lieu of a 21-gauge needle to mitigate the risk of adverse events such as air embolism.⁴

Incision and Drainage

Incision and drainage provides rapid pain relief for tense fluctuant abscesses, but recurrence is common and the procedure costs are high.⁵ For drainage, wide circumferential local anesthesia is administered followed by incision.⁶ Pus is eliminated using digital pressure or saline rinses.² Following the elimination of pus, the wound may need gauze packing or placement of a wick for a few days.⁶ The general belief is that incision and drainage should be used, if necessary, to rapidly relieve the patient’s pain; however, other surgical options should be considered if the patient has had multiple incision and drainage procedures.⁷ Currently there are no randomized controlled trials (RCTs) on incision and drainage procedures in HS abscesses.

Deroofing

In 1959, Mullins et al⁸ first described the deroofing procedure, which was refined to preserve the floor of the sinus tract in the 1980s.^9,10 Culp¹⁰ and Brown et al⁹ theorized that preservation of the exposed floor of the sinus tract allowed for the epithelial cells from sweat glands and hair follicle remnants to rapidly reepithelialize the wound. In 2010, van der Zee et al¹¹ performed a prospective study of 88 deroofed lesions in which the investigators removed keratinous debris and epithelial remnants of the floor due to concern for recurrence in this area if the tissues remained. Only 17% (15/88) of the lesions recurred at a median follow-up of 34 months.¹¹

In Hurley stage I or II HS, deroofing remains the primary procedure for persistent nodules and sinus tracts.² The lesion is identified on physical examination and local anesthesia is administered, first to the area surrounding the lesion, then to the lesion itself.¹¹ A blunt probe is used to identify openings and search for connecting fistulas. After defining the sinus tract, the roof and wings created by the incision are removed.^11,12 The material on the floor of the tract is scraped away, and the wound is left to heal by secondary intention.¹¹ In general, deroofed lesions heal with cosmetically acceptable scars. We have used this procedure in skin of color patients with good results and no difficulties with healing. Controlled trials with long-term follow-up are lacking in this population.

Skin Tissue–Saving Excision With Electrosurgical Peeling

Skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling was first introduced in 2015.¹³ Blok et al¹⁴ described the procedure as a promising alternative to wide surgical excision for Hurley stage II or III HS. The procedure saves healthy tissue while completely removing lesional tissue, leading to rapid wound healing, excellent cosmesis, and a low risk of contractures^2,14; however, recurrence rates are higher than those seen in wide surgical excision.¹⁵ There are no known RCTs with long-term follow-up for HS patients treated with skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling.

The procedure typically is performed under general anesthesia.¹⁴ First, the sinus tract is palpated on physical examination and probed to delineate the extent of the tract. Next, the roof of the tract is incised electrosurgically with a wire loop tip coupled to an electrosurgical generator.¹⁴ Consecutive tangential excisions are made until the floor of the sinus tract is reached. The process of incising sinus tracts followed by tangential peeling off of tissue continues until the entire area is clear of lesional and fibrotic tissue. The wound margins are probed for the presence and subsequent removal of residual sinus tracts. Lastly, the electrosurgical generator is used to achieve hemostasis, steroids are injected to prevent the formation of hypergranulation tissue, and the wound is left to heal by secondary intention.¹⁴ Following intervention, recurrence rates appear to be similar to wide surgical excision.^13,14

Wide Surgical Excision

Wide excision is a widely established technique consisting of surgical excision of a lesion plus an area of surrounding disease-free tissue such as subcutaneous fat or a lateral margin of intertriginous skin.¹⁵ Similar to other surgical techniques, wide excision is considered in cases of severe disease when pharmacologic management cannot remedy extensive fibrosis or architectural loss. It typically is performed in Hurley stage II and III HS, with pathology extending to involve deeper structures inaccessible to more superficial surgical methods.² Prominent areas of use include gluteal, axillary, perineal, and perianal HS lesions on which conservative treatments have little effect and depend on wide excision to provide successful postoperative results.¹⁶ Although retrospective and prospective studies exist on wide excision in HS, there continues to be a dearth of RCTs. Based on the available literature, the primary motive for wide excision is lower recurrence rates (13% overall compared to 22% and 27% for local excision and deroofing, respectively) and longer asymptomatic periods compared to more local techniques.^7,17 Wide excision combined with continued aggressive medical management and dietary modifications currently is an efficacious treatment in providing functional long-term results.⁶ These benefits, however, are not without their drawbacks, as the more extensive nature of wide surgical excision predisposes patients to larger wounds, surgery-induced infection, and prolonged recovery periods.^6,15 If preoperative measurements are not wisely assessed, the excision also can extend to involve neurovascular bundles and other vital structures, contributing to greater postoperative morbidity.¹⁵ Ultrasonography provides useful anatomic information in HS, such as location and extent of fistulous tracts and fluid collections; these findings can assist in guiding the width and depth of the excision itself to ensure the entire area of HS involvement is removed.¹⁸ Published data revealed that 204 of 255 (80%) patients were markedly satisfied with postoperative outcomes of wide excision,¹⁹ which gives credence to the idea that although the complications of wide excision may not be as favorable, the long-lasting improvements in quality of life make wide surgical excision a suggested first-line treatment in all stages of HS.^16,20

Closure Techniques

The best skin closure method following surgical excision is controversial and not well established in literature. Options include healing by secondary intention, primary (suture-based) closure, skin grafts, and skin flaps. Each of these methods has had moderate success in multiple observational studies, and the choice should be made based on individualized assessment of the patient’s HS lesion characteristics, ability to adhere to recovery protocols, and relevant demographics. A systematic review by Mehdizadeh et al¹⁷ provided the following recurrence rates for techniques utilized after wide excision: primary closure, 15%; flaps, 8%; and grafting, 6%. Despite conflicting evidence, allowing wounds to heal by secondary intention is best, based on the author’s experience (I.H.H.).

Secondary Intention
Healing by secondary intention refers to a wound that is intentionally left open to be filled in with granulation tissue and eventual epithelization over time rather than being approximated and closed via sutures or staples as in primary intention. It is a well-established option in wound management and results in a longer but more comfortable period of convalescence in postsurgical HS management.²⁰ Patients can add regular moist wound dressings (eg, silastic foam dressing) to manage the wound at home and continue normal activities for most of the healing period; however, the recovery period can become excessively long and painful, and there is a high risk of formation of retractile scar bands at and around the healing site.¹² Strict adherence to wound-healing protocols is paramount to minimizing unwanted complications.²¹ Secondary intention often is used after wide local excision and has been demonstrated to yield positive functional and aesthetic results in multiple studies, especially in the more severe Hurley stage II or III cases.^21,22 It can be successfully employed after laser treatment and in surgical defects of all sizes with little to no contractures or reduced range of motion.⁶ Ultimately, the choice to heal via secondary intention should be made after thorough assessment of patient needs and with ample education to ensure compliance.

Primary Closure
Primary closure is the suture-mediated closing technique that is most often used in wound closure for lower-grade HS cases, especially smaller excisions. However, it is associated with potential complications. If HS lesions are not effectively excised, disease can then recur at the periphery of the excision and wound dehiscence can manifest more readily, especially as wound size increases.²³ Consequently, primary closure is associated with the highest recurrence rates among closure techniques.¹⁷ Avoiding primary closure in active disease also is recommended due to the potential of burying residual foci of inflammation.⁶ Finally, primary closures lack skin coverage and thus often are not viable options in most perianal and genital lesions that require more extensive reconstruction. Retrospective case series and case reports exist on primary excision, but further study is needed.

Skin Grafts
Skin grafting is a technique of surgically transplanting a piece of healthy skin from one body site to another. Skin grafts typically are used when primary closure or skin flaps are not feasible (eg, in large wounds) and also when shorter time to wound closure is a greater concern in patient recovery.^2,24 Additionally, skin grafts can be employed on large flat surfaces of the body, such as the buttocks or thighs, for timely wound closure when wound contraction is less effective or wound healing is slow via epithelization. Types of skin graft techniques include split-thickness skin graft (STSG), full-thickness skin graft, and recycled skin graft. All 3 types have demonstrated acceptable functional and aesthetic results in observational studies and case reports, and thus deciding which technique to use should include individualized assessment.^2,25 The STSG has several advantages over the full-thickness skin graft, including hairlessness (ie, without hair follicles), ease of harvest, and a less complicated transfer to contaminated lesional areas such as those in HS.²⁶ Additionally, STSGs allow for closure of even the largest wounds with minimal risk of serious infection. Split-thickness skin grafts are considered one of the most efficacious tools for axilla reconstruction; however, they require prolonged immobilization of the arm, result in sequelae in donor sites, and do not always prevent retractile scars.²⁶ The recycled skin graft technique can be used to treat chronic gluteal HS, but reliability and outcomes have not been reported. Skin grafting after excision is associated with increased pain, immobilization, prolonged hospitalization, and longer healing times compared to skin flaps.¹⁹ In a systematic review of wound healing techniques following wide excision, grafting was shown to have the lowest recurrence rate (6%) compared to skin flaps (8%) and primary closure (15%).¹⁷ The absence of hair follicles and sweat glands in STSGs may be advantageous in HS because both hair follicles and sweat glands are thought to play more roles in the pathogenesis of HS.^18,24 Most studies on skin grafts are limited to case reports.

Skin Flaps
Skin flaps are similar to skin grafts in that healthy skin is transplanted from one site to another; the difference is that flaps maintain an intact blood supply, whereas skin grafts depend on growth of new blood vessels.^12,13 The primary advantage of skin flaps is that they provide the best quality of skin due to the thick tissue coverage, which is an important concern, especially in aesthetic scenarios. Additionally, they have been shown to provide shorter healing times than grafts, primary closure, and secondary healing, which can be especially important when functional disability is a concern in the postoperative period.²⁶ However, their use should be limited due to several complications owing to their blood supply, as there is a high risk of ischemia to distant portions of flaps, which often can progress to necrosis and hemorrhage during the harvesting process.² Thus, skin flaps are incredibly difficult to use in larger wounds and often require debulking due to their thickness. Additionally, skin flaps are definitive by nature, which can pose an issue if HS recurs locally. Skin flaps are recommended only when their use is mandatory, such as in the coverage of important anatomic structures (eg, exposed neurovascular bundles and large vessels).² Advances have been made in flap construction, and now several types of flaps are employed in several body areas with differing indications and recommendations.^2,21 As with skin grafts, most studies in the literature are case reports; therefore, further investigation is needed.

Combination Reconstructions
Combination reconstructions refer to the simultaneous use of multiple closure or healing techniques. By combining 2 or more methods, surgeons can utilize the advantages of each technique to provide an individualized approach that can substantially diminish wound surface area and accelerate wound healing.² For example, with the starlike technique, 5 equilateral triangles bordering a foci of axillary disease are excised in addition to the central foci, and the edges of each triangle are then sutured together to create a final scar of considerably smaller size. The starlike technique allows the wound to be partially sutured while leaving the remaining area to heal by secondary intention.² There are a small number of case series and prospective studies on combined reconstructions in HS but no RCTs.

Conclusion

Many procedures exist as options for treatment of patients with HS. Deroofing and cryoinsufflation are options for localized Hurley stage I or II disease. For more severe Hurley stage II or III disease, skin tissue–saving excision with electrosurgical peeling or wide surgical excisions are preferred. Following excision, there are many options for wound closure, but our preference is to allow the wound to heal by secondary intention. It is imperative that dermatologists are informed on the different techniques for treating this disease to determine the best route of care for their patients.

Cutaneous melanoma is a considerable public health concern. In the United States, an estimated 87,110 cases were diagnosed in 2017, and more than 9000 deaths are expected as result of this disease in 2018.¹ Early diagnosis of melanoma is associated with favorable survival rates (5-year overall survival rates for melanoma in situ and stage IA melanoma, 99% and 97%, respectively).² In contrast, the prognosis for advanced-stage melanoma is poor, with a 5-year survival rate of 16% for patients with stage IV disease. Therefore, early detection is critical to reducing mortality in melanoma patients.³

The term Hispanic refers to a panethnic category primarily encompassing Mexican-Americans, Cubans, and Puerto Ricans, as well as individuals from the Caribbean and Central and South America. These populations are diverse in birth origin, primary language, acculturation, distinct ethnic traditions, education level, and occupation. Hispanics in the United States are heterogeneous in many dimensions related to health risks, health care use, and health outcomes.⁴ Genetic predisposition, lifestyle risks, and access to and use of health care services can shape melanoma diagnosis, treatment, and progression across Hispanic populations differently than in other populations.

In this review, the epidemiology and clinical presentation of melanoma in US Hispanics is summarized, and recommendations for a research agenda to advance understanding of this disease in the most rapidly growing segment of the US population is provided.

Melanoma Incidence, Presentation, and Outcomes in US Hispanics

In the period from 2008 to 2012, the age-adjusted incidence of melanoma in US Hispanics (4.6 per 100,00 men and 4.2 per 100,00 women) was lower than in NHWs.⁵ Garnett et al⁵ reported a decline in melanoma incidence in US Hispanics between 2003 and 2012—an observation that stands in contrast to state-level studies in California and Florida, in which small but substantial increases in melanoma incidence among Hispanics were reported.^6,7 The rising incidence of melanomas thicker than 1.5 mm at presentation among Hispanic men living in California is particularly worrisome.⁶ Discrepancies in incidence trends might reflect changes in incidence over time or differences in state-level registry reporting of melanoma.⁵

Despite a lower overall incidence of melanoma in US Hispanics, those who do develop the disease are 2.4 times more likely (age-adjusted odds ratio) to present with stage III disease (confidence interval, 1.89-3.05)⁸ and are 3.64 times more likely to develop distant metastases (confidence interval, 2.65-5.0) than NHWs.^3,7,9-13 Disparities also exist in the diagnosis of childhood melanoma: Hispanic children and adolescents who have a diagnosis of melanoma are 3 times more likely to present with advanced disease than NHW counterparts.¹⁴ Survival analyses by age and stage show considerably lower survival among Hispanic patients compared to NHW patients with stage I and II disease. In part, worse survival outcomes among Hispanics are the result of the pattern of more advanced disease at presentation.^8,14,15

Late presentation for evaluation of melanomas in Hispanics has been attributed to a number of variables, including a lack of skin cancer awareness and knowledge,^9,16 a lower rate of self- and physician-performed skin examinations,¹⁰ differences in tumor biology,⁹ and socioeconomic forces.^7,17

In a previous study investigating the relationship between neighborhood characteristics and tumor stage at melanoma diagnosis in Hispanic men in California, Texas, and Florida, several key findings emerged.¹⁷ First, residency in a census tract with a high density of immigrants (California, Texas) and a high composition of Hispanics (California, Florida) was an important predictor of a late-stage melanoma diagnosis in fully adjusted models. Additionally, the strength of association between measures of socioeconomic status (ie, poverty and education) and tumor stage at melanoma diagnosis was attenuated in multivariate models when enclaves and availability of primary care resources were taken into account. Hispanic melanoma cases in areas with a low density of primary care physicians had an increased likelihood of late-stage diagnosis in California and Texas. The probability of late-stage diagnosis was concentrated in specific regions along the United States–Mexico border, in south central California, and along the southeastern coast of Florida. Lastly, in Texas, Hispanic men aged 18 to 34 years and 35 to 49 years were at an increased risk of late-stage melanoma diagnosis compared to men 65 years and older.¹⁷

Demographic and Clinical Characteristics of Melanoma in Hispanic Patients

Among Hispanics, white Hispanics comprise the majority of melanoma cases.⁵ Median age at diagnosis is younger in Hispanics compared to whites.^5,6 Hispanic men typically are older (median age, 61 years) than Hispanic women (median age, 52 years) at diagnosis.⁵ Similar to what is seen in NHWs, young Hispanic women experience a higher melanoma incidence than young Hispanic men.⁵ Among older Hispanics, melanoma is more common in men.^5,8

Melanomas located on the lower extremities and hips are more prevalent in Hispanics than in NHWs.^5,8,18 Among Hispanics, there are age- and sex-based variations in the anatomic location of primary tumors: in Hispanic men, truncal tumors predominate, and in Hispanic women, tumors of the lower extremities are most common across all age groups.⁵ The incidence of melanomas located in the head and neck region increases with age for both Hispanic men and women.

For melanomas in which the histologic type is known, superficial spreading melanoma is the most common subtype among Hispanics.^5,17,19 Acral lentiginous melanomas and nodular melanomas are more common among Hispanics than among NHWs.^5,17,19

The observation that Hispanics with melanoma are more prone to lower-extremity tumors and nodular and acral lentiginous melanoma subtypes than NHWs suggests that UV exposure history may be of less importance in this population. Although numerous studies have explored melanoma risk factors in NHWs, there is a striking paucity of such studies in Hispanics. For example, there are conflicting data regarding the role of UV exposure in melanoma risk among Hispanics. Hu et al²⁰ found that UV index and latitude correlated with melanoma risk in this population, whereas Eide et al²¹ found no association between UV exposure and melanoma incidence in Hispanics. A prospective study involving a multiethnic cohort (of whom 40 of the 107 participants were Hispanic) found no clear association between a history of sunburn and melanoma risk in Hispanics.¹⁸

Strategies for Reducing Disparities in Outcomes

Our knowledge of melanoma epidemiology in Hispanics derives mainly from secondary analyses of state-level and national cancer registry data sets.^{5-8,13-15,17,19,20} These administrative data sources often are limited by missing data (eg, tumor thickness, histologic subtype) or lack important patient-level information (eg, self-identified race and ethnicity, health insurance status). Additionally, the manner in which data are collected and integrated into research varies; for example, socioeconomic measures often are reported as either area-based or composite measures. Thus, there is a need to improve the consistency of reporting on demographic and socioeconomic measures across studies. Polite et al²² recommended standardization of reporting criteria and that a standard set of demographic and socioeconomic status measures be included in clinical registries and research protocols.²² Researchers should strive to collect self-reported information on race and ethnicity, as well as the most granular level of detail on health insurance status, ancestry, and immigration status.

The host phenotypic characteristics of melanoma in NHWs are well understood, but the biological and environmental determinants of melanoma risk in Hispanics and other minorities are unknown. For example, fair complexion, red hair, blue eyes, increased freckling density, and the presence of numerous dysplastic and common melanocytic nevi indicate a propensity toward cutaneous melanoma.^23,24 However, the relevance of such risk factors in Hispanics is unknown and has not been widely investigated in this patient population. Park et al¹⁸ found that a person’s sunburn susceptibility phenotype (defined as hair and eye color, ability to tan, and skin reaction to sunlight) was associated with an increased risk of melanoma among nonwhite, multiracial individuals. However, this study was limited by a small number of minority cases, which included only 40 Hispanic participants with melanoma.¹⁸ There is a need for rigorous observational studies to clearly define the phenotypic characteristics, sun-exposure behavior patterns, and genetic contributors to melanoma genesis in Hispanics.

The biologic determinants of postdiagnosis survival in Hispanics with melanoma are not well understood. It is unknown if genetic predisposition modifies melanoma risk in Hispanics. For example, the frequency of BRAF gene mutation or other driver mutations in US Hispanics has been understudied. It is important to know if mutation frequency patterns differ in Hispanics patients compared to NHWs because this knowledge could have considerable implications for treatment. Several recommendations should be considered to address these knowledge gaps. First, there is a need for development or enhancement of melanoma biorepositories, which should include tumor and nontumor specimens from a diverse sample of melanoma patients. Additionally, multi-institutional and multidisciplinary consortiums need to be created in order to amass a number of Hispanic melanoma patients to identify genetic, biologic, and behavioral risk factors specific to this subgroup of patients. The AMBER Consortium, which focuses on breast cancer epidemiology and risk in black women, is a model for the type of consortium needed for the study of melanoma in Hispanics.²⁵ Lastly, community engagement will be central to developing sustainable recruitment and data-collection efforts.²⁶ Involvement of key stakeholders will provide an in-depth assessment of community needs as well as real-time feedback on the process and practicality of research questions. Buy-in from affected communities also may facilitate dissemination of research findings to affected communities.

Conclusion

Hispanics are more likely to present with an advanced stages of disease and have higher melanoma-specific mortality rates than NHWs. Regrettably, a huge knowledge gap exists regarding contributors and solutions to melanoma disparities among this fast-growing, understudied segment of the US population. Accordingly, critical research is needed to address the most pressing questions regarding melanoma risk and poor outcomes among Hispanics to foster implementation of interventional efforts in prevention, early detection, and treatment. A multi-institutional and multidisciplinary approach across multiple levels is needed to eliminate disparate outcomes. Although melanoma is relatively uncommon among Hispanics, studies of melanoma in Hispanics (given their diverse genetic ancestry and migration) provide a unique backdrop against which researchers can explicate melanoma etiology—thus benefiting Hispanics and non-Hispanics alike.

Cutaneous melanoma is a considerable public health concern. In the United States, an estimated 87,110 cases were diagnosed in 2017, and more than 9000 deaths are expected as result of this disease in 2018.¹ Early diagnosis of melanoma is associated with favorable survival rates (5-year overall survival rates for melanoma in situ and stage IA melanoma, 99% and 97%, respectively).² In contrast, the prognosis for advanced-stage melanoma is poor, with a 5-year survival rate of 16% for patients with stage IV disease. Therefore, early detection is critical to reducing mortality in melanoma patients.³

The term Hispanic refers to a panethnic category primarily encompassing Mexican-Americans, Cubans, and Puerto Ricans, as well as individuals from the Caribbean and Central and South America. These populations are diverse in birth origin, primary language, acculturation, distinct ethnic traditions, education level, and occupation. Hispanics in the United States are heterogeneous in many dimensions related to health risks, health care use, and health outcomes.⁴ Genetic predisposition, lifestyle risks, and access to and use of health care services can shape melanoma diagnosis, treatment, and progression across Hispanic populations differently than in other populations.

In this review, the epidemiology and clinical presentation of melanoma in US Hispanics is summarized, and recommendations for a research agenda to advance understanding of this disease in the most rapidly growing segment of the US population is provided.

Melanoma Incidence, Presentation, and Outcomes in US Hispanics

In the period from 2008 to 2012, the age-adjusted incidence of melanoma in US Hispanics (4.6 per 100,00 men and 4.2 per 100,00 women) was lower than in NHWs.⁵ Garnett et al⁵ reported a decline in melanoma incidence in US Hispanics between 2003 and 2012—an observation that stands in contrast to state-level studies in California and Florida, in which small but substantial increases in melanoma incidence among Hispanics were reported.^6,7 The rising incidence of melanomas thicker than 1.5 mm at presentation among Hispanic men living in California is particularly worrisome.⁶ Discrepancies in incidence trends might reflect changes in incidence over time or differences in state-level registry reporting of melanoma.⁵

Despite a lower overall incidence of melanoma in US Hispanics, those who do develop the disease are 2.4 times more likely (age-adjusted odds ratio) to present with stage III disease (confidence interval, 1.89-3.05)⁸ and are 3.64 times more likely to develop distant metastases (confidence interval, 2.65-5.0) than NHWs.^3,7,9-13 Disparities also exist in the diagnosis of childhood melanoma: Hispanic children and adolescents who have a diagnosis of melanoma are 3 times more likely to present with advanced disease than NHW counterparts.¹⁴ Survival analyses by age and stage show considerably lower survival among Hispanic patients compared to NHW patients with stage I and II disease. In part, worse survival outcomes among Hispanics are the result of the pattern of more advanced disease at presentation.^8,14,15

Late presentation for evaluation of melanomas in Hispanics has been attributed to a number of variables, including a lack of skin cancer awareness and knowledge,^9,16 a lower rate of self- and physician-performed skin examinations,¹⁰ differences in tumor biology,⁹ and socioeconomic forces.^7,17

In a previous study investigating the relationship between neighborhood characteristics and tumor stage at melanoma diagnosis in Hispanic men in California, Texas, and Florida, several key findings emerged.¹⁷ First, residency in a census tract with a high density of immigrants (California, Texas) and a high composition of Hispanics (California, Florida) was an important predictor of a late-stage melanoma diagnosis in fully adjusted models. Additionally, the strength of association between measures of socioeconomic status (ie, poverty and education) and tumor stage at melanoma diagnosis was attenuated in multivariate models when enclaves and availability of primary care resources were taken into account. Hispanic melanoma cases in areas with a low density of primary care physicians had an increased likelihood of late-stage diagnosis in California and Texas. The probability of late-stage diagnosis was concentrated in specific regions along the United States–Mexico border, in south central California, and along the southeastern coast of Florida. Lastly, in Texas, Hispanic men aged 18 to 34 years and 35 to 49 years were at an increased risk of late-stage melanoma diagnosis compared to men 65 years and older.¹⁷

Demographic and Clinical Characteristics of Melanoma in Hispanic Patients

Among Hispanics, white Hispanics comprise the majority of melanoma cases.⁵ Median age at diagnosis is younger in Hispanics compared to whites.^5,6 Hispanic men typically are older (median age, 61 years) than Hispanic women (median age, 52 years) at diagnosis.⁵ Similar to what is seen in NHWs, young Hispanic women experience a higher melanoma incidence than young Hispanic men.⁵ Among older Hispanics, melanoma is more common in men.^5,8

Melanomas located on the lower extremities and hips are more prevalent in Hispanics than in NHWs.^5,8,18 Among Hispanics, there are age- and sex-based variations in the anatomic location of primary tumors: in Hispanic men, truncal tumors predominate, and in Hispanic women, tumors of the lower extremities are most common across all age groups.⁵ The incidence of melanomas located in the head and neck region increases with age for both Hispanic men and women.

For melanomas in which the histologic type is known, superficial spreading melanoma is the most common subtype among Hispanics.^5,17,19 Acral lentiginous melanomas and nodular melanomas are more common among Hispanics than among NHWs.^5,17,19

The observation that Hispanics with melanoma are more prone to lower-extremity tumors and nodular and acral lentiginous melanoma subtypes than NHWs suggests that UV exposure history may be of less importance in this population. Although numerous studies have explored melanoma risk factors in NHWs, there is a striking paucity of such studies in Hispanics. For example, there are conflicting data regarding the role of UV exposure in melanoma risk among Hispanics. Hu et al²⁰ found that UV index and latitude correlated with melanoma risk in this population, whereas Eide et al²¹ found no association between UV exposure and melanoma incidence in Hispanics. A prospective study involving a multiethnic cohort (of whom 40 of the 107 participants were Hispanic) found no clear association between a history of sunburn and melanoma risk in Hispanics.¹⁸

Strategies for Reducing Disparities in Outcomes

Our knowledge of melanoma epidemiology in Hispanics derives mainly from secondary analyses of state-level and national cancer registry data sets.^{5-8,13-15,17,19,20} These administrative data sources often are limited by missing data (eg, tumor thickness, histologic subtype) or lack important patient-level information (eg, self-identified race and ethnicity, health insurance status). Additionally, the manner in which data are collected and integrated into research varies; for example, socioeconomic measures often are reported as either area-based or composite measures. Thus, there is a need to improve the consistency of reporting on demographic and socioeconomic measures across studies. Polite et al²² recommended standardization of reporting criteria and that a standard set of demographic and socioeconomic status measures be included in clinical registries and research protocols.²² Researchers should strive to collect self-reported information on race and ethnicity, as well as the most granular level of detail on health insurance status, ancestry, and immigration status.

The host phenotypic characteristics of melanoma in NHWs are well understood, but the biological and environmental determinants of melanoma risk in Hispanics and other minorities are unknown. For example, fair complexion, red hair, blue eyes, increased freckling density, and the presence of numerous dysplastic and common melanocytic nevi indicate a propensity toward cutaneous melanoma.^23,24 However, the relevance of such risk factors in Hispanics is unknown and has not been widely investigated in this patient population. Park et al¹⁸ found that a person’s sunburn susceptibility phenotype (defined as hair and eye color, ability to tan, and skin reaction to sunlight) was associated with an increased risk of melanoma among nonwhite, multiracial individuals. However, this study was limited by a small number of minority cases, which included only 40 Hispanic participants with melanoma.¹⁸ There is a need for rigorous observational studies to clearly define the phenotypic characteristics, sun-exposure behavior patterns, and genetic contributors to melanoma genesis in Hispanics.

The biologic determinants of postdiagnosis survival in Hispanics with melanoma are not well understood. It is unknown if genetic predisposition modifies melanoma risk in Hispanics. For example, the frequency of BRAF gene mutation or other driver mutations in US Hispanics has been understudied. It is important to know if mutation frequency patterns differ in Hispanics patients compared to NHWs because this knowledge could have considerable implications for treatment. Several recommendations should be considered to address these knowledge gaps. First, there is a need for development or enhancement of melanoma biorepositories, which should include tumor and nontumor specimens from a diverse sample of melanoma patients. Additionally, multi-institutional and multidisciplinary consortiums need to be created in order to amass a number of Hispanic melanoma patients to identify genetic, biologic, and behavioral risk factors specific to this subgroup of patients. The AMBER Consortium, which focuses on breast cancer epidemiology and risk in black women, is a model for the type of consortium needed for the study of melanoma in Hispanics.²⁵ Lastly, community engagement will be central to developing sustainable recruitment and data-collection efforts.²⁶ Involvement of key stakeholders will provide an in-depth assessment of community needs as well as real-time feedback on the process and practicality of research questions. Buy-in from affected communities also may facilitate dissemination of research findings to affected communities.

Conclusion

Hispanics are more likely to present with an advanced stages of disease and have higher melanoma-specific mortality rates than NHWs. Regrettably, a huge knowledge gap exists regarding contributors and solutions to melanoma disparities among this fast-growing, understudied segment of the US population. Accordingly, critical research is needed to address the most pressing questions regarding melanoma risk and poor outcomes among Hispanics to foster implementation of interventional efforts in prevention, early detection, and treatment. A multi-institutional and multidisciplinary approach across multiple levels is needed to eliminate disparate outcomes. Although melanoma is relatively uncommon among Hispanics, studies of melanoma in Hispanics (given their diverse genetic ancestry and migration) provide a unique backdrop against which researchers can explicate melanoma etiology—thus benefiting Hispanics and non-Hispanics alike.

Cutaneous melanoma is a considerable public health concern. In the United States, an estimated 87,110 cases were diagnosed in 2017, and more than 9000 deaths are expected as result of this disease in 2018.¹ Early diagnosis of melanoma is associated with favorable survival rates (5-year overall survival rates for melanoma in situ and stage IA melanoma, 99% and 97%, respectively).² In contrast, the prognosis for advanced-stage melanoma is poor, with a 5-year survival rate of 16% for patients with stage IV disease. Therefore, early detection is critical to reducing mortality in melanoma patients.³

The term Hispanic refers to a panethnic category primarily encompassing Mexican-Americans, Cubans, and Puerto Ricans, as well as individuals from the Caribbean and Central and South America. These populations are diverse in birth origin, primary language, acculturation, distinct ethnic traditions, education level, and occupation. Hispanics in the United States are heterogeneous in many dimensions related to health risks, health care use, and health outcomes.⁴ Genetic predisposition, lifestyle risks, and access to and use of health care services can shape melanoma diagnosis, treatment, and progression across Hispanic populations differently than in other populations.

In this review, the epidemiology and clinical presentation of melanoma in US Hispanics is summarized, and recommendations for a research agenda to advance understanding of this disease in the most rapidly growing segment of the US population is provided.

Melanoma Incidence, Presentation, and Outcomes in US Hispanics

In the period from 2008 to 2012, the age-adjusted incidence of melanoma in US Hispanics (4.6 per 100,00 men and 4.2 per 100,00 women) was lower than in NHWs.⁵ Garnett et al⁵ reported a decline in melanoma incidence in US Hispanics between 2003 and 2012—an observation that stands in contrast to state-level studies in California and Florida, in which small but substantial increases in melanoma incidence among Hispanics were reported.^6,7 The rising incidence of melanomas thicker than 1.5 mm at presentation among Hispanic men living in California is particularly worrisome.⁶ Discrepancies in incidence trends might reflect changes in incidence over time or differences in state-level registry reporting of melanoma.⁵

Despite a lower overall incidence of melanoma in US Hispanics, those who do develop the disease are 2.4 times more likely (age-adjusted odds ratio) to present with stage III disease (confidence interval, 1.89-3.05)⁸ and are 3.64 times more likely to develop distant metastases (confidence interval, 2.65-5.0) than NHWs.^3,7,9-13 Disparities also exist in the diagnosis of childhood melanoma: Hispanic children and adolescents who have a diagnosis of melanoma are 3 times more likely to present with advanced disease than NHW counterparts.¹⁴ Survival analyses by age and stage show considerably lower survival among Hispanic patients compared to NHW patients with stage I and II disease. In part, worse survival outcomes among Hispanics are the result of the pattern of more advanced disease at presentation.^8,14,15

Late presentation for evaluation of melanomas in Hispanics has been attributed to a number of variables, including a lack of skin cancer awareness and knowledge,^9,16 a lower rate of self- and physician-performed skin examinations,¹⁰ differences in tumor biology,⁹ and socioeconomic forces.^7,17

In a previous study investigating the relationship between neighborhood characteristics and tumor stage at melanoma diagnosis in Hispanic men in California, Texas, and Florida, several key findings emerged.¹⁷ First, residency in a census tract with a high density of immigrants (California, Texas) and a high composition of Hispanics (California, Florida) was an important predictor of a late-stage melanoma diagnosis in fully adjusted models. Additionally, the strength of association between measures of socioeconomic status (ie, poverty and education) and tumor stage at melanoma diagnosis was attenuated in multivariate models when enclaves and availability of primary care resources were taken into account. Hispanic melanoma cases in areas with a low density of primary care physicians had an increased likelihood of late-stage diagnosis in California and Texas. The probability of late-stage diagnosis was concentrated in specific regions along the United States–Mexico border, in south central California, and along the southeastern coast of Florida. Lastly, in Texas, Hispanic men aged 18 to 34 years and 35 to 49 years were at an increased risk of late-stage melanoma diagnosis compared to men 65 years and older.¹⁷

Demographic and Clinical Characteristics of Melanoma in Hispanic Patients

Among Hispanics, white Hispanics comprise the majority of melanoma cases.⁵ Median age at diagnosis is younger in Hispanics compared to whites.^5,6 Hispanic men typically are older (median age, 61 years) than Hispanic women (median age, 52 years) at diagnosis.⁵ Similar to what is seen in NHWs, young Hispanic women experience a higher melanoma incidence than young Hispanic men.⁵ Among older Hispanics, melanoma is more common in men.^5,8

Melanomas located on the lower extremities and hips are more prevalent in Hispanics than in NHWs.^5,8,18 Among Hispanics, there are age- and sex-based variations in the anatomic location of primary tumors: in Hispanic men, truncal tumors predominate, and in Hispanic women, tumors of the lower extremities are most common across all age groups.⁵ The incidence of melanomas located in the head and neck region increases with age for both Hispanic men and women.

For melanomas in which the histologic type is known, superficial spreading melanoma is the most common subtype among Hispanics.^5,17,19 Acral lentiginous melanomas and nodular melanomas are more common among Hispanics than among NHWs.^5,17,19

The observation that Hispanics with melanoma are more prone to lower-extremity tumors and nodular and acral lentiginous melanoma subtypes than NHWs suggests that UV exposure history may be of less importance in this population. Although numerous studies have explored melanoma risk factors in NHWs, there is a striking paucity of such studies in Hispanics. For example, there are conflicting data regarding the role of UV exposure in melanoma risk among Hispanics. Hu et al²⁰ found that UV index and latitude correlated with melanoma risk in this population, whereas Eide et al²¹ found no association between UV exposure and melanoma incidence in Hispanics. A prospective study involving a multiethnic cohort (of whom 40 of the 107 participants were Hispanic) found no clear association between a history of sunburn and melanoma risk in Hispanics.¹⁸

Strategies for Reducing Disparities in Outcomes

Our knowledge of melanoma epidemiology in Hispanics derives mainly from secondary analyses of state-level and national cancer registry data sets.^{5-8,13-15,17,19,20} These administrative data sources often are limited by missing data (eg, tumor thickness, histologic subtype) or lack important patient-level information (eg, self-identified race and ethnicity, health insurance status). Additionally, the manner in which data are collected and integrated into research varies; for example, socioeconomic measures often are reported as either area-based or composite measures. Thus, there is a need to improve the consistency of reporting on demographic and socioeconomic measures across studies. Polite et al²² recommended standardization of reporting criteria and that a standard set of demographic and socioeconomic status measures be included in clinical registries and research protocols.²² Researchers should strive to collect self-reported information on race and ethnicity, as well as the most granular level of detail on health insurance status, ancestry, and immigration status.

The host phenotypic characteristics of melanoma in NHWs are well understood, but the biological and environmental determinants of melanoma risk in Hispanics and other minorities are unknown. For example, fair complexion, red hair, blue eyes, increased freckling density, and the presence of numerous dysplastic and common melanocytic nevi indicate a propensity toward cutaneous melanoma.^23,24 However, the relevance of such risk factors in Hispanics is unknown and has not been widely investigated in this patient population. Park et al¹⁸ found that a person’s sunburn susceptibility phenotype (defined as hair and eye color, ability to tan, and skin reaction to sunlight) was associated with an increased risk of melanoma among nonwhite, multiracial individuals. However, this study was limited by a small number of minority cases, which included only 40 Hispanic participants with melanoma.¹⁸ There is a need for rigorous observational studies to clearly define the phenotypic characteristics, sun-exposure behavior patterns, and genetic contributors to melanoma genesis in Hispanics.

The biologic determinants of postdiagnosis survival in Hispanics with melanoma are not well understood. It is unknown if genetic predisposition modifies melanoma risk in Hispanics. For example, the frequency of BRAF gene mutation or other driver mutations in US Hispanics has been understudied. It is important to know if mutation frequency patterns differ in Hispanics patients compared to NHWs because this knowledge could have considerable implications for treatment. Several recommendations should be considered to address these knowledge gaps. First, there is a need for development or enhancement of melanoma biorepositories, which should include tumor and nontumor specimens from a diverse sample of melanoma patients. Additionally, multi-institutional and multidisciplinary consortiums need to be created in order to amass a number of Hispanic melanoma patients to identify genetic, biologic, and behavioral risk factors specific to this subgroup of patients. The AMBER Consortium, which focuses on breast cancer epidemiology and risk in black women, is a model for the type of consortium needed for the study of melanoma in Hispanics.²⁵ Lastly, community engagement will be central to developing sustainable recruitment and data-collection efforts.²⁶ Involvement of key stakeholders will provide an in-depth assessment of community needs as well as real-time feedback on the process and practicality of research questions. Buy-in from affected communities also may facilitate dissemination of research findings to affected communities.

Conclusion

Hispanics are more likely to present with an advanced stages of disease and have higher melanoma-specific mortality rates than NHWs. Regrettably, a huge knowledge gap exists regarding contributors and solutions to melanoma disparities among this fast-growing, understudied segment of the US population. Accordingly, critical research is needed to address the most pressing questions regarding melanoma risk and poor outcomes among Hispanics to foster implementation of interventional efforts in prevention, early detection, and treatment. A multi-institutional and multidisciplinary approach across multiple levels is needed to eliminate disparate outcomes. Although melanoma is relatively uncommon among Hispanics, studies of melanoma in Hispanics (given their diverse genetic ancestry and migration) provide a unique backdrop against which researchers can explicate melanoma etiology—thus benefiting Hispanics and non-Hispanics alike.

Shampoo is a staple in hair grooming that is ever-evolving along with cultural trends. The global shampoo market is expected to reach an estimated value of $25.73 billion by 2019. A major driver of this upward trend in market growth is the increasing demand for natural and organic hair shampoos.¹ Society today has a growing fixation on healthy living practices, and as of late, the ingredients in shampoos and other cosmetic products have become one of the latest targets in the health-consciousness craze. In the age of the Internet where information—and misinformation—is widely accessible and dispersed, the general public often strives to self-educate on specialized matters that are out of their expertise. As a result, individuals have developed an aversion to using certain shampoos out of fear that the ingredients, often referred to as “chemicals” by patients due to their complex names, are unnatural and therefore unhealthy.^1,2 Product developers are working to meet the demand by reformulating shampoos with labels that indicate sulfate free or paraben free, despite the lack of proof that these formulations are an improvement over traditional approaches to hair health. Additionally, alternative methods of cleansing the hair and scalp, also known as the no-shampoo or “no-poo” method, have begun to gain popularity.^2,3

It is essential that dermatologists acknowledge the concerns that their patients have about common shampoo ingredients to dispel the myths that may misinform patient decision-making. This article reviews the controversy surrounding the use of sulfates and parabens in shampoos as well as commonly used shampoo alternatives. Due to the increased prevalence of dry hair shafts in the skin of color population, especially black women, this group is particularly interested in products that will minimize breakage and dryness of the hair. To that end, this population has great interest in the removal of chemical ingredients that may cause damage to the hair shafts, despite the lack of data to support sulfates and paraben damage to hair shafts or scalp skin. Blogs and uninformed hairstylists may propagate these beliefs in a group of consumers who are desperate for new approaches to hair fragility and breakage.

Surfactants and Sulfates

The cleansing ability of a shampoo depends on the surface activity of its detergents. Surface-active ingredients, or surfactants, reduce the surface tension between water and dirt, thus facilitating the removal of environmental dirt from the hair and scalp,⁴ which is achieved by a molecular structure containing both a hydrophilic and a lipophilic group. Sebum and dirt are bound by the lipophilic ends of the surfactant, becoming the center of a micelle structure with the hydrophilic molecule ends pointing outward. Dirt particles become water soluble and are removed from the scalp and hair shaft upon rinsing with water.⁴

Surfactants are classified according to the electric charge of the hydrophilic polar group as either anionic, cationic, amphoteric (zwitterionic), or nonionic.⁵ Each possesses different hair conditioning and cleansing qualities, and multiple surfactants are used in shampoos in differing ratios to accommodate different hair types. In most shampoos, the base consists of anionic and amphoteric surfactants. Depending on individual product requirements, nonionic and cationic surfactants are used to either modify the effects of the surfactants or as conditioning agents.^4,5

One subcategory of surfactants that receives much attention is the group of anionic surfactants known as sulfates. Sulfates, particularly sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), recently have developed a negative reputation as cosmetic ingredients, as reports from various unscientific sources have labeled them as hazardous to one’s health; SLS has been described as a skin and scalp irritant, has been linked to cataract formation, and has even been wrongly labeled as carcinogenic.⁶ The origins of some of these claims are not clear, though they likely arose from the misinterpretation of complex scientific studies that are easily accessible to laypeople. The link between SLS and ocular irritation or cataract formation is a good illustration of this unsubstantiated fear. A study by Green et al⁷ showed that corneal exposure to extremely high concentrations of SLS following physical or chemical damage to the eye can result in a slowed healing process. The results of this study have since been wrongly quoted to state that SLS-containing products lead to blindness or severe corneal damage.⁸ A different study tested for possible ocular irritation in vivo by submerging the lens of an eye into a 20% SLS solution, which accurately approximates the concentration of SLS in rinse-off consumer products.⁹ However, to achieve ocular irritation, the eyes of laboratory animals were exposed to SLS constantly for 14 days, which would not occur in practical use.⁹ Similarly, a third study achieved cataract formation in a laboratory only by immersing the lens of an eye into a highly concentrated solution of SLS.¹⁰ Such studies are not appropriate representations of how SLS-containing products are used by consumers and have unfortunately been vulnerable to misinterpretation by the general public.

There is no known study that has shown SLS to be carcinogenic. One possible origin of this idea may be from the wrongful interpretation of studies that used SLS as a vehicle substance to test agents that were deemed to be carcinogenic.¹¹ Another possible source of the idea that SLS is carcinogenic comes from its association with 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of the synthesis of certain sulfates such as sodium laureth sulfate due to a process known as ethoxylation.^6,12 Although SLS does not undergo this process in its formation and is not linked to 1,4-dioxane, there is potential for cross-contamination of SLS with 1,4-dioxane, which cannot be overlooked. 1,4-Dioxane is classified as “possibly carcinogenic to humans (Group 2B)” by the International Agency for Research on Cancer,¹³ but screening of SLS for this substance prior to its use in commercial products is standard.

Sulfates are inexpensive detergents that are responsible for lather formation in shampoos as well as in many household cleaning agents.⁵ Sulfates, similar to all anionic surfactants, are characterized by a negatively charged hydrophilic polar group. The best-known and most commonly used anionic surfactants are sulfated fatty alcohols, alkyl sulfates, and their polyethoxylated analogues alkyl ether sulfates.^5,6 Sodium lauryl sulfate (also known as sodium laurilsulfate or sodium dodecyl sulfate) is the most common of them all, found in shampoo and conditioner formulations. Ammonium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate are other sulfates commonly used in shampoos and household cleansing products. Sodium lauryl sulfate is a nonvolatile, water-soluble compound. Its partition coefficient (P₀), a measure of a substance’s hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, is low at 1.6, making it a rather hydrophilic substance.⁶ Hydrophilic substances tend to have low bioaccumulation profiles in the body. Additionally, SLS is readily biodegradable. It can be derived from both synthetic and naturally occurring sources; for example, palm kernel oil, petrolatum, and coconut oil are all sources of lauric acid, the starting ingredient used to synthesize SLS. Sodium lauryl sulfate is created by reacting lauryl alcohol with sulfur trioxide gas, followed by neutralization with sodium carbonate (also a naturally occurring compound).⁶ Sodium lauryl sulfate and other sulfate-containing shampoos widely replaced the usage of traditional soaps formulated from animal or vegetable fats, as these latter formations created a film of insoluble calcium salts on the hair strands upon contact with water, resulting in tangled, dull-appearing hair.⁵ Additionally, sulfates were preferred to the alkaline pH of traditional soap, which can be harsh on hair strands and cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes.¹⁴ Because they are highly water soluble, sulfates enable the formulation of clear shampoos. They exhibit remarkable cleaning properties and lather formation.^5,14

Because sulfates are potent surfactants, they can remove dirt and debris as well as naturally produced healthy oils from the hair and scalp. As a result, sulfates can leave the hair feeling dry and stripped of moisture.^4,5 Sulfates are used as the primary detergents in the formulation of deep-cleaning shampoos, which are designed for people who accumulate a heavy buildup of dirt, sebum, and debris from frequent use of styling products. Due to their potent detergency, these shampoos typically are not used on a daily basis but rather at longer intervals.¹⁵ A downside to sulfates is that they can have cosmetically unpleasant properties, which can be compensated for by including appropriate softening additives in shampoo formulations.⁴ A number of anionic surfactants such as olefin sulfonate, alkyl sulfosuccinate, acyl peptides, and alkyl ether carboxylates are well tolerated by the skin and are used together with other anionic and amphoteric surfactants to optimize shampoo properties. Alternatively, sulfate-free shampoos are cleansers compounded by the removal of the anionic group and switched for surfactants with less detergency.^4,5

Preservatives and Parabens

Parabens refer to a group of esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid commonly used as preservatives in foods, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics whose widespread use dates back to 1923.¹⁶ Concerns over the presence of parabens in shampoos and other cosmetics have been raised by patients for their reputed estrogenic and antiandrogenic effects and suspected involvement in carcinogenesis via endocrine modulation.^16,17 In in vitro studies done on yeast assays, parabens have shown weak estrogenic activity that increases in proportion to both the length and increased branching of the alkyl side chains in the paraben’s molecular structure.¹⁸ They are 10,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol. In in vivo animal studies, parabens show weak estrogenic activity and are 100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.¹⁸ 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid, a common metabolite, showed no estrogenic activity when tested both in vitro and in vivo.¹⁹ Some concerning research has implicated a link between parabens used in underarm cosmetics, such as deodorants and antiperspirants, and breast cancer¹⁶; however, the studies have been conflicting, and there is simply not enough data to assert that parabens cause breast cancer.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel first reviewed parabens in 1984 and concluded that “methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the present practices of use.”²⁰ They extended this statement to include isopropylparaben and isobutylparaben in a later review.²¹ In 2005, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (now known as the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety) in Europe stated that methylparaben and ethylparaben can be used at levels up to 0.4% in products.²² This decision was reached due to reports of decreased sperm counts and testosterone levels in male juvenile rats exposed to these parabens; however, these reults were not successfully replicated in larger studies.^16,22 In 2010, the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety revisited its stance on parabens, and they then revised their recommendations to say that concentrations of propylparaben and butylparaben should not exceed concentrations of 0.19%, based on “the conservative choice for the calculation of the [Margin-of-Safety] of butyl- and propylparaben.”²³ However, in 2011 the use of propylparaben and butylparaben was banned in Denmark for cosmetic products used in children 3 years or younger,¹⁶ and the European Commission subsequently amended their directive in 2014, banning isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, phenylparaben, benzylparaben, and pentylparaben due to lack of data available to evaluate the human risk of these products.²⁴

Contrary to the trends in Europe, there currently are no regulations against the use of parabens in shampoos or other cosmetics in the United States. The American Cancer Society found that there is no evidence to suggest that the current levels of parabens in cosmetic products (eg, antiperspirants) increase one’s risk of breast cancer.²⁵ Parabens are readily absorbed into the body both transdermally and through ingestion but also are believed to be rapidly transformed into harmless and nonspecific metabolites; they are readily metabolized by the liver and excreted in urine, and there is no measured accumulation in tissues.¹⁷

Parabens continue to be the most widely used preservatives in personal care products, usually in conjunction with other preservatives. Parabens are good biocides; short-chain esters (eg, methylparabens, ethylparabens) are effective against gram-positive bacteria and are weakly effective against gram-negative bacteria. Long-chain paraben esters (eg, propylparabens, butylparabens) are effective against mold and yeast. The addition of other preservatives creates a broad spectrum of antimicrobial defense in consumer products. Other preservatives include formaldehyde releasers or phenoxyethanol, as well as chelating agents such as EDTA, which improve the stability of these cosmetic products when exposed to air.¹⁶ Parabens are naturally occurring substances found in foods such as blueberries, barley, strawberries, yeast, olives, and grapes. As a colorless, odorless, and inexpensive substance, their use has been heavily favored in cosmetic and food products.¹⁶

Shampoo Alternatives and the No-Poo Method

Although research has not demonstrated any long-term danger to using shampoo, certain chemicals found in shampoos have the potential to irritate the scalp. Commonly cited allergens in shampoos include cocamidopropyl betaine, propylene glycol, vitamin E (tocopherol), parabens, and benzophenones.⁵ Additionally, the rising use of formaldehyde-releasing preservatives and isothiazolinones due to mounting pressures to move away from parabens has led to an increase in cases of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD).¹⁶ However, the irritability (rather than allergenicity) of these substances often is established during patch testing, a method of detecting delayed-type allergic reactions, which is important to note because patch testing requires a substance to be exposed to the skin for 24 to 48 hours, whereas exposure to shampoo ingredients may last a matter of minutes at most and occur in lesser concentrations because the ingredients are diluted by water in the rinsing process. Given these differences, it is unlikely that a patient would develop a true allergic response from regular shampoo use. Nevertheless, in patients who are already sensitized, exposure could conceivably trigger ACD, and patients must be cognizant of the composition of their shampoos.¹⁶

The no-poo method refers to the avoidance of commercial shampoo products when cleansing the hair and scalp and encompasses different methods of cleansing the hair, such as the use of household items (eg, baking soda, apple cider vinegar [ACV]), the use of conditioners to wash the hair (also known as conditioner-only washing or co-washing), treating the scalp with tea tree oil, or simply rinsing the hair with water. Proponents of the no-poo method believe that abstaining from shampoo use leads to healthier hair, retained natural oils, and less exposure to supposedly dangerous chemicals such as parabens or sulfates.^2,3,26-28 However, there are no known studies in the literature that assess or support the hypotheses of the no-poo method.

Baking Soda and ACV
Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is a substance commonly found in the average household. It has been used in toothpaste formulas and cosmetic products and is known for its acid-neutralizing properties. Baking soda has been shown to have some antifungal and viricidal properties through an unknown mechanism of action.²⁸ It has gained popularity for its use as a means of reducing the appearance of excessive greasiness of the hair shafts. Users also have reported that when washing their hair with baking soda, they are able to achieve a clean scalp and hair that feels soft to the touch.^2,3,26,27,29 Despite these reports, users must beware of using baking soda without adequately diluting it with water. Baking soda is a known alkaline irritant.^26,30 With a pH of 9, baking soda causes the cuticle layer of the hair fiber to open, increasing the capacity for water absorption. Water penetrates the scales that open, breaking the hydrogen bonds of the keratin molecule.³¹ Keratin is a spiral helical molecule that keeps its shape due to hydrogen, disulfide, and ionic bonds, as well as Van der Waals force.³⁰ Hydrolysis of these bonds due to exposure to baking soda lowers the elasticity of the hair and increases the negative electrical net charge of the hair fiber surface, which leads to increased friction between fibers, cuticle damage, hair fragility, and fiber breakage.^32,33

Apple cider vinegar is an apple-derived acetic acid solution with a pH ranging from 3.1 to 5.²⁸ The pH range of ACV is considered to be ideal for hair by no-poo proponents, as it is similar to the natural pH of the scalp. Its acidic properties are responsible for its antimicrobial abilities, particularly its effectiveness against gram-negative bacteria.³⁰ The acetic acid of ACV can partially interrupt oil interfaces, which contributes to its mild ability to remove product residue and scalp buildup from the hair shaft; the acetic acid also tightens the cuticles on hair fibers.³³ Apple cider vinegar is used as a means of cleansing the hair and scalp by no-poo proponents^2,3,26; other uses for ACV include using it as a rinse following washing and/or conditioning of the hair or as a means of preserving color in color-treated hair. There also is evidence that ACV may have antifungal properties.²⁸ However, consumers must be aware that if it is not diluted in water, ACV may be too caustic for direct application to the hair and may lead to damage; it can be irritating to eyes, mucus membranes, and acutely inflamed skin. Also, vinegar rinses used on processed or chemically damaged hair may lead to increased hair fragility.^2,3

Hair fibers have a pH of 3.67, while the scalp has a pH between 4.5 and 6.2. This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to viruses, bacteria, and other potential contaminants.³³ Studies have shown that the pH of skin increases in proportion to the pH of the cleanser used.³⁴ Therefore, due to the naturally acidic pH of the scalp, acid-balanced shampoos generally are recommended. Shampoos should not have a pH higher than 5.5, as hair shafts can swell due to alkalinization, which can be prevented by pH balancing the shampoo through the addition of an acidic substance (eg, glycolic acid, citric acid) to lower the pH down to approximately 5.5. Apple cider vinegar often is used for this purpose. However, one study revealed that 82% of shampoos already have an acidic pH.³⁴

Conditioner-Only Washing (Co-washing)
Conditioner-only washing, or co-washing, is a widely practiced method of hair grooming. It is popular among individuals who find that commercial shampoos strip too much of the natural hair oils away, leaving the hair rough or unmanageable. Co-washing is not harmful to the hair; however, the molecular structure and function of a conditioner and that of a shampoo are very different.^5,35,36 Conditioners are not formulated to remove dirt and buildup in the hair but rather to add substances to the hair, and thus cannot provide extensive cleansing of the hair and scalp; therefore, it is inappropriate to use co-washing as a replacement for shampooing. Quaternary conditioning agents are an exception because they contain amphoteric detergents comprised of both anionic and cationic groups, which allow them both the ability to remove dirt and sebum with its anionic group, typically found in shampoos, as well as the ability to coat and condition the hair due to the high affinity of the cationic group for the negatively charged hair fibers.^36,37 Amphoteric detergents are commonly found in 2-in-1 conditioning cleansers, among other ingredients, such as hydrolyzed animal proteins that temporarily plug surface defects on the hair fiber, and dimethicone, a synthetic oil that creates a thin film over the hair shaft, increasing shine and manageability. Of note, these conditioning shampoos are ideal for individuals with minimal product buildup on the hair and scalp and are not adequate scalp cleansers for individuals who either wash their hair infrequently or who regularly use hairstyling products.^36,37

Tea Tree Oil
Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from the Melaleuca alternifolia plant of the Myrtaceae family. It is native to the coast of northeastern Australia. A holy grail of natural cosmetics, tea tree oil is widely known for its antiviral, antifungal, and antiseptic properties.³⁸ Although not used as a stand-alone cleanser, it is often added to a number of cosmetic products, including shampoos and co-washes. Although deemed safe for topical use, it has been shown to be quite toxic when ingested. Symptoms of ingestion include nausea, vomiting, hallucinations, and coma. The common concern with tea tree oil is its ability to cause ACD. In particular, it is believed that the oxidation products of tea tree oil are allergenic rather than the tea tree oil itself. The evaluation of tea tree oil as a potential contact allergen has been quite difficult; it consists of more than 100 distinct compounds and is often mislabeled, or does not meet the guidelines of the International Organization for Standardization. Nonetheless, the prevalence of ACD due to tea tree oil is low (approximately 1.4%). Despite its low prevalence, tea tree oil should remain in the differential as an ACD-inducing agent. Patch testing with the patient’s supply of tea tree oil is advised when possible.³⁸

Conclusion

It is customary that the ingredients used in shampoos undergo periodic testing and monitoring to assure the safety of their use. Although it is encouraging that patients are proactive in their efforts to stay abreast of the literature, it is still important that cosmetic scientists, dermatologists, and other experts remain at the forefront of educating the public about these substances. Not doing so can result in the propagation of misinformation and unnecessary fears, which can lead to the adaptation of unhygienic or even unsafe hair care practices. As dermatologists, we must ensure that patients are educated about the benefits and hazards of off-label use of household ingredients to the extent that evidence-based medicine permits. Patients must be informed that not all synthetic substances are harmful, and likewise not all naturally occurring substances are safe.

Shampoo is a staple in hair grooming that is ever-evolving along with cultural trends. The global shampoo market is expected to reach an estimated value of $25.73 billion by 2019. A major driver of this upward trend in market growth is the increasing demand for natural and organic hair shampoos.¹ Society today has a growing fixation on healthy living practices, and as of late, the ingredients in shampoos and other cosmetic products have become one of the latest targets in the health-consciousness craze. In the age of the Internet where information—and misinformation—is widely accessible and dispersed, the general public often strives to self-educate on specialized matters that are out of their expertise. As a result, individuals have developed an aversion to using certain shampoos out of fear that the ingredients, often referred to as “chemicals” by patients due to their complex names, are unnatural and therefore unhealthy.^1,2 Product developers are working to meet the demand by reformulating shampoos with labels that indicate sulfate free or paraben free, despite the lack of proof that these formulations are an improvement over traditional approaches to hair health. Additionally, alternative methods of cleansing the hair and scalp, also known as the no-shampoo or “no-poo” method, have begun to gain popularity.^2,3

It is essential that dermatologists acknowledge the concerns that their patients have about common shampoo ingredients to dispel the myths that may misinform patient decision-making. This article reviews the controversy surrounding the use of sulfates and parabens in shampoos as well as commonly used shampoo alternatives. Due to the increased prevalence of dry hair shafts in the skin of color population, especially black women, this group is particularly interested in products that will minimize breakage and dryness of the hair. To that end, this population has great interest in the removal of chemical ingredients that may cause damage to the hair shafts, despite the lack of data to support sulfates and paraben damage to hair shafts or scalp skin. Blogs and uninformed hairstylists may propagate these beliefs in a group of consumers who are desperate for new approaches to hair fragility and breakage.

Surfactants and Sulfates

The cleansing ability of a shampoo depends on the surface activity of its detergents. Surface-active ingredients, or surfactants, reduce the surface tension between water and dirt, thus facilitating the removal of environmental dirt from the hair and scalp,⁴ which is achieved by a molecular structure containing both a hydrophilic and a lipophilic group. Sebum and dirt are bound by the lipophilic ends of the surfactant, becoming the center of a micelle structure with the hydrophilic molecule ends pointing outward. Dirt particles become water soluble and are removed from the scalp and hair shaft upon rinsing with water.⁴

Surfactants are classified according to the electric charge of the hydrophilic polar group as either anionic, cationic, amphoteric (zwitterionic), or nonionic.⁵ Each possesses different hair conditioning and cleansing qualities, and multiple surfactants are used in shampoos in differing ratios to accommodate different hair types. In most shampoos, the base consists of anionic and amphoteric surfactants. Depending on individual product requirements, nonionic and cationic surfactants are used to either modify the effects of the surfactants or as conditioning agents.^4,5

One subcategory of surfactants that receives much attention is the group of anionic surfactants known as sulfates. Sulfates, particularly sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), recently have developed a negative reputation as cosmetic ingredients, as reports from various unscientific sources have labeled them as hazardous to one’s health; SLS has been described as a skin and scalp irritant, has been linked to cataract formation, and has even been wrongly labeled as carcinogenic.⁶ The origins of some of these claims are not clear, though they likely arose from the misinterpretation of complex scientific studies that are easily accessible to laypeople. The link between SLS and ocular irritation or cataract formation is a good illustration of this unsubstantiated fear. A study by Green et al⁷ showed that corneal exposure to extremely high concentrations of SLS following physical or chemical damage to the eye can result in a slowed healing process. The results of this study have since been wrongly quoted to state that SLS-containing products lead to blindness or severe corneal damage.⁸ A different study tested for possible ocular irritation in vivo by submerging the lens of an eye into a 20% SLS solution, which accurately approximates the concentration of SLS in rinse-off consumer products.⁹ However, to achieve ocular irritation, the eyes of laboratory animals were exposed to SLS constantly for 14 days, which would not occur in practical use.⁹ Similarly, a third study achieved cataract formation in a laboratory only by immersing the lens of an eye into a highly concentrated solution of SLS.¹⁰ Such studies are not appropriate representations of how SLS-containing products are used by consumers and have unfortunately been vulnerable to misinterpretation by the general public.

There is no known study that has shown SLS to be carcinogenic. One possible origin of this idea may be from the wrongful interpretation of studies that used SLS as a vehicle substance to test agents that were deemed to be carcinogenic.¹¹ Another possible source of the idea that SLS is carcinogenic comes from its association with 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of the synthesis of certain sulfates such as sodium laureth sulfate due to a process known as ethoxylation.^6,12 Although SLS does not undergo this process in its formation and is not linked to 1,4-dioxane, there is potential for cross-contamination of SLS with 1,4-dioxane, which cannot be overlooked. 1,4-Dioxane is classified as “possibly carcinogenic to humans (Group 2B)” by the International Agency for Research on Cancer,¹³ but screening of SLS for this substance prior to its use in commercial products is standard.

Sulfates are inexpensive detergents that are responsible for lather formation in shampoos as well as in many household cleaning agents.⁵ Sulfates, similar to all anionic surfactants, are characterized by a negatively charged hydrophilic polar group. The best-known and most commonly used anionic surfactants are sulfated fatty alcohols, alkyl sulfates, and their polyethoxylated analogues alkyl ether sulfates.^5,6 Sodium lauryl sulfate (also known as sodium laurilsulfate or sodium dodecyl sulfate) is the most common of them all, found in shampoo and conditioner formulations. Ammonium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate are other sulfates commonly used in shampoos and household cleansing products. Sodium lauryl sulfate is a nonvolatile, water-soluble compound. Its partition coefficient (P₀), a measure of a substance’s hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, is low at 1.6, making it a rather hydrophilic substance.⁶ Hydrophilic substances tend to have low bioaccumulation profiles in the body. Additionally, SLS is readily biodegradable. It can be derived from both synthetic and naturally occurring sources; for example, palm kernel oil, petrolatum, and coconut oil are all sources of lauric acid, the starting ingredient used to synthesize SLS. Sodium lauryl sulfate is created by reacting lauryl alcohol with sulfur trioxide gas, followed by neutralization with sodium carbonate (also a naturally occurring compound).⁶ Sodium lauryl sulfate and other sulfate-containing shampoos widely replaced the usage of traditional soaps formulated from animal or vegetable fats, as these latter formations created a film of insoluble calcium salts on the hair strands upon contact with water, resulting in tangled, dull-appearing hair.⁵ Additionally, sulfates were preferred to the alkaline pH of traditional soap, which can be harsh on hair strands and cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes.¹⁴ Because they are highly water soluble, sulfates enable the formulation of clear shampoos. They exhibit remarkable cleaning properties and lather formation.^5,14

Because sulfates are potent surfactants, they can remove dirt and debris as well as naturally produced healthy oils from the hair and scalp. As a result, sulfates can leave the hair feeling dry and stripped of moisture.^4,5 Sulfates are used as the primary detergents in the formulation of deep-cleaning shampoos, which are designed for people who accumulate a heavy buildup of dirt, sebum, and debris from frequent use of styling products. Due to their potent detergency, these shampoos typically are not used on a daily basis but rather at longer intervals.¹⁵ A downside to sulfates is that they can have cosmetically unpleasant properties, which can be compensated for by including appropriate softening additives in shampoo formulations.⁴ A number of anionic surfactants such as olefin sulfonate, alkyl sulfosuccinate, acyl peptides, and alkyl ether carboxylates are well tolerated by the skin and are used together with other anionic and amphoteric surfactants to optimize shampoo properties. Alternatively, sulfate-free shampoos are cleansers compounded by the removal of the anionic group and switched for surfactants with less detergency.^4,5

Preservatives and Parabens

Parabens refer to a group of esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid commonly used as preservatives in foods, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics whose widespread use dates back to 1923.¹⁶ Concerns over the presence of parabens in shampoos and other cosmetics have been raised by patients for their reputed estrogenic and antiandrogenic effects and suspected involvement in carcinogenesis via endocrine modulation.^16,17 In in vitro studies done on yeast assays, parabens have shown weak estrogenic activity that increases in proportion to both the length and increased branching of the alkyl side chains in the paraben’s molecular structure.¹⁸ They are 10,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol. In in vivo animal studies, parabens show weak estrogenic activity and are 100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.¹⁸ 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid, a common metabolite, showed no estrogenic activity when tested both in vitro and in vivo.¹⁹ Some concerning research has implicated a link between parabens used in underarm cosmetics, such as deodorants and antiperspirants, and breast cancer¹⁶; however, the studies have been conflicting, and there is simply not enough data to assert that parabens cause breast cancer.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel first reviewed parabens in 1984 and concluded that “methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the present practices of use.”²⁰ They extended this statement to include isopropylparaben and isobutylparaben in a later review.²¹ In 2005, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (now known as the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety) in Europe stated that methylparaben and ethylparaben can be used at levels up to 0.4% in products.²² This decision was reached due to reports of decreased sperm counts and testosterone levels in male juvenile rats exposed to these parabens; however, these reults were not successfully replicated in larger studies.^16,22 In 2010, the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety revisited its stance on parabens, and they then revised their recommendations to say that concentrations of propylparaben and butylparaben should not exceed concentrations of 0.19%, based on “the conservative choice for the calculation of the [Margin-of-Safety] of butyl- and propylparaben.”²³ However, in 2011 the use of propylparaben and butylparaben was banned in Denmark for cosmetic products used in children 3 years or younger,¹⁶ and the European Commission subsequently amended their directive in 2014, banning isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, phenylparaben, benzylparaben, and pentylparaben due to lack of data available to evaluate the human risk of these products.²⁴

Contrary to the trends in Europe, there currently are no regulations against the use of parabens in shampoos or other cosmetics in the United States. The American Cancer Society found that there is no evidence to suggest that the current levels of parabens in cosmetic products (eg, antiperspirants) increase one’s risk of breast cancer.²⁵ Parabens are readily absorbed into the body both transdermally and through ingestion but also are believed to be rapidly transformed into harmless and nonspecific metabolites; they are readily metabolized by the liver and excreted in urine, and there is no measured accumulation in tissues.¹⁷

Parabens continue to be the most widely used preservatives in personal care products, usually in conjunction with other preservatives. Parabens are good biocides; short-chain esters (eg, methylparabens, ethylparabens) are effective against gram-positive bacteria and are weakly effective against gram-negative bacteria. Long-chain paraben esters (eg, propylparabens, butylparabens) are effective against mold and yeast. The addition of other preservatives creates a broad spectrum of antimicrobial defense in consumer products. Other preservatives include formaldehyde releasers or phenoxyethanol, as well as chelating agents such as EDTA, which improve the stability of these cosmetic products when exposed to air.¹⁶ Parabens are naturally occurring substances found in foods such as blueberries, barley, strawberries, yeast, olives, and grapes. As a colorless, odorless, and inexpensive substance, their use has been heavily favored in cosmetic and food products.¹⁶

Shampoo Alternatives and the No-Poo Method

Although research has not demonstrated any long-term danger to using shampoo, certain chemicals found in shampoos have the potential to irritate the scalp. Commonly cited allergens in shampoos include cocamidopropyl betaine, propylene glycol, vitamin E (tocopherol), parabens, and benzophenones.⁵ Additionally, the rising use of formaldehyde-releasing preservatives and isothiazolinones due to mounting pressures to move away from parabens has led to an increase in cases of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD).¹⁶ However, the irritability (rather than allergenicity) of these substances often is established during patch testing, a method of detecting delayed-type allergic reactions, which is important to note because patch testing requires a substance to be exposed to the skin for 24 to 48 hours, whereas exposure to shampoo ingredients may last a matter of minutes at most and occur in lesser concentrations because the ingredients are diluted by water in the rinsing process. Given these differences, it is unlikely that a patient would develop a true allergic response from regular shampoo use. Nevertheless, in patients who are already sensitized, exposure could conceivably trigger ACD, and patients must be cognizant of the composition of their shampoos.¹⁶

The no-poo method refers to the avoidance of commercial shampoo products when cleansing the hair and scalp and encompasses different methods of cleansing the hair, such as the use of household items (eg, baking soda, apple cider vinegar [ACV]), the use of conditioners to wash the hair (also known as conditioner-only washing or co-washing), treating the scalp with tea tree oil, or simply rinsing the hair with water. Proponents of the no-poo method believe that abstaining from shampoo use leads to healthier hair, retained natural oils, and less exposure to supposedly dangerous chemicals such as parabens or sulfates.^2,3,26-28 However, there are no known studies in the literature that assess or support the hypotheses of the no-poo method.

Baking Soda and ACV
Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is a substance commonly found in the average household. It has been used in toothpaste formulas and cosmetic products and is known for its acid-neutralizing properties. Baking soda has been shown to have some antifungal and viricidal properties through an unknown mechanism of action.²⁸ It has gained popularity for its use as a means of reducing the appearance of excessive greasiness of the hair shafts. Users also have reported that when washing their hair with baking soda, they are able to achieve a clean scalp and hair that feels soft to the touch.^2,3,26,27,29 Despite these reports, users must beware of using baking soda without adequately diluting it with water. Baking soda is a known alkaline irritant.^26,30 With a pH of 9, baking soda causes the cuticle layer of the hair fiber to open, increasing the capacity for water absorption. Water penetrates the scales that open, breaking the hydrogen bonds of the keratin molecule.³¹ Keratin is a spiral helical molecule that keeps its shape due to hydrogen, disulfide, and ionic bonds, as well as Van der Waals force.³⁰ Hydrolysis of these bonds due to exposure to baking soda lowers the elasticity of the hair and increases the negative electrical net charge of the hair fiber surface, which leads to increased friction between fibers, cuticle damage, hair fragility, and fiber breakage.^32,33

Apple cider vinegar is an apple-derived acetic acid solution with a pH ranging from 3.1 to 5.²⁸ The pH range of ACV is considered to be ideal for hair by no-poo proponents, as it is similar to the natural pH of the scalp. Its acidic properties are responsible for its antimicrobial abilities, particularly its effectiveness against gram-negative bacteria.³⁰ The acetic acid of ACV can partially interrupt oil interfaces, which contributes to its mild ability to remove product residue and scalp buildup from the hair shaft; the acetic acid also tightens the cuticles on hair fibers.³³ Apple cider vinegar is used as a means of cleansing the hair and scalp by no-poo proponents^2,3,26; other uses for ACV include using it as a rinse following washing and/or conditioning of the hair or as a means of preserving color in color-treated hair. There also is evidence that ACV may have antifungal properties.²⁸ However, consumers must be aware that if it is not diluted in water, ACV may be too caustic for direct application to the hair and may lead to damage; it can be irritating to eyes, mucus membranes, and acutely inflamed skin. Also, vinegar rinses used on processed or chemically damaged hair may lead to increased hair fragility.^2,3

Hair fibers have a pH of 3.67, while the scalp has a pH between 4.5 and 6.2. This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to viruses, bacteria, and other potential contaminants.³³ Studies have shown that the pH of skin increases in proportion to the pH of the cleanser used.³⁴ Therefore, due to the naturally acidic pH of the scalp, acid-balanced shampoos generally are recommended. Shampoos should not have a pH higher than 5.5, as hair shafts can swell due to alkalinization, which can be prevented by pH balancing the shampoo through the addition of an acidic substance (eg, glycolic acid, citric acid) to lower the pH down to approximately 5.5. Apple cider vinegar often is used for this purpose. However, one study revealed that 82% of shampoos already have an acidic pH.³⁴

Conditioner-Only Washing (Co-washing)
Conditioner-only washing, or co-washing, is a widely practiced method of hair grooming. It is popular among individuals who find that commercial shampoos strip too much of the natural hair oils away, leaving the hair rough or unmanageable. Co-washing is not harmful to the hair; however, the molecular structure and function of a conditioner and that of a shampoo are very different.^5,35,36 Conditioners are not formulated to remove dirt and buildup in the hair but rather to add substances to the hair, and thus cannot provide extensive cleansing of the hair and scalp; therefore, it is inappropriate to use co-washing as a replacement for shampooing. Quaternary conditioning agents are an exception because they contain amphoteric detergents comprised of both anionic and cationic groups, which allow them both the ability to remove dirt and sebum with its anionic group, typically found in shampoos, as well as the ability to coat and condition the hair due to the high affinity of the cationic group for the negatively charged hair fibers.^36,37 Amphoteric detergents are commonly found in 2-in-1 conditioning cleansers, among other ingredients, such as hydrolyzed animal proteins that temporarily plug surface defects on the hair fiber, and dimethicone, a synthetic oil that creates a thin film over the hair shaft, increasing shine and manageability. Of note, these conditioning shampoos are ideal for individuals with minimal product buildup on the hair and scalp and are not adequate scalp cleansers for individuals who either wash their hair infrequently or who regularly use hairstyling products.^36,37

Tea Tree Oil
Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from the Melaleuca alternifolia plant of the Myrtaceae family. It is native to the coast of northeastern Australia. A holy grail of natural cosmetics, tea tree oil is widely known for its antiviral, antifungal, and antiseptic properties.³⁸ Although not used as a stand-alone cleanser, it is often added to a number of cosmetic products, including shampoos and co-washes. Although deemed safe for topical use, it has been shown to be quite toxic when ingested. Symptoms of ingestion include nausea, vomiting, hallucinations, and coma. The common concern with tea tree oil is its ability to cause ACD. In particular, it is believed that the oxidation products of tea tree oil are allergenic rather than the tea tree oil itself. The evaluation of tea tree oil as a potential contact allergen has been quite difficult; it consists of more than 100 distinct compounds and is often mislabeled, or does not meet the guidelines of the International Organization for Standardization. Nonetheless, the prevalence of ACD due to tea tree oil is low (approximately 1.4%). Despite its low prevalence, tea tree oil should remain in the differential as an ACD-inducing agent. Patch testing with the patient’s supply of tea tree oil is advised when possible.³⁸

Conclusion

It is customary that the ingredients used in shampoos undergo periodic testing and monitoring to assure the safety of their use. Although it is encouraging that patients are proactive in their efforts to stay abreast of the literature, it is still important that cosmetic scientists, dermatologists, and other experts remain at the forefront of educating the public about these substances. Not doing so can result in the propagation of misinformation and unnecessary fears, which can lead to the adaptation of unhygienic or even unsafe hair care practices. As dermatologists, we must ensure that patients are educated about the benefits and hazards of off-label use of household ingredients to the extent that evidence-based medicine permits. Patients must be informed that not all synthetic substances are harmful, and likewise not all naturally occurring substances are safe.

Shampoo is a staple in hair grooming that is ever-evolving along with cultural trends. The global shampoo market is expected to reach an estimated value of $25.73 billion by 2019. A major driver of this upward trend in market growth is the increasing demand for natural and organic hair shampoos.¹ Society today has a growing fixation on healthy living practices, and as of late, the ingredients in shampoos and other cosmetic products have become one of the latest targets in the health-consciousness craze. In the age of the Internet where information—and misinformation—is widely accessible and dispersed, the general public often strives to self-educate on specialized matters that are out of their expertise. As a result, individuals have developed an aversion to using certain shampoos out of fear that the ingredients, often referred to as “chemicals” by patients due to their complex names, are unnatural and therefore unhealthy.^1,2 Product developers are working to meet the demand by reformulating shampoos with labels that indicate sulfate free or paraben free, despite the lack of proof that these formulations are an improvement over traditional approaches to hair health. Additionally, alternative methods of cleansing the hair and scalp, also known as the no-shampoo or “no-poo” method, have begun to gain popularity.^2,3

It is essential that dermatologists acknowledge the concerns that their patients have about common shampoo ingredients to dispel the myths that may misinform patient decision-making. This article reviews the controversy surrounding the use of sulfates and parabens in shampoos as well as commonly used shampoo alternatives. Due to the increased prevalence of dry hair shafts in the skin of color population, especially black women, this group is particularly interested in products that will minimize breakage and dryness of the hair. To that end, this population has great interest in the removal of chemical ingredients that may cause damage to the hair shafts, despite the lack of data to support sulfates and paraben damage to hair shafts or scalp skin. Blogs and uninformed hairstylists may propagate these beliefs in a group of consumers who are desperate for new approaches to hair fragility and breakage.

Surfactants and Sulfates

The cleansing ability of a shampoo depends on the surface activity of its detergents. Surface-active ingredients, or surfactants, reduce the surface tension between water and dirt, thus facilitating the removal of environmental dirt from the hair and scalp,⁴ which is achieved by a molecular structure containing both a hydrophilic and a lipophilic group. Sebum and dirt are bound by the lipophilic ends of the surfactant, becoming the center of a micelle structure with the hydrophilic molecule ends pointing outward. Dirt particles become water soluble and are removed from the scalp and hair shaft upon rinsing with water.⁴

Surfactants are classified according to the electric charge of the hydrophilic polar group as either anionic, cationic, amphoteric (zwitterionic), or nonionic.⁵ Each possesses different hair conditioning and cleansing qualities, and multiple surfactants are used in shampoos in differing ratios to accommodate different hair types. In most shampoos, the base consists of anionic and amphoteric surfactants. Depending on individual product requirements, nonionic and cationic surfactants are used to either modify the effects of the surfactants or as conditioning agents.^4,5

One subcategory of surfactants that receives much attention is the group of anionic surfactants known as sulfates. Sulfates, particularly sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), recently have developed a negative reputation as cosmetic ingredients, as reports from various unscientific sources have labeled them as hazardous to one’s health; SLS has been described as a skin and scalp irritant, has been linked to cataract formation, and has even been wrongly labeled as carcinogenic.⁶ The origins of some of these claims are not clear, though they likely arose from the misinterpretation of complex scientific studies that are easily accessible to laypeople. The link between SLS and ocular irritation or cataract formation is a good illustration of this unsubstantiated fear. A study by Green et al⁷ showed that corneal exposure to extremely high concentrations of SLS following physical or chemical damage to the eye can result in a slowed healing process. The results of this study have since been wrongly quoted to state that SLS-containing products lead to blindness or severe corneal damage.⁸ A different study tested for possible ocular irritation in vivo by submerging the lens of an eye into a 20% SLS solution, which accurately approximates the concentration of SLS in rinse-off consumer products.⁹ However, to achieve ocular irritation, the eyes of laboratory animals were exposed to SLS constantly for 14 days, which would not occur in practical use.⁹ Similarly, a third study achieved cataract formation in a laboratory only by immersing the lens of an eye into a highly concentrated solution of SLS.¹⁰ Such studies are not appropriate representations of how SLS-containing products are used by consumers and have unfortunately been vulnerable to misinterpretation by the general public.

There is no known study that has shown SLS to be carcinogenic. One possible origin of this idea may be from the wrongful interpretation of studies that used SLS as a vehicle substance to test agents that were deemed to be carcinogenic.¹¹ Another possible source of the idea that SLS is carcinogenic comes from its association with 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of the synthesis of certain sulfates such as sodium laureth sulfate due to a process known as ethoxylation.^6,12 Although SLS does not undergo this process in its formation and is not linked to 1,4-dioxane, there is potential for cross-contamination of SLS with 1,4-dioxane, which cannot be overlooked. 1,4-Dioxane is classified as “possibly carcinogenic to humans (Group 2B)” by the International Agency for Research on Cancer,¹³ but screening of SLS for this substance prior to its use in commercial products is standard.

Sulfates are inexpensive detergents that are responsible for lather formation in shampoos as well as in many household cleaning agents.⁵ Sulfates, similar to all anionic surfactants, are characterized by a negatively charged hydrophilic polar group. The best-known and most commonly used anionic surfactants are sulfated fatty alcohols, alkyl sulfates, and their polyethoxylated analogues alkyl ether sulfates.^5,6 Sodium lauryl sulfate (also known as sodium laurilsulfate or sodium dodecyl sulfate) is the most common of them all, found in shampoo and conditioner formulations. Ammonium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate are other sulfates commonly used in shampoos and household cleansing products. Sodium lauryl sulfate is a nonvolatile, water-soluble compound. Its partition coefficient (P₀), a measure of a substance’s hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, is low at 1.6, making it a rather hydrophilic substance.⁶ Hydrophilic substances tend to have low bioaccumulation profiles in the body. Additionally, SLS is readily biodegradable. It can be derived from both synthetic and naturally occurring sources; for example, palm kernel oil, petrolatum, and coconut oil are all sources of lauric acid, the starting ingredient used to synthesize SLS. Sodium lauryl sulfate is created by reacting lauryl alcohol with sulfur trioxide gas, followed by neutralization with sodium carbonate (also a naturally occurring compound).⁶ Sodium lauryl sulfate and other sulfate-containing shampoos widely replaced the usage of traditional soaps formulated from animal or vegetable fats, as these latter formations created a film of insoluble calcium salts on the hair strands upon contact with water, resulting in tangled, dull-appearing hair.⁵ Additionally, sulfates were preferred to the alkaline pH of traditional soap, which can be harsh on hair strands and cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes.¹⁴ Because they are highly water soluble, sulfates enable the formulation of clear shampoos. They exhibit remarkable cleaning properties and lather formation.^5,14

Because sulfates are potent surfactants, they can remove dirt and debris as well as naturally produced healthy oils from the hair and scalp. As a result, sulfates can leave the hair feeling dry and stripped of moisture.^4,5 Sulfates are used as the primary detergents in the formulation of deep-cleaning shampoos, which are designed for people who accumulate a heavy buildup of dirt, sebum, and debris from frequent use of styling products. Due to their potent detergency, these shampoos typically are not used on a daily basis but rather at longer intervals.¹⁵ A downside to sulfates is that they can have cosmetically unpleasant properties, which can be compensated for by including appropriate softening additives in shampoo formulations.⁴ A number of anionic surfactants such as olefin sulfonate, alkyl sulfosuccinate, acyl peptides, and alkyl ether carboxylates are well tolerated by the skin and are used together with other anionic and amphoteric surfactants to optimize shampoo properties. Alternatively, sulfate-free shampoos are cleansers compounded by the removal of the anionic group and switched for surfactants with less detergency.^4,5

Preservatives and Parabens

Parabens refer to a group of esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid commonly used as preservatives in foods, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics whose widespread use dates back to 1923.¹⁶ Concerns over the presence of parabens in shampoos and other cosmetics have been raised by patients for their reputed estrogenic and antiandrogenic effects and suspected involvement in carcinogenesis via endocrine modulation.^16,17 In in vitro studies done on yeast assays, parabens have shown weak estrogenic activity that increases in proportion to both the length and increased branching of the alkyl side chains in the paraben’s molecular structure.¹⁸ They are 10,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol. In in vivo animal studies, parabens show weak estrogenic activity and are 100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.¹⁸ 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid, a common metabolite, showed no estrogenic activity when tested both in vitro and in vivo.¹⁹ Some concerning research has implicated a link between parabens used in underarm cosmetics, such as deodorants and antiperspirants, and breast cancer¹⁶; however, the studies have been conflicting, and there is simply not enough data to assert that parabens cause breast cancer.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel first reviewed parabens in 1984 and concluded that “methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the present practices of use.”²⁰ They extended this statement to include isopropylparaben and isobutylparaben in a later review.²¹ In 2005, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (now known as the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety) in Europe stated that methylparaben and ethylparaben can be used at levels up to 0.4% in products.²² This decision was reached due to reports of decreased sperm counts and testosterone levels in male juvenile rats exposed to these parabens; however, these reults were not successfully replicated in larger studies.^16,22 In 2010, the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety revisited its stance on parabens, and they then revised their recommendations to say that concentrations of propylparaben and butylparaben should not exceed concentrations of 0.19%, based on “the conservative choice for the calculation of the [Margin-of-Safety] of butyl- and propylparaben.”²³ However, in 2011 the use of propylparaben and butylparaben was banned in Denmark for cosmetic products used in children 3 years or younger,¹⁶ and the European Commission subsequently amended their directive in 2014, banning isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, phenylparaben, benzylparaben, and pentylparaben due to lack of data available to evaluate the human risk of these products.²⁴

Contrary to the trends in Europe, there currently are no regulations against the use of parabens in shampoos or other cosmetics in the United States. The American Cancer Society found that there is no evidence to suggest that the current levels of parabens in cosmetic products (eg, antiperspirants) increase one’s risk of breast cancer.²⁵ Parabens are readily absorbed into the body both transdermally and through ingestion but also are believed to be rapidly transformed into harmless and nonspecific metabolites; they are readily metabolized by the liver and excreted in urine, and there is no measured accumulation in tissues.¹⁷

Parabens continue to be the most widely used preservatives in personal care products, usually in conjunction with other preservatives. Parabens are good biocides; short-chain esters (eg, methylparabens, ethylparabens) are effective against gram-positive bacteria and are weakly effective against gram-negative bacteria. Long-chain paraben esters (eg, propylparabens, butylparabens) are effective against mold and yeast. The addition of other preservatives creates a broad spectrum of antimicrobial defense in consumer products. Other preservatives include formaldehyde releasers or phenoxyethanol, as well as chelating agents such as EDTA, which improve the stability of these cosmetic products when exposed to air.¹⁶ Parabens are naturally occurring substances found in foods such as blueberries, barley, strawberries, yeast, olives, and grapes. As a colorless, odorless, and inexpensive substance, their use has been heavily favored in cosmetic and food products.¹⁶

Shampoo Alternatives and the No-Poo Method

Although research has not demonstrated any long-term danger to using shampoo, certain chemicals found in shampoos have the potential to irritate the scalp. Commonly cited allergens in shampoos include cocamidopropyl betaine, propylene glycol, vitamin E (tocopherol), parabens, and benzophenones.⁵ Additionally, the rising use of formaldehyde-releasing preservatives and isothiazolinones due to mounting pressures to move away from parabens has led to an increase in cases of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD).¹⁶ However, the irritability (rather than allergenicity) of these substances often is established during patch testing, a method of detecting delayed-type allergic reactions, which is important to note because patch testing requires a substance to be exposed to the skin for 24 to 48 hours, whereas exposure to shampoo ingredients may last a matter of minutes at most and occur in lesser concentrations because the ingredients are diluted by water in the rinsing process. Given these differences, it is unlikely that a patient would develop a true allergic response from regular shampoo use. Nevertheless, in patients who are already sensitized, exposure could conceivably trigger ACD, and patients must be cognizant of the composition of their shampoos.¹⁶

The no-poo method refers to the avoidance of commercial shampoo products when cleansing the hair and scalp and encompasses different methods of cleansing the hair, such as the use of household items (eg, baking soda, apple cider vinegar [ACV]), the use of conditioners to wash the hair (also known as conditioner-only washing or co-washing), treating the scalp with tea tree oil, or simply rinsing the hair with water. Proponents of the no-poo method believe that abstaining from shampoo use leads to healthier hair, retained natural oils, and less exposure to supposedly dangerous chemicals such as parabens or sulfates.^2,3,26-28 However, there are no known studies in the literature that assess or support the hypotheses of the no-poo method.

Baking Soda and ACV
Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is a substance commonly found in the average household. It has been used in toothpaste formulas and cosmetic products and is known for its acid-neutralizing properties. Baking soda has been shown to have some antifungal and viricidal properties through an unknown mechanism of action.²⁸ It has gained popularity for its use as a means of reducing the appearance of excessive greasiness of the hair shafts. Users also have reported that when washing their hair with baking soda, they are able to achieve a clean scalp and hair that feels soft to the touch.^2,3,26,27,29 Despite these reports, users must beware of using baking soda without adequately diluting it with water. Baking soda is a known alkaline irritant.^26,30 With a pH of 9, baking soda causes the cuticle layer of the hair fiber to open, increasing the capacity for water absorption. Water penetrates the scales that open, breaking the hydrogen bonds of the keratin molecule.³¹ Keratin is a spiral helical molecule that keeps its shape due to hydrogen, disulfide, and ionic bonds, as well as Van der Waals force.³⁰ Hydrolysis of these bonds due to exposure to baking soda lowers the elasticity of the hair and increases the negative electrical net charge of the hair fiber surface, which leads to increased friction between fibers, cuticle damage, hair fragility, and fiber breakage.^32,33

Apple cider vinegar is an apple-derived acetic acid solution with a pH ranging from 3.1 to 5.²⁸ The pH range of ACV is considered to be ideal for hair by no-poo proponents, as it is similar to the natural pH of the scalp. Its acidic properties are responsible for its antimicrobial abilities, particularly its effectiveness against gram-negative bacteria.³⁰ The acetic acid of ACV can partially interrupt oil interfaces, which contributes to its mild ability to remove product residue and scalp buildup from the hair shaft; the acetic acid also tightens the cuticles on hair fibers.³³ Apple cider vinegar is used as a means of cleansing the hair and scalp by no-poo proponents^2,3,26; other uses for ACV include using it as a rinse following washing and/or conditioning of the hair or as a means of preserving color in color-treated hair. There also is evidence that ACV may have antifungal properties.²⁸ However, consumers must be aware that if it is not diluted in water, ACV may be too caustic for direct application to the hair and may lead to damage; it can be irritating to eyes, mucus membranes, and acutely inflamed skin. Also, vinegar rinses used on processed or chemically damaged hair may lead to increased hair fragility.^2,3

Hair fibers have a pH of 3.67, while the scalp has a pH between 4.5 and 6.2. This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to viruses, bacteria, and other potential contaminants.³³ Studies have shown that the pH of skin increases in proportion to the pH of the cleanser used.³⁴ Therefore, due to the naturally acidic pH of the scalp, acid-balanced shampoos generally are recommended. Shampoos should not have a pH higher than 5.5, as hair shafts can swell due to alkalinization, which can be prevented by pH balancing the shampoo through the addition of an acidic substance (eg, glycolic acid, citric acid) to lower the pH down to approximately 5.5. Apple cider vinegar often is used for this purpose. However, one study revealed that 82% of shampoos already have an acidic pH.³⁴

Conditioner-Only Washing (Co-washing)
Conditioner-only washing, or co-washing, is a widely practiced method of hair grooming. It is popular among individuals who find that commercial shampoos strip too much of the natural hair oils away, leaving the hair rough or unmanageable. Co-washing is not harmful to the hair; however, the molecular structure and function of a conditioner and that of a shampoo are very different.^5,35,36 Conditioners are not formulated to remove dirt and buildup in the hair but rather to add substances to the hair, and thus cannot provide extensive cleansing of the hair and scalp; therefore, it is inappropriate to use co-washing as a replacement for shampooing. Quaternary conditioning agents are an exception because they contain amphoteric detergents comprised of both anionic and cationic groups, which allow them both the ability to remove dirt and sebum with its anionic group, typically found in shampoos, as well as the ability to coat and condition the hair due to the high affinity of the cationic group for the negatively charged hair fibers.^36,37 Amphoteric detergents are commonly found in 2-in-1 conditioning cleansers, among other ingredients, such as hydrolyzed animal proteins that temporarily plug surface defects on the hair fiber, and dimethicone, a synthetic oil that creates a thin film over the hair shaft, increasing shine and manageability. Of note, these conditioning shampoos are ideal for individuals with minimal product buildup on the hair and scalp and are not adequate scalp cleansers for individuals who either wash their hair infrequently or who regularly use hairstyling products.^36,37

Tea Tree Oil
Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from the Melaleuca alternifolia plant of the Myrtaceae family. It is native to the coast of northeastern Australia. A holy grail of natural cosmetics, tea tree oil is widely known for its antiviral, antifungal, and antiseptic properties.³⁸ Although not used as a stand-alone cleanser, it is often added to a number of cosmetic products, including shampoos and co-washes. Although deemed safe for topical use, it has been shown to be quite toxic when ingested. Symptoms of ingestion include nausea, vomiting, hallucinations, and coma. The common concern with tea tree oil is its ability to cause ACD. In particular, it is believed that the oxidation products of tea tree oil are allergenic rather than the tea tree oil itself. The evaluation of tea tree oil as a potential contact allergen has been quite difficult; it consists of more than 100 distinct compounds and is often mislabeled, or does not meet the guidelines of the International Organization for Standardization. Nonetheless, the prevalence of ACD due to tea tree oil is low (approximately 1.4%). Despite its low prevalence, tea tree oil should remain in the differential as an ACD-inducing agent. Patch testing with the patient’s supply of tea tree oil is advised when possible.³⁸

Conclusion

It is customary that the ingredients used in shampoos undergo periodic testing and monitoring to assure the safety of their use. Although it is encouraging that patients are proactive in their efforts to stay abreast of the literature, it is still important that cosmetic scientists, dermatologists, and other experts remain at the forefront of educating the public about these substances. Not doing so can result in the propagation of misinformation and unnecessary fears, which can lead to the adaptation of unhygienic or even unsafe hair care practices. As dermatologists, we must ensure that patients are educated about the benefits and hazards of off-label use of household ingredients to the extent that evidence-based medicine permits. Patients must be informed that not all synthetic substances are harmful, and likewise not all naturally occurring substances are safe.