Pigmentation Disorders

CHICAGO – Sunscreen recommendations are most effective when a multitude of factors are considered, Susan C. Taylor, MD, said during a presentation on personal photoprotection at the inaugural Pigmentary Disorders Exchange Symposium.

Among the first factors physicians should consider before recommending sunscreen are a patient’s Fitzpatrick skin type, risks for burning or tanning, underlying skin disorders, and medications the patient is taking, Dr. Taylor, professor of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, said at the meeting, provided by MedscapeLIVE! If patients are on hypertensives, for example, medications can make them more photosensitive.

MedscapeLIVE!

Consider skin type

Dr. Taylor said she was dismayed by the results of a recent study, which found that 43% of dermatologists who responded to a survey reported that they never, rarely, or only sometimes took a patient’s skin type into account when making sunscreen recommendations. The article is referenced in a 2022 expert panel consensus paper she coauthored on photoprotection “for skin of all color.” But she pointed out that considering skin type alone is inadequate.

Questions for patients in joint decision-making should include lifestyle and work choices such as whether they work inside or outside, and how much sun exposure they get in a typical day. Heat and humidity levels should also be considered as should a patient’s susceptibility to dyspigmentation. “That could be overall darkening of the skin, mottled hyperpigmentation, actinic dyspigmentation, and, of course, propensity for skin cancer,” she said.
 

Use differs by race

Dr. Taylor, who is also vice chair for diversity, equity and inclusion in the department of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, pointed out that sunscreen use differs considerably by race.

In study of 8,952 adults in the United States who reported that they were sun sensitive found that a subset of adults with skin of color were significantly less likely to use sunscreen when compared with non-Hispanic White adults: Non-Hispanic Black (adjusted odds ratio, 0.43); non-Hispanic Asian (aOR. 0.54); and Hispanic (aOR, 0.70) adults.

In the study, non-Hispanic Black and Hispanic adults were significantly less likely to use sunscreens with an SPF greater than 15. In addition, non-Hispanic Black, non-Hispanic Asian, and Hispanic adults were significantly more likely than non-Hispanic Whites to wear long sleeves when outside. Such differences are important to keep in mind when advising patients about sunscreens, she said.
 

Protection for lighter-colored skin

Dr. Taylor said that, for patients with lighter skin tones, “we really want to protect against ultraviolet B as well as ultraviolet A, particularly ultraviolet A2. Ultraviolet radiation is going to cause DNA damage.” Patients with Fitzpatrick skin types I, II, or III are most susceptible to the effects of UVB with sunburn inflammation, which will cause erythema and tanning, and immunosuppression.

“For those who are I, II, and III, we do want to recommend a broad-spectrum, photostable sunscreen with a critical wavelength of 370 nanometers, which is going to protect from both UVB and UVA2,” she said.

Sunscreen recommendations are meant to be paired with advice to avoid midday sun from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., wearing protective clothing and accessories, and seeking shade, she noted.

Dr. Taylor said, for those patients with lighter skin who are more susceptible to photodamage and premature aging, physicians should recommend sunscreens that contain DNA repair enzymes such as photolyases and sunscreens that contain antioxidants that can prevent or reverse DNA damage. “The exogenous form of these lyases have been manufactured and added to sunscreens,” Dr. Taylor said. “They’re readily available in the United States. That is something to consider for patients with significant photodamage.”

Retinoids can also help alleviate or reverse photodamage, she added.
 

Protection for darker-colored skin

“Many people of color do not believe they need sunscreen,” Dr. Taylor said. But studies show that, although there may be more intrinsic protection, sunscreen is still needed.

Over 30 years ago, Halder and colleagues reported that melanin in skin of color can filter two to five times more UV radiation, and in a paper on the photoprotective role of melanin, Kaidbey and colleagues found that skin types V and VI had an intrinsic SPF of 13 when compared with those who have lighter complexions, which had an SPF of 3.

Sunburns seem to occur less frequently in people with skin of color, but that may be because erythema is less apparent in people with darker skin tones or because of differences in personal definitions of sunburn, Dr. Taylor said.

“Skin of color can and does sustain sunburns and sunscreen will help prevent that,” she said, adding that a recommendation of an SPF 30 is likely sufficient for these patients. Dr. Taylor noted that sunscreens for patients with darker skin often cost substantially more than those for lighter skin, and that should be considered in recommendations.

Tinted sunscreens

Dr. Taylor said that, while broad-spectrum photostable sunscreens protect against UVB and UVA 2, they don’t protect from visible light and UVA1. Two methods to add that protection are using inorganic tinted sunscreens that contain iron oxide or pigmentary titanium dioxide. Dr. Taylor was a coauthor of a practical guide to tinted sunscreens published in 2022.

“For iron oxide, we want a concentration of 3% or greater,” she said, adding that the percentage often is not known because if it is contained in a sunscreen, it is listed as an inactive ingredient.

Another method to address visible light and UVA1 is the use of antioxidant-containing sunscreens with vitamin E, vitamin C, or licochalcone A, Dr. Taylor said.

During the question-and-answer period following her presentation, Amit Pandya, MD, adjunct professor of dermatology at University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center, Dallas, asked why “every makeup, every sunscreen, just says iron oxide,” since it is known that visible light will cause pigmentation, especially in those with darker skin tones.

He urged pushing for a law that would require listing the percentage of iron oxide on products to assure it is sufficient, according to what the literature recommends.

Conference Chair Pearl Grimes, MD, director of the Vitiligo and Pigmentation Institute of Southern California, Los Angeles, said that she recommends tinted sunscreens almost exclusively for her patients, but those with darker skin colors struggle to match color.

Dr. Taylor referred to an analysis published in 2022 of 58 over-the counter sunscreens, which found that only 38% of tinted sunscreens was available in more than one shade, “which is a problem for many of our patients.” She said that providing samples with different hues and tactile sensations may help patients find the right product.

Dr. Taylor disclosed being on the advisory boards for AbbVie, Avita Medical, Beiersdorf, Biorez, Eli Lily, EPI Health, Evolus, Galderma, Hugel America, Johnson and Johnson, L’Oreal USA, MedScape, Pfizer, Scientis US, UCB, Vichy Laboratories. She is a consultant for Arcutis Biothermapeutics, Beiersdorf, Bristol-Myers Squibb, Cara Therapeutics, Dior, and Sanofi. She has done contracted research for Allergan Aesthetics, Concert Pharmaceuticals, Croma-Pharma, Eli Lilly, and Pfizer, and has an ownership interest in Armis Scientific, GloGetter, and Piction Health.

Medscape and this news organization are owned by the same parent company.

CHICAGO – Sunscreen recommendations are most effective when a multitude of factors are considered, Susan C. Taylor, MD, said during a presentation on personal photoprotection at the inaugural Pigmentary Disorders Exchange Symposium.

Among the first factors physicians should consider before recommending sunscreen are a patient’s Fitzpatrick skin type, risks for burning or tanning, underlying skin disorders, and medications the patient is taking, Dr. Taylor, professor of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, said at the meeting, provided by MedscapeLIVE! If patients are on hypertensives, for example, medications can make them more photosensitive.

MedscapeLIVE!

Consider skin type

Dr. Taylor said she was dismayed by the results of a recent study, which found that 43% of dermatologists who responded to a survey reported that they never, rarely, or only sometimes took a patient’s skin type into account when making sunscreen recommendations. The article is referenced in a 2022 expert panel consensus paper she coauthored on photoprotection “for skin of all color.” But she pointed out that considering skin type alone is inadequate.

Questions for patients in joint decision-making should include lifestyle and work choices such as whether they work inside or outside, and how much sun exposure they get in a typical day. Heat and humidity levels should also be considered as should a patient’s susceptibility to dyspigmentation. “That could be overall darkening of the skin, mottled hyperpigmentation, actinic dyspigmentation, and, of course, propensity for skin cancer,” she said.
 

Use differs by race

Dr. Taylor, who is also vice chair for diversity, equity and inclusion in the department of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, pointed out that sunscreen use differs considerably by race.

In study of 8,952 adults in the United States who reported that they were sun sensitive found that a subset of adults with skin of color were significantly less likely to use sunscreen when compared with non-Hispanic White adults: Non-Hispanic Black (adjusted odds ratio, 0.43); non-Hispanic Asian (aOR. 0.54); and Hispanic (aOR, 0.70) adults.

In the study, non-Hispanic Black and Hispanic adults were significantly less likely to use sunscreens with an SPF greater than 15. In addition, non-Hispanic Black, non-Hispanic Asian, and Hispanic adults were significantly more likely than non-Hispanic Whites to wear long sleeves when outside. Such differences are important to keep in mind when advising patients about sunscreens, she said.
 

Protection for lighter-colored skin

Dr. Taylor said that, for patients with lighter skin tones, “we really want to protect against ultraviolet B as well as ultraviolet A, particularly ultraviolet A2. Ultraviolet radiation is going to cause DNA damage.” Patients with Fitzpatrick skin types I, II, or III are most susceptible to the effects of UVB with sunburn inflammation, which will cause erythema and tanning, and immunosuppression.

“For those who are I, II, and III, we do want to recommend a broad-spectrum, photostable sunscreen with a critical wavelength of 370 nanometers, which is going to protect from both UVB and UVA2,” she said.

Sunscreen recommendations are meant to be paired with advice to avoid midday sun from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., wearing protective clothing and accessories, and seeking shade, she noted.

Dr. Taylor said, for those patients with lighter skin who are more susceptible to photodamage and premature aging, physicians should recommend sunscreens that contain DNA repair enzymes such as photolyases and sunscreens that contain antioxidants that can prevent or reverse DNA damage. “The exogenous form of these lyases have been manufactured and added to sunscreens,” Dr. Taylor said. “They’re readily available in the United States. That is something to consider for patients with significant photodamage.”

Retinoids can also help alleviate or reverse photodamage, she added.
 

Protection for darker-colored skin

“Many people of color do not believe they need sunscreen,” Dr. Taylor said. But studies show that, although there may be more intrinsic protection, sunscreen is still needed.

Over 30 years ago, Halder and colleagues reported that melanin in skin of color can filter two to five times more UV radiation, and in a paper on the photoprotective role of melanin, Kaidbey and colleagues found that skin types V and VI had an intrinsic SPF of 13 when compared with those who have lighter complexions, which had an SPF of 3.

Sunburns seem to occur less frequently in people with skin of color, but that may be because erythema is less apparent in people with darker skin tones or because of differences in personal definitions of sunburn, Dr. Taylor said.

“Skin of color can and does sustain sunburns and sunscreen will help prevent that,” she said, adding that a recommendation of an SPF 30 is likely sufficient for these patients. Dr. Taylor noted that sunscreens for patients with darker skin often cost substantially more than those for lighter skin, and that should be considered in recommendations.

Tinted sunscreens

Dr. Taylor said that, while broad-spectrum photostable sunscreens protect against UVB and UVA 2, they don’t protect from visible light and UVA1. Two methods to add that protection are using inorganic tinted sunscreens that contain iron oxide or pigmentary titanium dioxide. Dr. Taylor was a coauthor of a practical guide to tinted sunscreens published in 2022.

“For iron oxide, we want a concentration of 3% or greater,” she said, adding that the percentage often is not known because if it is contained in a sunscreen, it is listed as an inactive ingredient.

Another method to address visible light and UVA1 is the use of antioxidant-containing sunscreens with vitamin E, vitamin C, or licochalcone A, Dr. Taylor said.

During the question-and-answer period following her presentation, Amit Pandya, MD, adjunct professor of dermatology at University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center, Dallas, asked why “every makeup, every sunscreen, just says iron oxide,” since it is known that visible light will cause pigmentation, especially in those with darker skin tones.

He urged pushing for a law that would require listing the percentage of iron oxide on products to assure it is sufficient, according to what the literature recommends.

Conference Chair Pearl Grimes, MD, director of the Vitiligo and Pigmentation Institute of Southern California, Los Angeles, said that she recommends tinted sunscreens almost exclusively for her patients, but those with darker skin colors struggle to match color.

Dr. Taylor referred to an analysis published in 2022 of 58 over-the counter sunscreens, which found that only 38% of tinted sunscreens was available in more than one shade, “which is a problem for many of our patients.” She said that providing samples with different hues and tactile sensations may help patients find the right product.

Dr. Taylor disclosed being on the advisory boards for AbbVie, Avita Medical, Beiersdorf, Biorez, Eli Lily, EPI Health, Evolus, Galderma, Hugel America, Johnson and Johnson, L’Oreal USA, MedScape, Pfizer, Scientis US, UCB, Vichy Laboratories. She is a consultant for Arcutis Biothermapeutics, Beiersdorf, Bristol-Myers Squibb, Cara Therapeutics, Dior, and Sanofi. She has done contracted research for Allergan Aesthetics, Concert Pharmaceuticals, Croma-Pharma, Eli Lilly, and Pfizer, and has an ownership interest in Armis Scientific, GloGetter, and Piction Health.

Medscape and this news organization are owned by the same parent company.

CHICAGO – Sunscreen recommendations are most effective when a multitude of factors are considered, Susan C. Taylor, MD, said during a presentation on personal photoprotection at the inaugural Pigmentary Disorders Exchange Symposium.

Among the first factors physicians should consider before recommending sunscreen are a patient’s Fitzpatrick skin type, risks for burning or tanning, underlying skin disorders, and medications the patient is taking, Dr. Taylor, professor of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, said at the meeting, provided by MedscapeLIVE! If patients are on hypertensives, for example, medications can make them more photosensitive.

MedscapeLIVE!

Consider skin type

Dr. Taylor said she was dismayed by the results of a recent study, which found that 43% of dermatologists who responded to a survey reported that they never, rarely, or only sometimes took a patient’s skin type into account when making sunscreen recommendations. The article is referenced in a 2022 expert panel consensus paper she coauthored on photoprotection “for skin of all color.” But she pointed out that considering skin type alone is inadequate.

Questions for patients in joint decision-making should include lifestyle and work choices such as whether they work inside or outside, and how much sun exposure they get in a typical day. Heat and humidity levels should also be considered as should a patient’s susceptibility to dyspigmentation. “That could be overall darkening of the skin, mottled hyperpigmentation, actinic dyspigmentation, and, of course, propensity for skin cancer,” she said.
 

Use differs by race

Dr. Taylor, who is also vice chair for diversity, equity and inclusion in the department of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, pointed out that sunscreen use differs considerably by race.

In study of 8,952 adults in the United States who reported that they were sun sensitive found that a subset of adults with skin of color were significantly less likely to use sunscreen when compared with non-Hispanic White adults: Non-Hispanic Black (adjusted odds ratio, 0.43); non-Hispanic Asian (aOR. 0.54); and Hispanic (aOR, 0.70) adults.

In the study, non-Hispanic Black and Hispanic adults were significantly less likely to use sunscreens with an SPF greater than 15. In addition, non-Hispanic Black, non-Hispanic Asian, and Hispanic adults were significantly more likely than non-Hispanic Whites to wear long sleeves when outside. Such differences are important to keep in mind when advising patients about sunscreens, she said.
 

Protection for lighter-colored skin

Dr. Taylor said that, for patients with lighter skin tones, “we really want to protect against ultraviolet B as well as ultraviolet A, particularly ultraviolet A2. Ultraviolet radiation is going to cause DNA damage.” Patients with Fitzpatrick skin types I, II, or III are most susceptible to the effects of UVB with sunburn inflammation, which will cause erythema and tanning, and immunosuppression.

“For those who are I, II, and III, we do want to recommend a broad-spectrum, photostable sunscreen with a critical wavelength of 370 nanometers, which is going to protect from both UVB and UVA2,” she said.

Sunscreen recommendations are meant to be paired with advice to avoid midday sun from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., wearing protective clothing and accessories, and seeking shade, she noted.

Dr. Taylor said, for those patients with lighter skin who are more susceptible to photodamage and premature aging, physicians should recommend sunscreens that contain DNA repair enzymes such as photolyases and sunscreens that contain antioxidants that can prevent or reverse DNA damage. “The exogenous form of these lyases have been manufactured and added to sunscreens,” Dr. Taylor said. “They’re readily available in the United States. That is something to consider for patients with significant photodamage.”

Retinoids can also help alleviate or reverse photodamage, she added.
 

Protection for darker-colored skin

“Many people of color do not believe they need sunscreen,” Dr. Taylor said. But studies show that, although there may be more intrinsic protection, sunscreen is still needed.

Over 30 years ago, Halder and colleagues reported that melanin in skin of color can filter two to five times more UV radiation, and in a paper on the photoprotective role of melanin, Kaidbey and colleagues found that skin types V and VI had an intrinsic SPF of 13 when compared with those who have lighter complexions, which had an SPF of 3.

Sunburns seem to occur less frequently in people with skin of color, but that may be because erythema is less apparent in people with darker skin tones or because of differences in personal definitions of sunburn, Dr. Taylor said.

“Skin of color can and does sustain sunburns and sunscreen will help prevent that,” she said, adding that a recommendation of an SPF 30 is likely sufficient for these patients. Dr. Taylor noted that sunscreens for patients with darker skin often cost substantially more than those for lighter skin, and that should be considered in recommendations.

Tinted sunscreens

Dr. Taylor said that, while broad-spectrum photostable sunscreens protect against UVB and UVA 2, they don’t protect from visible light and UVA1. Two methods to add that protection are using inorganic tinted sunscreens that contain iron oxide or pigmentary titanium dioxide. Dr. Taylor was a coauthor of a practical guide to tinted sunscreens published in 2022.

“For iron oxide, we want a concentration of 3% or greater,” she said, adding that the percentage often is not known because if it is contained in a sunscreen, it is listed as an inactive ingredient.

Another method to address visible light and UVA1 is the use of antioxidant-containing sunscreens with vitamin E, vitamin C, or licochalcone A, Dr. Taylor said.

During the question-and-answer period following her presentation, Amit Pandya, MD, adjunct professor of dermatology at University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center, Dallas, asked why “every makeup, every sunscreen, just says iron oxide,” since it is known that visible light will cause pigmentation, especially in those with darker skin tones.

He urged pushing for a law that would require listing the percentage of iron oxide on products to assure it is sufficient, according to what the literature recommends.

Conference Chair Pearl Grimes, MD, director of the Vitiligo and Pigmentation Institute of Southern California, Los Angeles, said that she recommends tinted sunscreens almost exclusively for her patients, but those with darker skin colors struggle to match color.

Dr. Taylor referred to an analysis published in 2022 of 58 over-the counter sunscreens, which found that only 38% of tinted sunscreens was available in more than one shade, “which is a problem for many of our patients.” She said that providing samples with different hues and tactile sensations may help patients find the right product.

Dr. Taylor disclosed being on the advisory boards for AbbVie, Avita Medical, Beiersdorf, Biorez, Eli Lily, EPI Health, Evolus, Galderma, Hugel America, Johnson and Johnson, L’Oreal USA, MedScape, Pfizer, Scientis US, UCB, Vichy Laboratories. She is a consultant for Arcutis Biothermapeutics, Beiersdorf, Bristol-Myers Squibb, Cara Therapeutics, Dior, and Sanofi. She has done contracted research for Allergan Aesthetics, Concert Pharmaceuticals, Croma-Pharma, Eli Lilly, and Pfizer, and has an ownership interest in Armis Scientific, GloGetter, and Piction Health.

Medscape and this news organization are owned by the same parent company.

To the Editor:

A 12-year-old girl presented to the dermatology clinic for evaluation of a congenital scalp lesion. The patient was diagnosed with alopecia areata by a dermatologist at 4 years of age, and she was treated with topical corticosteroids and minoxidil, which failed to resolve her condition. Physical examination revealed an 8×10-cm, well-demarcated, yellowish-pink plaque located over the vertex and right parietal scalp (Figure 1A), extending down to the right preauricular cheek (Figure 1B) in a linear configuration with blaschkoid features. The scalp plaque appeared bald and completely lacking in terminal hairs but contained numerous fine vellus hairs (Figure 1A). A 6-mm, oval-appearing, pigmented papule was present in the plaque, and a few smaller, scattered, pigmented papules were noted in the vertex region (Figure 1A).

The cutaneous examination was otherwise unremarkable. A review of systems was negative, except for a history of attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder. There was no history of seizures or other neurocognitive developmental abnormalities.

A 4-mm punch biopsy of the vertex scalp included the pigmented lesion but excluded an adnexal neoplasm. Epidermal acanthosis and mild papillomatosis were reported on microscopic examination. Multiple prominent sebaceous glands without associated hair follicles, which emptied directly onto the epidermal surface, were noted in the dermis (Figure 2). Several apocrine glands were observed (Figure 3). Epidermal and dermal melanocytic nests were highlighted with SOX-10 and Melan-A immunohistochemical stains, confirming the presence of a benign compound nevus. The punch biopsy analysis confirmed the diagnosis of a nevus sebaceus (NS) of Jadassohn (organoid nevus) with incidental compound nevus. Additional 4-mm punch biopsies were obtained for genetic testing, performed by the Genomics and Pathology Services at Washington University (St. Louis, Missouri). A missense HRAS p.G12V variant was observed in the tissue. A negative blood test result ruled out a germline mutation. The patient was managed with active observation of the lesion to evaluate for potential formation of neoplasms, as well as continuity of care with the dermatology clinic, considering the extent of the lesions, to monitor the development of any new medical conditions that would be concerning for syndromes associated with NS.

Nevus sebaceus is a benign skin hamartoma caused by a congenital defect in the pilosebaceous follicular unit and consists of epidermal, sebaceous, and apocrine elements.^1,2 In dermatology patients, the prevalence of NS ranges from 0.05% to 1%.¹ In 90% of cases, NS presents at birth as a 1- to 10-cm, round or linear, yellowish-orange, hairless plaque located on the scalp. It also may appear on the face, neck, trunk, oral mucosa, or labia minora.^1,3 Although NS is a benign condition, secondary tumors may form within the lesion.³

The physical and histologic characteristics of NS evolve as the patient ages. In childhood, NS typically appears as a yellow-pink macule or patch with mild to moderate epidermal hyperplasia. Patients exhibit underdeveloped sebaceous glands, immature hair follicles, hyperkeratosis, and acanthosis.^1,3,4 The development of early lesions can be quite subtle and can lead to diagnostic uncertainty, as described in our patient. During puberty, lesions thicken due to papillomatous hyperplasia in the epidermis, and the number and size of sebaceous and apocrine glands increase.⁴ In adults, the risk for secondary tumor formation increases. These physical and histologic transformations, including secondary tumor formation, are thought to be stimulated by the action of postpubertal androgens.¹

Nevus sebaceus is associated with both benign and malignant secondary tumor formation; however, fewer than 1% of tumors are malignant.¹ In a retrospective analysis, Idriss and Elston⁵ (N=707) reported that 21.4% of patients with NS had secondary neoplasms; 18.9% of the secondary neoplasms were benign, and 2.5% were malignant. Additionally, this study showed that secondary tumor formation can occur in children, though it typically occurs in adults. Benign neoplasms were reported in 5 children in the subset aged 0 to 10 years and 10 children in the subset aged 11 to 17 years; 1 child developed a malignant neoplasm in the latter subset.⁵ The most common NS-associated benign neoplasms include trichoblastoma and syringocystadenoma papilliferum. Others include trichilemmoma, apocrine/eccrine adenoma, and sebaceoma.¹ Nevus sebaceus–associated malignant neoplasms include basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, adenocarcinoma, carcinosarcoma, and sebaceous carcinoma.³

Our patient was incorrectly diagnosed and treated for alopecia areata before an eventual diagnosis of NS was confirmed by biopsy. Additional genetic studies revealed a novel mutation in the HRAS gene, the most commonly affected gene in NS. The most common mutation location seen in more than 90% of NS lesions is HRAS c.37G>C (p.G13R), while KRAS mutations account for almost all the remaining cases.³ In our patient, a pathogenic missense HRAS p.G12V variant of somatic origin was detected with DNA extraction and sequencing from a fresh tissue sample acquired from two 4-mm punch biopsies performed on the lesion. The following genes were sequenced and found to be uninvolved: BRAF, FGFR1, FGFR2, FGFR3, GNA11, GNAQ, KRAS, MAP3K3, NRAS, PIK3CA, and TEK. The Sanger sequencing method for comparative analysis performed on peripheral blood was negative.

Nevus sebaceus typically is caused by a sporadic mutation, though familial cases have been reported.¹ Additionally, germline HRAS mutations can lead to Costello syndrome, an autosomal-dominant disorder characterized by short stature; intellectual disabilities; coarse facial features; facial and perianal papillomata; cardiac defects; loose skin; joint hyperflexibility; and an increased risk for malignant tumors including rhabdomyosarcoma, neuroblastoma, and transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder.⁶

The diagnosis of NS often can be made clinically but can be difficult to confirm in underdeveloped lesions in young children. The differential diagnosis can include alopecia areata, aplasia cutis congenita, juvenile xanthogranuloma, epidermal nevus, de novo syringocystadenoma papilliferum, and solitary mastocytoma.¹ Nevus sebaceus can be associated with 4 additional syndromes: Schimmelpenning syndrome; phacomatosis pigmentokeratotica; didymosis aplasticosebacea; and SCALP (sebaceus nevus, central nervous system malformations, aplasia cutis congenital, limbal dermoid, pigmented nevus) syndrome.¹ Approximately 7% of NS cases may be associated with Schimmelpenning-Feuerstein-Mims (SFM) syndrome, a more severe condition that leads to systemic involvement and abnormalities in the neurological, ophthalmological, cardiovascular, genitourological, and skeletal systems.^1,3 Phacomatosis pigmentokeratotica has speckled lentiginous nevi, as well as abnormalities in the neurological, ophthalmological, cardiovascular, genitourological, and skeletal systems.¹ Didymosis aplasticosebacea is the concurrence of NS and aplasia cutis congenita.

The definitive treatment of NS is surgical excision. Alternative therapies include photodynamic therapy, fractional laser resurfacing, and dermabrasion; these are not definitive treatments, and patients must be monitored for the development of secondary neoplasms. Multiple variables must be considered when determining treatment, including patient age, risk potential for malignancy, and surgery-associated risks.¹ In our patient, given the extent of the lesions, active observation and follow-up was agreed upon for management.

This case demonstrates the importance of considering NS as an alternative diagnosis when alopecia areata has been diagnosed in a child who is unresponsive to treatments. After the diagnosis of NS is confirmed, more serious associated syndromes should be ruled out, and treatment should be tailored to each case.

To the Editor:

A 12-year-old girl presented to the dermatology clinic for evaluation of a congenital scalp lesion. The patient was diagnosed with alopecia areata by a dermatologist at 4 years of age, and she was treated with topical corticosteroids and minoxidil, which failed to resolve her condition. Physical examination revealed an 8×10-cm, well-demarcated, yellowish-pink plaque located over the vertex and right parietal scalp (Figure 1A), extending down to the right preauricular cheek (Figure 1B) in a linear configuration with blaschkoid features. The scalp plaque appeared bald and completely lacking in terminal hairs but contained numerous fine vellus hairs (Figure 1A). A 6-mm, oval-appearing, pigmented papule was present in the plaque, and a few smaller, scattered, pigmented papules were noted in the vertex region (Figure 1A).

The cutaneous examination was otherwise unremarkable. A review of systems was negative, except for a history of attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder. There was no history of seizures or other neurocognitive developmental abnormalities.

A 4-mm punch biopsy of the vertex scalp included the pigmented lesion but excluded an adnexal neoplasm. Epidermal acanthosis and mild papillomatosis were reported on microscopic examination. Multiple prominent sebaceous glands without associated hair follicles, which emptied directly onto the epidermal surface, were noted in the dermis (Figure 2). Several apocrine glands were observed (Figure 3). Epidermal and dermal melanocytic nests were highlighted with SOX-10 and Melan-A immunohistochemical stains, confirming the presence of a benign compound nevus. The punch biopsy analysis confirmed the diagnosis of a nevus sebaceus (NS) of Jadassohn (organoid nevus) with incidental compound nevus. Additional 4-mm punch biopsies were obtained for genetic testing, performed by the Genomics and Pathology Services at Washington University (St. Louis, Missouri). A missense HRAS p.G12V variant was observed in the tissue. A negative blood test result ruled out a germline mutation. The patient was managed with active observation of the lesion to evaluate for potential formation of neoplasms, as well as continuity of care with the dermatology clinic, considering the extent of the lesions, to monitor the development of any new medical conditions that would be concerning for syndromes associated with NS.

Nevus sebaceus is a benign skin hamartoma caused by a congenital defect in the pilosebaceous follicular unit and consists of epidermal, sebaceous, and apocrine elements.^1,2 In dermatology patients, the prevalence of NS ranges from 0.05% to 1%.¹ In 90% of cases, NS presents at birth as a 1- to 10-cm, round or linear, yellowish-orange, hairless plaque located on the scalp. It also may appear on the face, neck, trunk, oral mucosa, or labia minora.^1,3 Although NS is a benign condition, secondary tumors may form within the lesion.³

The physical and histologic characteristics of NS evolve as the patient ages. In childhood, NS typically appears as a yellow-pink macule or patch with mild to moderate epidermal hyperplasia. Patients exhibit underdeveloped sebaceous glands, immature hair follicles, hyperkeratosis, and acanthosis.^1,3,4 The development of early lesions can be quite subtle and can lead to diagnostic uncertainty, as described in our patient. During puberty, lesions thicken due to papillomatous hyperplasia in the epidermis, and the number and size of sebaceous and apocrine glands increase.⁴ In adults, the risk for secondary tumor formation increases. These physical and histologic transformations, including secondary tumor formation, are thought to be stimulated by the action of postpubertal androgens.¹

Nevus sebaceus is associated with both benign and malignant secondary tumor formation; however, fewer than 1% of tumors are malignant.¹ In a retrospective analysis, Idriss and Elston⁵ (N=707) reported that 21.4% of patients with NS had secondary neoplasms; 18.9% of the secondary neoplasms were benign, and 2.5% were malignant. Additionally, this study showed that secondary tumor formation can occur in children, though it typically occurs in adults. Benign neoplasms were reported in 5 children in the subset aged 0 to 10 years and 10 children in the subset aged 11 to 17 years; 1 child developed a malignant neoplasm in the latter subset.⁵ The most common NS-associated benign neoplasms include trichoblastoma and syringocystadenoma papilliferum. Others include trichilemmoma, apocrine/eccrine adenoma, and sebaceoma.¹ Nevus sebaceus–associated malignant neoplasms include basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, adenocarcinoma, carcinosarcoma, and sebaceous carcinoma.³

Our patient was incorrectly diagnosed and treated for alopecia areata before an eventual diagnosis of NS was confirmed by biopsy. Additional genetic studies revealed a novel mutation in the HRAS gene, the most commonly affected gene in NS. The most common mutation location seen in more than 90% of NS lesions is HRAS c.37G>C (p.G13R), while KRAS mutations account for almost all the remaining cases.³ In our patient, a pathogenic missense HRAS p.G12V variant of somatic origin was detected with DNA extraction and sequencing from a fresh tissue sample acquired from two 4-mm punch biopsies performed on the lesion. The following genes were sequenced and found to be uninvolved: BRAF, FGFR1, FGFR2, FGFR3, GNA11, GNAQ, KRAS, MAP3K3, NRAS, PIK3CA, and TEK. The Sanger sequencing method for comparative analysis performed on peripheral blood was negative.

Nevus sebaceus typically is caused by a sporadic mutation, though familial cases have been reported.¹ Additionally, germline HRAS mutations can lead to Costello syndrome, an autosomal-dominant disorder characterized by short stature; intellectual disabilities; coarse facial features; facial and perianal papillomata; cardiac defects; loose skin; joint hyperflexibility; and an increased risk for malignant tumors including rhabdomyosarcoma, neuroblastoma, and transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder.⁶

The diagnosis of NS often can be made clinically but can be difficult to confirm in underdeveloped lesions in young children. The differential diagnosis can include alopecia areata, aplasia cutis congenita, juvenile xanthogranuloma, epidermal nevus, de novo syringocystadenoma papilliferum, and solitary mastocytoma.¹ Nevus sebaceus can be associated with 4 additional syndromes: Schimmelpenning syndrome; phacomatosis pigmentokeratotica; didymosis aplasticosebacea; and SCALP (sebaceus nevus, central nervous system malformations, aplasia cutis congenital, limbal dermoid, pigmented nevus) syndrome.¹ Approximately 7% of NS cases may be associated with Schimmelpenning-Feuerstein-Mims (SFM) syndrome, a more severe condition that leads to systemic involvement and abnormalities in the neurological, ophthalmological, cardiovascular, genitourological, and skeletal systems.^1,3 Phacomatosis pigmentokeratotica has speckled lentiginous nevi, as well as abnormalities in the neurological, ophthalmological, cardiovascular, genitourological, and skeletal systems.¹ Didymosis aplasticosebacea is the concurrence of NS and aplasia cutis congenita.

The definitive treatment of NS is surgical excision. Alternative therapies include photodynamic therapy, fractional laser resurfacing, and dermabrasion; these are not definitive treatments, and patients must be monitored for the development of secondary neoplasms. Multiple variables must be considered when determining treatment, including patient age, risk potential for malignancy, and surgery-associated risks.¹ In our patient, given the extent of the lesions, active observation and follow-up was agreed upon for management.

This case demonstrates the importance of considering NS as an alternative diagnosis when alopecia areata has been diagnosed in a child who is unresponsive to treatments. After the diagnosis of NS is confirmed, more serious associated syndromes should be ruled out, and treatment should be tailored to each case.

To the Editor:

A 12-year-old girl presented to the dermatology clinic for evaluation of a congenital scalp lesion. The patient was diagnosed with alopecia areata by a dermatologist at 4 years of age, and she was treated with topical corticosteroids and minoxidil, which failed to resolve her condition. Physical examination revealed an 8×10-cm, well-demarcated, yellowish-pink plaque located over the vertex and right parietal scalp (Figure 1A), extending down to the right preauricular cheek (Figure 1B) in a linear configuration with blaschkoid features. The scalp plaque appeared bald and completely lacking in terminal hairs but contained numerous fine vellus hairs (Figure 1A). A 6-mm, oval-appearing, pigmented papule was present in the plaque, and a few smaller, scattered, pigmented papules were noted in the vertex region (Figure 1A).

The cutaneous examination was otherwise unremarkable. A review of systems was negative, except for a history of attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder. There was no history of seizures or other neurocognitive developmental abnormalities.

A 4-mm punch biopsy of the vertex scalp included the pigmented lesion but excluded an adnexal neoplasm. Epidermal acanthosis and mild papillomatosis were reported on microscopic examination. Multiple prominent sebaceous glands without associated hair follicles, which emptied directly onto the epidermal surface, were noted in the dermis (Figure 2). Several apocrine glands were observed (Figure 3). Epidermal and dermal melanocytic nests were highlighted with SOX-10 and Melan-A immunohistochemical stains, confirming the presence of a benign compound nevus. The punch biopsy analysis confirmed the diagnosis of a nevus sebaceus (NS) of Jadassohn (organoid nevus) with incidental compound nevus. Additional 4-mm punch biopsies were obtained for genetic testing, performed by the Genomics and Pathology Services at Washington University (St. Louis, Missouri). A missense HRAS p.G12V variant was observed in the tissue. A negative blood test result ruled out a germline mutation. The patient was managed with active observation of the lesion to evaluate for potential formation of neoplasms, as well as continuity of care with the dermatology clinic, considering the extent of the lesions, to monitor the development of any new medical conditions that would be concerning for syndromes associated with NS.

Nevus sebaceus is a benign skin hamartoma caused by a congenital defect in the pilosebaceous follicular unit and consists of epidermal, sebaceous, and apocrine elements.^1,2 In dermatology patients, the prevalence of NS ranges from 0.05% to 1%.¹ In 90% of cases, NS presents at birth as a 1- to 10-cm, round or linear, yellowish-orange, hairless plaque located on the scalp. It also may appear on the face, neck, trunk, oral mucosa, or labia minora.^1,3 Although NS is a benign condition, secondary tumors may form within the lesion.³

The physical and histologic characteristics of NS evolve as the patient ages. In childhood, NS typically appears as a yellow-pink macule or patch with mild to moderate epidermal hyperplasia. Patients exhibit underdeveloped sebaceous glands, immature hair follicles, hyperkeratosis, and acanthosis.^1,3,4 The development of early lesions can be quite subtle and can lead to diagnostic uncertainty, as described in our patient. During puberty, lesions thicken due to papillomatous hyperplasia in the epidermis, and the number and size of sebaceous and apocrine glands increase.⁴ In adults, the risk for secondary tumor formation increases. These physical and histologic transformations, including secondary tumor formation, are thought to be stimulated by the action of postpubertal androgens.¹

Nevus sebaceus is associated with both benign and malignant secondary tumor formation; however, fewer than 1% of tumors are malignant.¹ In a retrospective analysis, Idriss and Elston⁵ (N=707) reported that 21.4% of patients with NS had secondary neoplasms; 18.9% of the secondary neoplasms were benign, and 2.5% were malignant. Additionally, this study showed that secondary tumor formation can occur in children, though it typically occurs in adults. Benign neoplasms were reported in 5 children in the subset aged 0 to 10 years and 10 children in the subset aged 11 to 17 years; 1 child developed a malignant neoplasm in the latter subset.⁵ The most common NS-associated benign neoplasms include trichoblastoma and syringocystadenoma papilliferum. Others include trichilemmoma, apocrine/eccrine adenoma, and sebaceoma.¹ Nevus sebaceus–associated malignant neoplasms include basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, adenocarcinoma, carcinosarcoma, and sebaceous carcinoma.³

Our patient was incorrectly diagnosed and treated for alopecia areata before an eventual diagnosis of NS was confirmed by biopsy. Additional genetic studies revealed a novel mutation in the HRAS gene, the most commonly affected gene in NS. The most common mutation location seen in more than 90% of NS lesions is HRAS c.37G>C (p.G13R), while KRAS mutations account for almost all the remaining cases.³ In our patient, a pathogenic missense HRAS p.G12V variant of somatic origin was detected with DNA extraction and sequencing from a fresh tissue sample acquired from two 4-mm punch biopsies performed on the lesion. The following genes were sequenced and found to be uninvolved: BRAF, FGFR1, FGFR2, FGFR3, GNA11, GNAQ, KRAS, MAP3K3, NRAS, PIK3CA, and TEK. The Sanger sequencing method for comparative analysis performed on peripheral blood was negative.

Nevus sebaceus typically is caused by a sporadic mutation, though familial cases have been reported.¹ Additionally, germline HRAS mutations can lead to Costello syndrome, an autosomal-dominant disorder characterized by short stature; intellectual disabilities; coarse facial features; facial and perianal papillomata; cardiac defects; loose skin; joint hyperflexibility; and an increased risk for malignant tumors including rhabdomyosarcoma, neuroblastoma, and transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder.⁶

The diagnosis of NS often can be made clinically but can be difficult to confirm in underdeveloped lesions in young children. The differential diagnosis can include alopecia areata, aplasia cutis congenita, juvenile xanthogranuloma, epidermal nevus, de novo syringocystadenoma papilliferum, and solitary mastocytoma.¹ Nevus sebaceus can be associated with 4 additional syndromes: Schimmelpenning syndrome; phacomatosis pigmentokeratotica; didymosis aplasticosebacea; and SCALP (sebaceus nevus, central nervous system malformations, aplasia cutis congenital, limbal dermoid, pigmented nevus) syndrome.¹ Approximately 7% of NS cases may be associated with Schimmelpenning-Feuerstein-Mims (SFM) syndrome, a more severe condition that leads to systemic involvement and abnormalities in the neurological, ophthalmological, cardiovascular, genitourological, and skeletal systems.^1,3 Phacomatosis pigmentokeratotica has speckled lentiginous nevi, as well as abnormalities in the neurological, ophthalmological, cardiovascular, genitourological, and skeletal systems.¹ Didymosis aplasticosebacea is the concurrence of NS and aplasia cutis congenita.

The definitive treatment of NS is surgical excision. Alternative therapies include photodynamic therapy, fractional laser resurfacing, and dermabrasion; these are not definitive treatments, and patients must be monitored for the development of secondary neoplasms. Multiple variables must be considered when determining treatment, including patient age, risk potential for malignancy, and surgery-associated risks.¹ In our patient, given the extent of the lesions, active observation and follow-up was agreed upon for management.

This case demonstrates the importance of considering NS as an alternative diagnosis when alopecia areata has been diagnosed in a child who is unresponsive to treatments. After the diagnosis of NS is confirmed, more serious associated syndromes should be ruled out, and treatment should be tailored to each case.

PHOENIX – Ever since PicoSure became the first picosecond laser cleared by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of unwanted tattoos and pigmented lesions in 2012, new uses for this technology continue to expand.

Now, several different FDA-cleared picosecond devices are used for treating conditions ranging from nevus of Ota, café-au-lait macules, and lentigines to melasma, photoaging, yellow tattoos, and recalcitrant tattoos. These include PicoWay, PicoSure, Enlighten, PicoPlus, PiQo4, and Quanta Pico, among others.

“PicoWay technology has integrated nicely into my practice in Houston, the most ethnically diverse city in the country, with its ability to safely treat a number of various benign, congenital, and acquired epidermal and dermal pigmented lesions with ultrashort pulse duration and low thermal impact, which greatly reduces the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation even in darker skin types,” Paul M. Friedman, MD, director of the Dermatology and Laser Surgery Center, Houston, said at the annual conference of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery.

Dr. Friedman

He emphasized the importance of therapeutic clinical endpoints, noting that with q-switched lasers, “you’re looking for immediate whitening, whereas with picosecond lasers, your endpoint is slight whitening or slight darkening depending on wavelength, indication, and skin type. The ability to fractionate picosecond pulses has also allowed us to utilize this technology for photoaging as well as acne scarring.”

The PicoWay system includes a 730-nm picosecond titanium sapphire handpiece, which is FDA cleared for treatment of benign pigmented lesions and blue and green tattoo removal. Dr. Friedman said that he has seen good clinical results using the handpiece for café-au-lait macules, particularly in skin of color.

In an abstract presented at the ASLMS meeting, he and his colleagues presented a retrospective review of 12 patients with café-au-lait macules with Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI who were treated with the PicoWay 730 nm handpiece between April 2021 and January 2023. Patients received a mean of 3.1 treatments at intervals that ranged from 5 to 40 weeks. Clinical photographs were graded by three board-certified dermatologists using a 5-point visual analogue scale.

Overall, patients were rated to have a mean improvement of 26%-50%. Two patients achieved 100% clearance after four to five treatment sessions. “Café-au-lait macules with smooth borders responded less well to laser treatment, confirming prior studies at our center,” he said. “We often educate parents that café-au-lait macules may recur over time, especially with repeated sun exposure.”
 

Treating melasma

Dr. Friedman’s go-to devices for melasma include the low-density, low-energy 1,927-nm fractional diode laser; the 1,064 nm picosecond Nd:YAG, the low-fluence 1,064 nm Q-switched Nd:YAG with a nanosecond pulse duration, and the 595-nm pulsed dye laser for lesions exhibiting underlying vascularity. He said that combining therapies that target pigment and vasculature may be ideal to prevent relapses. “Melasma is a multifactorial condition so by improving patient education and expectation alongside advances in laser treatment of melasma, we have ultimately improved our ability to treat this condition,” he said.

“We’re approaching it from all angles, with ultraviolet photography and spectrocolorimetry, behavioral modifications, topical skin-lightening agents, broad spectrum sunscreens with protection against visible light, and oral tranexamic acid in advanced cases. Then, we intervene with these energy-based modalities, and the bottom line is, less energy and density is more, with lengthened treatment intervals. In 2023, we’re better than we’ve ever been in terms of our ability to safely and effectively improve melasma.”

Novel lasers

Dr. Friedman also described the UltraClear, a novel ablative fractional 2,910-nm erbium-doped glass fiber laser that delivers a customized blend of ablation and coagulation based on the patient’s condition, skin type, and tolerability for down time. He provided an overview of the versatility of what he described as highly customizable technology for conditions such as photoaging and dyschromia in patients of various skin types, making it a very versatile platform in his practice.

The AVAVA MIRIA system is a “next generation” laser “where you’re able to use a focal point. Basically, you’re treating the skin from the inside out in a 3D manner and you’re able to focus intradermally up to 1 mm with high energy 1,064 nm or 1,550 nm,” he said. “It’s a unique conical geometry that spares the epidermis, combined with sapphire tip cooling and images the skin at the same time with the potential for personalized treatments of dyschromia and photoaging in all skin types. It’s truly remarkable where the technology is heading.”

Dr. Friedman disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Galderma, Acclaro, Merz Aesthetics, Solta Medical, and Cytrellis. He has conducted contracted research for Sofwave and is a member of the speakers bureau for Solta Medical and Candela.

PHOENIX – Ever since PicoSure became the first picosecond laser cleared by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of unwanted tattoos and pigmented lesions in 2012, new uses for this technology continue to expand.

Now, several different FDA-cleared picosecond devices are used for treating conditions ranging from nevus of Ota, café-au-lait macules, and lentigines to melasma, photoaging, yellow tattoos, and recalcitrant tattoos. These include PicoWay, PicoSure, Enlighten, PicoPlus, PiQo4, and Quanta Pico, among others.

“PicoWay technology has integrated nicely into my practice in Houston, the most ethnically diverse city in the country, with its ability to safely treat a number of various benign, congenital, and acquired epidermal and dermal pigmented lesions with ultrashort pulse duration and low thermal impact, which greatly reduces the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation even in darker skin types,” Paul M. Friedman, MD, director of the Dermatology and Laser Surgery Center, Houston, said at the annual conference of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery.

Dr. Friedman

He emphasized the importance of therapeutic clinical endpoints, noting that with q-switched lasers, “you’re looking for immediate whitening, whereas with picosecond lasers, your endpoint is slight whitening or slight darkening depending on wavelength, indication, and skin type. The ability to fractionate picosecond pulses has also allowed us to utilize this technology for photoaging as well as acne scarring.”

The PicoWay system includes a 730-nm picosecond titanium sapphire handpiece, which is FDA cleared for treatment of benign pigmented lesions and blue and green tattoo removal. Dr. Friedman said that he has seen good clinical results using the handpiece for café-au-lait macules, particularly in skin of color.

In an abstract presented at the ASLMS meeting, he and his colleagues presented a retrospective review of 12 patients with café-au-lait macules with Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI who were treated with the PicoWay 730 nm handpiece between April 2021 and January 2023. Patients received a mean of 3.1 treatments at intervals that ranged from 5 to 40 weeks. Clinical photographs were graded by three board-certified dermatologists using a 5-point visual analogue scale.

Overall, patients were rated to have a mean improvement of 26%-50%. Two patients achieved 100% clearance after four to five treatment sessions. “Café-au-lait macules with smooth borders responded less well to laser treatment, confirming prior studies at our center,” he said. “We often educate parents that café-au-lait macules may recur over time, especially with repeated sun exposure.”
 

Treating melasma

Dr. Friedman’s go-to devices for melasma include the low-density, low-energy 1,927-nm fractional diode laser; the 1,064 nm picosecond Nd:YAG, the low-fluence 1,064 nm Q-switched Nd:YAG with a nanosecond pulse duration, and the 595-nm pulsed dye laser for lesions exhibiting underlying vascularity. He said that combining therapies that target pigment and vasculature may be ideal to prevent relapses. “Melasma is a multifactorial condition so by improving patient education and expectation alongside advances in laser treatment of melasma, we have ultimately improved our ability to treat this condition,” he said.

“We’re approaching it from all angles, with ultraviolet photography and spectrocolorimetry, behavioral modifications, topical skin-lightening agents, broad spectrum sunscreens with protection against visible light, and oral tranexamic acid in advanced cases. Then, we intervene with these energy-based modalities, and the bottom line is, less energy and density is more, with lengthened treatment intervals. In 2023, we’re better than we’ve ever been in terms of our ability to safely and effectively improve melasma.”

Novel lasers

Dr. Friedman also described the UltraClear, a novel ablative fractional 2,910-nm erbium-doped glass fiber laser that delivers a customized blend of ablation and coagulation based on the patient’s condition, skin type, and tolerability for down time. He provided an overview of the versatility of what he described as highly customizable technology for conditions such as photoaging and dyschromia in patients of various skin types, making it a very versatile platform in his practice.

The AVAVA MIRIA system is a “next generation” laser “where you’re able to use a focal point. Basically, you’re treating the skin from the inside out in a 3D manner and you’re able to focus intradermally up to 1 mm with high energy 1,064 nm or 1,550 nm,” he said. “It’s a unique conical geometry that spares the epidermis, combined with sapphire tip cooling and images the skin at the same time with the potential for personalized treatments of dyschromia and photoaging in all skin types. It’s truly remarkable where the technology is heading.”

Dr. Friedman disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Galderma, Acclaro, Merz Aesthetics, Solta Medical, and Cytrellis. He has conducted contracted research for Sofwave and is a member of the speakers bureau for Solta Medical and Candela.

PHOENIX – Ever since PicoSure became the first picosecond laser cleared by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of unwanted tattoos and pigmented lesions in 2012, new uses for this technology continue to expand.

Now, several different FDA-cleared picosecond devices are used for treating conditions ranging from nevus of Ota, café-au-lait macules, and lentigines to melasma, photoaging, yellow tattoos, and recalcitrant tattoos. These include PicoWay, PicoSure, Enlighten, PicoPlus, PiQo4, and Quanta Pico, among others.

“PicoWay technology has integrated nicely into my practice in Houston, the most ethnically diverse city in the country, with its ability to safely treat a number of various benign, congenital, and acquired epidermal and dermal pigmented lesions with ultrashort pulse duration and low thermal impact, which greatly reduces the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation even in darker skin types,” Paul M. Friedman, MD, director of the Dermatology and Laser Surgery Center, Houston, said at the annual conference of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery.

Dr. Friedman

He emphasized the importance of therapeutic clinical endpoints, noting that with q-switched lasers, “you’re looking for immediate whitening, whereas with picosecond lasers, your endpoint is slight whitening or slight darkening depending on wavelength, indication, and skin type. The ability to fractionate picosecond pulses has also allowed us to utilize this technology for photoaging as well as acne scarring.”

The PicoWay system includes a 730-nm picosecond titanium sapphire handpiece, which is FDA cleared for treatment of benign pigmented lesions and blue and green tattoo removal. Dr. Friedman said that he has seen good clinical results using the handpiece for café-au-lait macules, particularly in skin of color.

In an abstract presented at the ASLMS meeting, he and his colleagues presented a retrospective review of 12 patients with café-au-lait macules with Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI who were treated with the PicoWay 730 nm handpiece between April 2021 and January 2023. Patients received a mean of 3.1 treatments at intervals that ranged from 5 to 40 weeks. Clinical photographs were graded by three board-certified dermatologists using a 5-point visual analogue scale.

Overall, patients were rated to have a mean improvement of 26%-50%. Two patients achieved 100% clearance after four to five treatment sessions. “Café-au-lait macules with smooth borders responded less well to laser treatment, confirming prior studies at our center,” he said. “We often educate parents that café-au-lait macules may recur over time, especially with repeated sun exposure.”
 

Treating melasma

Dr. Friedman’s go-to devices for melasma include the low-density, low-energy 1,927-nm fractional diode laser; the 1,064 nm picosecond Nd:YAG, the low-fluence 1,064 nm Q-switched Nd:YAG with a nanosecond pulse duration, and the 595-nm pulsed dye laser for lesions exhibiting underlying vascularity. He said that combining therapies that target pigment and vasculature may be ideal to prevent relapses. “Melasma is a multifactorial condition so by improving patient education and expectation alongside advances in laser treatment of melasma, we have ultimately improved our ability to treat this condition,” he said.

“We’re approaching it from all angles, with ultraviolet photography and spectrocolorimetry, behavioral modifications, topical skin-lightening agents, broad spectrum sunscreens with protection against visible light, and oral tranexamic acid in advanced cases. Then, we intervene with these energy-based modalities, and the bottom line is, less energy and density is more, with lengthened treatment intervals. In 2023, we’re better than we’ve ever been in terms of our ability to safely and effectively improve melasma.”

Novel lasers

Dr. Friedman also described the UltraClear, a novel ablative fractional 2,910-nm erbium-doped glass fiber laser that delivers a customized blend of ablation and coagulation based on the patient’s condition, skin type, and tolerability for down time. He provided an overview of the versatility of what he described as highly customizable technology for conditions such as photoaging and dyschromia in patients of various skin types, making it a very versatile platform in his practice.

The AVAVA MIRIA system is a “next generation” laser “where you’re able to use a focal point. Basically, you’re treating the skin from the inside out in a 3D manner and you’re able to focus intradermally up to 1 mm with high energy 1,064 nm or 1,550 nm,” he said. “It’s a unique conical geometry that spares the epidermis, combined with sapphire tip cooling and images the skin at the same time with the potential for personalized treatments of dyschromia and photoaging in all skin types. It’s truly remarkable where the technology is heading.”

Dr. Friedman disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Galderma, Acclaro, Merz Aesthetics, Solta Medical, and Cytrellis. He has conducted contracted research for Sofwave and is a member of the speakers bureau for Solta Medical and Candela.

To the Editor:

Vitiligolike depigmentation has been known to develop around the sites of origin of melanoma or more rarely in patients treated with antimelanoma therapy.¹ Vitiligo is characterized by white patchy depigmentation of the skin caused by the loss of functional melanocytes from the epidermis. The exact mechanisms of disease are unknown and multifactorial; however, autoimmunity plays a central role. Interferon gamma (IFN-γ), C-X-C chemokine ligand 10, and IL-22 have been identified as key mediators in an inflammatory cascade leading to the stimulation of the innate immune response against melanocyte antigens.^2,3 Research suggests melanoma-associated vitiligolike leukoderma also results from an immune reaction directed against antigenic determinants shared by both normal and malignant melanocytes.³ Vitiligolike lesions have been associated with the use of immunomodulatory agents such as nivolumab, a fully humanized monoclonal IgG4 antibody, which blocks the programmed cell death protein 1 (PD-1) receptor that normally is expressed on T cells during the effector phase of T-cell activation.^4,5 In the tumor microenvironment, the PD-1 receptor is stimulated, leading to downregulation of the T-cell effector function and destruction of T cells.⁵ Due to T-cell apoptosis and consequent suppression of the immune response, tumorigenesis continues. By inhibiting the PD-1 receptor, nivolumab increases the number of active T cells and antitumor response. However, the distressing side effect of vitiligolike depigmentation has been reported in 15% to 25% of treated patients.⁶

In a meta-analysis by Teulings et al,⁷ patients with new-onset vitiligo and malignant melanoma demonstrated a 2-fold decrease in cancer progression and a 4-fold decreased risk for death vs patients without vitiligo development. Thus, in patients with melanoma, vitiligolike depigmentation should be considered a good prognostic indicator as well as a visible sign of spontaneous or therapy-induced antihumoral immune response against melanocyte differentiation antigens, as it is associated with a notable survival benefit in patients receiving immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma.³ We describe a case of diffuse vitiligolike depigmentation that developed suddenly during nivolumab treatment, causing much distress to the patient.

A 75-year-old woman presented to the clinic with a chief concern of sudden diffuse skin discoloration primarily affecting the face, hands, and extremities of 3 weeks’ duration. She had a medical history of metastatic melanoma—the site of the primary melanoma was never identified—and she was undergoing immune-modulating therapy with nivolumab. She was on her fifth month of treatment and was experiencing a robust therapeutic response with a reported 100% clearance of the metastatic melanoma as observed on a positron emission tomography scan. The patchy depigmentation of skin was causing her much distress. Physical examination revealed diffuse patches of hypopigmentation on the trunk, face, and extremities (Figure). Shave biopsies of the right lateral arm demonstrated changes consistent with vitiligo, with an adjacent biopsy illustrating normal skin characteristics. Triamcinolone ointment 0.1% was initiated, with instruction to apply it to affected areas twice daily for 2 weeks. However, there was no improvement, and she discontinued use.

At 3-month follow-up, the depigmentation persisted, prompting a trial of hydroquinone cream 4% to be used sparingly in cosmetically sensitive areas such as the face and dorsal aspects of the hands. Additionally, diligent photoprotection was advised. Upon re-evaluation 9 months later, the patient remained in cancer remission, continued nivolumab therapy, and reported improvement in the hypopigmentation with a more even skin color with topical hydroquinone use. She no longer noticed starkly contrasting hypopigmented patches.

Vitiligo is a benign skin condition characterized by white depigmented macules and patches. The key feature of the disorder is loss of functional melanocytes from the cutaneous epidermis and sometimes from the hair follicles, with various theories on the cause. It has been suggested that the disease is multifactorial, involving both genetics and environmental factors.² Regardless of the exact mechanism, the result is always the same: loss of melanin pigment in cells due to loss of melanocytes.

Autoimmunity plays a central role in the causation of vitiligo and was first suspected as a possible cause due to the association of vitiligo with several other autoimmune disorders, such as thyroiditis.⁸ An epidemiological survey from the United Kingdom and North America (N=2624) found that 19.4% of vitiligo patients aged 20 years or older also reported a clinical history of autoimmune thyroid disease compared with 2.4% of the overall White population of the same age.⁹ Interferon gamma, C-X-C chemokine ligand 10, and IL-22 receptors stimulate the innate immune response, resulting in an overactive danger signaling cascade, which leads to proinflammatory signals against melanocyte antigens.^2,3 The adaptive immune system also participates in the progression of vitiligo by activating dermal dendritic cells to attack melanocytes along with melanocyte-specific cytotoxic T cells.

Immunomodulatory agents utilized in the treatment of metastatic melanoma have been linked to vitiligolike depigmentation. In those receiving PD-1 immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma, vitiligolike lesions have been reported in 15% to 25% of patients.⁶ Typically, the PD-1 molecule has a regulatory function on effector T cells. Interaction of the PD-1 receptor with its ligands occurs primarily in peripheral tissue causing apoptosis and downregulation of effector T cells with the goal of decreasing collateral damage to surrounding tissues by active T cells.⁵ In the tumor microenvironment, however, suppression of the host’s immune response is enhanced by aberrant stimulation of the PD-1 receptor, causing downregulation of the T-cell effector function, T-cell destruction, and apoptosis, which results in continued tumor growth. Nivolumab, a fully humanized monoclonal IgG4 antibody, selectively inhibits the PD-1 receptor, disrupting the regulator pathway that would typically end in T-cell destruction.⁵ Accordingly, the population of active T cells is increased along with the antitumor response.^4,10 Nivolumab exhibits success as an immunotherapeutic agent, with an overall survival rate in patients with metastatic melanoma undergoing nivolumab therapy of 41% to 42% at 3 years and 35% at 5 years.¹¹ However, therapeutic manipulation of the host’s immune response does not come without a cost. Vitiligolike lesions have been reported in up to a quarter of patients receiving PD-1 immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma.⁶

The relationship between vitiligolike depigmentation and melanoma can be explained by the immune activation against antigens associated with melanoma that also are expressed by normal melanocytes. In clinical observations of patients with melanoma and patients with vitiligo, antibodies to human melanocyte antigens were present in 80% (24/30) of patients vs 7% (2/28) in the control group.¹² The autoimmune response results from a cross-reaction of melanoma cells that share the same antigens as normal melanocytes, such as melanoma antigen recognized by T cells 1 (MART-1), gp100, and tyrosinase.^13,14

Development of vitiligolike depigmentation in patients with metastatic melanoma treated with nivolumab has been reported to occur between 2 and 15 months after the start of PD-1 therapy. This side effect of treatment correlates with favorable clinical outcomes.^15,16 Enhancing immune recognition of melanocytes in patients with melanoma confers a survival advantage, as studies by Koh et al¹⁷ and Norlund et al¹⁸ involving patients who developed vitiligolike hypopigmentation associated with malignant melanoma indicated a better prognosis than for those without hypopigmentation. The 5-year survival rate of patients with both malignant melanoma and vitiligo was reported as 60% to 67% when it was estimated that only 30% to 50% of patients should have survived that duration of time.^17,18 Similarly, a systematic review of patients with melanoma stages III and IV reported that those with associated hypopigmentation had a 2- to 4-fold decreased risk of disease progression and death compared to patients without depigmentation.⁷

Use of traditional treatment therapies for vitiligo is based on the ability of the therapy to suppress the immune system. However, in patients with metastatic melanoma undergoing immune-modulating cancer therapies, traditional treatment options may counter the antitumor effects of the targeted immunotherapies and should be used with caution. Our patient displayed improvement in the appearance of her starkly contrasting hypopigmented patches with the use of hydroquinone cream 4%, which induced necrotic death of melanocytes by inhibiting the conversion of L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine to melanin by tyrosinase.¹⁹ The effect achieved by using topical hydroquinone 4% was a lighter skin appearance in areas of application.

There is no cure for vitiligo, and although it is a benign condition, it can negatively impact a patient's quality of life. In some countries, vitiligo is confused with leprosy, resulting in a social stigma attached to the diagnosis. Many patients are frightened or embarrassed by the diagnosis of vitiligo and its effects, and they often experience discrimination.² Patients with vitiligo also experience more psychological difficulties such as depression.²⁰ The unpredictability of vitiligo is associated with negative emotions including fear of spreading the lesions, shame, insecurity, and sadness.²¹ Supportive care measures, including psychological support and counseling, are recommended. Additionally, upon initiation of anti–PD-1 therapies, expectations should be discussed with patients concerning the possibilities of depigmentation and associated treatment results. Although the occurrence of vitiligo may cause the patient concern, it should be communicated that its presence is a positive indicator of a vigorous antimelanoma immunity and an increased survival rate.⁷

Vitiligolike depigmentation is a known rare adverse effect of nivolumab treatment. Although aesthetically unfavorable for the patient, the development of vitiligolike lesions while undergoing immunotherapy for melanoma may be a sign of a promising clinical outcome due to an effective immune response to melanoma antigens. Our patient remains in remission without any evidence of melanoma after 9 months of therapy, which offers support for a promising outcome for melanoma patients who experience vitiligolike depigmentation.

To the Editor:

Vitiligolike depigmentation has been known to develop around the sites of origin of melanoma or more rarely in patients treated with antimelanoma therapy.¹ Vitiligo is characterized by white patchy depigmentation of the skin caused by the loss of functional melanocytes from the epidermis. The exact mechanisms of disease are unknown and multifactorial; however, autoimmunity plays a central role. Interferon gamma (IFN-γ), C-X-C chemokine ligand 10, and IL-22 have been identified as key mediators in an inflammatory cascade leading to the stimulation of the innate immune response against melanocyte antigens.^2,3 Research suggests melanoma-associated vitiligolike leukoderma also results from an immune reaction directed against antigenic determinants shared by both normal and malignant melanocytes.³ Vitiligolike lesions have been associated with the use of immunomodulatory agents such as nivolumab, a fully humanized monoclonal IgG4 antibody, which blocks the programmed cell death protein 1 (PD-1) receptor that normally is expressed on T cells during the effector phase of T-cell activation.^4,5 In the tumor microenvironment, the PD-1 receptor is stimulated, leading to downregulation of the T-cell effector function and destruction of T cells.⁵ Due to T-cell apoptosis and consequent suppression of the immune response, tumorigenesis continues. By inhibiting the PD-1 receptor, nivolumab increases the number of active T cells and antitumor response. However, the distressing side effect of vitiligolike depigmentation has been reported in 15% to 25% of treated patients.⁶

In a meta-analysis by Teulings et al,⁷ patients with new-onset vitiligo and malignant melanoma demonstrated a 2-fold decrease in cancer progression and a 4-fold decreased risk for death vs patients without vitiligo development. Thus, in patients with melanoma, vitiligolike depigmentation should be considered a good prognostic indicator as well as a visible sign of spontaneous or therapy-induced antihumoral immune response against melanocyte differentiation antigens, as it is associated with a notable survival benefit in patients receiving immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma.³ We describe a case of diffuse vitiligolike depigmentation that developed suddenly during nivolumab treatment, causing much distress to the patient.

A 75-year-old woman presented to the clinic with a chief concern of sudden diffuse skin discoloration primarily affecting the face, hands, and extremities of 3 weeks’ duration. She had a medical history of metastatic melanoma—the site of the primary melanoma was never identified—and she was undergoing immune-modulating therapy with nivolumab. She was on her fifth month of treatment and was experiencing a robust therapeutic response with a reported 100% clearance of the metastatic melanoma as observed on a positron emission tomography scan. The patchy depigmentation of skin was causing her much distress. Physical examination revealed diffuse patches of hypopigmentation on the trunk, face, and extremities (Figure). Shave biopsies of the right lateral arm demonstrated changes consistent with vitiligo, with an adjacent biopsy illustrating normal skin characteristics. Triamcinolone ointment 0.1% was initiated, with instruction to apply it to affected areas twice daily for 2 weeks. However, there was no improvement, and she discontinued use.

At 3-month follow-up, the depigmentation persisted, prompting a trial of hydroquinone cream 4% to be used sparingly in cosmetically sensitive areas such as the face and dorsal aspects of the hands. Additionally, diligent photoprotection was advised. Upon re-evaluation 9 months later, the patient remained in cancer remission, continued nivolumab therapy, and reported improvement in the hypopigmentation with a more even skin color with topical hydroquinone use. She no longer noticed starkly contrasting hypopigmented patches.

Vitiligo is a benign skin condition characterized by white depigmented macules and patches. The key feature of the disorder is loss of functional melanocytes from the cutaneous epidermis and sometimes from the hair follicles, with various theories on the cause. It has been suggested that the disease is multifactorial, involving both genetics and environmental factors.² Regardless of the exact mechanism, the result is always the same: loss of melanin pigment in cells due to loss of melanocytes.

Autoimmunity plays a central role in the causation of vitiligo and was first suspected as a possible cause due to the association of vitiligo with several other autoimmune disorders, such as thyroiditis.⁸ An epidemiological survey from the United Kingdom and North America (N=2624) found that 19.4% of vitiligo patients aged 20 years or older also reported a clinical history of autoimmune thyroid disease compared with 2.4% of the overall White population of the same age.⁹ Interferon gamma, C-X-C chemokine ligand 10, and IL-22 receptors stimulate the innate immune response, resulting in an overactive danger signaling cascade, which leads to proinflammatory signals against melanocyte antigens.^2,3 The adaptive immune system also participates in the progression of vitiligo by activating dermal dendritic cells to attack melanocytes along with melanocyte-specific cytotoxic T cells.

Immunomodulatory agents utilized in the treatment of metastatic melanoma have been linked to vitiligolike depigmentation. In those receiving PD-1 immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma, vitiligolike lesions have been reported in 15% to 25% of patients.⁶ Typically, the PD-1 molecule has a regulatory function on effector T cells. Interaction of the PD-1 receptor with its ligands occurs primarily in peripheral tissue causing apoptosis and downregulation of effector T cells with the goal of decreasing collateral damage to surrounding tissues by active T cells.⁵ In the tumor microenvironment, however, suppression of the host’s immune response is enhanced by aberrant stimulation of the PD-1 receptor, causing downregulation of the T-cell effector function, T-cell destruction, and apoptosis, which results in continued tumor growth. Nivolumab, a fully humanized monoclonal IgG4 antibody, selectively inhibits the PD-1 receptor, disrupting the regulator pathway that would typically end in T-cell destruction.⁵ Accordingly, the population of active T cells is increased along with the antitumor response.^4,10 Nivolumab exhibits success as an immunotherapeutic agent, with an overall survival rate in patients with metastatic melanoma undergoing nivolumab therapy of 41% to 42% at 3 years and 35% at 5 years.¹¹ However, therapeutic manipulation of the host’s immune response does not come without a cost. Vitiligolike lesions have been reported in up to a quarter of patients receiving PD-1 immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma.⁶

The relationship between vitiligolike depigmentation and melanoma can be explained by the immune activation against antigens associated with melanoma that also are expressed by normal melanocytes. In clinical observations of patients with melanoma and patients with vitiligo, antibodies to human melanocyte antigens were present in 80% (24/30) of patients vs 7% (2/28) in the control group.¹² The autoimmune response results from a cross-reaction of melanoma cells that share the same antigens as normal melanocytes, such as melanoma antigen recognized by T cells 1 (MART-1), gp100, and tyrosinase.^13,14

Development of vitiligolike depigmentation in patients with metastatic melanoma treated with nivolumab has been reported to occur between 2 and 15 months after the start of PD-1 therapy. This side effect of treatment correlates with favorable clinical outcomes.^15,16 Enhancing immune recognition of melanocytes in patients with melanoma confers a survival advantage, as studies by Koh et al¹⁷ and Norlund et al¹⁸ involving patients who developed vitiligolike hypopigmentation associated with malignant melanoma indicated a better prognosis than for those without hypopigmentation. The 5-year survival rate of patients with both malignant melanoma and vitiligo was reported as 60% to 67% when it was estimated that only 30% to 50% of patients should have survived that duration of time.^17,18 Similarly, a systematic review of patients with melanoma stages III and IV reported that those with associated hypopigmentation had a 2- to 4-fold decreased risk of disease progression and death compared to patients without depigmentation.⁷

Use of traditional treatment therapies for vitiligo is based on the ability of the therapy to suppress the immune system. However, in patients with metastatic melanoma undergoing immune-modulating cancer therapies, traditional treatment options may counter the antitumor effects of the targeted immunotherapies and should be used with caution. Our patient displayed improvement in the appearance of her starkly contrasting hypopigmented patches with the use of hydroquinone cream 4%, which induced necrotic death of melanocytes by inhibiting the conversion of L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine to melanin by tyrosinase.¹⁹ The effect achieved by using topical hydroquinone 4% was a lighter skin appearance in areas of application.

There is no cure for vitiligo, and although it is a benign condition, it can negatively impact a patient's quality of life. In some countries, vitiligo is confused with leprosy, resulting in a social stigma attached to the diagnosis. Many patients are frightened or embarrassed by the diagnosis of vitiligo and its effects, and they often experience discrimination.² Patients with vitiligo also experience more psychological difficulties such as depression.²⁰ The unpredictability of vitiligo is associated with negative emotions including fear of spreading the lesions, shame, insecurity, and sadness.²¹ Supportive care measures, including psychological support and counseling, are recommended. Additionally, upon initiation of anti–PD-1 therapies, expectations should be discussed with patients concerning the possibilities of depigmentation and associated treatment results. Although the occurrence of vitiligo may cause the patient concern, it should be communicated that its presence is a positive indicator of a vigorous antimelanoma immunity and an increased survival rate.⁷

Vitiligolike depigmentation is a known rare adverse effect of nivolumab treatment. Although aesthetically unfavorable for the patient, the development of vitiligolike lesions while undergoing immunotherapy for melanoma may be a sign of a promising clinical outcome due to an effective immune response to melanoma antigens. Our patient remains in remission without any evidence of melanoma after 9 months of therapy, which offers support for a promising outcome for melanoma patients who experience vitiligolike depigmentation.

To the Editor:

Vitiligolike depigmentation has been known to develop around the sites of origin of melanoma or more rarely in patients treated with antimelanoma therapy.¹ Vitiligo is characterized by white patchy depigmentation of the skin caused by the loss of functional melanocytes from the epidermis. The exact mechanisms of disease are unknown and multifactorial; however, autoimmunity plays a central role. Interferon gamma (IFN-γ), C-X-C chemokine ligand 10, and IL-22 have been identified as key mediators in an inflammatory cascade leading to the stimulation of the innate immune response against melanocyte antigens.^2,3 Research suggests melanoma-associated vitiligolike leukoderma also results from an immune reaction directed against antigenic determinants shared by both normal and malignant melanocytes.³ Vitiligolike lesions have been associated with the use of immunomodulatory agents such as nivolumab, a fully humanized monoclonal IgG4 antibody, which blocks the programmed cell death protein 1 (PD-1) receptor that normally is expressed on T cells during the effector phase of T-cell activation.^4,5 In the tumor microenvironment, the PD-1 receptor is stimulated, leading to downregulation of the T-cell effector function and destruction of T cells.⁵ Due to T-cell apoptosis and consequent suppression of the immune response, tumorigenesis continues. By inhibiting the PD-1 receptor, nivolumab increases the number of active T cells and antitumor response. However, the distressing side effect of vitiligolike depigmentation has been reported in 15% to 25% of treated patients.⁶

In a meta-analysis by Teulings et al,⁷ patients with new-onset vitiligo and malignant melanoma demonstrated a 2-fold decrease in cancer progression and a 4-fold decreased risk for death vs patients without vitiligo development. Thus, in patients with melanoma, vitiligolike depigmentation should be considered a good prognostic indicator as well as a visible sign of spontaneous or therapy-induced antihumoral immune response against melanocyte differentiation antigens, as it is associated with a notable survival benefit in patients receiving immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma.³ We describe a case of diffuse vitiligolike depigmentation that developed suddenly during nivolumab treatment, causing much distress to the patient.

A 75-year-old woman presented to the clinic with a chief concern of sudden diffuse skin discoloration primarily affecting the face, hands, and extremities of 3 weeks’ duration. She had a medical history of metastatic melanoma—the site of the primary melanoma was never identified—and she was undergoing immune-modulating therapy with nivolumab. She was on her fifth month of treatment and was experiencing a robust therapeutic response with a reported 100% clearance of the metastatic melanoma as observed on a positron emission tomography scan. The patchy depigmentation of skin was causing her much distress. Physical examination revealed diffuse patches of hypopigmentation on the trunk, face, and extremities (Figure). Shave biopsies of the right lateral arm demonstrated changes consistent with vitiligo, with an adjacent biopsy illustrating normal skin characteristics. Triamcinolone ointment 0.1% was initiated, with instruction to apply it to affected areas twice daily for 2 weeks. However, there was no improvement, and she discontinued use.

At 3-month follow-up, the depigmentation persisted, prompting a trial of hydroquinone cream 4% to be used sparingly in cosmetically sensitive areas such as the face and dorsal aspects of the hands. Additionally, diligent photoprotection was advised. Upon re-evaluation 9 months later, the patient remained in cancer remission, continued nivolumab therapy, and reported improvement in the hypopigmentation with a more even skin color with topical hydroquinone use. She no longer noticed starkly contrasting hypopigmented patches.

Vitiligo is a benign skin condition characterized by white depigmented macules and patches. The key feature of the disorder is loss of functional melanocytes from the cutaneous epidermis and sometimes from the hair follicles, with various theories on the cause. It has been suggested that the disease is multifactorial, involving both genetics and environmental factors.² Regardless of the exact mechanism, the result is always the same: loss of melanin pigment in cells due to loss of melanocytes.

Autoimmunity plays a central role in the causation of vitiligo and was first suspected as a possible cause due to the association of vitiligo with several other autoimmune disorders, such as thyroiditis.⁸ An epidemiological survey from the United Kingdom and North America (N=2624) found that 19.4% of vitiligo patients aged 20 years or older also reported a clinical history of autoimmune thyroid disease compared with 2.4% of the overall White population of the same age.⁹ Interferon gamma, C-X-C chemokine ligand 10, and IL-22 receptors stimulate the innate immune response, resulting in an overactive danger signaling cascade, which leads to proinflammatory signals against melanocyte antigens.^2,3 The adaptive immune system also participates in the progression of vitiligo by activating dermal dendritic cells to attack melanocytes along with melanocyte-specific cytotoxic T cells.

Immunomodulatory agents utilized in the treatment of metastatic melanoma have been linked to vitiligolike depigmentation. In those receiving PD-1 immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma, vitiligolike lesions have been reported in 15% to 25% of patients.⁶ Typically, the PD-1 molecule has a regulatory function on effector T cells. Interaction of the PD-1 receptor with its ligands occurs primarily in peripheral tissue causing apoptosis and downregulation of effector T cells with the goal of decreasing collateral damage to surrounding tissues by active T cells.⁵ In the tumor microenvironment, however, suppression of the host’s immune response is enhanced by aberrant stimulation of the PD-1 receptor, causing downregulation of the T-cell effector function, T-cell destruction, and apoptosis, which results in continued tumor growth. Nivolumab, a fully humanized monoclonal IgG4 antibody, selectively inhibits the PD-1 receptor, disrupting the regulator pathway that would typically end in T-cell destruction.⁵ Accordingly, the population of active T cells is increased along with the antitumor response.^4,10 Nivolumab exhibits success as an immunotherapeutic agent, with an overall survival rate in patients with metastatic melanoma undergoing nivolumab therapy of 41% to 42% at 3 years and 35% at 5 years.¹¹ However, therapeutic manipulation of the host’s immune response does not come without a cost. Vitiligolike lesions have been reported in up to a quarter of patients receiving PD-1 immunotherapy for metastatic melanoma.⁶

The relationship between vitiligolike depigmentation and melanoma can be explained by the immune activation against antigens associated with melanoma that also are expressed by normal melanocytes. In clinical observations of patients with melanoma and patients with vitiligo, antibodies to human melanocyte antigens were present in 80% (24/30) of patients vs 7% (2/28) in the control group.¹² The autoimmune response results from a cross-reaction of melanoma cells that share the same antigens as normal melanocytes, such as melanoma antigen recognized by T cells 1 (MART-1), gp100, and tyrosinase.^13,14

Development of vitiligolike depigmentation in patients with metastatic melanoma treated with nivolumab has been reported to occur between 2 and 15 months after the start of PD-1 therapy. This side effect of treatment correlates with favorable clinical outcomes.^15,16 Enhancing immune recognition of melanocytes in patients with melanoma confers a survival advantage, as studies by Koh et al¹⁷ and Norlund et al¹⁸ involving patients who developed vitiligolike hypopigmentation associated with malignant melanoma indicated a better prognosis than for those without hypopigmentation. The 5-year survival rate of patients with both malignant melanoma and vitiligo was reported as 60% to 67% when it was estimated that only 30% to 50% of patients should have survived that duration of time.^17,18 Similarly, a systematic review of patients with melanoma stages III and IV reported that those with associated hypopigmentation had a 2- to 4-fold decreased risk of disease progression and death compared to patients without depigmentation.⁷

Use of traditional treatment therapies for vitiligo is based on the ability of the therapy to suppress the immune system. However, in patients with metastatic melanoma undergoing immune-modulating cancer therapies, traditional treatment options may counter the antitumor effects of the targeted immunotherapies and should be used with caution. Our patient displayed improvement in the appearance of her starkly contrasting hypopigmented patches with the use of hydroquinone cream 4%, which induced necrotic death of melanocytes by inhibiting the conversion of L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine to melanin by tyrosinase.¹⁹ The effect achieved by using topical hydroquinone 4% was a lighter skin appearance in areas of application.

There is no cure for vitiligo, and although it is a benign condition, it can negatively impact a patient's quality of life. In some countries, vitiligo is confused with leprosy, resulting in a social stigma attached to the diagnosis. Many patients are frightened or embarrassed by the diagnosis of vitiligo and its effects, and they often experience discrimination.² Patients with vitiligo also experience more psychological difficulties such as depression.²⁰ The unpredictability of vitiligo is associated with negative emotions including fear of spreading the lesions, shame, insecurity, and sadness.²¹ Supportive care measures, including psychological support and counseling, are recommended. Additionally, upon initiation of anti–PD-1 therapies, expectations should be discussed with patients concerning the possibilities of depigmentation and associated treatment results. Although the occurrence of vitiligo may cause the patient concern, it should be communicated that its presence is a positive indicator of a vigorous antimelanoma immunity and an increased survival rate.⁷

Vitiligolike depigmentation is a known rare adverse effect of nivolumab treatment. Although aesthetically unfavorable for the patient, the development of vitiligolike lesions while undergoing immunotherapy for melanoma may be a sign of a promising clinical outcome due to an effective immune response to melanoma antigens. Our patient remains in remission without any evidence of melanoma after 9 months of therapy, which offers support for a promising outcome for melanoma patients who experience vitiligolike depigmentation.

Citrus bergamia (bergamot) is a fruit tree thought to originate in the Mediterranean area; its fruit has been a part of the diet in that region since the early 18th century.¹ Bergamot is known to confer antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory activity, and yields proapoptotic effects in the sebaceous gland.^2,3 The plant contains the natural furocoumarin bergapten, which is also known as 5-methoxypsoralen.⁴

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, hypolipemic, and anticancer properties have been associated with bergapten, which is primarily found in bergamot essential oil and used effectively as a photosensitizing agent.⁵ In this capacity, bergamot oil has been used for photodynamic therapy of cutaneous conditions such as vitiligo.⁶ In fact, for several years 5-methoxypsoralen and 8-methoxypsoralen have been used to achieve acceptable clearance rates of psoriasis and vitiligo.⁷ This column focuses on bergapten, as well as the cutaneous conditions for which bergamot has been shown to have some benefits warranting application or further investigation.
 

Bergapten

In a 2021 literature review, Liang et al. cited the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, and other salutary effects associated with bergapten. Based on numerous citations, they also cautioned about the phototoxicity of the compound combined with ultraviolet (UV) light while noting the photoactivation of bergapten for anticancer uses.⁴

The following year, Quetglas-Llabrés et al. acknowledged, in another literature review, the numerous preclinical and in vitro studies demonstrating the therapeutic activity of bergapten and highlighted clinical trials revealing notable lesion clearance rates of psoriasis or vitiligo imparted by oral or topical bergapten along with UV irradiation. Bergapten was also found to be effective as hypolipemic therapy.⁵

Anti-inflammatory topical uses

In a 2017 study by Han et al. of 10 essential oils, bergamot was among the investigated oils, all of which exhibited significant anti-proliferative activity in a preinflamed human dermal fibroblast system simulating chronic inflammation. Bergamot was among three essential oils that also suppressed protein molecules involved with inflammation, immune responses, and tissue remodeling, indicating anti-inflammatory and wound healing characteristics.⁸

More recently, Cristiano et al. reported that ultradeformable nanocarriers containing bergamot essential oil and ammonium glycyrrhizinate were demonstrated in healthy human volunteers to be characterized by the appropriate mean size, size distribution, surface charge, and long-term stability for topical administration. Topical administration on human volunteers also revealed greater activity of the combined agents as compared with a nanosystem loaded only with ammonium glycyrrhizinate. The researchers concluded that this combination of ingredients in ultradeformable vesicles shows potential as topical anti-inflammatory treatment.³

Acne

In a 2020 study using golden hamsters, Sun et al. assessed the effects of the juice and essential oils of bergamot and sweet orange on acne vulgaris engendered by excessive androgen secretion. Among 80 male hamsters randomly divided into 10 groups ranging from low to high doses, all results demonstrated improvement with treatment as seen by decreased growth rates of sebaceous glands, suppressed triglyceride accumulation, lowered inflammatory cytokine release, and apoptosis promotion in sebaceous glands. The authors noted that the essential oils yielded better dose-dependent effects than the juices.²

Psoriasis

In 2019, Perna et al. conducted a literature review on the effects of bergamot essential oil, extract, juice, and polyphenolic fraction on various health metrics. Thirty-one studies (20 involving humans with 1,709 subjects and 11 in rats and mice) were identified. Animal models indicated that bergamot essential oil (10 mg/kg or 20 mg/kg daily for 20 weeks) reduced psoriatic plaques, increased skin collagen content, and fostered hair growth and that bergamot juice (20 mg/kg) diminished proinflammatory cytokines. Human studies showed that bergamot extract and essential oil may reduce blood pressure and improve mental conditions.⁹

Vitiligo

In 2019, Shaaban et al. prepared elastic nanocarriers (spanlastics) to deliver psoralen-containing bergamot oil along with PUVB with the intention of harnessing melanogenic activity to treat vitiligo. Histopathologic assessment on rat skin was conducted before clinical treatment in patients with vitiligo. The spanlastics were deemed to be of suitable nanosize and deformable, yielding consistent bergamot oil release. The bergamot oil included in the nanocarrier was found to enhance photostability and photodynamic activity, with the researchers concluding that bergamot oil nanospanlastics with psoralen-UVB therapy shows potential as a vitiligo therapy.¹⁰

Two years later, Shaaban evaluated bergamot oil formulated in nanostructured lipid carriers as a photosensitizer for photodynamic treatment of vitiligo. The botanical oil was effectively used in the nanostructured lipid carriers with a gel consistency that delivered sustained release of the oil for 24 hours. Preclinical and clinical results in patients were encouraging for the topical photodynamic treatment of vitiligo, with the nanostructured lipid carriers improving the photostability and photodynamic activity of bergamot oil.⁶

Photoaging, photoprotection, and safety concerns

Three decades ago, an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic, and photocarcinogenic characteristics of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens found that UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes could not inhibit the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.¹¹

In a 2015 study assessing the impact of 38% bergamot polyphenolic fraction (a highly concentrated Citrus bergamia fruit extract) on UVB-generated photoaging, Nisticò et al. found that the bergamot compound dose-dependently protected HaCaT cells against UVB-caused oxidative stress and photoaging markers. Suggesting that the high-antioxidant bergamot polyphenolic fraction has potential for use in skin care formulations, the researchers added that the extract seems to induce antiproliferative, immune-modulating, and antiaging activity.¹²In 2022, Alexa et al. performed in vitro tests and found that natural preparations containing bergamot, orange, and clove essential oils do not significantly alter physiological skin parameters and were deemed safe for topical use. An emulsion with bergamot essential oil was also found to reduce the viability of oral squamous cell carcinoma cells.¹³

Conclusion

As a photosensitizing agent, bergamot has an established role in skin care. Beyond its niche role in treatments for vitiligo and psoriasis, this botanical product appears to show potential as an anti-inflammatory agent as well as an ingredient to combat photoaging and skin cancer. Much more research is needed to elucidate the possible wider benefits of this Mediterranean staple.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at [email protected].

References

1. Juber M. Health benefits of bergamot. WebMD. November 29, 2022. Accessed March 21, 2023.

2. Sun P et al. Mediators Inflamm. 2020 Oct 6;2020:8868107.

3. Cristiano MC et al. Biomedicines. 2022 Apr 30;10(5):1039.

4. Liang Y et al. Phytother Res. 2021 Nov;35(11):6131-47.

5. Quetglas-Llabrés MM et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2022 Apr 25;2022:8615242.

6. Shaaban M et al. Expert Opin Drug Deliv. 2021 Jan;18(1):139-50.

7. McNeely W, Goa KL. Drugs. 1998 Oct;56(4):667-90.

8. Han X, Beaumont C, Stevens N. Biochim Open. 2017 Apr 26;5:1-7.

9. Perna S et al. Food Sci Nutr. 2019 Jan 25;7(2):369-84.

10. Shaaban M et al. Drug Deliv Transl Res. 2019 Dec;9(6):1106-16.

11. Dubertret L et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 1990 Nov;7(2-4):251-9.

12. Nisticò S et al. J Biol Regul Homeost Agents. 2015 Jul-Sep;29(3):723-8.

13. Alexa VT et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 1;27(3):990.

Citrus bergamia (bergamot) is a fruit tree thought to originate in the Mediterranean area; its fruit has been a part of the diet in that region since the early 18th century.¹ Bergamot is known to confer antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory activity, and yields proapoptotic effects in the sebaceous gland.^2,3 The plant contains the natural furocoumarin bergapten, which is also known as 5-methoxypsoralen.⁴

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, hypolipemic, and anticancer properties have been associated with bergapten, which is primarily found in bergamot essential oil and used effectively as a photosensitizing agent.⁵ In this capacity, bergamot oil has been used for photodynamic therapy of cutaneous conditions such as vitiligo.⁶ In fact, for several years 5-methoxypsoralen and 8-methoxypsoralen have been used to achieve acceptable clearance rates of psoriasis and vitiligo.⁷ This column focuses on bergapten, as well as the cutaneous conditions for which bergamot has been shown to have some benefits warranting application or further investigation.
 

Bergapten

In a 2021 literature review, Liang et al. cited the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, and other salutary effects associated with bergapten. Based on numerous citations, they also cautioned about the phototoxicity of the compound combined with ultraviolet (UV) light while noting the photoactivation of bergapten for anticancer uses.⁴

The following year, Quetglas-Llabrés et al. acknowledged, in another literature review, the numerous preclinical and in vitro studies demonstrating the therapeutic activity of bergapten and highlighted clinical trials revealing notable lesion clearance rates of psoriasis or vitiligo imparted by oral or topical bergapten along with UV irradiation. Bergapten was also found to be effective as hypolipemic therapy.⁵

Anti-inflammatory topical uses

In a 2017 study by Han et al. of 10 essential oils, bergamot was among the investigated oils, all of which exhibited significant anti-proliferative activity in a preinflamed human dermal fibroblast system simulating chronic inflammation. Bergamot was among three essential oils that also suppressed protein molecules involved with inflammation, immune responses, and tissue remodeling, indicating anti-inflammatory and wound healing characteristics.⁸

More recently, Cristiano et al. reported that ultradeformable nanocarriers containing bergamot essential oil and ammonium glycyrrhizinate were demonstrated in healthy human volunteers to be characterized by the appropriate mean size, size distribution, surface charge, and long-term stability for topical administration. Topical administration on human volunteers also revealed greater activity of the combined agents as compared with a nanosystem loaded only with ammonium glycyrrhizinate. The researchers concluded that this combination of ingredients in ultradeformable vesicles shows potential as topical anti-inflammatory treatment.³

Acne

In a 2020 study using golden hamsters, Sun et al. assessed the effects of the juice and essential oils of bergamot and sweet orange on acne vulgaris engendered by excessive androgen secretion. Among 80 male hamsters randomly divided into 10 groups ranging from low to high doses, all results demonstrated improvement with treatment as seen by decreased growth rates of sebaceous glands, suppressed triglyceride accumulation, lowered inflammatory cytokine release, and apoptosis promotion in sebaceous glands. The authors noted that the essential oils yielded better dose-dependent effects than the juices.²

Psoriasis

In 2019, Perna et al. conducted a literature review on the effects of bergamot essential oil, extract, juice, and polyphenolic fraction on various health metrics. Thirty-one studies (20 involving humans with 1,709 subjects and 11 in rats and mice) were identified. Animal models indicated that bergamot essential oil (10 mg/kg or 20 mg/kg daily for 20 weeks) reduced psoriatic plaques, increased skin collagen content, and fostered hair growth and that bergamot juice (20 mg/kg) diminished proinflammatory cytokines. Human studies showed that bergamot extract and essential oil may reduce blood pressure and improve mental conditions.⁹

Vitiligo

In 2019, Shaaban et al. prepared elastic nanocarriers (spanlastics) to deliver psoralen-containing bergamot oil along with PUVB with the intention of harnessing melanogenic activity to treat vitiligo. Histopathologic assessment on rat skin was conducted before clinical treatment in patients with vitiligo. The spanlastics were deemed to be of suitable nanosize and deformable, yielding consistent bergamot oil release. The bergamot oil included in the nanocarrier was found to enhance photostability and photodynamic activity, with the researchers concluding that bergamot oil nanospanlastics with psoralen-UVB therapy shows potential as a vitiligo therapy.¹⁰

Two years later, Shaaban evaluated bergamot oil formulated in nanostructured lipid carriers as a photosensitizer for photodynamic treatment of vitiligo. The botanical oil was effectively used in the nanostructured lipid carriers with a gel consistency that delivered sustained release of the oil for 24 hours. Preclinical and clinical results in patients were encouraging for the topical photodynamic treatment of vitiligo, with the nanostructured lipid carriers improving the photostability and photodynamic activity of bergamot oil.⁶

Photoaging, photoprotection, and safety concerns

Three decades ago, an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic, and photocarcinogenic characteristics of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens found that UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes could not inhibit the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.¹¹

In a 2015 study assessing the impact of 38% bergamot polyphenolic fraction (a highly concentrated Citrus bergamia fruit extract) on UVB-generated photoaging, Nisticò et al. found that the bergamot compound dose-dependently protected HaCaT cells against UVB-caused oxidative stress and photoaging markers. Suggesting that the high-antioxidant bergamot polyphenolic fraction has potential for use in skin care formulations, the researchers added that the extract seems to induce antiproliferative, immune-modulating, and antiaging activity.¹²In 2022, Alexa et al. performed in vitro tests and found that natural preparations containing bergamot, orange, and clove essential oils do not significantly alter physiological skin parameters and were deemed safe for topical use. An emulsion with bergamot essential oil was also found to reduce the viability of oral squamous cell carcinoma cells.¹³

Conclusion

As a photosensitizing agent, bergamot has an established role in skin care. Beyond its niche role in treatments for vitiligo and psoriasis, this botanical product appears to show potential as an anti-inflammatory agent as well as an ingredient to combat photoaging and skin cancer. Much more research is needed to elucidate the possible wider benefits of this Mediterranean staple.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at [email protected].

References

1. Juber M. Health benefits of bergamot. WebMD. November 29, 2022. Accessed March 21, 2023.

2. Sun P et al. Mediators Inflamm. 2020 Oct 6;2020:8868107.

3. Cristiano MC et al. Biomedicines. 2022 Apr 30;10(5):1039.

4. Liang Y et al. Phytother Res. 2021 Nov;35(11):6131-47.

5. Quetglas-Llabrés MM et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2022 Apr 25;2022:8615242.

6. Shaaban M et al. Expert Opin Drug Deliv. 2021 Jan;18(1):139-50.

7. McNeely W, Goa KL. Drugs. 1998 Oct;56(4):667-90.

8. Han X, Beaumont C, Stevens N. Biochim Open. 2017 Apr 26;5:1-7.

9. Perna S et al. Food Sci Nutr. 2019 Jan 25;7(2):369-84.

10. Shaaban M et al. Drug Deliv Transl Res. 2019 Dec;9(6):1106-16.

11. Dubertret L et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 1990 Nov;7(2-4):251-9.

12. Nisticò S et al. J Biol Regul Homeost Agents. 2015 Jul-Sep;29(3):723-8.

13. Alexa VT et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 1;27(3):990.

Citrus bergamia (bergamot) is a fruit tree thought to originate in the Mediterranean area; its fruit has been a part of the diet in that region since the early 18th century.¹ Bergamot is known to confer antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory activity, and yields proapoptotic effects in the sebaceous gland.^2,3 The plant contains the natural furocoumarin bergapten, which is also known as 5-methoxypsoralen.⁴

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, hypolipemic, and anticancer properties have been associated with bergapten, which is primarily found in bergamot essential oil and used effectively as a photosensitizing agent.⁵ In this capacity, bergamot oil has been used for photodynamic therapy of cutaneous conditions such as vitiligo.⁶ In fact, for several years 5-methoxypsoralen and 8-methoxypsoralen have been used to achieve acceptable clearance rates of psoriasis and vitiligo.⁷ This column focuses on bergapten, as well as the cutaneous conditions for which bergamot has been shown to have some benefits warranting application or further investigation.
 

Bergapten

In a 2021 literature review, Liang et al. cited the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, and other salutary effects associated with bergapten. Based on numerous citations, they also cautioned about the phototoxicity of the compound combined with ultraviolet (UV) light while noting the photoactivation of bergapten for anticancer uses.⁴

The following year, Quetglas-Llabrés et al. acknowledged, in another literature review, the numerous preclinical and in vitro studies demonstrating the therapeutic activity of bergapten and highlighted clinical trials revealing notable lesion clearance rates of psoriasis or vitiligo imparted by oral or topical bergapten along with UV irradiation. Bergapten was also found to be effective as hypolipemic therapy.⁵

Anti-inflammatory topical uses

In a 2017 study by Han et al. of 10 essential oils, bergamot was among the investigated oils, all of which exhibited significant anti-proliferative activity in a preinflamed human dermal fibroblast system simulating chronic inflammation. Bergamot was among three essential oils that also suppressed protein molecules involved with inflammation, immune responses, and tissue remodeling, indicating anti-inflammatory and wound healing characteristics.⁸

More recently, Cristiano et al. reported that ultradeformable nanocarriers containing bergamot essential oil and ammonium glycyrrhizinate were demonstrated in healthy human volunteers to be characterized by the appropriate mean size, size distribution, surface charge, and long-term stability for topical administration. Topical administration on human volunteers also revealed greater activity of the combined agents as compared with a nanosystem loaded only with ammonium glycyrrhizinate. The researchers concluded that this combination of ingredients in ultradeformable vesicles shows potential as topical anti-inflammatory treatment.³

Acne

In a 2020 study using golden hamsters, Sun et al. assessed the effects of the juice and essential oils of bergamot and sweet orange on acne vulgaris engendered by excessive androgen secretion. Among 80 male hamsters randomly divided into 10 groups ranging from low to high doses, all results demonstrated improvement with treatment as seen by decreased growth rates of sebaceous glands, suppressed triglyceride accumulation, lowered inflammatory cytokine release, and apoptosis promotion in sebaceous glands. The authors noted that the essential oils yielded better dose-dependent effects than the juices.²

Psoriasis

In 2019, Perna et al. conducted a literature review on the effects of bergamot essential oil, extract, juice, and polyphenolic fraction on various health metrics. Thirty-one studies (20 involving humans with 1,709 subjects and 11 in rats and mice) were identified. Animal models indicated that bergamot essential oil (10 mg/kg or 20 mg/kg daily for 20 weeks) reduced psoriatic plaques, increased skin collagen content, and fostered hair growth and that bergamot juice (20 mg/kg) diminished proinflammatory cytokines. Human studies showed that bergamot extract and essential oil may reduce blood pressure and improve mental conditions.⁹

Vitiligo

In 2019, Shaaban et al. prepared elastic nanocarriers (spanlastics) to deliver psoralen-containing bergamot oil along with PUVB with the intention of harnessing melanogenic activity to treat vitiligo. Histopathologic assessment on rat skin was conducted before clinical treatment in patients with vitiligo. The spanlastics were deemed to be of suitable nanosize and deformable, yielding consistent bergamot oil release. The bergamot oil included in the nanocarrier was found to enhance photostability and photodynamic activity, with the researchers concluding that bergamot oil nanospanlastics with psoralen-UVB therapy shows potential as a vitiligo therapy.¹⁰

Two years later, Shaaban evaluated bergamot oil formulated in nanostructured lipid carriers as a photosensitizer for photodynamic treatment of vitiligo. The botanical oil was effectively used in the nanostructured lipid carriers with a gel consistency that delivered sustained release of the oil for 24 hours. Preclinical and clinical results in patients were encouraging for the topical photodynamic treatment of vitiligo, with the nanostructured lipid carriers improving the photostability and photodynamic activity of bergamot oil.⁶

Photoaging, photoprotection, and safety concerns

Three decades ago, an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic, and photocarcinogenic characteristics of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens found that UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes could not inhibit the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.¹¹

In a 2015 study assessing the impact of 38% bergamot polyphenolic fraction (a highly concentrated Citrus bergamia fruit extract) on UVB-generated photoaging, Nisticò et al. found that the bergamot compound dose-dependently protected HaCaT cells against UVB-caused oxidative stress and photoaging markers. Suggesting that the high-antioxidant bergamot polyphenolic fraction has potential for use in skin care formulations, the researchers added that the extract seems to induce antiproliferative, immune-modulating, and antiaging activity.¹²In 2022, Alexa et al. performed in vitro tests and found that natural preparations containing bergamot, orange, and clove essential oils do not significantly alter physiological skin parameters and were deemed safe for topical use. An emulsion with bergamot essential oil was also found to reduce the viability of oral squamous cell carcinoma cells.¹³

Conclusion

As a photosensitizing agent, bergamot has an established role in skin care. Beyond its niche role in treatments for vitiligo and psoriasis, this botanical product appears to show potential as an anti-inflammatory agent as well as an ingredient to combat photoaging and skin cancer. Much more research is needed to elucidate the possible wider benefits of this Mediterranean staple.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at [email protected].

References

1. Juber M. Health benefits of bergamot. WebMD. November 29, 2022. Accessed March 21, 2023.

2. Sun P et al. Mediators Inflamm. 2020 Oct 6;2020:8868107.

3. Cristiano MC et al. Biomedicines. 2022 Apr 30;10(5):1039.

4. Liang Y et al. Phytother Res. 2021 Nov;35(11):6131-47.

5. Quetglas-Llabrés MM et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2022 Apr 25;2022:8615242.

6. Shaaban M et al. Expert Opin Drug Deliv. 2021 Jan;18(1):139-50.

7. McNeely W, Goa KL. Drugs. 1998 Oct;56(4):667-90.

8. Han X, Beaumont C, Stevens N. Biochim Open. 2017 Apr 26;5:1-7.

9. Perna S et al. Food Sci Nutr. 2019 Jan 25;7(2):369-84.

10. Shaaban M et al. Drug Deliv Transl Res. 2019 Dec;9(6):1106-16.

11. Dubertret L et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 1990 Nov;7(2-4):251-9.

12. Nisticò S et al. J Biol Regul Homeost Agents. 2015 Jul-Sep;29(3):723-8.

13. Alexa VT et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 1;27(3):990.

A biopsy showed a markedly elastotic dermis consisting of a palisading granulomatous inflammatory infiltrate and numerous multinucleated histiocytes (Figure). These histopathologic findings along with the clinical presentation confirmed a diagnosis of annular elastolytic granuloma (AEG). Treatment consisting of 3 months of oral minocycline, 2 months of oral doxycycline, and clobetasol ointment all failed. At that point, oral hydroxychloroquine was recommended. Our patient was lost to follow-up by dermatology, then subsequently was placed on hydroxychloroquine by rheumatology to treat both the osteoarthritis and AEG. A follow-up appointment with dermatology was planned for 3 months to monitor hydroxychloroquine treatment and monitor treatment progress; however, she did not follow-up or seek further treatment.

Annular elastolytic granuloma clinically is similar to granuloma annulare (GA), with both presenting as annular plaques surrounded by an elevated border.¹ Although AEG clinically is distinct with hypopigmented atrophied plaque centers,² a biopsy is required to confirm the lack of elastic tissue in zones of atrophy and the presence of multinucleated histiocytes.^1,3 Lesions most commonly are seen clinically on sun-exposed areas in middle-aged White women; however, they rarely have been seen on frequently covered skin.⁴ Our case illustrates the striking photodistribution of AEG, especially on the posterior neck area. The clinical diagnoses of AEG, annular elastolytic giant cell granuloma, and GA in sun-exposed areas are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.^5,6

Pathologies considered in the diagnosis of AEG include but are not limited to tinea corporis, annular lichen planus, erythema annulare centrifugum, and necrobiosis lipoidica. Scaling typically is absent in AEG, while tinea corporis presents with hyphae within the stratum corneum of the plaques.⁷ Papules along the periphery of annular lesions are more typical of annular lichen planus than AEG, and they tend to have a more purple hue.⁸ Erythema annulare centrifugum has annular erythematous plaques similar to those found in AEG but differs with scaling on the inner margins of these plaques. Histopathology presenting with a lymphocytic infiltrate surrounding vasculature and no indication of elastolytic degradation would further indicate a diagnosis of erythema annulare centrifugum.⁹ Histopathology showing necrobiosis, lipid depositions, and vascular wall thickenings is indicative of necrobiosis lipoidica.¹⁰

Similar to GA,¹¹ the cause of AEG is idiopathic.² Annular elastolytic granuloma and GA differ in the fact that elastin degradation is characteristic of AEG compared to collagen degradation in GA. It is suspected that elastin degradation in AEG patients is caused by an immune response triggering phagocytosis of elastin by multinucleated histiocytes.² Actinic damage also is considered a possible cause of elastin fiber degradation in AEG.¹² Granuloma annulare can be ruled out and the diagnosis of AEG confirmed with the absence of elastin fibers and mucin on pathology.¹³

Although there is no established first-line treatment of AEG, successful treatment has been achieved with antimalarial drugs paired with topical steroids.¹⁴ Treatment recommendations for AEG include minocycline, chloroquine, hydroxychloroquine, tranilast, and oral retinoids, as well as oral and topical steroids. In clinical cases where AEG occurs in the setting of a chronic disease such as diabetes mellitus, vascular occlusion, arthritis, or hypertension, treatment of underlying disease has been shown to resolve AEG symptoms.¹⁴

Although light therapy is not common for AEG, UV light radiation has demonstrated success in treating AEG.^15,16 One study showed complete clearance of granulomatous papules after narrowband UVB treatment.¹⁵ Another study showed that 2 patients treated with psoralen plus UVA therapy reached complete clearance of AEG lasting at least 3 months after treatment.¹⁶

A biopsy showed a markedly elastotic dermis consisting of a palisading granulomatous inflammatory infiltrate and numerous multinucleated histiocytes (Figure). These histopathologic findings along with the clinical presentation confirmed a diagnosis of annular elastolytic granuloma (AEG). Treatment consisting of 3 months of oral minocycline, 2 months of oral doxycycline, and clobetasol ointment all failed. At that point, oral hydroxychloroquine was recommended. Our patient was lost to follow-up by dermatology, then subsequently was placed on hydroxychloroquine by rheumatology to treat both the osteoarthritis and AEG. A follow-up appointment with dermatology was planned for 3 months to monitor hydroxychloroquine treatment and monitor treatment progress; however, she did not follow-up or seek further treatment.

Annular elastolytic granuloma clinically is similar to granuloma annulare (GA), with both presenting as annular plaques surrounded by an elevated border.¹ Although AEG clinically is distinct with hypopigmented atrophied plaque centers,² a biopsy is required to confirm the lack of elastic tissue in zones of atrophy and the presence of multinucleated histiocytes.^1,3 Lesions most commonly are seen clinically on sun-exposed areas in middle-aged White women; however, they rarely have been seen on frequently covered skin.⁴ Our case illustrates the striking photodistribution of AEG, especially on the posterior neck area. The clinical diagnoses of AEG, annular elastolytic giant cell granuloma, and GA in sun-exposed areas are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.^5,6

Pathologies considered in the diagnosis of AEG include but are not limited to tinea corporis, annular lichen planus, erythema annulare centrifugum, and necrobiosis lipoidica. Scaling typically is absent in AEG, while tinea corporis presents with hyphae within the stratum corneum of the plaques.⁷ Papules along the periphery of annular lesions are more typical of annular lichen planus than AEG, and they tend to have a more purple hue.⁸ Erythema annulare centrifugum has annular erythematous plaques similar to those found in AEG but differs with scaling on the inner margins of these plaques. Histopathology presenting with a lymphocytic infiltrate surrounding vasculature and no indication of elastolytic degradation would further indicate a diagnosis of erythema annulare centrifugum.⁹ Histopathology showing necrobiosis, lipid depositions, and vascular wall thickenings is indicative of necrobiosis lipoidica.¹⁰

Similar to GA,¹¹ the cause of AEG is idiopathic.² Annular elastolytic granuloma and GA differ in the fact that elastin degradation is characteristic of AEG compared to collagen degradation in GA. It is suspected that elastin degradation in AEG patients is caused by an immune response triggering phagocytosis of elastin by multinucleated histiocytes.² Actinic damage also is considered a possible cause of elastin fiber degradation in AEG.¹² Granuloma annulare can be ruled out and the diagnosis of AEG confirmed with the absence of elastin fibers and mucin on pathology.¹³

Although there is no established first-line treatment of AEG, successful treatment has been achieved with antimalarial drugs paired with topical steroids.¹⁴ Treatment recommendations for AEG include minocycline, chloroquine, hydroxychloroquine, tranilast, and oral retinoids, as well as oral and topical steroids. In clinical cases where AEG occurs in the setting of a chronic disease such as diabetes mellitus, vascular occlusion, arthritis, or hypertension, treatment of underlying disease has been shown to resolve AEG symptoms.¹⁴

Although light therapy is not common for AEG, UV light radiation has demonstrated success in treating AEG.^15,16 One study showed complete clearance of granulomatous papules after narrowband UVB treatment.¹⁵ Another study showed that 2 patients treated with psoralen plus UVA therapy reached complete clearance of AEG lasting at least 3 months after treatment.¹⁶

A biopsy showed a markedly elastotic dermis consisting of a palisading granulomatous inflammatory infiltrate and numerous multinucleated histiocytes (Figure). These histopathologic findings along with the clinical presentation confirmed a diagnosis of annular elastolytic granuloma (AEG). Treatment consisting of 3 months of oral minocycline, 2 months of oral doxycycline, and clobetasol ointment all failed. At that point, oral hydroxychloroquine was recommended. Our patient was lost to follow-up by dermatology, then subsequently was placed on hydroxychloroquine by rheumatology to treat both the osteoarthritis and AEG. A follow-up appointment with dermatology was planned for 3 months to monitor hydroxychloroquine treatment and monitor treatment progress; however, she did not follow-up or seek further treatment.

Annular elastolytic granuloma clinically is similar to granuloma annulare (GA), with both presenting as annular plaques surrounded by an elevated border.¹ Although AEG clinically is distinct with hypopigmented atrophied plaque centers,² a biopsy is required to confirm the lack of elastic tissue in zones of atrophy and the presence of multinucleated histiocytes.^1,3 Lesions most commonly are seen clinically on sun-exposed areas in middle-aged White women; however, they rarely have been seen on frequently covered skin.⁴ Our case illustrates the striking photodistribution of AEG, especially on the posterior neck area. The clinical diagnoses of AEG, annular elastolytic giant cell granuloma, and GA in sun-exposed areas are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.^5,6

Pathologies considered in the diagnosis of AEG include but are not limited to tinea corporis, annular lichen planus, erythema annulare centrifugum, and necrobiosis lipoidica. Scaling typically is absent in AEG, while tinea corporis presents with hyphae within the stratum corneum of the plaques.⁷ Papules along the periphery of annular lesions are more typical of annular lichen planus than AEG, and they tend to have a more purple hue.⁸ Erythema annulare centrifugum has annular erythematous plaques similar to those found in AEG but differs with scaling on the inner margins of these plaques. Histopathology presenting with a lymphocytic infiltrate surrounding vasculature and no indication of elastolytic degradation would further indicate a diagnosis of erythema annulare centrifugum.⁹ Histopathology showing necrobiosis, lipid depositions, and vascular wall thickenings is indicative of necrobiosis lipoidica.¹⁰

Similar to GA,¹¹ the cause of AEG is idiopathic.² Annular elastolytic granuloma and GA differ in the fact that elastin degradation is characteristic of AEG compared to collagen degradation in GA. It is suspected that elastin degradation in AEG patients is caused by an immune response triggering phagocytosis of elastin by multinucleated histiocytes.² Actinic damage also is considered a possible cause of elastin fiber degradation in AEG.¹² Granuloma annulare can be ruled out and the diagnosis of AEG confirmed with the absence of elastin fibers and mucin on pathology.¹³

Although there is no established first-line treatment of AEG, successful treatment has been achieved with antimalarial drugs paired with topical steroids.¹⁴ Treatment recommendations for AEG include minocycline, chloroquine, hydroxychloroquine, tranilast, and oral retinoids, as well as oral and topical steroids. In clinical cases where AEG occurs in the setting of a chronic disease such as diabetes mellitus, vascular occlusion, arthritis, or hypertension, treatment of underlying disease has been shown to resolve AEG symptoms.¹⁴

Although light therapy is not common for AEG, UV light radiation has demonstrated success in treating AEG.^15,16 One study showed complete clearance of granulomatous papules after narrowband UVB treatment.¹⁵ Another study showed that 2 patients treated with psoralen plus UVA therapy reached complete clearance of AEG lasting at least 3 months after treatment.¹⁶

The Diagnosis: Orange Palpebral Spots

The clinical presentation of our patient was consistent with a diagnosis of orange palpebral spots (OPSs), an uncommon discoloration that most often appears in White patients in the fifth or sixth decades of life. Orange palpebral spots were first described in 2008 by Assouly et al¹ in 27 patients (23 females and 4 males). In 2015, Belliveau et al² expanded the designation to yellow-orange palpebral spots because they felt the term more fully expressed the color variations depicted in their patients; however, this term more frequently is used in ophthalmology.

Orange palpebral spots commonly appear as asymptomatic, yellow-orange, symmetric lesions with a predilection for the recessed areas of the superior eyelids but also can present on the canthi and inferior eyelids. The discolorations are more easily visible on fair skin and have been reported to measure from 10 to 15 mm in the long axis.³ Assouly et al1 described the orange spots as having indistinct margins, with borders similar to “sand on a sea shore.” Orange palpebral spots can be a persistent discoloration, and there are no reports of spontaneous regression. No known association with malignancy or systemic illness has been reported.

Case reports of OPSs describe histologic similarities between specimens, including increased adipose tissue and pigment-laden macrophages in the superficial dermis.² The pigmented deposits sometimes may be found in the basal keratinocytes of the epidermis and turn black with Fontana-Masson stain.¹ No inflammatory infiltrates, necrosis, or xanthomization are characteristically found. Stains for iron, mucin, and amyloid also have been negative.²

The cause of pigmentation in OPSs is unknown; however, lipofuscin deposits and high-situated adipocytes in the reticular dermis colored by carotenoids have been proposed as possible mechanisms.¹ No unifying cause for pigmentation in the serum (eg, cholesterol, triglycerides, thyroid-stimulating hormone, free retinol, vitamin E, carotenoids) was found in 11 of 27 patients with OPSs assessed by Assouly et al.¹ In one case, lipofuscin, a degradation product of lysosomes, was detected by microscopic autofluorescence in the superficial dermis. However, lipofuscin typically is a breakdown product associated with aging, and OPSs have been present in patients as young as 28 years.¹ Local trauma related to eye rubbing is another theory that has been proposed due to the finding of melanin in the superficial dermis. However, the absence of hemosiderin deposits as well as the extensive duration of the discolorations makes local trauma a less likely explanation for the etiology of OPSs.²

The clinical differential diagnosis for OPSs includes xanthelasma, jaundice, and carotenoderma. Xanthelasma presents as elevated yellow plaques usually found over the medial aspect of the eyes. In contrast, OPSs are nonelevated with both orange and yellow hues typically present. Histologic samples of xanthelasma are characterized by lipid-laden macrophages (foam cells) in the dermis in contrast to the adipose tissue seen in OPSs that has not been phagocytized.^1,2 The lack of scleral icterus made jaundice an unlikely diagnosis in our patient. Bilirubin elevations substantial enough to cause skin discoloration also would be expected to discolor the conjunctiva. In carotenoderma, carotenoids are deposited in the sweat and sebum of the stratum corneum with the orange pigmentation most prominent in regions of increased sweating such as the palms, soles, and nasolabial folds.⁴ Our patient’s lack of discoloration in places other than the periorbital region made carotenoderma less likely.

In the study by Assouly et al,¹ 10 of 11 patients who underwent laboratory analysis self-reported eating a diet rich in fruit and vegetables, though no standardized questionnaire was given. One patient was found to have an elevated vitamin E level, and in 5 cases there was an elevated level of β-cryptoxanthin. The significance of these elevations in such a small minority is unknown, and increased β-cryptoxanthin has been attributed to increased consumption of citrus fruits during the winter season. Our patient reported ingesting a daily oral supplement rich in carotenoids that constituted 60% of the daily value of vitamin E including mixed tocopherols as well as 90% of the daily value of vitamin A with many sources of carotenoids including beta-carotenes, lutein/zeaxanthin, lycopene, and astaxanthin. An invasive biopsy was not taken in this case, as OPSs largely are diagnosed clinically. Greater awareness and recognition of OPSs may help to identify common underlying causes for this unique diagnosis.

The Diagnosis: Orange Palpebral Spots

The clinical presentation of our patient was consistent with a diagnosis of orange palpebral spots (OPSs), an uncommon discoloration that most often appears in White patients in the fifth or sixth decades of life. Orange palpebral spots were first described in 2008 by Assouly et al¹ in 27 patients (23 females and 4 males). In 2015, Belliveau et al² expanded the designation to yellow-orange palpebral spots because they felt the term more fully expressed the color variations depicted in their patients; however, this term more frequently is used in ophthalmology.

Orange palpebral spots commonly appear as asymptomatic, yellow-orange, symmetric lesions with a predilection for the recessed areas of the superior eyelids but also can present on the canthi and inferior eyelids. The discolorations are more easily visible on fair skin and have been reported to measure from 10 to 15 mm in the long axis.³ Assouly et al1 described the orange spots as having indistinct margins, with borders similar to “sand on a sea shore.” Orange palpebral spots can be a persistent discoloration, and there are no reports of spontaneous regression. No known association with malignancy or systemic illness has been reported.

Case reports of OPSs describe histologic similarities between specimens, including increased adipose tissue and pigment-laden macrophages in the superficial dermis.² The pigmented deposits sometimes may be found in the basal keratinocytes of the epidermis and turn black with Fontana-Masson stain.¹ No inflammatory infiltrates, necrosis, or xanthomization are characteristically found. Stains for iron, mucin, and amyloid also have been negative.²

The cause of pigmentation in OPSs is unknown; however, lipofuscin deposits and high-situated adipocytes in the reticular dermis colored by carotenoids have been proposed as possible mechanisms.¹ No unifying cause for pigmentation in the serum (eg, cholesterol, triglycerides, thyroid-stimulating hormone, free retinol, vitamin E, carotenoids) was found in 11 of 27 patients with OPSs assessed by Assouly et al.¹ In one case, lipofuscin, a degradation product of lysosomes, was detected by microscopic autofluorescence in the superficial dermis. However, lipofuscin typically is a breakdown product associated with aging, and OPSs have been present in patients as young as 28 years.¹ Local trauma related to eye rubbing is another theory that has been proposed due to the finding of melanin in the superficial dermis. However, the absence of hemosiderin deposits as well as the extensive duration of the discolorations makes local trauma a less likely explanation for the etiology of OPSs.²

The clinical differential diagnosis for OPSs includes xanthelasma, jaundice, and carotenoderma. Xanthelasma presents as elevated yellow plaques usually found over the medial aspect of the eyes. In contrast, OPSs are nonelevated with both orange and yellow hues typically present. Histologic samples of xanthelasma are characterized by lipid-laden macrophages (foam cells) in the dermis in contrast to the adipose tissue seen in OPSs that has not been phagocytized.^1,2 The lack of scleral icterus made jaundice an unlikely diagnosis in our patient. Bilirubin elevations substantial enough to cause skin discoloration also would be expected to discolor the conjunctiva. In carotenoderma, carotenoids are deposited in the sweat and sebum of the stratum corneum with the orange pigmentation most prominent in regions of increased sweating such as the palms, soles, and nasolabial folds.⁴ Our patient’s lack of discoloration in places other than the periorbital region made carotenoderma less likely.

In the study by Assouly et al,¹ 10 of 11 patients who underwent laboratory analysis self-reported eating a diet rich in fruit and vegetables, though no standardized questionnaire was given. One patient was found to have an elevated vitamin E level, and in 5 cases there was an elevated level of β-cryptoxanthin. The significance of these elevations in such a small minority is unknown, and increased β-cryptoxanthin has been attributed to increased consumption of citrus fruits during the winter season. Our patient reported ingesting a daily oral supplement rich in carotenoids that constituted 60% of the daily value of vitamin E including mixed tocopherols as well as 90% of the daily value of vitamin A with many sources of carotenoids including beta-carotenes, lutein/zeaxanthin, lycopene, and astaxanthin. An invasive biopsy was not taken in this case, as OPSs largely are diagnosed clinically. Greater awareness and recognition of OPSs may help to identify common underlying causes for this unique diagnosis.

The Diagnosis: Orange Palpebral Spots

The clinical presentation of our patient was consistent with a diagnosis of orange palpebral spots (OPSs), an uncommon discoloration that most often appears in White patients in the fifth or sixth decades of life. Orange palpebral spots were first described in 2008 by Assouly et al¹ in 27 patients (23 females and 4 males). In 2015, Belliveau et al² expanded the designation to yellow-orange palpebral spots because they felt the term more fully expressed the color variations depicted in their patients; however, this term more frequently is used in ophthalmology.

Orange palpebral spots commonly appear as asymptomatic, yellow-orange, symmetric lesions with a predilection for the recessed areas of the superior eyelids but also can present on the canthi and inferior eyelids. The discolorations are more easily visible on fair skin and have been reported to measure from 10 to 15 mm in the long axis.³ Assouly et al1 described the orange spots as having indistinct margins, with borders similar to “sand on a sea shore.” Orange palpebral spots can be a persistent discoloration, and there are no reports of spontaneous regression. No known association with malignancy or systemic illness has been reported.

Case reports of OPSs describe histologic similarities between specimens, including increased adipose tissue and pigment-laden macrophages in the superficial dermis.² The pigmented deposits sometimes may be found in the basal keratinocytes of the epidermis and turn black with Fontana-Masson stain.¹ No inflammatory infiltrates, necrosis, or xanthomization are characteristically found. Stains for iron, mucin, and amyloid also have been negative.²

The cause of pigmentation in OPSs is unknown; however, lipofuscin deposits and high-situated adipocytes in the reticular dermis colored by carotenoids have been proposed as possible mechanisms.¹ No unifying cause for pigmentation in the serum (eg, cholesterol, triglycerides, thyroid-stimulating hormone, free retinol, vitamin E, carotenoids) was found in 11 of 27 patients with OPSs assessed by Assouly et al.¹ In one case, lipofuscin, a degradation product of lysosomes, was detected by microscopic autofluorescence in the superficial dermis. However, lipofuscin typically is a breakdown product associated with aging, and OPSs have been present in patients as young as 28 years.¹ Local trauma related to eye rubbing is another theory that has been proposed due to the finding of melanin in the superficial dermis. However, the absence of hemosiderin deposits as well as the extensive duration of the discolorations makes local trauma a less likely explanation for the etiology of OPSs.²

The clinical differential diagnosis for OPSs includes xanthelasma, jaundice, and carotenoderma. Xanthelasma presents as elevated yellow plaques usually found over the medial aspect of the eyes. In contrast, OPSs are nonelevated with both orange and yellow hues typically present. Histologic samples of xanthelasma are characterized by lipid-laden macrophages (foam cells) in the dermis in contrast to the adipose tissue seen in OPSs that has not been phagocytized.^1,2 The lack of scleral icterus made jaundice an unlikely diagnosis in our patient. Bilirubin elevations substantial enough to cause skin discoloration also would be expected to discolor the conjunctiva. In carotenoderma, carotenoids are deposited in the sweat and sebum of the stratum corneum with the orange pigmentation most prominent in regions of increased sweating such as the palms, soles, and nasolabial folds.⁴ Our patient’s lack of discoloration in places other than the periorbital region made carotenoderma less likely.

In the study by Assouly et al,¹ 10 of 11 patients who underwent laboratory analysis self-reported eating a diet rich in fruit and vegetables, though no standardized questionnaire was given. One patient was found to have an elevated vitamin E level, and in 5 cases there was an elevated level of β-cryptoxanthin. The significance of these elevations in such a small minority is unknown, and increased β-cryptoxanthin has been attributed to increased consumption of citrus fruits during the winter season. Our patient reported ingesting a daily oral supplement rich in carotenoids that constituted 60% of the daily value of vitamin E including mixed tocopherols as well as 90% of the daily value of vitamin A with many sources of carotenoids including beta-carotenes, lutein/zeaxanthin, lycopene, and astaxanthin. An invasive biopsy was not taken in this case, as OPSs largely are diagnosed clinically. Greater awareness and recognition of OPSs may help to identify common underlying causes for this unique diagnosis.

THE COMPARISON

A Vitiligo in a young Hispanic female, which spared the area under a ring. The patient has spotty return of pigment on the hand after narrowband UVB treatment.

B Vitiligo on the hand in a young Hispanic male.

Photographs courtesy of Richard P. Usatine, MD.

Vitiligo is a chronic autoimmune disorder characterized by areas of depigmented white patches on the skin due to the loss of melanocytes in the epidermis. Various theories on the pathogenesis of vitiligo exist; however, autoimmune destruction of melanocytes remains the leading hypothesis, followed by intrinsic defects in melanocytes.¹ Vitiligo is associated with various autoimmune diseases but is most frequently reported in conjunction with thyroid disorders.²

Epidemiology

Vitiligo affects approximately 1% of the US population and up to 8% worldwide.² There is no difference in prevalence between races or genders. Females typically acquire the disease earlier than males. Onset may occur at any age, although about half of patients will have vitiligo by 20 years of age.¹

Key clinical features in people with darker skin tones

Bright white patches are characteristic of vitiligo. The patches typically are asymptomatic and often affect the hands (Figures A and B), perioral skin, feet, and scalp, as well as areas more vulnerable to friction and trauma, such as the elbows and knees.² Trichrome lesions—consisting of varying zones of white (depigmented), lighter brown (hypopigmented), and normal skin—are most commonly seen in individuals with darker skin. Trichrome vitiligo is considered an actively progressing variant of vitiligo.²

An important distinction when diagnosing vitiligo is evaluating for segmental vs nonsegmental vitiligo. Although nonsegmental vitiligo—the more common subtype—is characterized by symmetric distribution and a less predictable course, segmental vitiligo manifests in a localized and unilateral distribution, often avoiding extension past the midline. Segmental vitiligo typically manifests at a younger age and follows a more rapidly stabilizing course.³

Worth noting

Given that stark contrasts between pigmented and depigmented lesions are more prominent in darker skin tones, vitiligo can be more socially stigmatizing and psychologically devastating in these patients.^4,5

Treatment of vitiligo includes narrowband UVB (NB-UVB) light phototherapy, excimer laser, topical corticosteroids, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus, and surgical melanocyte transplantation.¹ In July 2022, ruxolitinib cream 1.5% was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for nonsegmental vitiligo in patients 12 years and older.^6,7 It is the only FDA-approved therapy for vitiligo. It is thought to work by inhibiting the Janus kinase– signal transducers and activators of the transcription pathway.⁶ However, topical ruxolitinib is expensive, costing more than $2000 for 60 g.⁸

Health disparity highlight

A 2021 study reviewing the coverage policies of 15 commercial health care insurance companies, 50 BlueCross BlueShield plans, Medicaid, Medicare, and Veterans Affairs plans found inequities in the insurance coverage patterns for therapies used to treat vitiligo. There were 2 commonly cited reasons for denying coverage for therapies: vitiligo was considered cosmetic and therapies were not FDA approved.⁷ In comparison, NB-UVB light phototherapy for psoriasis is not considered cosmetic and has a much higher insurance coverage rate.^9,10 The out-of-pocket cost for a patient to purchase their own NB-UVB light phototherapy is more than $5000.11 Not all patients of color are economically disadvantaged, but in the United States, Black and Hispanic populations experience disproportionately higher rates of poverty (19% and 17%, respectively) compared to their White counterparts (8%).¹²

Final thoughts

US Food and Drug Administration approval of new drugs or new treatment indications comes after years of research discovery and large-scale trials. This pursuit of new discovery, however, is uneven. Vitiligo has historically been understudied and underfunded for research; this is common among several conditions adversely affecting people of color in the United States.¹³

THE COMPARISON

A Vitiligo in a young Hispanic female, which spared the area under a ring. The patient has spotty return of pigment on the hand after narrowband UVB treatment.

B Vitiligo on the hand in a young Hispanic male.

Photographs courtesy of Richard P. Usatine, MD.

Vitiligo is a chronic autoimmune disorder characterized by areas of depigmented white patches on the skin due to the loss of melanocytes in the epidermis. Various theories on the pathogenesis of vitiligo exist; however, autoimmune destruction of melanocytes remains the leading hypothesis, followed by intrinsic defects in melanocytes.¹ Vitiligo is associated with various autoimmune diseases but is most frequently reported in conjunction with thyroid disorders.²

Epidemiology

Vitiligo affects approximately 1% of the US population and up to 8% worldwide.² There is no difference in prevalence between races or genders. Females typically acquire the disease earlier than males. Onset may occur at any age, although about half of patients will have vitiligo by 20 years of age.¹

Key clinical features in people with darker skin tones

Bright white patches are characteristic of vitiligo. The patches typically are asymptomatic and often affect the hands (Figures A and B), perioral skin, feet, and scalp, as well as areas more vulnerable to friction and trauma, such as the elbows and knees.² Trichrome lesions—consisting of varying zones of white (depigmented), lighter brown (hypopigmented), and normal skin—are most commonly seen in individuals with darker skin. Trichrome vitiligo is considered an actively progressing variant of vitiligo.²

An important distinction when diagnosing vitiligo is evaluating for segmental vs nonsegmental vitiligo. Although nonsegmental vitiligo—the more common subtype—is characterized by symmetric distribution and a less predictable course, segmental vitiligo manifests in a localized and unilateral distribution, often avoiding extension past the midline. Segmental vitiligo typically manifests at a younger age and follows a more rapidly stabilizing course.³

Worth noting

Given that stark contrasts between pigmented and depigmented lesions are more prominent in darker skin tones, vitiligo can be more socially stigmatizing and psychologically devastating in these patients.^4,5

Treatment of vitiligo includes narrowband UVB (NB-UVB) light phototherapy, excimer laser, topical corticosteroids, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus, and surgical melanocyte transplantation.¹ In July 2022, ruxolitinib cream 1.5% was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for nonsegmental vitiligo in patients 12 years and older.^6,7 It is the only FDA-approved therapy for vitiligo. It is thought to work by inhibiting the Janus kinase– signal transducers and activators of the transcription pathway.⁶ However, topical ruxolitinib is expensive, costing more than $2000 for 60 g.⁸

Health disparity highlight

A 2021 study reviewing the coverage policies of 15 commercial health care insurance companies, 50 BlueCross BlueShield plans, Medicaid, Medicare, and Veterans Affairs plans found inequities in the insurance coverage patterns for therapies used to treat vitiligo. There were 2 commonly cited reasons for denying coverage for therapies: vitiligo was considered cosmetic and therapies were not FDA approved.⁷ In comparison, NB-UVB light phototherapy for psoriasis is not considered cosmetic and has a much higher insurance coverage rate.^9,10 The out-of-pocket cost for a patient to purchase their own NB-UVB light phototherapy is more than $5000.11 Not all patients of color are economically disadvantaged, but in the United States, Black and Hispanic populations experience disproportionately higher rates of poverty (19% and 17%, respectively) compared to their White counterparts (8%).¹²

Final thoughts

US Food and Drug Administration approval of new drugs or new treatment indications comes after years of research discovery and large-scale trials. This pursuit of new discovery, however, is uneven. Vitiligo has historically been understudied and underfunded for research; this is common among several conditions adversely affecting people of color in the United States.¹³

THE COMPARISON

A Vitiligo in a young Hispanic female, which spared the area under a ring. The patient has spotty return of pigment on the hand after narrowband UVB treatment.

B Vitiligo on the hand in a young Hispanic male.

Photographs courtesy of Richard P. Usatine, MD.

Vitiligo is a chronic autoimmune disorder characterized by areas of depigmented white patches on the skin due to the loss of melanocytes in the epidermis. Various theories on the pathogenesis of vitiligo exist; however, autoimmune destruction of melanocytes remains the leading hypothesis, followed by intrinsic defects in melanocytes.¹ Vitiligo is associated with various autoimmune diseases but is most frequently reported in conjunction with thyroid disorders.²

Epidemiology

Vitiligo affects approximately 1% of the US population and up to 8% worldwide.² There is no difference in prevalence between races or genders. Females typically acquire the disease earlier than males. Onset may occur at any age, although about half of patients will have vitiligo by 20 years of age.¹

Key clinical features in people with darker skin tones

Bright white patches are characteristic of vitiligo. The patches typically are asymptomatic and often affect the hands (Figures A and B), perioral skin, feet, and scalp, as well as areas more vulnerable to friction and trauma, such as the elbows and knees.² Trichrome lesions—consisting of varying zones of white (depigmented), lighter brown (hypopigmented), and normal skin—are most commonly seen in individuals with darker skin. Trichrome vitiligo is considered an actively progressing variant of vitiligo.²

An important distinction when diagnosing vitiligo is evaluating for segmental vs nonsegmental vitiligo. Although nonsegmental vitiligo—the more common subtype—is characterized by symmetric distribution and a less predictable course, segmental vitiligo manifests in a localized and unilateral distribution, often avoiding extension past the midline. Segmental vitiligo typically manifests at a younger age and follows a more rapidly stabilizing course.³

Worth noting

Given that stark contrasts between pigmented and depigmented lesions are more prominent in darker skin tones, vitiligo can be more socially stigmatizing and psychologically devastating in these patients.^4,5

Treatment of vitiligo includes narrowband UVB (NB-UVB) light phototherapy, excimer laser, topical corticosteroids, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus, and surgical melanocyte transplantation.¹ In July 2022, ruxolitinib cream 1.5% was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for nonsegmental vitiligo in patients 12 years and older.^6,7 It is the only FDA-approved therapy for vitiligo. It is thought to work by inhibiting the Janus kinase– signal transducers and activators of the transcription pathway.⁶ However, topical ruxolitinib is expensive, costing more than $2000 for 60 g.⁸

Health disparity highlight

A 2021 study reviewing the coverage policies of 15 commercial health care insurance companies, 50 BlueCross BlueShield plans, Medicaid, Medicare, and Veterans Affairs plans found inequities in the insurance coverage patterns for therapies used to treat vitiligo. There were 2 commonly cited reasons for denying coverage for therapies: vitiligo was considered cosmetic and therapies were not FDA approved.⁷ In comparison, NB-UVB light phototherapy for psoriasis is not considered cosmetic and has a much higher insurance coverage rate.^9,10 The out-of-pocket cost for a patient to purchase their own NB-UVB light phototherapy is more than $5000.11 Not all patients of color are economically disadvantaged, but in the United States, Black and Hispanic populations experience disproportionately higher rates of poverty (19% and 17%, respectively) compared to their White counterparts (8%).¹²

Final thoughts

US Food and Drug Administration approval of new drugs or new treatment indications comes after years of research discovery and large-scale trials. This pursuit of new discovery, however, is uneven. Vitiligo has historically been understudied and underfunded for research; this is common among several conditions adversely affecting people of color in the United States.¹³

The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.^1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.^4-6The identification of bioactive constituents in C. japonica is a relatively recent phenomenon and accounts for the emerging interest in its potential medical applications.^1,7

manuel m. v./flickr/Attribution CC BY 2.0

While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
 

Antioxidant activity

In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).⁸ Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.⁹

Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.⁴

Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.¹⁰

Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity

In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.⁶

Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.¹¹

Cosmeceutical potential

Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.¹ The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.¹² Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.⁹

Wrinkle reduction and moisturization

In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.¹³

More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.¹⁴

Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity

Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.²

Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.¹⁵
 

Conclusion

C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at [email protected].

References

1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.

2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.

3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.

4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.

5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.

6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.

7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.

8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.

9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.

10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.

11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.

12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.

13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.

14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.

15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.

The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.^1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.^4-6The identification of bioactive constituents in C. japonica is a relatively recent phenomenon and accounts for the emerging interest in its potential medical applications.^1,7

manuel m. v./flickr/Attribution CC BY 2.0

While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
 

Antioxidant activity

In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).⁸ Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.⁹

Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.⁴

Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.¹⁰

Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity

In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.⁶

Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.¹¹

Cosmeceutical potential

Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.¹ The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.¹² Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.⁹

Wrinkle reduction and moisturization

In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.¹³

More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.¹⁴

Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity

Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.²

Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.¹⁵
 

Conclusion

C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at [email protected].

References

1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.

2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.

3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.

4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.

5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.

6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.

7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.

8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.

9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.

10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.

11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.

12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.

13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.

14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.

15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.

The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.^1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.^4-6The identification of bioactive constituents in C. japonica is a relatively recent phenomenon and accounts for the emerging interest in its potential medical applications.^1,7

manuel m. v./flickr/Attribution CC BY 2.0

While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
 

Antioxidant activity

In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).⁸ Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.⁹

Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.⁴

Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.¹⁰

Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity

In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.⁶

Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.¹¹

Cosmeceutical potential

Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.¹ The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.¹² Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.⁹

Wrinkle reduction and moisturization

In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.¹³

More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.¹⁴

Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity

Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.²

Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.¹⁵
 

Conclusion

C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at [email protected].

References

1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.

2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.

3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.

4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.

5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.

6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.

7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.

8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.

9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.

10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.

11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.

12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.

13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.

14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.

15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.

ORLANDO – Research on pigmentary disorders has entered an overdue era of increased attention, resulting in more treatment options and the promise of improved quality of life for patients, a panel of experts said in a session on this topic at the ODAC Dermatology, Aesthetic & Surgical Conference.

The arrival of ruxolitinib cream, a topical JAK inhibitor – and oral JAK inhibitors, including ritlecitinib, a JAK3/TEC (tyrosine kinase expressed in hepatocellular carcinoma) inhibitor in clinical trials – is a welcome development for treatment of vitiligo, said John E. Harris, MD, PhD, chair of dermatology and director of the Vitiligo Clinic and Research Center at the University of Massachusetts, Worcester. Also in the pipeline is a kit for melanocyte-keratinocyte transplantation, which involves transplanting epidermal cells from one part of the body to another. This can be a challenging procedure but a kit would make it easier for a wider range of practitioners. (Topical ruxolitinib was approved by the Food and Drug Administration for treating nonsegmental vitiligo in July, 2022.)

“In the last 10 years, it’s just blown up and people care about vitiligo now,” Dr. Harris said, noting that vitiligo is more than a cosmetic issue, like gray hair or wrinkles. “Vitiligo is an autoimmune disease and now is being treated as such.”

Nada Elbuluk, MD, MSc, associate professor of dermatology at the University of Southern California, Los Angeles, said she’s pleased at the increasing availability of treatment options for hyperpigmentation, aside from hydroquinone, which is associated with an increased risk of adverse effects.

“We have more and more nonhydroquinone agents ... which is really nice because it expands our treatment armamentarium and what we can use to cycle people off of hydroquinone,” she said.

Some of these options include tranexamic acid and products containing azelaic acid or vitamin C.

Iltefat H. Hamzavi, MD, senior staff physician at Henry Ford Health System, Detroit, said that pigmentary disorders are receiving the recognition they deserve.

“I’m excited just about the intersection of society and science, the awareness that pigmentary abnormalities mean something, and they mean something across our society,” he said.

Dr. Elbuluk said that hyperpigmentation has “profound effects on quality of life” for patients.

“They are often more bothered by the darkening of the skin than the primary process that caused it,” she said. “It’s not uncommon that the chief complaint will say ‘dark spots’ and I walk in a room and it’s a patient who has acne. They don’t even say they’re here for acne. They just put ‘dark spots’ [down] because that’s what bothers them. That’s what lasts for so long after the acne is gone.”

The experts offered suggestions for managing these cases. Among her tips, Dr. Elbuluk said that for hyperpigmentation, physicians should not be afraid to biopsy the face – but suggested small, 2-millimeter specimens. In addition, “you can get common conditions in uncommon places,” she noted. “If you see something that looks like melasma off the face, it actually could be, so keep that in your differential.”

Dr. Hamzavi, who spoke about hypopigmentation disorders, said clinicians need to use an algorithm for diagnosis, considering features such as localized or diffuse, scale or no scale, as well as patient history, and other factors. For instance, a hypopigmented area that is localized and has a reddish central papule might lead a clinician to a diagnosis of hypopigmented sarcoidosis.

Using the algorithms, “you actually have to categorize these and then use your own experience. ... All of these elements can help you become a really good taxonomist – ultimately that’s what physicians are.”

He said it’s also important to know when it’s time to reconsider a diagnosis, such as when patients do not respond to traditional treatments. “If they don’t respond, re-categorize,” he said.

Speaking about vitiligo, Dr. Harris said it’s crucial to differentiate active vitiligo from inactive vitiligo and if it’s active, steps need to be taken to keep it from worsening..

Four signs of active vitiligo are a “confetti” pattern of clustered tiny macules of depigmentation, which will coalesce quickly into huge patches; tri-chrome vitiligo that includes a hypopigmented zone; linear areas of depigmentation (Koebner’s phenomenon) that look like scratches on the skin; and inflammatory vitiligo, with an erythematous ring around the edges of a depigmented area.

Dr. Harris disclosed ties with Incyte, Pfizer, Abbvie, Genzyme/Sanofi and other companies. Dr. Elbuluk disclosed ties with Avita, Incyte, Beiersdorf, and other companies. Dr. Hamzavi disclosed ties with AbbVie, Pfizer, Incyte, and other companies.

ORLANDO – Research on pigmentary disorders has entered an overdue era of increased attention, resulting in more treatment options and the promise of improved quality of life for patients, a panel of experts said in a session on this topic at the ODAC Dermatology, Aesthetic & Surgical Conference.

The arrival of ruxolitinib cream, a topical JAK inhibitor – and oral JAK inhibitors, including ritlecitinib, a JAK3/TEC (tyrosine kinase expressed in hepatocellular carcinoma) inhibitor in clinical trials – is a welcome development for treatment of vitiligo, said John E. Harris, MD, PhD, chair of dermatology and director of the Vitiligo Clinic and Research Center at the University of Massachusetts, Worcester. Also in the pipeline is a kit for melanocyte-keratinocyte transplantation, which involves transplanting epidermal cells from one part of the body to another. This can be a challenging procedure but a kit would make it easier for a wider range of practitioners. (Topical ruxolitinib was approved by the Food and Drug Administration for treating nonsegmental vitiligo in July, 2022.)

“In the last 10 years, it’s just blown up and people care about vitiligo now,” Dr. Harris said, noting that vitiligo is more than a cosmetic issue, like gray hair or wrinkles. “Vitiligo is an autoimmune disease and now is being treated as such.”

Nada Elbuluk, MD, MSc, associate professor of dermatology at the University of Southern California, Los Angeles, said she’s pleased at the increasing availability of treatment options for hyperpigmentation, aside from hydroquinone, which is associated with an increased risk of adverse effects.

“We have more and more nonhydroquinone agents ... which is really nice because it expands our treatment armamentarium and what we can use to cycle people off of hydroquinone,” she said.

Some of these options include tranexamic acid and products containing azelaic acid or vitamin C.

Iltefat H. Hamzavi, MD, senior staff physician at Henry Ford Health System, Detroit, said that pigmentary disorders are receiving the recognition they deserve.

“I’m excited just about the intersection of society and science, the awareness that pigmentary abnormalities mean something, and they mean something across our society,” he said.

Dr. Elbuluk said that hyperpigmentation has “profound effects on quality of life” for patients.

“They are often more bothered by the darkening of the skin than the primary process that caused it,” she said. “It’s not uncommon that the chief complaint will say ‘dark spots’ and I walk in a room and it’s a patient who has acne. They don’t even say they’re here for acne. They just put ‘dark spots’ [down] because that’s what bothers them. That’s what lasts for so long after the acne is gone.”

The experts offered suggestions for managing these cases. Among her tips, Dr. Elbuluk said that for hyperpigmentation, physicians should not be afraid to biopsy the face – but suggested small, 2-millimeter specimens. In addition, “you can get common conditions in uncommon places,” she noted. “If you see something that looks like melasma off the face, it actually could be, so keep that in your differential.”

Dr. Hamzavi, who spoke about hypopigmentation disorders, said clinicians need to use an algorithm for diagnosis, considering features such as localized or diffuse, scale or no scale, as well as patient history, and other factors. For instance, a hypopigmented area that is localized and has a reddish central papule might lead a clinician to a diagnosis of hypopigmented sarcoidosis.

Using the algorithms, “you actually have to categorize these and then use your own experience. ... All of these elements can help you become a really good taxonomist – ultimately that’s what physicians are.”

He said it’s also important to know when it’s time to reconsider a diagnosis, such as when patients do not respond to traditional treatments. “If they don’t respond, re-categorize,” he said.

Speaking about vitiligo, Dr. Harris said it’s crucial to differentiate active vitiligo from inactive vitiligo and if it’s active, steps need to be taken to keep it from worsening..

Four signs of active vitiligo are a “confetti” pattern of clustered tiny macules of depigmentation, which will coalesce quickly into huge patches; tri-chrome vitiligo that includes a hypopigmented zone; linear areas of depigmentation (Koebner’s phenomenon) that look like scratches on the skin; and inflammatory vitiligo, with an erythematous ring around the edges of a depigmented area.

Dr. Harris disclosed ties with Incyte, Pfizer, Abbvie, Genzyme/Sanofi and other companies. Dr. Elbuluk disclosed ties with Avita, Incyte, Beiersdorf, and other companies. Dr. Hamzavi disclosed ties with AbbVie, Pfizer, Incyte, and other companies.

ORLANDO – Research on pigmentary disorders has entered an overdue era of increased attention, resulting in more treatment options and the promise of improved quality of life for patients, a panel of experts said in a session on this topic at the ODAC Dermatology, Aesthetic & Surgical Conference.

The arrival of ruxolitinib cream, a topical JAK inhibitor – and oral JAK inhibitors, including ritlecitinib, a JAK3/TEC (tyrosine kinase expressed in hepatocellular carcinoma) inhibitor in clinical trials – is a welcome development for treatment of vitiligo, said John E. Harris, MD, PhD, chair of dermatology and director of the Vitiligo Clinic and Research Center at the University of Massachusetts, Worcester. Also in the pipeline is a kit for melanocyte-keratinocyte transplantation, which involves transplanting epidermal cells from one part of the body to another. This can be a challenging procedure but a kit would make it easier for a wider range of practitioners. (Topical ruxolitinib was approved by the Food and Drug Administration for treating nonsegmental vitiligo in July, 2022.)

“In the last 10 years, it’s just blown up and people care about vitiligo now,” Dr. Harris said, noting that vitiligo is more than a cosmetic issue, like gray hair or wrinkles. “Vitiligo is an autoimmune disease and now is being treated as such.”

Nada Elbuluk, MD, MSc, associate professor of dermatology at the University of Southern California, Los Angeles, said she’s pleased at the increasing availability of treatment options for hyperpigmentation, aside from hydroquinone, which is associated with an increased risk of adverse effects.

“We have more and more nonhydroquinone agents ... which is really nice because it expands our treatment armamentarium and what we can use to cycle people off of hydroquinone,” she said.

Some of these options include tranexamic acid and products containing azelaic acid or vitamin C.

Iltefat H. Hamzavi, MD, senior staff physician at Henry Ford Health System, Detroit, said that pigmentary disorders are receiving the recognition they deserve.

“I’m excited just about the intersection of society and science, the awareness that pigmentary abnormalities mean something, and they mean something across our society,” he said.

Dr. Elbuluk said that hyperpigmentation has “profound effects on quality of life” for patients.

“They are often more bothered by the darkening of the skin than the primary process that caused it,” she said. “It’s not uncommon that the chief complaint will say ‘dark spots’ and I walk in a room and it’s a patient who has acne. They don’t even say they’re here for acne. They just put ‘dark spots’ [down] because that’s what bothers them. That’s what lasts for so long after the acne is gone.”

The experts offered suggestions for managing these cases. Among her tips, Dr. Elbuluk said that for hyperpigmentation, physicians should not be afraid to biopsy the face – but suggested small, 2-millimeter specimens. In addition, “you can get common conditions in uncommon places,” she noted. “If you see something that looks like melasma off the face, it actually could be, so keep that in your differential.”

Dr. Hamzavi, who spoke about hypopigmentation disorders, said clinicians need to use an algorithm for diagnosis, considering features such as localized or diffuse, scale or no scale, as well as patient history, and other factors. For instance, a hypopigmented area that is localized and has a reddish central papule might lead a clinician to a diagnosis of hypopigmented sarcoidosis.

Using the algorithms, “you actually have to categorize these and then use your own experience. ... All of these elements can help you become a really good taxonomist – ultimately that’s what physicians are.”

He said it’s also important to know when it’s time to reconsider a diagnosis, such as when patients do not respond to traditional treatments. “If they don’t respond, re-categorize,” he said.

Speaking about vitiligo, Dr. Harris said it’s crucial to differentiate active vitiligo from inactive vitiligo and if it’s active, steps need to be taken to keep it from worsening..

Four signs of active vitiligo are a “confetti” pattern of clustered tiny macules of depigmentation, which will coalesce quickly into huge patches; tri-chrome vitiligo that includes a hypopigmented zone; linear areas of depigmentation (Koebner’s phenomenon) that look like scratches on the skin; and inflammatory vitiligo, with an erythematous ring around the edges of a depigmented area.

Dr. Harris disclosed ties with Incyte, Pfizer, Abbvie, Genzyme/Sanofi and other companies. Dr. Elbuluk disclosed ties with Avita, Incyte, Beiersdorf, and other companies. Dr. Hamzavi disclosed ties with AbbVie, Pfizer, Incyte, and other companies.